New Label to Watch: Evening Bags by 13 BC

Here is your mid-of-the-week fashion-fix. Indulge in these new evening bags by 13 BC, amazing miniaudières that are each made from gold-tone and enamel. They’re great if you’re looking for a fab clutch to match an outfit or if you simply want to add one to your bag collection.

The story behind this new bag brand is pretty fascinating and different. Before launching 13 BC in 2018, Cherine Magrabi Tayeb was as a guest curator at museums, which inspired her to create these limited-edition pieces that bridge the gap between art and fashion. Every collection consists of 13 meticulously detailed bags, each handmade in Florence by expert craftspeople using ancient enameling techniques.

Born to an Egyptian–Saudi father and a Lebanese mother, the lithe, blonde, and blue-eyed Magrabi was raised in Jeddah. She also lived in Switzerland and the UK before moving to Beirut with her husband and their three sons in 2002.

TO SHOP MINAUDIERES BY 13 BC, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra


Photos: Courtesy of Net-à-Porter, and via Instagram @cherinemagrabi

Designer Crush: Costarellos

I am always on the search for outstanding talent in the fashion industry. Therefore I would like to introduce you to Christos CostarellosFlowing fabrics, floral prints, delicate embroideries, lace appliqués and an amazing sense for colour are in the DNA of the Athens-based designer. His romantic language tells a story about every dress that is created with moulage and couture techniques inspired by ancient Greek mythology and infused with a youthful, bohemian edge.

«The creative process I follow forms a bridge that connects elements from the past, making them relevant to the present as they project ideas for the future
Christos Costarellos

Wearing Costarellos last month in New York (for the outfit post, click here please).

Born in Duesseldorf, Germany, he was introduced to the fashion world at an early age, as his parents both worked in this industry. He studied fashion design at Dimitrelis School of Fashion in Greece and then theater costume design at the London College of Fashion, England before founding his eponymous brand in 1998.

During Paris Fashion Week, I visited Christos in his showroom at the Westin Paris Vendôme and meeting him in person was a true pleasure. He has such an amazing personality and welcomed me with open arms. His passion for craftsmanship, fabrics and colours is contagious. After showing me a video of the quality of his production in Greece and the special creative techniques for the fabric of the dress below, I was really blown me away.

Costarellos F/W 2019

Therefore it is natural that from the beginning, Christos Costarellos has worked with an exclusive clientele, who deeply appreciate his fine tailoring and finishing details. By 2000, his production line was enriched with two new ateliers, which provided the flow for the collections’ development and the unique bespoke creations.

Costarellos Bridal Wear (different seasons)

With a modern approach to timeless, romantic silhouettes, you should definitely check out his bridal wear even if you are not a bride to be. Everyone looks great in a white gown at a black tie event…

Costarellos F/W 2019

Costarellos is on the right path. After many designers struggle to keep haute couture alive, he meets the women’s demand for high-quality clothes at prices way below couture level. His so-called «Nouvelle Couture» is for me a modern way to being sustainable; investing in a beautiful gown that lasts. I would love to declare fast fashion dead!

Costarellos F/W 2019

Many seem to be in accord with me. Meghan Markle is a huge fan! A worldwide distribution network with more than 50 selling points around the globe such as Net-à-PorterModa Operandiicon, Mytheresa, and Harrodsicon are proof of Christos Costarellos’ dignified presence in the fashion industry! In Zurich available at Maison Gassmann.

Below you can enjoy some more photos that I took in the showroom. The beautiful F/W 2019 collection will hit the stores in September 2019 – #costarellosdreamers.

LoL, Sandra

Costarellos F/W 2019 (have a look at the sleeves below – such great craftsmanship)

Photos: Courtesy of Costarellos – Instagram @costarellos
and © Sandra Bauknecht

adidas Originals by Ji Won Choi

During London Fashion Week, adidas Originals has unveiled its third collaboration with an emerging female fashion designer. This time, the brand has teamed up with Ji Won Choi for a 17-piece women’s ready-to-wear collection that his inspired by her Korean heritage. She revamped adidas’ classic tracksuit with hues of lavender, blue, red, green and pink. The brand’s three stripes were also used in more parts of the garments, creating a sense of movement.

