Visiting Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams

Already in April this year, I had the the pleasure to visit one of the most beautiful exhibitions ever, a must for every fashion lover: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This retrospective celebrates the founding couturier’s avant-garde spirit and the international destiny of his House, shepherded, after his passing in 1957, by the talent of the Creative Directors who succeeded him.

You still have one week left to indulge in the universe of the French Maison as the exhibition has been extended to September 1st after it sold out within 19 days of its opening.

ABOUT CHRISTIAN DIOR

Christian Dior was born into a wealthy Normandie family in the French seaside town of Granville on January 21, 1905. As a child he shared his mother’s love of gardens. is early passions included architecture and designing fancy dress costumes for his friends. Sent by his parents to study political science in Paris, Dior gravitated towards a bohemian group of friends, including composer Henri Sauguet and artist Christian Bérard.

In 1928, he opened and art gallery, but the business foundered when the Dior family fortune collapsed following the 1929 financial crisis. Forced to find a new way to make a living, Dior took up fashion drawing, eventually working with top couturiers Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong.

In 1946, Dior founded his own couture house with the backing of textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the «New Look» by the press, the collection had an instant and unparalleled influence on fashion around the world. The House of Dior grew rapidly. By 1955 it accounted for over 50% of overseas exports of French haute couture.

In the prime of his career, Christian Dior died suddenly on 24 October 1957. His legacy has continued under the creative directors who have succeeded him at the head of the House of Dior: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri.

THE EXHIBITION

Based on the highly successful Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve (on view from 5 July 2017 to 7 January 2018), the show charts seven decades of the continuing importance, influence and creativity of the House of Dior in the fashion world, with an additional section showcasing the story of Dior in Britain.

The famous «Bar Suit» and hat, Haute Couture S/S 1947

Drawn from the extensive Dior Archives, the exhibition presents over 500 objects, with over 200 rare Haute Couture garments shown alongside accessories, fashion photography, film, vintage perfume, original make-up, illustrations, magazines, and Christian Dior’s personal possessions. Unfolding across eleven themes, this unique event invites visitors to immerse themselves inside Christian Dior’s world, tracing the highlights of his life, from his childhood to the creation of his couture house at the end of 1946. A voyage through time that continues with the starring role played by such timeless icons as the eternal «Bar Suit», and legendary looks designed by the visionary tastemaker the couturier was.

Celebrating the Dior art of color, accessories, hats, bags, illustrations, miniature dresses, lipsticks and emblematic fragrances together form a spectrum of colors dear to Christian Dior and, in turn, enrich this exciting encounter with the House. The culmination of this immersive exploration, an exhibit called «Le Salon» showcases the splendor of society soirées, illustrated by spectacular dresses that testify to the virtuosity and savoir-faire of excellence of the Dior haute couture ateliers.

THE NEW LOOK

Christian Dior unveiled his first haute couture collection on 12 February 1947, amid excited anticipation within fashion circles. Offering a radical alternative to the boxy, masculine style of women’s fashion after the Second World War, Dior’s designs caused a sensation. Carmel Snow, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, declared: « It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian, your dresses have such a new look!» The Dior Line showcases ten defining looks made between 1947 and 1957, Christian Dior’s own tenure at the House.

DIOR IN BRITAIN

Exactly to this day, 72 years before, on 26 August 1947, a small group of people stood together in London’s Claridge’s Hotel, hovering around a smartly dressed middle-aged man holding a trilby hat. The celebrated couturier Christian Dior, who just six months earlier had revolutionized fashion with its first «New Look» collection, was in the process of being ambushed by the press. One journalist grilled him as to how he was able to persuade a world short of fabric to embrace his audacious new fashions, to which Dior replied: «I am giving the women the dresses they want. They’re fed up with war restrictions… My full skirts are a release

«I adore the English, dressed not only in tweeds which suit them so well, but also in those flowing dresses, in subtle colours, which they have worn inimitably since the days of GainsboroughChristian Dior, 1957.

Christian Dior designed this couture dress in 1951 specially for the 2st birthday of Princess Margaret.

