Breaking news last night: Raf Simons and Calvin Klein part ways after less than two years and eight months before the end of his contract. But the fashion world saw it coming after PVH (which also owns Tommy Hilfiger) chief Emanuel Chirico criticised last month the brand’s bumpy financial performance and high-fashion approach for which on the other side Simons won multiple awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America during his time at Calvin Klein.

With Raf Simons in 2014 when he was still at Dior.

Here lays exactly the problem. The Belgian designer, as well known for his cult menswear label as his well-regarded times at Jil Sander and Dior, was clearly committed to the cause of the iconic brand that consumers know for its denim, underwear and provocative marketing campaigns. He was given a multi-million-dollar salary and the title of chief creative officer. He oversaw all aspects of marketing and design for the American megabrand, a degree of control he did not have at Dior.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 ad campaign shot by Willy Vanderperre

Unfortunately, the brand, that was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC under Simons (sorry, but I have hated the name from the beginning), hoped to create a marketing effect through the high-end ready-to-wear collection for its lower-priced products. But this transformation didn’t take place. Personally speaking, I liked the looks Simons designed but I didn’t buy one single piece. Somehow I never felt the urge.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 show in NYC

For the American fashion industry, it is a big loss to see Simons go. But on the other hand, it is the only way to go. The brand will NOT even stage a runway show in February which is truly sad as his show definitely got a lot of international attention.

#MyCalvins – bestselling items the brand will focus on even more.

What will happen now with Calvin Klein? Needless to say, probably not another big designer name. but a strategy that will shift the focus of its marketing campaigns from high-fashion to more affordable items. Cobbler, stick to your trade!

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 runway collection

TO SHOP A LAST PIECE FROM RAF SIMONS FOR CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Calvin Klein and © Sandra Bauknecht

Here they are: the most important trends for the F/W 2017 season. Americana vibes, a powerful way to wear red, and vintage-inspired everything. Enjoy this comprehensive look at the pieces you’ll be wearing shortly. Deconstructed clothing is here to stay as well as florals and leisure suits. If you are looking at the new skirts, mid-length is the way to go.

I cannot wait for this beautiful season to arrive in stores.

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: POWER RED
Givenchy – Fendi – Max Mara

F/W 2017 TREND 2: FUTURISTIC SILVER
Saint Laurent – Chanel – Comme des Garçons

F/W 2017 TREND 3: NEW TRANSPARENCY
Calvin Klein – Miu Miu – Emilio Pucci

F/W 2017 TREND 4: WILD WEST
House of Holland – Balmain – Alexander Wang

F/W 2017 TREND 5: FOLKLORE
Gucci – Etro – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 6: EVENING VELVET
Jason Wu – Alberta Ferretti – Erdem

F/W 2017 TREND 7: RETRO FUR
Louis Vuitton – Michael Kors – Loewe

F/W 2017 TREND 8: ’70s PLAID
Tory Burch – Marni – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: FEATHERS
Prada – Mary Katrantzou – Elie Saab

F/W 2017 TREND 10: LEISURE SUITS
Chloé – Marc Jacobs – Ashish

F/W 2017 TREND 11: BROAD SHOULDERS
Dries Van Noten – Jacquemus – Isabel Marant

F/W 2017 TREND 12: RECYCLING
Dolce & Gabbana – Moschino – Junya Watanabe

F/W 2017 TREND 13: LACE OVERLAY
Stella McCartney – Burberry – Alessandra Rich

F/W 2017 TREND 14: WALLPAPER FLORALS
Mulberry – Emilia Wickstead – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 15: DENIM SUITS
Sacai – Christian Dior – Esteban Cortazar

Photos: Via Vogue.com

Long-running rumors in the industry have been finally confirmed today: RAF SIMONS has been formally appointed as Chief Creative Officer at Calvin Klein, filling the vacant position left by Francisco Costa in April. It is said that the American brand and Simons have been unable to make any announcement due to the year-long non-compete clause in Simons’s Christian Dior contract that came to an end last month.

Iconic minimalism:
Bara tulle-paneled stretch-crepe dress by Calvin Klein Collection

Mr. Simons will lead the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. As part of his role as Chief Creative Officer, Mr. Simons will oversee all aspects of design, global marketing and communications, and visual creative services. Mr. Simons’ first collections will debut for the F/W 2017 season.

