Les Exclusifs de CHANEL 1957

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL

Is it a year? An address? Two numbers combined? 1957 is all those things as well as the link between CHANEL and the United States.
A continent enamored with Gabrielle Chanel, captivated by her creations since her debut in 1912 and then by the personality of a free and independent woman who owed her success to no one other than herself. The fascination was mutual: Mademoiselle Chanel was drawn to America by her family’s past and dreams of her beloved father who set sail for the New World. Her desire to also live this dream and achieve lasting fame became a reality: «I admire and love America,» she confided to Paul Morand, «it’s where I made my fortune» (1). And it is also where she was hailed as the most influential designer of the 20th century in 1957.

Taking in Texas: Chanel and Marcus during the Marcus Western party outside Dallas on September 7th 1957 (this trip inspired Lagerfeld later for the Paris – Dallas Metiers d’Art show).

I ADMIRE AND LOVE AMERICA

The love story between CHANEL and America began with fashion. The young milliner’s hats were distributed in New York department stores, and the press raved about her avant-garde style: Women’s Wear Daily predicted a great future for the famous sweaters created in Deauville from the moment they appeared in 1914 (2) and CHANEL designs flourished in the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair each season.

Coco Chanel for N°5, its first campaign as featured in Harper’s Bazaar in 1937.

And then there was fragrance, of course. France discovered the fragrance N°5 in 1921, and the Americans fell in love with it three years later in 1924, the same year the first makeup collection was launched. «Americans buy all things luxurious, and the greatest luxury is fragrance»: Gabrielle Chanel’s intuition was once again right.
In 1928, Vogue US slipped into the beauty salon of the Jay Thorpe department store and met the hostess trained in Paris by CHANEL, who, in addition to performing treatments with CHANEL skincare products, also guided women in their choice of fragrance, «one of the most difficult things in the world when you have tried three or four» (3).
In 1934, advertising campaigns for fragrances in American magazines began introducing Americans to new scents, unprecedented in their conception – N°5 was the first luxury fragrance to use aldehydes – and revolutionary by their rich and floral olfactory composition.

Illustrator unknown, via Vogue, October 1926

The name CHANEL was on all lips, and its style worn by all women. The iconic little black dress was celebrated by Vogue US in October 1926. By referring to the Chanel design as the «Ford dress», in reference to the Ford T automobile which had been a best-seller since 1908, the magazine ushered the little black dress into fashion history. On Broadway, actresses Katharine Cornell and Gertrude Lawrence took to the stage dressed in CHANEL. Hollywood also clamored for Gabrielle Chanel, who travelled to Los Angeles at the request of Samuel Goldwyn in 1931 to dress the actresses of MGM Studies, including Gloria Swanson, who became one of her friends.

Coco Chanel during a working visit to Los Angeles, in 1931.
Photo: © 1931 Los Angeles Times; Digital Colorization by Lee Ruelle / via Vanity Fair.

Delighted to finally discover the United States, the creator first stopped in New York with Misia Sert, where she was welcomed with great pomp. And, on their way back from California, the two friends visited Chicago and San Francisco before returning to New York. The trip lasted one month, and the American press took advantage of the opportunity to try to uncover the secrets of Gabrielle Chanel, the unstoppable businesswoman ahead of her time. From the New York Times to the New York Herald Tribune, not to mention The New Yorker, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Coco was everywhere and gave countless interviews from her suite at the Pierre Hotel. Each one of her outfits was observed in detail, her pearl necklaces and style drawing much admiration. From then on, in America, CHANEL incarnated French elegance and was synonymous with the fashion to be followed at all costs. At the end of her trip, an article in the June 1931 issue of Vanity Fair praised the designer in their “«We nominate for the Hall of Fame» feature: «Gabrielle Chanel was the first to apply the principles of modernism to dressmaking; because she numbers among her friends the most famous men of France; because she combines a shrewd business sense with enormous personal prodigality and a genuine enthusiasm for arts; and finally because she came to America to make a laudable attempt to introduce chic to Hollywood». The 1939 New York World Fair only confirmed the infatuation: the CHANEL showcases, in crystal and with sculpted heads, presenting objects and accessories that evoked the personality of Mademoiselle Chanel, were among the most admired by 44 million visitors.

CHANEL at Flushing Meadows-Corona Park for the New York World’s Fair. (1939)

Although she travelled to the United States with her friends or photographers like Horst P. Horst, Gabrielle Chanel made her big comeback in 1957. Three years earlier, Mademoiselle Chanel had returned to the world of fashion with a collection that ran totally counter to the style of the time. While Paris gave her the cold shoulder, America heaped her with even more praise. Life magazine gave her an ovation: «At 71, Gabrielle Chanel is creating more than fashion: a revolution» (4). Truman Capote himself referred to her as a «fashion visionary». But how could the land where anything was possible forget when in 1952 Marilyn Monroe made N°5 immortal by declaring she wore nothing but a few drops of the fragrance to bed?

Marilyn Monroe and her Chanel N°5 in 1952

THE MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNER OF THE 20TH CENTURY

And so 1957. That year, Stanley Marcus organized the first Neiman Marcus Fortnight in Dallas to celebrate the department store’s fiftieth anniversary. Three hundred fashion designers were invited, but only one was welcomed like a star: after arriving by the first foreign aircraft ever to land at the Dallas Love Field airport, Gabrielle Chanel climbed into the only white Rolls Royce in the procession, exclusively reserved for her. Her destination ? The podium on which she was to receive the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion, thereby declaring her the most influential designer of the 20th century. At her side was Suzy Parker, the first true top model in fashion history. In 1959, the beautiful American star became the face of N°5 featured in a campaign by Richard Avedon, followed by actresses Candice Bergen and Ali McGraw, in 1965 and 1966.

Coco Chanel and Suzy Parker, 1962

The love affair between CHANEL and America grew even stronger through the art world: in 1959, the New York Museum of Modern Art exhibited the packaging of the fragrance bottle as an example of minimalist elegance, which was later reinterpreted by Andy Warhol. The Broadway musical Coco paid tribute to Gabrielle Chanel in 1969 with a run of 300 performances starring Katharine Hepburn in the role of the designer.

«Coco» was Katherine Hepburn’s only musical on Broadway (1969).

A unique, bold and passionate rebel at heart who let nothing stand in her way, an independent, hardworking woman driven by an innate desire for success, Gabrielle Chanel became America’s adopted daughter. A daughter to whom the country paid homage on January 10, 1971: having followed and championed her from the start, the New York Times devoted three front-page columns to her «incalculable» influence on fashion and its evolution (5). Still today, history has proven her right.

The pearl sculpture, designed by Jean-Michel Othoniel, extends down a central staircase within the newly opened CHANEL store on 57th street in New York City. 

A SKIN SCENT

Alongside the reopening of the New York boutique on 57th street, CHANEL is celebrating 1957 with a new eau de parfum in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection. 1957: the year of Gabrielle Chanel’s consecration in America, but also 19, like the day of her birth, and 57, like the street number of the biggest CHANEL store in the United States. A creation that builds an olfactory bridge between France and America, joined by that iconic style. A timeless style, the CHANEL style.

«Her special style is compounded from three ingredients: girlishness, comfort, and a generous helping of pearls. In a country where emphasis is on youth and free and easy living, her designs were bound to succeed». With this definition of the CHANEL allure, the New York Times said it all (6). A modern, avant-garde style that gave women freedom to move. An eternally young and modern allure that broke with the codes of the time and shifted the conventions of chic. An art of living with a simplicity that hides a painstakingly crafted complexity, steeped with a luxury that has no need to flaunt or justify itself.

The third LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL creation composed by perfumer-creator Olivier Polge, in cooperation with the CHANEL Laboratory of Fragrance Creation and Development, 1957 illustrates the mystery of the deceptively simple CHANEL style. A balance of creamy softness, enveloping comfort, and light perfused with discreet power. A fragrance one adopts like a clean skin scent that becomes unique and deeply personal on each wearer. «For each fragrance in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection, we explore a path we have never taken», explains Olivier Polge. «This time, I opted to work with musk, more specifically white musks. Their whiteness hides a great complexity: enveloping, they emit a more or less pronounced light, and vary in their soft and sensual effects. 1957 is a skin scent that, more than others, is revealed fully on the unique chemistry of each person’s skin».

A BALANCE OF CREAMY SOFTNESS, ENVELOPING COMFORT, AND LIGHT PERFUSED WITH DISCREET POWER

An assembly of eight white musks, 1957 is structured like a layered composition of transparent, translucent and opaque veils. An immaculate superposition, comfortable and enveloping, soft, almost cushion-like. One can imagine one of Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved pearls, its delicate contours rendered imperceptible by the changing reflections: the matte whiteness of certain musks blends into the iridescent pearl of others. In this interplay of depths, woody, honeyed, spicy and floral vibrations create a luminous, powerful and sensual prominence. Vanilla and honey notes thus slip into the white musks, some with a hint of cedar, others with pink pepper, coriander seed or orange blossom. The faux simplicity of whiteness is revealed and magnified… The precision of an expertly crafted and yet abstract trail, free to enhance the skin by diffusing a distinctive and singular scent.

Coco Chanel presenting her collection in 1957, the year of her comeback.

«1957 also conjures up a certain idea of America», according to Olivier Polge. «An idea that the country has of fragrance and particularly with respect to CHANEL and N°5, which has become a model of olfactory inspiration, even for hairsprays and soaps. But also a concept that the United States introduced: what is referred to as a «sent-bon», (7) a word that speaks to me especially because it was so dear to Gabrielle Chanel. 1957 is a link: it reinterprets American perfumery with the idea the USA has had about French fragrance since N°5 paved the way». The essence of CHANEL is reunited in its trail, filled with comfort and natural elegance, a presence within a chic, refined, personal and unforgettable discretion.

1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 75 ml CHF 230.-
1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 200 ml CHF 410.-

LoL, Sandra

Photos if not stated otherwise: © CHANEL

(1) Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, ed. Hermann, 1996, p.183.
(2) WWD, July 27, 1914.
(3) Vogue US, September 29, 1928.
(4) Justine Picardie, CHANEL sa vie, Steidl, 2010, p.330.
(5) The New York Times, January 11, 1971.
(6) Linda Simon, Coco Chanel, Reaktion books, Critical Lives collection, London, 2011 p.157.
(7) A pleasant smell.

Mary Katrantzou 10 Year Anniversary Party

Today is MARY KATRANTZOU‘s birthday and with this post I want to congratulate my dear friend who also happens to be one of my favorite designers. From her first presentation, I have been collecting her outstanding designs and I am proud of my extensive collection. It’s hard to believe that it’s a decade since her designs made their catwalk debut as part of the annual Central Saint Martins MA graduate show. Her digital trompe-l’oeil prints of oversized jewellery placed on colour-block dresses were an instant hit and her label is one of London’s most loved. Since then, she has constantly evolved. The so-called «Queen of Prints» surprises me each season how she masters print and plays with proportions.

Princess Beatrice of York, Mary Katrantzou, my humble self and Federica Fanari

On top of her talent, Mary is an amazing woman, so warm-hearted – it is always so much fun spending time with her. Therefore, I hopped on the plane in the beginning of October to attend her 10 Year Anniversary Party at MATCHESFASHIONicon‘s newly opened retail space at 5 Carlos Place in London.

To celebrate the occasion, a limited edition collection was exclusively launched on MATCHESFASHION.COMicon. The capsule features 10 iconic looks from past collections, all reissued for this exclusive collaboration. And needless to say, I have most of the featured pieces in my closet. Here are a few examples:

Left: Caramolengo jewel-print silk dress (click here for the post from September 2011)
Right: Serendipity print crepe and chiffon mini dress icon(click here for the post from June 2011)icon

Left: Harp Hazzard printed silk-satin gown (click here for the previous post from May 2012)
iconRight: Powdy printed silk mini dress (click here for the previous post from December 2012)

Part of the exhibition: my beloved Jewel Tree dress from Mary’s F/W 2011 collection that I wore to her launch event with Longchamp at Collette in January 2012.

So divine: Mary Katrantzou S/S 2019

Also Mary’s S/S 2019 collection is celebrating 10 years of her eponymous label. It explores the urge to collect, catalogue and organise, infused with themes and motifs from Mary’s decade of designing. A collection of collections! Among the highlights is a dress inspired by her perfume-bottle dress from her first London fashion week collection.

Below you can enjoy some of my impressions from this amazing event. Amazing people gathered together from the world of art and fashion to celebrate our beloved Mary.

Favorite editor: Sarah Mower

With my lovely Federica Fanari

With another great designer Mira Mikati

Mary Katrantzou framed by Jasmine Hemsley and Candice Lake

With Mary Katranzou and jewellery designer Eugenie Niarchos (Venyx)

Girls in Mary: Magdalena Gabriel and me

Sandra Choi of Jimmy Choo

With Juliet Angus

The beautiful night ended at Annabel’s which is my favorite club in London… here with my gorgeous Brazilian friend Polyana Santos.

A little thank you note with lots of memories I made for Mary!

«The next decade,» Mary said, «is about taking the brand DNA and allowing men and women to buy into it in different ways, whether it’s homeware, jewellery or accessories.» No matter the medium, I am looking forward to having more Mary in my life!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of MATCHESFASHION and © Sandra Bauknechticon

Newness Alert – Cult Gaia Ready-to-Wear

Today, I have some rather gorgeous newness to share with you from Cult Gaia.

You all loved her Ark clutch when they launched, (it broke the internet – for the previous post click here please) then then came the shoes, then the jewellery and accessories and now STOP-THE-PRESS!! there is ready-to-wear.

Ark Clutch
icon

As if that wasn’t enough, we can now wear Cult Gaia head-to-toe and the full looks definitely don’t disappoint. Charming and understated, simple yet elegant, picture yourself wearing some of these looks on vacation or to a garden party for that ultimate desireable wardrobe.

TO SHOP CULT GAIA READY-TO-WEAR, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra


iconPhotos: © Cult Gaia

Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Part Ways

Breaking news last night: Raf Simons and Calvin Klein part ways after less than two years and eight months before the end of his contract. But the fashion world saw it coming after PVH (which also owns Tommy Hilfiger) chief Emanuel Chirico criticised last month the brand’s bumpy financial performance and high-fashion approach for which on the other side Simons won multiple awards from the Council of Fashion Designers of America during his time at Calvin Klein.

With Raf Simons in 2014 when he was still at Dior.

Here lays exactly the problem. The Belgian designer, as well known for his cult menswear label as his well-regarded times at Jil Sander and Dior, was clearly committed to the cause of the iconic brand that consumers know for its denim, underwear and provocative marketing campaigns. He was given a multi-million-dollar salary and the title of chief creative officer. He oversaw all aspects of marketing and design for the American megabrand, a degree of control he did not have at Dior.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 ad campaign shot by Willy Vanderperre

Unfortunately, the brand, that was renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC under Simons (sorry, but I have hated the name from the beginning), hoped to create a marketing effect through the high-end ready-to-wear collection for its lower-priced products. But this transformation didn’t take place. Personally speaking, I liked the looks Simons designed but I didn’t buy one single piece. Somehow I never felt the urge.

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 show in NYC

For the American fashion industry, it is a big loss to see Simons go. But on the other hand, it is the only way to go. The brand will NOT even stage a runway show in February which is truly sad as his show definitely got a lot of international attention.

#MyCalvins – bestselling items the brand will focus on even more.

What will happen now with Calvin Klein? Needless to say, probably not another big designer name. but a strategy that will shift the focus of its marketing campaigns from high-fashion to more affordable items. Cobbler, stick to your trade!

Calvin Klein 205W39NYC F/W 2018 runway collection

TO SHOP A LAST PIECE FROM RAF SIMONS FOR CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Calvin Klein and © Sandra Bauknecht

Do You Speak Prada?

PRADA REINVENTS ITS OWN CLASSICS FOR RESORT 2019
Established in 1913 at Milan’s prestigious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Prada is one of the world’s most iconic luxury fashion houses. Contemporary art and society inspire its collections, which are designed by visionary Miuccia Prada, granddaughter of founder Mario. Miuccia is fashion’s undisputed trendsetter and mood maker.

In the mid-90s she made ugly chic. For Resort 2019, she went exactly through her rich archive to revisit her famous ’90s decade. In times when everybody is doing more, she takes us back to minimalism but in a modern and updated way – spiced up with geek chic athleticism and playful embellishments.

Many of the pieces felt like revamps of prior Prada classics: a quirky mix of chunky loafers, the famous «yes, they are bad, that is why they are so good» patterns, low waists, kick flares, and opulent brocades combined with leather polos, sequin-studded tights, plastic necklaces and trapper hats. Think of me, once again, it’s Prada’s inimitable way with texture… Miuccia has started a wave. More is more or let’s say more is less. Maximalism is not over, just different.

LOCATION
In May 2018, Miuccia Prada chose the seventh floor of the Herzog & de Meurondesigned Prada HQ in New York as the venue. The transformation of the former piano factory was the first project entrusted to the famous architects by Prada in 2000. It was a kind of a striptease of the existing building: all architectural elements were removed so only the naked concrete structure remained.

THE SHOW
The space was kept as open and empty as possible for the fashion show. Only one new element was added to the space: large floating panels reflecting the cityscape outside and thus transferring images of the real city deep inside the space of the presentation. In addition to the real image of the city, other images of virtual cityscapes were projected onto the boards for an intriguing mix of inside and outside, of analogical and virtual realities.

 

PERSONAL NOTE
I have been a fan of Miuccia Prada from the beginning. A Prada nylon backpack was my school bag and I always felt very strong in her designs. When I studied fashion design, I realized how advanced her thinking is. She is a true pioneer and with her Resort 2019 collection she got the ball rolling again. Is the world ready for a return to minimalism? Probably in a different way than what we are used to. Look at the manicure for the Resort 2019 show, it is minimalistic yet maximalist. It depends on the way of looking at things… as Miuccia says: «Fashion is instant language». Do you speak Prada?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada

Vivienne Westwood x Burberry

«Vivienne Westwood was one of the first designers who made me dream to become a designer myself and when I first started at Burberry, I knew it would be the perfect opportunity to approach her to do something. She is a rebel, a punk and unrivalled in her unique representation of British style, which has inspired so many of us. I am so incredibly proud of what we will be creating together
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood and Burberry revealed the campaign for their collaboration
which was shot in London by David Sims.
The campaign features an eclectic cast wearing looks from the limited-edition collection
created as a collaboration between Riccardo Tisci, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler. The cast includes: Kate Moss, Sistren, Leonard Emmanuel, LadyFag, Josh Quinton,
Andy Bradin, DelaRosa, Claudia Lavender, Marco Motta, Sashadavai
and Jacob Shifrin as well as Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler.

THE COLLECTION

The collection celebrates British style and heritage and is inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s iconic collections, taking a unisex approach across styles.

Vivienne Westwood’s famous designs – from classic double-breasted jackets, a hugger jacket and a mini kilt to lace up platforms and a beret – are all reimagined in Burberry’s Vintage check. «Vivienne Westwood & Burberry» is the first collaboration for Burberry under its newly appointed Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci and is now available online and in select Burberry stores globally.

COOL EARTH

Vivienne Westwood and Riccardo Tisci were united by a shared vision to support and promote Cool Earth, a UK based non-profit organisation that works alongside rainforest communities to halt deforestation and climate change, through this collaboration.

At the heart of the collection, is an oversized T-shirt dedicated to the charity, with a handwritten message from Vivienne. She will also customise four exclusive items from the collection to be auctioned to raise further support for Cool Earth.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry, © David Sims

At the Opening of Vogue’s First Concept Store

My dear readers, it is very important that you read until the end of this post as a very special treat is waiting for you to celebrate 9 years of my blog! I am convinced you will love it…

The idea of the concept store is by no means unheard of nowadays. In 1990 the first one of this kind opened its doors in Milan, 10 Corso Como, followed by Opening Ceremony, Colette and Dover Street Market, just to name a few.

The new VOGUE concept store inside the OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

What is a concept store? A 360 degrees experience, a type of living magazine, offering a unique mix of art, fashion, one-of-a-kind homeware and accessories. Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Germany, takes the idea a step further. The tall blonde has been dedicated to supporting emerging talent within the fashion industry since many years. In 2011, she launched the VOGUE Salon, an initiative to grant up-and-coming German fashion designers the opportunity to present exclusive collections to industry opinion leaders. It takes place twice a year during Berlin Fashion Week.

With Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Germany, at the VOGUE concept store opening.

Now, Christiane Arp takes her engagement a step further. Looking for new ways for print media to attract readers and to create attention for the brand itself, she had the idea to launch the VOGUE Concept Store in cooperation with OUTLETCITY METZINGEN.

From left to right: Tim Labenda, David Tomaszewski, Marina Hoermanseder, William Fan, Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon, Wolfang Bauer (CEO OUTLETCITY METZINGEN) and Christiane Arp.

Chosen for their one-of-a-kind viewpoints and unparalleled talent were Marina Hoermanseder (click here for a previous post about her collaboration with EOS), Tim Labenda, Dawid Tomaszewski, Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon and William Fan. The pieces of the respective designers, which are not older than three months, were bought by OUTLETCITY METZINGEN, which is operating the store in collaboration with VOGUE that is in charge for the marketing and advertising in return. Christiane Arp herself made the selection.

Always at work – here during the fashion show.

It is a win-win situation – a great way to support emerging talents in Germany. The young designers receive through the sale enough money to invest in their next collection.

The pop-up store will be there for six month until April 2019. Inside, you can find many interactive and augmented reality features such as ideas how to style the pieces. Moreover, via your smartphones, you can access information about the designers themselves and their inspirations.

The bestseller that night was definitely the VOGUE logo tops, sweatshirts that came with the latest issue of VOGUE Germany.

Catching up with longtime friends at the opening: Ingrid Hedley, Marketing Director VOGUE & AD Architectural Digest, and Marina Hoermanseder.

And when you are wondering why VOGUE opened in Metzingen in an outlet mall, that seems to be in the middle of nowhere, remember where Carla Sozzani opened her 10 Corso Como shop almost 30 years ago. The location seemed very far away to the people and it was not glamorous at all with its concrete floor. At the time, Via Monte Napoleone was considered the only shopping street. You have to think in new ways, especially print media… the same goes for blogging by the way.

Before it’s in Fashion, it’s in VOGUE! or let’s say now in the VOGUE concept store! And before that of course in Sandra’s Closet :-)!

To celebrate the 9th anniversary of my blog, I have a treat for you. When I was at the opening party of the VOGUE concept store, I was truly overwhelmed by the size and the design of the the OUTLETCITY METZINGEN. Personally speaking, some stores look so much better and are bigger than in Zurich. I attached a few pictures for you below. The collections on display are from S/S 2018 with prices marked down up to 70%.

Metzingen is not far from Stuttgart in Germany. The little village is dedicated to its OUTLETCITY. You can find many hotels and restaurants. If you prefer staying in Stuttgart, no problem, there are bus transfers for Metzingen, leaving from most of the hotels.

Toasting with Christina Gobil at the opening of the VOGUE concept store to 9 years of Sandra’s Closet!

HERE COMES MY ANNIVERSARY TREAT FOR YOU:

As my dear reader, you are entitled to the VIP Shopping Pass:
Mention «Sandra’s Closet» when you arrive at the International Service Point, located at Reutlinger Strasse 58, 72555 Metzingen, Germany.
You will receive a VIP Shopping Pass, a welcome Winzersekt (a vintner’s sparkling wine – German kind of champagne) and a coffee voucher. The VIP Shopping Pass offers also an extra 10% discount at the Vogue Concept Store and other participating stores.
The offer is valid until March 31st, 2019.

Have fun shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Bottega Veneta in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Prada in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Jimmy Choo in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Gucci in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

The Burberry shop in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN has already the new logo.

The whole area looks like one of those amazing gigantic US shopping malls.

Photos: Courtesy of VOGUE, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN and © Sandra Bauknecht 

L’Oréal Paris x Isabel Marant

Great news for all beauty addicts and fashion lovers around the globe, this month Isabel Marant, the queen of effortless Parisian chic, is launching a make-up collection with L’Oréal Paris. Five multi-purpose products in a range of perfect shades, the line is ideal for creating the insouciant, pared-back look Marant’s customers adore. Below, take a first look at the products as the designer gives us an insight about the process behind creating the collection, and how the partnership came about.

With Isabel Marant – the queen of effortless Parisian chic

L’ORÉAL X ISABEL MARANT – WANTED: ONE COLLECTION OF EFFORTLESS PARISIAN ALLURE

For your first ever makeup collection, what did you want to bring to women?
Exactly what I want in my makeup bag. The essential products for every day, for life on-the-go. I approached this makeup collection in the same way I design my ready-to-wear collections: to be wearable anytime, anywhere. For me, Parisian cool style is not about social media perfection, it is a natural elegance: Super-natural for day then statement updates for night with a dark eye or a bright red lip. But never both at the same time. And always worn with a slight offbeat edge. Imperfection has a charm all its own. A makeup embracing your own personality.

This collaboration is Paris meets the Wild West, what inspires you about that era?
I love the myth of the Wild West. That borderless way of life, eyeing new horizons and feeling the endless possibilities of adventure. The way our culture is today. This modern reinterpretation of the West has been a theme of my fashion collections. The wildness of that era, the exploration, the rebelliousness… it is a continuous inspiration to me.

Why on-the-go makeup products?
For this collection, the question I asked myself was the same as when I design clothes: “what do I want to wear? What do I need that I don’t already have?” And the answer is makeup that’s effortless because we’re all on the go. Who goes back at home to change after a long day of work? I wanted to create products that are practical, fast on the draw! That can be applied on the go. Products that are small enough to take with you anywhere, any time. And also what was important to me was that each of these is multi-purposed. Easy to use and easy to take with you anywhere.

How did you decide what you wanted to include as essentials?
For me, every day makeup should be about wearing just one thing. One brush of mascara or a touch of lipstick or a little shadow. To create this collection, started with those three products. Then, the addition is a bit of color on the cheeks. The look I envision is makeup without trying, slightly undone. Easy natural elegance.

What influenced which colors you wanted?
For this collection, I had in mind colors “hors du temps”, timeless. The sought after Parisian look of today with a modern feel. We have three red lipsticks for that modern women can dress up with.

Isabel Marant F/W 2018

What inspired the L’Oréal Paris x Isabel Marant graphic aesthetic?
The inspiration is my Fall Winter 18 Collection, which is cowboyish: The “Wanted Posters” from the Wild West that we have reinterpreted in a modern way. And Black on white is the signature!

With each product emblazoned with either to SMILE, to SHINE, to AMAZE… is the message to wear makeup with confidence?
Absolutely. For me, that’s the difference between embracing first the woman, her personality, rather than the makeup first. It is very important to me. Those sentences are a lift me up to women using my products. And it is also a small touch of humour. We had fun in thinking about those sentences.

Let’s talk about each essential.
SMILE – You’re known for your smile – what is lipstick to a smile?
I love red lipstick: Beautiful alone, lipstick can even be more powerful with a smile! We’ve created 7 Isabel Marant shades for Color Riche, 2 nudes, for a bare lip look, 3 different reds for that bold lips you spot brightening a grey day on the Paris streets, and two deeper plum shades.

WANTED – Why a double-duty translucent mascara?
This transparent mascara is very natural but in the same time very sexy and you can also use it to tame your brows. Transparent, it suits every lash color, and gives a very natural, ‘wet’ look – a dewy, just emerged from water finish – that works on everyone. I love it.

SMOKE – When and where do you rock a smoky eye?
I’l l create a smoldering smoky eye to go out. The handy pocket shadow combines matte black for the smokiness with a beautiful iridescent black, blended with chromatic emerald and blue shimmer to add depth and intrigue to any eye color. Smudge on with your fingertips for a nonchalant Paris night.

AMAZE – When do you most need or use a cheek tint?
At the final stage of a show, when all the final touches being placed start showing up. When you just need a most subtle touch of color and light on the face. What’s genius about this cheek tint is that the formula adapts to your skin’s natural coloring.

SHINE – How does this highlighter reintroduce shine?
This is the light to detract any shadows or dullness. It’s a flattering, anytime highlighter that puts women in their best light. A multi-purpose cream that turns into a powder on skin, to blur imperfections while it subtly highlights.

What did you learn in the L’Oréal Paris labs that you didn’t know before about makeup?
So much. There’s a level of technology involved in the colors and in the textures. For example, AMAZE really amazed me! A formula that responds to the pH of your skin!

You’re the epitome of the natural look, how does this new capsule collection achieve that effortless result?
I would say understated not overdone. We’ve made the tones and the shades for natural looks – that take a nude lipstick, transparent mascara, a cheek tint for a flush that looks healthy and natural.

WANTED: WHEN THE WILD WEST HITS PARIS

How is the spirit of the Wild West captured in the campaign?
The Wild West comes to the Paris of today. So, of course the first shot is a woman on horseback. You see these strong women who dare to kick up dust, stand tall and prepare to duel in the City of Lights. These heroines will not stand for the status quo. The world is theirs – and they know it.

What made you decide – “Women on horseback!”
It was inspired by my Ready to Wear Fall 18 Collection. Uninterrupted horizons and low skies were the unseen backdrop for my silhouettes that inspired me. It’s such a powerful image, the rider on horseback. I enjoy rewriting the myth of the Wild West, the Wild West in Paris. These are heroines in their own right, not a cowboy in sight.

Is the Isabel Marant woman a loner or part of a bigger gang?
I don’t like the idea to put people in boxes. But I see my “girl” as an independent-minded woman shaping her own paths – yet joining up with other women to travel stretches of road at a time together.

Isabel Marant’s F/W 2018 campaign was photographed by Juergen Teller.

WANTED: A SHARED FORCE OF FEMININITY

What are the 3 values distinct to the Isabel Marant brand?
Sincerity, pioneering spirit, joy.

What is self-worth to you?
It’s self-respect, having an inner voice that speaks up for yourself, not down. Being yourself without letting the others change your point of view.

When did you first hear “Worth It”?
“Je le bien” I remember hearing as a teenager. It stood out at the time, but it must have resonated, even as a tomboy teenager raiding her dad’s wardrobe and not subscribing to the feminine ideals of the time.

What does “Worth it” bring to mind today?
It makes me think of women having to take ownership of their identities and choose their own path. Unfortunately, it is still not the case everywhere in the world.

Why L’Oréal Paris & Isabel Marant?
I love dressing women all around the world, in all their diversity – with a vision of femininity that I share with L’Oréal Paris. I like to give women the confidence to express themselves freely.

Both represent facets of the Parisian look, how would you describe French style in a few words?
French style is style. It’s somewhat hard to define the Parisian look. It is a carefree nonchalance, without trying just simply elegant, not pretentious. I think my style is really Parisian.

How do both you, and L’Oréal Paris champion women?
Giving each woman the freedom to be whoever she wants to be.

How do you define beauty?
Beauty is embracing yourself, it adds confidence.

WANTED: ONE SELF-MADE DESIGNER

How did your journey to a most wanted fashion designer begin?
I was actually going to study economics, but then because I couldn’t find the kind-of clothes I wanted to wear in the shops, I started making them myself. And that’s how the label first began.

Over 24 years as creative head of your label, what are your greatest triumphs?
I’d say one of the things I love most is seeing someone on the street wearing one of my designs from years ago. Seeing a pair of boots or a dress, be loved and worn for seasons. That to me is the greatest triumph.

Known for her conic heels: Lileas ruched leather ankle boots for F/W 2018icon

As a fashion designer, everybody wants more of you, how do you deal with fame?
I don’t see myself as famous. I’m not recognized all the time and luckily in Paris, people are mostly discreet, they want to play it cool and that’s great with me.

Your designs have a very distinctive Parisian signature, how do you describe it?
Effortless, free. A silhouette that speaks of self-affirmation and individuality with an art of contrast. Tomboyish but sexy.

What drives you to stay independent?
I always had creative freedom since I was young and that is never going to change. Freedom is everything to me.

You’ve said before what you do isn’t about fashion, rather “getting dressed.” How does that ethos translate into this beauty collection?
This collection is about getting ready: getting ready for a special day or getting ready for a party, the essentials to have always in your bag but still embracing yourself. Essentials that aren’t about creating an entirely new look but giving elegance to the look you have.

What makes Parisian style so desired by the world?
This is a question I’m often asked. I think Parisians are known for not overdoing their style, for having discreet elegance. Just having that little touch of charm. That’s said, French don’t look to work on their style but in fact they do!

WANTED: THE WOMAN BEHIND THE DESIGNER

How do you feel about your reflection?
I am happy with who I am and I am not afraid of time passing. I see the movement of time. I see aging as a beautiful thing that does not need to be changed and I do things for myself, to keep my mind and my body healthy. I’m very happy to be here, doing what I do.

Why such social media discretion?
I lead a full life, I’m a busy working woman. I cannot spend my time on social media because I don’t have time. But I am curious about what customers have to say about the brand. In the past, it was difficult to get feedback and get customers points of views.

Agnès Varda and her historical alter ego in her most recent movie.

Who’s your superhero?
Agnès Varda, one of the only female film Directors of the New Wave. I like what she represents for the French cinema, and what she has made smoothly for the feminist cause.

Do you see yourself as feminist?
I am not a feminist as a militant but rather in the way that equality is so rooted in me that I do not really think about people’s gender when I think of them. A majority of women work in my company, but this was never thought-out and I don’t make a political statement of it, they were just the best persons, the right moment.

If you could live in any other decade, which one would it be?
In the Wild West of the 19 th Century. 

What would you say to your younger self?
Stand up for yourself. Trust your voice. And don’t listen to anyone else. Follow your own path.

What is your mantra? Favorite quote?
Less is more.

One makeup product that you couldn’t live without?
A beautiful red lipstick which galvanizes when you are a little bit down.

Indians or cowboys?
I love the culture, the history and the myths surrounding both. Indians and cowgirls you mean?!

AVAILABLE NOW ONLY AND EXCLUSIVE AT MANOR IN SWITZERLAND.

HIGHLIGHTER: CHF 14.90
BROW MASCARA: CHF 16.90
LIP GLOSS: CHF 15.90
LIP STICK : CHF 21.90

TO SHOP ISABEL MARANT PRÊT-À-PORTER AND ACCESSORIES, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of L’Oréal Paris and © Sandra Bauknecht

Hedi Slimane’s First Celine Collection

Yesterday, fashion’s second most anticipated show took place, Hedi Slimane’s debut for Céline. Ups, first mistake. He took the «accent aigu» (acute accent) away and Céline is now Celine. The looks, personally speaking, were very much Saint Laurent at his time, as if he just continued where he left off. For me absolutely boring.

The Celine S/S 2019 show invite

I loved when he started at Saint Laurent and went crazy for his looks. But after some seasons, I had enough in my closet of his rock’n roll chic. Of course, the collection for Celine is good, very ’80s and sexy. It is also ok to stay to true to yourself. But as a designer, I find it important to go with time and to value a brand’s heritage. Hedi just repeated what he did for Dior and Saint Laurent. Instead of taking the Yves away, he went for the accent aigu. Instead of applying his aesthetics to the French Maison in a new creative way, he just did copy and paste. Boring.

Copy and paste

To be honest, for LVMH it would have been the smartest move to give Hedi Slimane his own label.

ABOUT CÉLINE

Céline was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard, as one of the first luxury brands in the industry to make a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. The couple opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris. The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.

Céline Vipiana

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach. Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes. The trench became the iconic product of the house. In 1973, Céline, who remained at the helmet until 1997, redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians. At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.


In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital. However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million). LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.
American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997. During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit. In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand. In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo’s Céline changed your wardrobe (even if you didn’t realise it)…  she managed to predict what you want six months before you know you do.

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women’s Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline. Her tenure began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for S/S 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision. Philo brought a new touch to the brand creating functional clothes with a focus on materials and tailoring. In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”. Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé. In 2010, she received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

We all wanted it! Céline’s Boston bag – first seen on the S/S 2010 runway.

In December 2017, following increasing rumors in the press, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the F/W 2018 collection, which is to presented in March of that same year. Thanking her team, Phoebe Philo stated “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations…it’s been amazing.”

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand’s offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Great news for me, I can dress next summer in my former Saint Laurent pieces and will look like wearing new Celine. Money saved for other things…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Céline, © Sandra Bauknecht

Tara Zadeh

For Tara Ghazanfar dreams of quitting her day job became a reality in 2016 when the London-based, US-born designer launched her handbag line, Tara Zadeh – named, in part, for her mother’s maiden name. ‘Zadeh’ is a Persian suffix meaning ‘born of’ – a fitting label for the realisation of Tara’s long-imagined dream.

Her bags reflect her Iranian heritage – the geometric shapes and vibrant mosaics in the palaces and mosques of Tehran and Shiraz influence each collection. After her first designs were loved by friends and family, Ghazanfar began bringing her creations to life, using a factory in the small town of Ubrique, Spain to produce the handmade leather and brass accessories.

Before launching her brand, she graduated from Parsons the New School with a degree in graphic design, and worked as Art Director of The Gentleman’s Journal, a London based luxury magazine for men. She spent years sketching designs based on pieces gathered from souks and markets around the world.

Her signature piece, the Azar clutch, is easily recognisable thanks to its round silhouette and geometric brass fixtures and has certainly awakened our desire being featured all over Instagram.

TO SHOP TARA ZADEH ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Net-à-Porter, Browns, Tara Zadeh
@tarazadeh
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