In his autobiography, Dior affirmed his love for all things English. He was particularly enamoured with the English aristocracy and he admired the grandeur of the great houses and gardens of Britain, as well as British-designed ocean liners, including the Queen Mary, and Savile Row suits.

HISTORICISM

Christian Dior often cited historic periods in his designs – the sinus lines of Belle Époque dresses from the late 1800s and early 1900s: the tightly waisted mid-nineteenth-century styles worn by the French Empress Eugénie, Napoléon III’s wife. The sumptuous silks and dramatic silhouettes of the eighteenth century held a particular fascination. Dior’s premises at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris had a neo-classical façade, medaillon-backed chairs, and white and grey panelling like that of Petit Trianon at Versailles, a colour Dior is said to have revived.

«I thank heaven I lived in Paris in the last years of the Belle EpoqueChristian Dior, 1957

In front of one of my favorite Dior dresses, Look 24 from the F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection by John Galliano.

TRAVEL

Travels explore how travel and different countries and cultures have consistently inspired the various designers at the House of Dior. This section focuses on five of the countries that provided a source of reference for Christian Dior and his successors at the House of Dior: Mexico, India, Egypt, Japan and China.

THE GARDEN

Flowers are emblematic of the Maison and have inspired silhouettes, embroidery and prints, but also the launch of Miss Dior in 1947, the first fragrance created alongside the very first show.
From horticulture to global travel and historicism, the show reveals the sources of inspiration that defined the House of Dior’s aesthetic.

Look 47 from the F/W 2012 Haute Couture collection by Raf Simons for Dior. It was worn by actress Natalie Portman, the face of Miss Dior perfume.

DESIGNERS FOR DIOR

Designers for Dior spotlights the work of the subsequent six key artistic directors since Christian Dior’s death in 1957.

Since 1957 the House of Dior has been led by:
Yves Saint Laurent 1958-60
Marc Bohan 1960-89
Gianfranco Ferré 1989-96
John Galliano 1996-2011 
Raf Simons 
2012-15
Maria Grazia Chiuri 2016 to present
Each creative director has brought a new perspective.

THE ATELIERS

The Ateliers showcases toiles from the Dior Ateliers in a stunning «cabinet of curiosity» style.

«Everything created by human hands expresses something – above all the personality of the creator. The same thing is true with a dress. But since so many people are working on it, the real job is to get all the hands that cut, sew, try on and embroider to express all I have feltChristian Dior, 1954

DIORAMA

Diorama examines the breadth of the House of Dior, from accessories including costume jewellery, hats, shoes and bags, to illustrations, miniature dresses and archive lipstick and perfume, bottles, collected in a kaleidoscopic display. This section spotlights the key creative partners of the House from the past 70 years, including Roger Vivier Stephen Jones, René Gruau, Serge Lutens and Swarovski, Christian Dior’s first choice for crystals to embellish his creations.

How cool! My own outfit was part of the exhibition.

THE BALLROOM

Drawing on his love of costume, it was in his evening dresses and ball gowns that Dior could indulge his imagination and showcase the diverse skills of the haute couture ateliers. Until today, a Dior gown, synonymous with allure and opulence, demonstrates the formidable talents and techniques of Parisian haute couture. It is no wonder that such striking creations have graced numerous red carpets as the choice of film stars and prominent personalities over the past seven decades.

I hope that you have enjoyed following me on my tour through this beautiful exhibition.

LoL, Sandra

Photos taken of the exhibition: © Sandra Bauknecht

Dior Rose Céleste

«Women, with their intuitive instinct, understood that I dreamed not only of making them more beautiful, but happier too.» – Christian Dior

Victoire de Castellane continues the story of DIOR‘s «Rose des vents» collection with a new celestial lucky charm, so-called «Rose Céleste». A twist of grains encircles the medallion, which turns to switch between the moon and sun sides.

On the front, a mother-of-pearl moon and three small white gold stars have been embedded with infinite care in an onyx disc in order to reveal all their brilliance.

On the reverse, a majestic yellow gold sun, with nine rays of different sizes, stands out from the mother-of-pearl background. Its almond-shaped eye and its smile were defined with a subtle level of refinement. The ornamental stones have been polished to give them a rounded surface, while the gold that encircles them has been shaped to form a rice-grain effect.

Taking its inspiration from Christian Dior‘s highly superstitious nature and his passion for astrology, the new must-have jewellery pieces are available as a medallion, bracelet or necklace, these talismans offer a new invitation to travel through the Dior’s rich heritage, by day and by night.

Bracelet DIOR Rose Céleste €1900
Necklace DIOR Rose Céleste €2000
Médaillon DIOR Rose Céleste €4500

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dior

Astro Dior

Yesterday, I spotted the new jewelry collection by DIOR Joaillerie at the Zurich boutique and fell immediately in love. Named ASTRO DIOR, it is a celebration of the superstitious character of Christian Dior and consists of 12 necklaces in gold and mother of pearl, allowing you to now wear your astrological sign.

Christian Dior at a feast of St. Catherine, circa 1950

Christian Dior loved astrology. Therefore he visited Madame Delahaye, his clairvoyant, before opening his eponymous Maison in 1946. After the consultation, she confirmed to him that the launch of his brand was written in the stars.

Over the years, many references to the designer’s beliefs in astrology and mysticism appeared as he created certain pieces with a nickname deriving from those fields: Bonne étoile (lucky star), Horoscope, Tour de cartes (card trick) and Cartomancienne (cartomancer).

Astrological references on the DIOR runways

The House’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri continued this legacy by embroidering zodiac signs and celestial motifs on cashmere sweaters, bags and more.

Making of ASTRO DIOR 

Victoire de Castellane also celebrates this fascination with astrology now with the launch of these beautiful 12 necklaces that are available in stores now.

LoL, Sandra

ASTRO DIOR – Aries

ASTRO DIOR – Taurus

ASTRO DIOR – Gemini

ASTRO DIOR – Cancer

ASTRO DIOR – Leo

ASTRO DIOR – Viergo

ASTRO DIOR – Libra

ASTRO DIOR – Scorpio

ASTRO DIOR – Sagittarius

ASTRO DIOR – Capricorn

ASTRO DIOR – Aquarius

ASTRO DIOR – Pisces

 Photos: Courtesy of DIOR and © Sandra Bauknecht

Hubert de Givenchy Dead at 91

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

Most Important F/W 2017 Accessories Trends

This F/W 2017 season is all about having fun and exploring new territories! With fashion in a maximalist mood, accessories have kept their center stage. On the runways, fishnets are back, boots sparkle, and this winter you definitely need three bags at once. Red is the color to buy and don’t store your overknee boots, they are hipper than ever.

The forecast: Get ready for your another sumptuous season!

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: FISHNET STOCKINGS
Lanvin – Jason Wu – Cinq à Sept

F/W 2017 TREND 2: GLITTER BOOTS
Oscar de la Renta – Chanel – Saint Laurent

F/W 2017 TREND 3: FURRY HATS
Marni – Prada – Miu Miu

F/W 2017 TREND 4: CRAZY HATS
Emilio Pucci – Moschino – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 5: STUFFED ANIMALS
Dolce & Gabbana – Loewe – Jeremy Scott

F/W 2017 TREND 6: WIDE BELTS
Tod’s – Bottega Veneta – Michael Kors

F/W 2017 TREND 7: LOGOMANIA
Proenza Schouler – Christian Dior – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 8: COMBAT BOOTS
Altuzarra – Rodarte – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: HEEL ART
Mary Katrantzou – Salvatore Ferragamo – Dries Van Noten

F/W 2017 TREND 10: TRIPLE THREAT
Coach – Gucci – Fendi

F/W 2017 TREND 11: OVERKNEES
Balmain – Nina Ricci – Ellery

F/W 2017 TREND 12: WHITE OUT
Victoria Beckham – Marc Jacobs – Narciso Rodriguez

F/W 2017 TREND 13: FOCUS ON THE JEWELRY
Isabel Marant – Alexander Wang – Céline

Photos: Via Vogue.com

The Top 15 Runway Trends for F/W 2017

Here they are: the most important trends for the F/W 2017 season. Americana vibes, a powerful way to wear red, and vintage-inspired everything. Enjoy this comprehensive look at the pieces you’ll be wearing shortly. Deconstructed clothing is here to stay as well as florals and leisure suits. If you are looking at the new skirts, mid-length is the way to go.

I cannot wait for this beautiful season to arrive in stores.

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: POWER RED
Givenchy – Fendi – Max Mara

F/W 2017 TREND 2: FUTURISTIC SILVER
Saint Laurent – Chanel – Comme des Garçons

F/W 2017 TREND 3: NEW TRANSPARENCY
Calvin Klein – Miu Miu – Emilio Pucci

F/W 2017 TREND 4: WILD WEST
House of Holland – Balmain – Alexander Wang

F/W 2017 TREND 5: FOLKLORE
Gucci – Etro – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 6: EVENING VELVET
Jason Wu – Alberta Ferretti – Erdem

F/W 2017 TREND 7: RETRO FUR
Louis Vuitton – Michael Kors – Loewe

F/W 2017 TREND 8: ’70s PLAID
Tory Burch – Marni – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: FEATHERS
Prada – Mary Katrantzou – Elie Saab

F/W 2017 TREND 10: LEISURE SUITS
Chloé – Marc Jacobs – Ashish

F/W 2017 TREND 11: BROAD SHOULDERS
Dries Van Noten – Jacquemus – Isabel Marant

F/W 2017 TREND 12: RECYCLING
Dolce & Gabbana – Moschino – Junya Watanabe

F/W 2017 TREND 13: LACE OVERLAY
Stella McCartney – Burberry – Alessandra Rich

F/W 2017 TREND 14: WALLPAPER FLORALS
Mulberry – Emilia Wickstead – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 15: DENIM SUITS
Sacai – Christian Dior – Esteban Cortazar

Photos: Via Vogue.com

I Adore J’Adior

Last March upon writing today’s post, I knew already that the DiorJ’ADIORslingbacks will be undoubtedly the most sought after shoes of the season. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who is the first female designer to head up the house of Dior in it’s 70 year history, rocked her runway debut with slogan tees, tutu skirts and a shoe that has reached a cult status in an instant.

But ladies, it is not only the clothes and accessories, that make a woman beautiful. We also need to work on our radiance when nobody is watching us. Therefore I would like to recommend to you today Dior Prestige La Lotion Essence de Rose.

Combining the power of a fresh essence with the comfort of a milky lotion, this first step of your daily beauty routine in the morning (and at night) is drenched in hydrating agents to deeply moisturize the skin and to wrap it in a protective veil all day long. It doubles the age-defying effectiveness of your other products to reveal a fresher, more luminous complexion.

How It Works:
Through a unique process, Dior Science releases the vital essence concentrated at the heart of Rose de Granville cells and creates the patented Micro-Reviving Rose Water™. La Lotion Essence de Rose reinvigorates circulation and flow between skin cells. Full of life, the skin is infused with a natural rosy radiance again.

Personal experience:
My skin feels after only 4 weeks of use perfectly invigorated. It is softer, more supple and revitalized. Even after not sleeping a lot, my complexion is less dull and wrinkles seem diminish.

TO SHOP DIOR PRESTIGE LA LOTION ESSENCE DE ROSE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dior and © Sandra Bauknecht

My Look: XOX

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Today’s outfit post comes with hugs and kisses from Gstaad. I wore this gown to the ASW Foundation Gala Dinner last weekend at the Gstaad Palace. It is such a great piece, comfortable and great for dancing, something that can be difficult with a long dress in general.

My look: Ruffled lace-paneled metallic silk-blend gown and Sarabande embellished satin-trimmed lace bra top, both by Alexander McQueen, cutout leather platform pumps by Saint Laurent, vintage baguette bag by Christian Dior and earrings by Prada.

LoL, Sandra

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 Photos: © David Biedert

Raf Simons Heads to Calvin Klein

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Long-running rumors in the industry have been finally confirmed today: RAF SIMONS has been formally appointed as Chief Creative Officer at Calvin Klein, filling the vacant position left by Francisco Costa in April. It is said that the American brand and Simons have been unable to make any announcement due to the year-long non-compete clause in Simons’s Christian Dior contract that came to an end last month.

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Iconic minimalism:
Bara tulle-paneled stretch-crepe dress by Calvin Klein Collection
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Mr. Simons will lead the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. As part of his role as Chief Creative Officer, Mr. Simons will oversee all aspects of design, global marketing and communications, and visual creative services. Mr. Simons’ first collections will debut for the F/W 2017 season.

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The famous underwear:
Modern Cotton stretch cotton-blend soft-cup bra 
by Calvin Klein Underwear

Sandra_Bauknecht_Raf_SimonsRaf Simons with me
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The appointment of Mr. Simons as Chief Creative Officer marks the implementation of Calvin Klein’s new global creative strategy, announced in April 2016, to unify all Calvin Klein brands under one creative vision. The strategy comes as part of a global evolution of the Calvin Klein brand, which began with the reacquisition of the Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear businesses in 2013. As Calvin Klein looks to grow the brand to $10 billion in global retail sales, this new leadership is intended to further strengthen the brand’s premium positioning worldwide and pave the way for future long-term global growth.

steve-shiffmanSteve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc.

The arrival of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,” said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.

340172Raf Simons & his right hand Pieter Mulier in Dior and I (Courtesy of Dior)

As part of the creative strategy for the apparel and accessories business, Calvin Klein also announced the hire of Pieter Mulier as Creative Director, reporting directly to Mr. Simons. Mr. Mulier will be responsible for executing Mr. Simons’ creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, as well as the bridge and better apparel lines and accessories. He will also manage all men’s and women’s design teams within the Calvin Klein brand, under Mr. Simons’ leadership.

Sandra-Bauknecht-MyCalvins

Calvin Klein, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH Corp. [NYSE: PVH], is one of the leading fashion design and marketing studios in the world. It designs and markets women’s and men’s designer collection apparel and a range of other products that are manufactured and marketed through an extensive network of licensing agreements and other arrangements worldwide. Product lines under the various Calvin Klein brands include women’s dresses and suits, men’s dress furnishings and tailored clothing, men’s and women’s sportswear and bridge and collection apparel, golf apparel, jeanswear, underwear, fragrances, eyewear, women’s performance apparel, hosiery, socks, footwear, swimwear, jewelry, watches, outerwear, handbags, small leather goods, and home furnishings (including furniture).

PVH

With a heritage going back over 130 years, PVH Corp. has excelled at growing brands and businesses with rich American heritages, becoming one of the largest apparel companies in the world, having over 30,000 associates operating in over 40 countries with over $8 billion in 2015 revenues. Among the brands are Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Van Heusen, IZOD, ARROW, Speedo, Warner’s and more.

LoL, Sandra

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Photos: Courtesy of Calvin Klein and © Sandra Bauknecht

Christian Dior Milky Dots Manicure Kit

Dior-Milky-Dots-Summer-2016-Collection-1Dior Milky Dots

Christian Dior himself praised the timeless aura of polka dots: “they offer charm, elegance, relaxation and are always casual.

Joyous, elegant and timeless, polka dots are at the heart of DIOR‘s summer make-up collection with  confetti-strewn nails that are an invitation to dive into a fantasy-filled world.

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APPLICATION TIPS
Step 1: apply a coat of polish
Step 2: dip the Dotting Tool into the second polish in the set
Step 3: dab polka dots onto the base coat

SHADES

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Pastilles: an azure blue punctuated with nude beige

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Confettis: a bold melon heightened with cherry red

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Plumetis: a petal pink dotted with lavender mauve

DIOR Vernis with «dotting tool» (one shot) is available now for CHF 44.50.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Dior