The famous underwear:
Modern Cotton stretch cotton-blend soft-cup bra by Calvin Klein Underwear

Raf Simons with me

The appointment of Mr. Simons as Chief Creative Officer marks the implementation of Calvin Klein’s new global creative strategy, announced in April 2016, to unify all Calvin Klein brands under one creative vision. The strategy comes as part of a global evolution of the Calvin Klein brand, which began with the reacquisition of the Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear businesses in 2013. As Calvin Klein looks to grow the brand to $10 billion in global retail sales, this new leadership is intended to further strengthen the brand’s premium positioning worldwide and pave the way for future long-term global growth.

Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc.

“The arrival of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,” said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.”

Raf Simons & his right hand Pieter Mulier in Dior and I (Courtesy of Dior)

As part of the creative strategy for the apparel and accessories business, Calvin Klein also announced the hire of Pieter Mulier as Creative Director, reporting directly to Mr. Simons. Mr. Mulier will be responsible for executing Mr. Simons’ creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, as well as the bridge and better apparel lines and accessories. He will also manage all men’s and women’s design teams within the Calvin Klein brand, under Mr. Simons’ leadership.

Calvin Klein, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH Corp. [NYSE: PVH], is one of the leading fashion design and marketing studios in the world. It designs and markets women’s and men’s designer collection apparel and a range of other products that are manufactured and marketed through an extensive network of licensing agreements and other arrangements worldwide. Product lines under the various Calvin Klein brands include women’s dresses and suits, men’s dress furnishings and tailored clothing, men’s and women’s sportswear and bridge and collection apparel, golf apparel, jeanswear, underwear, fragrances, eyewear, women’s performance apparel, hosiery, socks, footwear, swimwear, jewelry, watches, outerwear, handbags, small leather goods, and home furnishings (including furniture).

With a heritage going back over 130 years, PVH Corp. has excelled at growing brands and businesses with rich American heritages, becoming one of the largest apparel companies in the world, having over 30,000 associates operating in over 40 countries with over $8 billion in 2015 revenues. Among the brands are Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Van Heusen, IZOD, ARROW, Speedo, Warner’s and more.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Calvin Klein and © Sandra Bauknecht

The Met Gala is an annual fundraising event for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art‘s Costume Institute in New York City and marks the grand opening of its annual fashion exhibit. Celebrating this year’s theme “China, Through The Looking Glass”, it seems to be one of the most challenging yet. See below who honored China’s heritage and its present culture on the red carpet best.

This year’s award to best dressed of the night goes to:

Rihanna wearing Chinese designer Guo Pei

The butt girls:

Jay Z and Beyoncé in Givenchy

Kanye West and Kim Kardashian West in Roberto Cavalli

Donatella Versace and Jennifer Lopez, both in Atelier Versace.

Best Chinese inspirations:

Zendaya Coleman in Fausto Puglisi

Karolina Kurkova in Tommy Hilfiger

I am always looking forward to seeing Sarah Jessica Parker‘s outfit because she has never let us down in pulling off the best looks. And let’s just say the headpiece combined with her H&M dress is divine.

Georgia May Jagger in Gucci and Alessandro Michele

Chloë Sevigny in J.W. Anderson

Very sophisticated: Tom Ford and Rita Ora in his design.

Alexa Chung in Erdem

George Clooney and Amal Clooney in Maison Margiela

Not so inspired by the Chinese theme… but great to watch:

Jeremy Scott kissing Kate Perry‘s hand who is wearing Moschino.

Also Madonna wore Moschino.

Stella McCartney framed by Cara Delevingne, Sofia Richie, and Zhu Zhu, all dressed in her designs.

Alexander Wang kissed by Lady Gaga in Balenciaga

Miley Cyrus and Zoë Kravitz dressed in Alexander Wang.

Kendall Jenner in Calvin Klein Collection

Robert Pattinson and FKA twigs in Christopher Kane (definitely not my favorite gown of the night).

Supermodel Joan Smalls arrived at the Met Gala in a black tulle and purple silk one-sleeved Roberto Cavalli gown with cutouts and sheer paneling. Her date was the newly appointed designer of the Italian fashion house Peter Dundas. Isn’t this gown to die for?!

Anna Wintour in Chanel

LoL, Sandra

Photos via: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com, Moschino, Vogue and Style.com

Whether you like floral, fruity, or the scent of the ocean itself, one spritz of these new fragrances will conjure up the sweet or refreshing smell of summer that is desperately needed during those cold and rainy days.