One to watch: upcoming Korean designer Ji Won Choi

Born in Seoul, raised in the Midwest USA, educated in New York City and Paris, and having worked in Milan, Ji Won Choi’s work revolves around investigating human cultures and using design to promote positive change within societies. Her thesis collection, EXCESSIVISM, was the winner of Kering Empowering Imagination Award and several other contests as well as featured in various international publications such as Forbes, WWD and Vogue. Her work has been displayed at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and at New York Textile Month. In 2017, she was awarded the «Ones to Watch» Award by Fashion Scout.

I am sure we will se a lot more of Ji Won Choi’s talent in the near future…
TO SHOP ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY JI WON CHOI, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
icon

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of adidas Originals

Rest in Peace Karl Lagerfeld

Today is a very sad day for the world of fashion and also for myself. Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris at the age of 85. When I heard the news a few hours ago, I literally cried my eyes out.

«Trendy is the last stage before tacky.» – Karl Lagerfeld

For me Lagerfeld was a genius, without him the world of fashion would not be the same. He created collections simultaneously for CHANEL and FENDI (since 1965!), in addition to his signature label, at a pace without rival in the luxury industry. When I started looking at fashion magazines in the middle of the ’80s, he had just begun designing for CHANEL. Before that he had worked at BALMAIN, JEAN PATOU and CHLOÉ where he became successful with his feminine flowing party dresses, the latter he returned to once more in the ’90s before handing the reigns to Stella McCartney.

With Karl Lagerfeld in December 2014 in Salzburg.

When I turned 18, I wished for nothing else than a CHANEL costume. Whenever I met him or interviewed him, he impressed me by his intelligence, wittiness (I attached some of my favorite quotes in this post) and his way of working, which actually was very German. Just get the job done!

I asked him once how he seeks inspiration, he looked at me and said: «Forget inspiration, you sit down every day at your desk and work, half of the outcome is for the trash bin but the other half will work.» Another time, I wanted to know when he goes on holidays and he answered: «Holidays are only for employees.»

«If you are cheap. Nothing helps.» – Karl Lagerfeld

A shoot we did during my time at Marie Claire magazine with Barbara and Boris Becker photographed by Karl Lagerfeld, March 1999.

But my favorite story happened almost 20 years ago when I started my first job at Marie Claire magazine in Germany. My fashion director Florentine Pabst at that time was very close to Karl (and by the way also Jim Morrison‘s last girlfriend) It was probably my first week at the office and she explained to me that during her meeting her phone calls would be transferred to my phone. And most importantly if Karl called, I should let him know, that she will get back to him. I said: «Karl, who? The Karl?!» She smiled and replied: «Of course.»

«Sweatpants are a sign of defeat.» – Karl Lagerfeld

I didn’t leave my desk waiting eagerly for him to call. When he did, I gave him the message. The conversation was probably not longer than 30 seconds but I sat down at my desk with the biggest smile. My boss came back and asked me what happened. I grinned and said: «I am the happiest girl in the world. I just spoke to Karl Lagerfeld.» She laughed.

After half an hour, my phone rang again. It was my fashion director telling me somebody wanted to talk to me. It was no other than Karl Lagerfeld telling me: «I heard you enjoyed talking to me so much, so I thought I give you another call.» And this is how my love story started…

Another epic moment with Karl Lagerfeld in St Moritz in February 2013 at the opening of Fire Etchings at Galerie Gmurzynska.

«I think tattoos are horrible – it’s like living in a Pucci dress full-time.» – Karl Lagerfeld

 There is so much you could talk when you think of Karl Lagerfeld. He discovered Claudia Schiffer, was such a talented photographer himself and his ultimate success with CHANEL made the house one of the most important and prolific today. Thanks to Lagerfeld, the company also acquired many specialized French craft ateliers, like Lesage for embroidery, Lemarié for feathers and artificial flowers, Maison Michel for millinery, and Causse for glove making. This craftsmanship  was celebrated with lavish Métiers d’Art fashion shows as Paris – Bombay or Paris – Salzburg for example. The famous cruise collections took place in far destinations such as Dubai or Havana, Cuba, showing Lagerfeld’s way to making CHANEL even more prominent and desirable around the world.

Eric Pfrunder, Virginie Viard and Karl Lagerfeld

This January, Lagerfeld didn’t come to his Haute Couture presentation in Paris which was already a sign that the designer was not feeling well. Instead of him, Virginie Viard, the creative studio director, took the applause. It is more than likely that she will succeed Lagerfeld as CHANEL’s designer, supported by Eric Pfrunder, the house’s director of image.

«I am very much down to earth, just not this earth.» – Karl Lagerfeld

I could go on and on and will surely share with you more about my most magical moments I had with him. Rest in Peace Karl Lagerfeld –  your legend will live on, and not only in my closet!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Karl Lagerfeld and © Sandra Bauknecht

Les Exclusifs de CHANEL 1957

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL

Is it a year? An address? Two numbers combined? 1957 is all those things as well as the link between CHANEL and the United States.
A continent enamored with Gabrielle Chanel, captivated by her creations since her debut in 1912 and then by the personality of a free and independent woman who owed her success to no one other than herself. The fascination was mutual: Mademoiselle Chanel was drawn to America by her family’s past and dreams of her beloved father who set sail for the New World. Her desire to also live this dream and achieve lasting fame became a reality: «I admire and love America,» she confided to Paul Morand, «it’s where I made my fortune» (1). And it is also where she was hailed as the most influential designer of the 20th century in 1957.

Taking in Texas: Chanel and Marcus during the Marcus Western party outside Dallas on September 7th 1957 (this trip inspired Lagerfeld later for the Paris – Dallas Metiers d’Art show).

I ADMIRE AND LOVE AMERICA

The love story between CHANEL and America began with fashion. The young milliner’s hats were distributed in New York department stores, and the press raved about her avant-garde style: Women’s Wear Daily predicted a great future for the famous sweaters created in Deauville from the moment they appeared in 1914 (2) and CHANEL designs flourished in the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair each season.

Coco Chanel for N°5, its first campaign as featured in Harper’s Bazaar in 1937.

And then there was fragrance, of course. France discovered the fragrance N°5 in 1921, and the Americans fell in love with it three years later in 1924, the same year the first makeup collection was launched. «Americans buy all things luxurious, and the greatest luxury is fragrance»: Gabrielle Chanel’s intuition was once again right.
In 1928, Vogue US slipped into the beauty salon of the Jay Thorpe department store and met the hostess trained in Paris by CHANEL, who, in addition to performing treatments with CHANEL skincare products, also guided women in their choice of fragrance, «one of the most difficult things in the world when you have tried three or four» (3).
In 1934, advertising campaigns for fragrances in American magazines began introducing Americans to new scents, unprecedented in their conception – N°5 was the first luxury fragrance to use aldehydes – and revolutionary by their rich and floral olfactory composition.

Illustrator unknown, via Vogue, October 1926

The name CHANEL was on all lips, and its style worn by all women. The iconic little black dress was celebrated by Vogue US in October 1926. By referring to the Chanel design as the «Ford dress», in reference to the Ford T automobile which had been a best-seller since 1908, the magazine ushered the little black dress into fashion history. On Broadway, actresses Katharine Cornell and Gertrude Lawrence took to the stage dressed in CHANEL. Hollywood also clamored for Gabrielle Chanel, who travelled to Los Angeles at the request of Samuel Goldwyn in 1931 to dress the actresses of MGM Studies, including Gloria Swanson, who became one of her friends.

Coco Chanel during a working visit to Los Angeles, in 1931.
Photo: © 1931 Los Angeles Times; Digital Colorization by Lee Ruelle / via Vanity Fair.

Delighted to finally discover the United States, the creator first stopped in New York with Misia Sert, where she was welcomed with great pomp. And, on their way back from California, the two friends visited Chicago and San Francisco before returning to New York. The trip lasted one month, and the American press took advantage of the opportunity to try to uncover the secrets of Gabrielle Chanel, the unstoppable businesswoman ahead of her time. From the New York Times to the New York Herald Tribune, not to mention The New Yorker, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Coco was everywhere and gave countless interviews from her suite at the Pierre Hotel. Each one of her outfits was observed in detail, her pearl necklaces and style drawing much admiration. From then on, in America, CHANEL incarnated French elegance and was synonymous with the fashion to be followed at all costs. At the end of her trip, an article in the June 1931 issue of Vanity Fair praised the designer in their “«We nominate for the Hall of Fame» feature: «Gabrielle Chanel was the first to apply the principles of modernism to dressmaking; because she numbers among her friends the most famous men of France; because she combines a shrewd business sense with enormous personal prodigality and a genuine enthusiasm for arts; and finally because she came to America to make a laudable attempt to introduce chic to Hollywood». The 1939 New York World Fair only confirmed the infatuation: the CHANEL showcases, in crystal and with sculpted heads, presenting objects and accessories that evoked the personality of Mademoiselle Chanel, were among the most admired by 44 million visitors.

CHANEL at Flushing Meadows-Corona Park for the New York World’s Fair. (1939)

Although she travelled to the United States with her friends or photographers like Horst P. Horst, Gabrielle Chanel made her big comeback in 1957. Three years earlier, Mademoiselle Chanel had returned to the world of fashion with a collection that ran totally counter to the style of the time. While Paris gave her the cold shoulder, America heaped her with even more praise. Life magazine gave her an ovation: «At 71, Gabrielle Chanel is creating more than fashion: a revolution» (4). Truman Capote himself referred to her as a «fashion visionary». But how could the land where anything was possible forget when in 1952 Marilyn Monroe made N°5 immortal by declaring she wore nothing but a few drops of the fragrance to bed?

Marilyn Monroe and her Chanel N°5 in 1952

THE MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNER OF THE 20TH CENTURY

And so 1957. That year, Stanley Marcus organized the first Neiman Marcus Fortnight in Dallas to celebrate the department store’s fiftieth anniversary. Three hundred fashion designers were invited, but only one was welcomed like a star: after arriving by the first foreign aircraft ever to land at the Dallas Love Field airport, Gabrielle Chanel climbed into the only white Rolls Royce in the procession, exclusively reserved for her. Her destination ? The podium on which she was to receive the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion, thereby declaring her the most influential designer of the 20th century. At her side was Suzy Parker, the first true top model in fashion history. In 1959, the beautiful American star became the face of N°5 featured in a campaign by Richard Avedon, followed by actresses Candice Bergen and Ali McGraw, in 1965 and 1966.

Coco Chanel and Suzy Parker, 1962

The love affair between CHANEL and America grew even stronger through the art world: in 1959, the New York Museum of Modern Art exhibited the packaging of the fragrance bottle as an example of minimalist elegance, which was later reinterpreted by Andy Warhol. The Broadway musical Coco paid tribute to Gabrielle Chanel in 1969 with a run of 300 performances starring Katharine Hepburn in the role of the designer.

«Coco» was Katherine Hepburn’s only musical on Broadway (1969).

A unique, bold and passionate rebel at heart who let nothing stand in her way, an independent, hardworking woman driven by an innate desire for success, Gabrielle Chanel became America’s adopted daughter. A daughter to whom the country paid homage on January 10, 1971: having followed and championed her from the start, the New York Times devoted three front-page columns to her «incalculable» influence on fashion and its evolution (5). Still today, history has proven her right.

The pearl sculpture, designed by Jean-Michel Othoniel, extends down a central staircase within the newly opened CHANEL store on 57th street in New York City. 

A SKIN SCENT

Alongside the reopening of the New York boutique on 57th street, CHANEL is celebrating 1957 with a new eau de parfum in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection. 1957: the year of Gabrielle Chanel’s consecration in America, but also 19, like the day of her birth, and 57, like the street number of the biggest CHANEL store in the United States. A creation that builds an olfactory bridge between France and America, joined by that iconic style. A timeless style, the CHANEL style.

«Her special style is compounded from three ingredients: girlishness, comfort, and a generous helping of pearls. In a country where emphasis is on youth and free and easy living, her designs were bound to succeed». With this definition of the CHANEL allure, the New York Times said it all (6). A modern, avant-garde style that gave women freedom to move. An eternally young and modern allure that broke with the codes of the time and shifted the conventions of chic. An art of living with a simplicity that hides a painstakingly crafted complexity, steeped with a luxury that has no need to flaunt or justify itself.

The third LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL creation composed by perfumer-creator Olivier Polge, in cooperation with the CHANEL Laboratory of Fragrance Creation and Development, 1957 illustrates the mystery of the deceptively simple CHANEL style. A balance of creamy softness, enveloping comfort, and light perfused with discreet power. A fragrance one adopts like a clean skin scent that becomes unique and deeply personal on each wearer. «For each fragrance in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection, we explore a path we have never taken», explains Olivier Polge. «This time, I opted to work with musk, more specifically white musks. Their whiteness hides a great complexity: enveloping, they emit a more or less pronounced light, and vary in their soft and sensual effects. 1957 is a skin scent that, more than others, is revealed fully on the unique chemistry of each person’s skin».

A BALANCE OF CREAMY SOFTNESS, ENVELOPING COMFORT, AND LIGHT PERFUSED WITH DISCREET POWER

An assembly of eight white musks, 1957 is structured like a layered composition of transparent, translucent and opaque veils. An immaculate superposition, comfortable and enveloping, soft, almost cushion-like. One can imagine one of Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved pearls, its delicate contours rendered imperceptible by the changing reflections: the matte whiteness of certain musks blends into the iridescent pearl of others. In this interplay of depths, woody, honeyed, spicy and floral vibrations create a luminous, powerful and sensual prominence. Vanilla and honey notes thus slip into the white musks, some with a hint of cedar, others with pink pepper, coriander seed or orange blossom. The faux simplicity of whiteness is revealed and magnified… The precision of an expertly crafted and yet abstract trail, free to enhance the skin by diffusing a distinctive and singular scent.

Coco Chanel presenting her collection in 1957, the year of her comeback.

«1957 also conjures up a certain idea of America», according to Olivier Polge. «An idea that the country has of fragrance and particularly with respect to CHANEL and N°5, which has become a model of olfactory inspiration, even for hairsprays and soaps. But also a concept that the United States introduced: what is referred to as a «sent-bon», (7) a word that speaks to me especially because it was so dear to Gabrielle Chanel. 1957 is a link: it reinterprets American perfumery with the idea the USA has had about French fragrance since N°5 paved the way». The essence of CHANEL is reunited in its trail, filled with comfort and natural elegance, a presence within a chic, refined, personal and unforgettable discretion.

1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 75 ml CHF 230.-
1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 200 ml CHF 410.-

LoL, Sandra

Photos if not stated otherwise: © CHANEL

(1) Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, ed. Hermann, 1996, p.183.
(2) WWD, July 27, 1914.
(3) Vogue US, September 29, 1928.
(4) Justine Picardie, CHANEL sa vie, Steidl, 2010, p.330.
(5) The New York Times, January 11, 1971.
(6) Linda Simon, Coco Chanel, Reaktion books, Critical Lives collection, London, 2011 p.157.
(7) A pleasant smell.

Mary Katrantzou 10 Year Anniversary Party

Today is MARY KATRANTZOU‘s birthday and with this post I want to congratulate my dear friend who also happens to be one of my favorite designers. From her first presentation, I have been collecting her outstanding designs and I am proud of my extensive collection. It’s hard to believe that it’s a decade since her designs made their catwalk debut as part of the annual Central Saint Martins MA graduate show. Her digital trompe-l’oeil prints of oversized jewellery placed on colour-block dresses were an instant hit and her label is one of London’s most loved. Since then, she has constantly evolved. The so-called «Queen of Prints» surprises me each season how she masters print and plays with proportions.

Princess Beatrice of York, Mary Katrantzou, my humble self and Federica Fanari

On top of her talent, Mary is an amazing woman, so warm-hearted – it is always so much fun spending time with her. Therefore, I hopped on the plane in the beginning of October to attend her 10 Year Anniversary Party at MATCHESFASHIONicon‘s newly opened retail space at 5 Carlos Place in London.

To celebrate the occasion, a limited edition collection was exclusively launched on MATCHESFASHION.COMicon. The capsule features 10 iconic looks from past collections, all reissued for this exclusive collaboration. And needless to say, I have most of the featured pieces in my closet. Here are a few examples:

Left: Caramolengo jewel-print silk dress (click here for the post from September 2011)
Right: Serendipity print crepe and chiffon mini dress icon(click here for the post from June 2011)icon

Left: Harp Hazzard printed silk-satin gown (click here for the previous post from May 2012)
iconRight: Powdy printed silk mini dress (click here for the previous post from December 2012)

Part of the exhibition: my beloved Jewel Tree dress from Mary’s F/W 2011 collection that I wore to her launch event with Longchamp at Collette in January 2012.

So divine: Mary Katrantzou S/S 2019

Also Mary’s S/S 2019 collection is celebrating 10 years of her eponymous label. It explores the urge to collect, catalogue and organise, infused with themes and motifs from Mary’s decade of designing. A collection of collections! Among the highlights is a dress inspired by her perfume-bottle dress from her first London fashion week collection.

Below you can enjoy some of my impressions from this amazing event. Amazing people gathered together from the world of art and fashion to celebrate our beloved Mary.

Favorite editor: Sarah Mower

With my lovely Federica Fanari

With another great designer Mira Mikati

Mary Katrantzou framed by Jasmine Hemsley and Candice Lake

With Mary Katranzou and jewellery designer Eugenie Niarchos (Venyx)

Girls in Mary: Magdalena Gabriel and me

Sandra Choi of Jimmy Choo

With Juliet Angus

The beautiful night ended at Annabel’s which is my favorite club in London… here with my gorgeous Brazilian friend Polyana Santos.

A little thank you note with lots of memories I made for Mary!

«The next decade,» Mary said, «is about taking the brand DNA and allowing men and women to buy into it in different ways, whether it’s homeware, jewellery or accessories.» No matter the medium, I am looking forward to having more Mary in my life!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of MATCHESFASHION and © Sandra Bauknechticon

Newness Alert – Cult Gaia Ready-to-Wear

Today, I have some rather gorgeous newness to share with you from Cult Gaia.

You all loved her Ark clutch when they launched, (it broke the internet – for the previous post click here please) then then came the shoes, then the jewellery and accessories and now STOP-THE-PRESS!! there is ready-to-wear.

Ark Clutch
icon

As if that wasn’t enough, we can now wear Cult Gaia head-to-toe and the full looks definitely don’t disappoint. Charming and understated, simple yet elegant, picture yourself wearing some of these looks on vacation or to a garden party for that ultimate desireable wardrobe.

TO SHOP CULT GAIA READY-TO-WEAR, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra


iconPhotos: © Cult Gaia

Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Part Ways

Breaking news last night: Raf Simons and Calvin Klein part ways after less than two years and eight months before the end of his contract. But the fashion world saw it coming after PVH (which also owns Tommy Hilfiger) chief Emanuel Chirico criticised last month the brand’s bumpy financial performance and high-fashion approach for which on the other side Simons won multiple awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America during his time at Calvin Klein.

With Raf Simons in 2014 when he was still at Dior.

Here lays exactly the problem. The Belgian designer, as well known for his cult menswear label as his well-regarded times at Jil Sander and Dior, was clearly committed to the cause of the iconic brand that consumers know for its denim, underwear and provocative marketing campaigns. He was given a multi-million-dollar salary and the title of chief creative officer. He oversaw all aspects of marketing and design for the American megabrand, a degree of control he did not have at Dior.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 ad campaign shot by Willy Vanderperre

Unfortunately, the brand, that was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC under Simons (sorry, but I have hated the name from the beginning), hoped to create a marketing effect through the high-end ready-to-wear collection for its lower-priced products. But this transformation didn’t take place. Personally speaking, I liked the looks Simons designed but I didn’t buy one single piece. Somehow I never felt the urge.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 show in NYC

For the American fashion industry, it is a big loss to see Simons go. But on the other hand, it is the only way to go. The brand will NOT even stage a runway show in February which is truly sad as his show definitely got a lot of international attention.

#MyCalvins – bestselling items the brand will focus on even more.

What will happen now with Calvin Klein? Needless to say, probably not another big designer name. but a strategy that will shift the focus of its marketing campaigns from high-fashion to more affordable items. Cobbler, stick to your trade!

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 runway collection

TO SHOP A LAST PIECE FROM RAF SIMONS FOR CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Calvin Klein and © Sandra Bauknecht

Do You Speak Prada?

PRADA REINVENTS ITS OWN CLASSICS FOR RESORT 2019
Established in 1913 at Milan’s prestigious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Prada is one of the world’s most iconic luxury fashion houses. Contemporary art and society inspire its collections, which are designed by visionary Miuccia Prada, granddaughter of founder Mario. Miuccia is fashion’s undisputed trendsetter and mood maker.

In the mid-90s she made ugly chic. For Resort 2019, she went exactly through her rich archive to revisit her famous ’90s decade. In times when everybody is doing more, she takes us back to minimalism but in a modern and updated way – spiced up with geek chic athleticism and playful embellishments.

Many of the pieces felt like revamps of prior Prada classics: a quirky mix of chunky loafers, the famous «yes, they are bad, that is why they are so good» patterns, low waists, kick flares, and opulent brocades combined with leather polos, sequin-studded tights, plastic necklaces and trapper hats. Think of me, once again, it’s Prada’s inimitable way with texture… Miuccia has started a wave. More is more or let’s say more is less. Maximalism is not over, just different.

LOCATION
In May 2018, Miuccia Prada chose the seventh floor of the Herzog & de Meurondesigned Prada HQ in New York as the venue. The transformation of the former piano factory was the first project entrusted to the famous architects by Prada in 2000. It was a kind of a striptease of the existing building: all architectural elements were removed so only the naked concrete structure remained.

THE SHOW
The space was kept as open and empty as possible for the fashion show. Only one new element was added to the space: large floating panels reflecting the cityscape outside and thus transferring images of the real city deep inside the space of the presentation. In addition to the real image of the city, other images of virtual cityscapes were projected onto the boards for an intriguing mix of inside and outside, of analogical and virtual realities.

 

PERSONAL NOTE
I have been a fan of Miuccia Prada from the beginning. A Prada nylon backpack was my school bag and I always felt very strong in her designs. When I studied fashion design, I realized how advanced her thinking is. She is a true pioneer and with her Resort 2019 collection she got the ball rolling again. Is the world ready for a return to minimalism? Probably in a different way than what we are used to. Look at the manicure for the Resort 2019 show, it is minimalistic yet maximalist. It depends on the way of looking at things… as Miuccia says: «Fashion is instant language». Do you speak Prada?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada

Vivienne Westwood x Burberry

«Vivienne Westwood was one of the first designers who made me dream to become a designer myself and when I first started at Burberry, I knew it would be the perfect opportunity to approach her to do something. She is a rebel, a punk and unrivalled in her unique representation of British style, which has inspired so many of us. I am so incredibly proud of what we will be creating together
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood and Burberry revealed the campaign for their collaboration
which was shot in London by David Sims.
The campaign features an eclectic cast wearing looks from the limited-edition collection
created as a collaboration between Riccardo Tisci, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler. The cast includes: Kate Moss, Sistren, Leonard Emmanuel, LadyFag, Josh Quinton,
Andy Bradin, DelaRosa, Claudia Lavender, Marco Motta, Sashadavai
and Jacob Shifrin as well as Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler.

THE COLLECTION

The collection celebrates British style and heritage and is inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s iconic collections, taking a unisex approach across styles.

Vivienne Westwood’s famous designs – from classic double-breasted jackets, a hugger jacket and a mini kilt to lace up platforms and a beret – are all reimagined in Burberry’s Vintage check. «Vivienne Westwood & Burberry» is the first collaboration for Burberry under its newly appointed Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci and is now available online and in select Burberry stores globally.

COOL EARTH

Vivienne Westwood and Riccardo Tisci were united by a shared vision to support and promote Cool Earth, a UK based non-profit organisation that works alongside rainforest communities to halt deforestation and climate change, through this collaboration.

At the heart of the collection, is an oversized T-shirt dedicated to the charity, with a handwritten message from Vivienne. She will also customise four exclusive items from the collection to be auctioned to raise further support for Cool Earth.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry, © David Sims