Here are my personal favorites:

CLASSIQUE Summer Fragrance by Jean Paul Gaultier

The design of this year’s summer limited edition of Classique is inspired by tattoos featuring carp motifs or koi tattoos.

ORIENTAL FLORAL

Top notes: Clementine, rose and orange blossom
Middle notes: Jasmine sambac, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and white iris
Base notes: Vanilla, musk and amber

Available now for CHF 85.00 (100ml)

ROBERTO CAVALLI ACQUA by Roberto Cavalli

The very elegant turquoise successor to the Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum from 2012 is inspired by exciting nights in the Mediterranean. The perfect scent for a party on a yacht.

FLORAL AQUATIC

Top notes: Lemon, watery notes and jasmine
Middle notes: Lily-of-the-valley
Base note: Musk

Available now for CHF 63.00 (30ml), CHF 94.50 (50ml) and CHF 123.00 (75ml)

CK ONE Summer 2013 Eau de Toilette by Calvin Klein

This limited edition for 2013 offers an interesting combination of citruses, fruits, aquatic and aromatic notes. A wonderful refreshing scent for a hot summer day, like a splash from a waterfall.

AROMATIC ACQUATIC

Top notes: Citruses and watery notes
Middle notes: Water lily, caraway seeds, watermelon and cucumber
Base notes: Moss, woody notes and musk

Available now for CHF 55.00 (100ml)

J’ADORE Voile de Parfum by Christian Dior

My absolute favourite for summer. Like a gentle veil it leaves a sensual trail on the skin, very elegant and light.

FLORAL

Top note: Damask rose
Middle note: Tuscan iris
Base note: White musk

Available now for CHF 115.00 (50ml) and CHF 165.00 (100ml)

LoL, Sandra

Photo: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: Courtesy of the Brands

During the last weeks, I have tried many many new scents for men. Here is my list of the ones we would like to smell on our men this summer. The ones I can truly recommend.

DIOR HOMME COLOGNE
Citrus Aromatic

This new version is absolutely wonderful, my personal favourite. Modern, fresh and warm in one, another hit created by François Demachy.

Top notes: Calabrian bergamot
Middle notes: Grapefruit
Base notes: Musk

Available now for CHF 104.50 (75ml) and CHF 143.00 (125ml).

LE BEAU MALE by Jean Paul Gaultier
Aromatic Fougère

Eighteen years ago, “Le Male” irreversibly shook up the world of perfume by introducing an unprecedented masculine archetype: the sensual sailor with a soft heart. Today, this object of desire is the leader of a new olfactory generation. The freshness in the new fragrance is as powerful as it is addictive.

Top notes: Mint and mugwort
Middle notes: Lavender, sage and orange blossom
Base notes: Musk

Available now for CHF 81.00 (75ml) and CHF 112.00 (125ml).

VERSACE EROS
Aromatic Fougère

Love, passion, beauty and desire: these are the key concepts of this new men’s fragrance. Named after the Greek god of love and son of goddess Aphrodite – Eros, it celebrates the perfection of the male body. For the passionate man, who is the master of himself! For all heroes among you…

Top notes: Mint oil, lemon and green apple
Middle notes: Ambroxan, tonka bean and geranium flower
Base notes: Vanilla, vetiver, oakmoss and cedarwood

Available now for CHF 90.00 (50ml) and CHF 121.00 (100ml).

BVLGARI MAN EXTREME
Woody Aromatic

Bulgari unveils a new expression of masculine charisma, a fragrance that melds an intense Mediterranean freshness and a modern woodiness, evoking Rome’s vitality and strength.

Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, pink grapefruit and cactus juice
Middle notes: Cardamom, amber and freesia
Base notes: Woody notes, vetiver and benzoin

Available now for CHF 112 (100ml) and CHF 84 (60ml).

ACQUA ESSENZIALE by Salvatore Ferragamo
Aromatic Fougère

The nose behind this fragrance is Alberto Morillas. The famous perfumer was inspired by water as the most essential natural element. A signature scent that celebrates a man’s real essence. Perfect for summer!

Top notes: Grapefruit, mint, mandarin and lemon tree leaf
Middle notes: Geranium, cascalone, rosemary and lavender
Base notes: Patchouli, musk, cistus and vetiver

Available now for CHF 59.00 (30ml), CHF 79.00 (50ml) and CHF 109.00 (100ml).

ETERNITY MEN SUMMER by Calvin Klein
Woody Acquatic Fougère

This beautiful limited edition for 2013 reminds you of the romantic sound of the waves and the summery smell of the sea.

Top notes: Tarragon, bergamot and orange blossom
Middle notes: Seaweed, cedar oil, violet, mimosa and lavender oil
Base notes: Patchouli, amber, driftwood, musk and cashmere

Available now for CHF 101.00 (100ml).

GUCCI GUILTY BLACK pour Homme
Aromatic Fougère

This scent is one vision of the modern man: Seductive, courageous and witty, for all of you who desire a new sensual experience.

Top notes: Lavender and coriander
Middle notes: Green notes, neroli and orange blossom
Base notes: Cedar and patchouli

Available now for CHF 78.00 (30ml), CHF 100.00 (50ml) and CHF 126.00 (90ml).

1 MILLION INTENSE by Paco Rabanne
Woody Spicy

The original 1 Million fragrance was launched in 2008. This year, a new intensified, deeper version is hitting the market, an embodiment of extravagance, a wonderful spicy oriental composition.

Top notes: Cardamom, blood mandarin, saffron and black pepper
Middle notes: Cinnamon, neroli and rose
Base notes: Orris root, sandalwood, leather and patchouli

Available now for CHF 87.00 (50ml) and CHF 121.00 (100ml).

LoL, Sandra

Photo: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: Courtesy of the brands

It is August and the majority of fall campaigns can be seen now in the new fashion magazines, ads just keep coming out of the woodwork and so I wanted to give you a brief summary of the most important ones and by whom they were shot.
It is funny to see that this world in particular is pretty small and some photographers are ahead of the game.

My personal favourite is Bottega Veneta`s strong expressive F/W 2010 campaign. Shot by the godfather of energetic graphic photography himself: Robert Longo. The artist has became famous in the late 1970s and early 1980s with his series „Men in the Cities“ that depicts men and women in business attire contorted in extreme positions.

The winner this season seems to be renowned Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. The dream team that has defined the look of the past decade, shot the most campaigns. Enjoy my preview:

The American photographer and long-time protégé of both Franca Sozzani and Anna Wintour, editors-in-chief of Italian and American Vogue is also a big shot in the world of fashion photography. No wonder, Steven Meisel shot all those gorgeous campaigns.

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinood Matadin, a fashion photographer duo that is well known for their independent art work. Most of their photographs are both critical and slightly disturbing as you can see in the campaigns they shot for F/W 2010.

Italian-born Mario Sorrenti is a photographer and director best known for his spreads of nude models in the pages of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

Peruvian fashion photographer Mario Testino has shot many fashion stories and celebrities. His work has been exhibited in numerous galleries and museums.

Hermès has come up with another really beautiful advertising campaign shot by Paolo Roversi. I love his romantic, vintage looking photos that always seem to tell a story. To me, a perfect choice for the French house!

Bruce Weber is a well-known face in the world of advertising photography. His career really took of in the late 1980s and early 1990s with his famous advertising images for Calvin Klein.

Juergen Teller‘s work is extraordinary and with a distinctive design. His raw style makes him one of the most influential fashion photographers working today.

Multi-talent Karl Lagerfeld likes to keep everything in his own hands. So no wonder that he shoots the advertising campaigns for his own collections for Chanel and Fendi.

Steven Klein is an American photographer that shot many high-profile advertising campaigns for various clients. This season he was hired by Dolce & Gabbana to capture a close knit Italian family with Madonna as the matriarchal figure through his lens.
Great job!

LoL, Sandra

Our time machine is moving further. After the glam references of the past decades, some designers also saw the impact of architectural purity during the 90s and there is something intrinsically cool about today’s new minimalism.

The creations are great investment pieces, very versatile, less extreme and more functional. You could go through decades wearing the same thing and looking great.

If you want to add some 90’s minimalist sophistication to your wardrobe, think more about tailored silhouettes in superb quality. Draping, asymmetry and unusual fabrics give maximum choice for minimal style.

The colour palette is mostly muted with a lot of white, camel, grey and black. But if you love the bright hues, it does not mean that you cannot buy into minimalism. There were lots of beautiful choices on the runways.

To conclude our trip through time, those pure outfits have more longevity than any other seasonal looks. But wether or not, trends never really go out of fashion, it just takes a while for them to resurface and each decade has the same key factor, the need to be fashionable.

With this in mind, enjoy the comeback of 90’s great fashion moments!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands