Sandra‘s Closet

A Return to Time: Notes from Watches and Wonders Geneva

There are few places where time feels as tangible as at Watches and Wonders Geneva. For one day, everything revolves around it, interpreted through craftsmanship, design, and an almost obsessive attention to detail.

This year, the fair revealed more than technical innovation. It signaled a shift in mood, subtle, but unmistakable.

Patek Philippe New Models 2026

BVLGARI celebrates old-school glamour with its newest Serpenti watches.

There is a clear return to old-school glamour and with it, a strong retro influence. Not nostalgia in its simplest form, but a deliberate reinterpretation of the past. Vintage codes are everywhere: softened silhouettes, intricate bracelets, and, most notably, the reappearance of the secret watch.

These pieces conceal their dials beneath decorative covers, blurring the line between jewelry and timekeeping. They are intimate, almost private objects, designed to be discovered rather than displayed. It is a language that echoes the elegance of earlier decades, yet feels entirely contemporary in its execution.

At the same time, craftsmanship is moving back to the center of the conversation. Not just as a technical necessity, but as a form of artistic expression. The level of detail, the patience, and the human touch behind these pieces feels more important than ever.

One example that stayed with me came from CHANEL. A chess set, already sold and therefore no longer on display in its final form, was presented through prototypes. Each figure was meticulously crafted, with the Gabrielle Chanel silhouette wearing a tweed jacket, entirely set with diamonds, that emphasized the effect of the material. It was less an object and more a demonstration of what true craftsmanship can achieve: intricate, precise, and deeply intentional.

Audemars Piguet Etablisseurs Galets

At the same time, a structural shift within the industry is becoming increasingly visible. The market is stretching apart.

Van Cleef & Arpels is expanding its Jour Nuit collection with a new timepiece in honor of the Moon. Within the Midnight case, the watch features two overlapping complications: the first one animates the Jour/Nuit display, while the second one illustrates the actual Moon phase. 

BVLGARI

On one end, brands are leaning heavily into haute horlogerie, producing exceptional, highly complicated, and often extremely limited pieces. These watches are not simply products; they are statements of craftsmanship, created for collectors who value rarity as much as technical mastery. Prices reflect this shift, reaching levels that position these timepieces firmly within the realm of art and investment.

Celebrating 100 years of the Rolex Oyster with this beautiful and affordable Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 «Jubilee Edition».

On the other end, the more accessible segment remains present, but quieter, almost overshadowed by the spectacle of high-end innovation. The middle ground is thinning, and the contrast between the two extremes is becoming more pronounced.

A Testament to Métiers d’Art: Van Cleef & Arpels, with its latest Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés collection, is capturing the ruby-red intensity of perfectly ripened raspberries.

Yet within this high-end focus, creativity is flourishing. Freed from the need to appeal to a broad audience, brands are allowing themselves to be more expressive, more daring, and more niche. Watchmaking, in this sense, is becoming increasingly cultural. These are no longer just instruments or even luxury goods, they are narratives, identities, and statements.

Collectors today are not simply buying watches; they are engaging with meaning.

Walking through the fair, it quickly becomes clear that the experience goes far beyond the watches themselves. Some booths are consistently extraordinary, fully immersive environments that tell their own story. Officine Panerai, known for its diving heritage, brought that world to life with a stand that felt like stepping into the depths.

Van Cleef & Arpels created something entirely different, a poetic garden, complete with a swing, where time seemed to slow down.

And Audemars Piguet offered a more introspective atmosphere, with a library-like setting that invited you to pause, reflect, and look closer.

I leaned into the spirit of the fair with a Moschino look, complete with a watch-shaped bag and a hat featuring a clock detail. A subtle nod to the theme of time, and one that, quite unexpectedly, drew a lot of attention throughout the day. I was frequently stopped, photographed, and even interviewed, an unusual but fitting part of the experience.

Yves Piaget with me (click here for a previous post from 2012).

Amidst all of this, it is often the quieter, more personal moments that stay the longest. Seeing Yves Piaget again was one of them. Having been for many years an ambassador for Piaget, it made the encounter feel all the more meaningful.

Relaunch of the Piaget cocktail ring collection, for which I hosted an private garden party in my house in 2013.

There was something genuinely special in being recognized, in that brief moment of familiarity within such a fast-moving environment. A small exchange, a shared memory, and somehow, it stays. I still have the Piaget rose.

Ulysse Nardin

And perhaps that is what defines the fair as much as the watches themselves. It is not just an industry event, it is a cultural moment, where craftsmanship meets storytelling, and where timepieces become part of a larger narrative.

I predict a huge success for the BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Watch in satin-polished 18 kt yellow gold case.

What remains after a full day is not simply a memory of products, but a clear impression:

The future of watchmaking may well lie in its past.

In craftsmanship over scale.
In rarity over ubiquity.
In intimacy over display.

And in the enduring desire to make time feel, once again, timeless.

Trying on Cartier‘s latest Bagnoire collection, that I am completely obsessed about.

Some of the most remarkable pieces deserve a closer look, and I’ll be returning to a few of them in more detail over the coming weeks.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
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When Time Meets McDreamy: A TAG Heuer Moment in Geneva

Surrounded by some of the most extraordinary watches in the world… and yet, meeting McDreamy might have been the real highlight.

At Watches & Wonders in Geneva, where every brand competes to redefine time through design and innovation, it’s easy to get lost in the details, movements, materials, complications.

But some moments cut through all of that.

Meeting Patrick Dempsey, forever McDreamy from Grey’s Anatomy, was exactly that kind of moment. Effortless, charismatic, and completely at ease, he represents the spirit of TAG Heuer in a way that feels natural rather than staged.

And fittingly, the brand itself delivered one of the most compelling statements of this year’s fair. In a year dedicated to the chronograph, TAG Heuer revisited its most iconic model: the Monaco.

The new Monaco Evergraph feels bold and forward-looking, built around a completely reimagined movement that replaces traditional components with flexible structures, pushing precision and performance into new territory. It’s technical, architectural, almost futuristic. Co-developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, it brings a distinctly experimental edge to contemporary watchmaking.

Operating at 5 Hz with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification, it reflects a clear focus on precision and long-term reliability. Co-developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the movement adds a layer of serious watchmaking credibility to its experimental edge, while the open-worked architecture reinforces its technical character.

Alongside it, the Monaco Chronograph takes a more restrained approach. Rooted in the original 1969 design, it refines the icon with sharper lines and improved ergonomics, now housed in a 39mm Grade 5 titanium case that feels both modern and wearable. Inside, the in-house Calibre TH20-11 delivers an 80-hour power reserve and a bi-compax layout inspired by the historic Calibre 11, while signature elements like the left-side crown remain intact.

Together, they capture what TAG Heuer does best: balancing heritage with innovation, without ever losing its identity.

And maybe that’s what made the moment with Dempsey feel so aligned. In a space defined by exceptional watches, it was presence, not just precision, that made it memorable.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
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While you are reading this, I am at Watches & Wonders in Geneva and cannot wait to share all the amazing news with you concerning the newest watch launches. Let the get started with these beauties by CARTIER.

THE BAIGNOIRE WATCH MEETS THE CLOU DE PARIS

Through a jeweller’s eye, Cartier watchmakers have created an aesthetic enhanced by the emblematic Clou de Paris motif. This innovative adventure has allowed Cartier to push its creative boundaries through an unprecedented expression of its expertise. First appearing in 1958 and officially taking its name in 1973, the Baignoire watch has been defined by constant evolution but has always remained true to its original identity. In 2023, Cartier designed an unprecedented new edition with a bangle bracelet. Featuring the signature curves, the Cartier logo, and a winding crown adorned with a sapphire, the Baignoire codes are there for all to see. This new, original design makes for an emblematic oval-shaped jewellery watch and reflects the singularity of the Maison, which is always looking at creations through its jeweller’s eye.

A NEW EDITION OF THE BAIGNOIRE, INSPIRED BY CARTIER’S JEWELLERY HERITAGE

This year, the Maison is reinterpreting the Baignoire bangle model by adorning it with the Clou de Paris motif. Already part of the Maison’s stylistic repertoire by the start of the 1920s, the Clou de Paris has been a constant on Cartier creations, as demonstrated by the latest Baignoire Allongée watches and the Clash de Cartier collection. The creation of this motif represents specific craftsmanship enabling gold to be moulded while preserving the evenness of its shape and volume.

ADJUSTING THE OVAL SHAPE FOR THE CLOU DE PARIS MOTIF

From the bangle bracelet to the case and dial, the watch is now entirely adorned with the Clou de Paris motif. This sensorial motif adds rhythm and structure, magnifies volumes and creates a truly architectural geometry aesthetic, making for a playfully tactile surface. It’s crafted in monochrome gold to ensure seamless continuity between the bracelet and the dial. The proportions have been adjusted and reshaped to ensure that the motif fits the curves as closely as possible. Attention to detail can be seen in elements as intricate as the yellow gold push-buttons on the clasp, which blend into the curve of the bracelet.

THE COUP D’ÉCLAT

Cartier master jewellers give the piece all its lustre during the polishing phase. Carried out entirely by hand, this finishing stage requires the utmost precision in order to respect, and enhance, the relief and definition of the Clou de Paris motif.

AN ULTRA-PRECIOUS EDITION

Now more dazzling than ever, Cartier’s new diamond design on this edition represents a true technical feat of gemsetting. With its 100 brilliant-cut diamonds, the snow setting on the dial creates a changing play of light. On the case, Cartier has opted for an inverted setting for diamonds with a slightly less pronounced tip. Throughout the piece, the diamonds and the Clou de Paris motif create a harmony of volumes in relief. This is a watch that breaks the rules and captivates the imagination.

I am in love. And you?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Cartier
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Louis Vuitton unveils a new Horological Masterpiece: an Automata Watch that transcends time and imagination and that made me fall in love with it.

La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton shatters the codes of conventional watchmaking aesthetics with its latest in-house exploration of colour and movement. The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata embarks on new adventures through contemporary high watchmaking, in nimble pursuit of the unique rhapsodies of horological automata and grand feu enamel. Taking inspiration from the House’s numerous artist collaborations, the audacious dial design is characterised by the vibrant interplay of shape and form, evoking the springtime in all its sensorial splendor.

Since 2021, the finely honed use of horological automata has distinguished the exceptional high watchmaking creations of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Unmatched as a mechanical means of expression, horological automata have featured in milestone pieces such as the Carpe Diem and the Fiery Heart to amplify their inherent dynamism and technical mastery. The new Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest timepiece to channel Louis Vuitton’s in-house expertise in complex animated dials, conveying a message of unrestrained delight and shared joy through generous volumes of brightly hued champlevé enamel. Driving the watch is the automatic in-house Calibre LFT AU05.01, developed and manufactured by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. A total of seven animated elements make up the dial automata, creating an expertly orchestrated mechanical dance, in addition to the continuous rotation of a one-minute tourbillon.

Within the confines of its 42mm white-gold case, the Tambour Taiko Arty Automata runs riot with colour and movement. A multi-tiered dial comprises 20 miniature elements spread over four different height levels, giving the watch its extraordinary richness of texture and dimension. On this artisanal canvas, luscious swirls of pastel shades create a subtle backdrop, while the hours and minutes stand out against a subdial tinted with the warmer end of the spectrum. Four Monogram Flowers with diamond pistils are scattered around the time display, gradient-blended and outlined in a palette reminiscent of 1970s-era sunburst tie-dye.

A flying tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position of the dial balances its ceaseless motion by introducing an emblem of harmony and repose. The upper tourbillon bridge is in the shape of the peace symbol, first designed in 1958 and subsequently adopted as visual shorthand for universal love. The word «LOVE» is prominently spelled out in pink enamel just above the tourbillon aperture, the fluid form of its letters evoking the spontaneity and authenticity of human emotion in the moment.

Most striking of all are the three elements to the left of the dial and their depth of detail, an eye with a dramatic fringe of lashes made from real feathers, a pair of glossy red lips with perfectly white teeth, and wedged between those teeth, a shiny candy-pink heart.

The ultra-sensorial design does not end with a static tableau, as multi-layered and visually captivating as it already is. It takes a single touch of its wearer to bring the Tambour Taiko Arty Automata to life.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata highlights exceptional hand craftsmanship, combining multiple artisanal techniques, most notably the complex champlevé enamel process.

This technique requires hollowing out surfaces, carefully layering enamel, and firing each color at specific temperatures in a precise sequence. Particularly challenging are the vivid red, pink, and purple tones, which are highly sensitive to heat. Creating elements like the glossy, curved lips on the dial demands multiple enamel layers and great expertise.

In total, the dial uses 23 enamel shades and requires over 250 hours of meticulous manual work, reflecting the rarity and technical mastery behind the piece.

Male model’s wrist size: 18cm/7.09 in
Female model’s wrist size: 15cm/5.91 in

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Arty Automata carries the reference W9WG71 and is offered as a limited edition through Louis Vuitton boutiques. The 42 mm white gold case is water-resistant up to 50 meters. The price is approximately $ 485,000, which corresponds to around € 420,000, depending on the market.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton Still life visuals: Ulysse Frechelin Know-how visuals: Piotr Stoklosa
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Louis Vuitton Camionnette: A Timeless Object of Imagination

Louis Vuitton reimagines its historic delivery truck as an extraordinary horological sculpture, blending heritage, craftsmanship, and playful imagination. Inspired by early 20th-century vehicles that once transported iconic trunks from the Asnières workshop, this miniature «Camionnette» transforms a symbol of travel into a mechanical work of art.

Created by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in collaboration with L’Epée 1839, the piece features a Swiss-made movement with 218 components and an impressive 8-day power reserve. Time is displayed through rotating cylinders hidden beneath the hood, while the balance wheel is visible inside the cabin -merging automotive design with watchmaking ingenuity.

Every detail celebrates the House’s DNA, from Monogram motifs and historic addresses to a miniature trunk containing the key used to wind and set the clock. A highly exclusive jeweled edition, limited to 15 pieces, elevates the creation further with diamonds, sapphires, and intricate hand-guilloché craftsmanship.

More than a timepiece, the Louis Vuitton Camionnette is a poetic tribute to the Art of Travel, where past and present meet in a collectible object that captures both motion and memory.

Louis Vuitton Camionnette: CHF 57500 for the regular edition, price on request for the limited edition.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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I am delighted to present Eclettica, Bvlgari’s latest High Jewelry and High-End Watches collection, unveiled this year in Milano as a bold expression of creativity, imagination and craftsmanship.

Eclettica, derived from the Italian word for «eclectic,» embodies Bvlgari’s philosophy of embracing contrasts, combining diverse inspirations and blending audacity with elegance. It represents a fearless approach to beauty, where artistic intuition guides technical mastery and imagination transcends traditional boundaries.

The collection brings together over 50 multimillion creations, including 14 transformable pieces, the highest number ever presented by the Maison and is crowned by nine exceptional High Jewelry «Capolavori» – masterpieces crafted from the world’s rarest gems with extraordinary skill and passion.

Rooted in Rome’s rich artistic heritage, Eclettica draws inspiration from sculpture, painting and architecture, transforming these disciplines into a creative playground. Designers and artisans explore form, color, light and structure to create pieces that are both technically extraordinary and emotionally expressive. Each work becomes wearable art, a dialogue between imagination and expertise where innovation and elegance coexist naturally.

Since its founding in 1884, Bvlgari has embraced eclecticism as a method rather than a style, turning contrasts into harmony and daring ideas into enduring beauty. Eclettica elevates this vision, offering High Jewelry and High-End Watches as a celebration of artistic freedom, visionary design and the Maison’s enduring pursuit of excellence.

Those pieces are true art. Let’s start dreaming …

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © BVLGARI
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The Louis Vuitton Escales Autour du Monde collection continues to be inspired by the world’s most evocative destinations – and now travels to the land of the rising sun with the Escale au Mont Fuji.

After discovering the Amazon rainforest and Paris the next stop on the Escales Autour du Monde pocket watch collection is the Far East, and one of the world’s most breathtaking landmarks.
The Escale au Mont Fuji pocket watch is an ode to Japan, where the sun rises behind the famed Mount Fuji, illuminating the sky in a gorgeous pastel palette that evokes a peaceful spring dawn. This scene is celebrated through the pocket watch’s Jacquemart mechanism, minute repeater, and tourbillon, alongside the most exceptional Métiers d’Art.

Like all the one-off haute horlogerie masterpieces in the Escales Autour du Monde collection, this latest novelty was imagined and crafted at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Based in Geneva, the facility’s in-house La Fabrique des Boîtiers (case making), La Fabrique des Mouvements (movement components making) and La Fabrique des Arts (dial making and Métiers d’Art) all united to create this one-of-a-kind, haute horlogerie masterpiece.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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True to its original «square within a rectangle» outlines, the HERMÈS Cape Cod watch redefines the contours of an iconic design.

Born of Henri d’Origny’s bold pencil strokes and inspired by the anchor-chain link, the Cape Cod watch appears in revised proportions vividly showcasing its personality. Endowed with the same graphic typology, visual language and timeless sassiness, the new Cape Cod features all the architectural vocabulary of its 1991 predecessor, reinterpreted with exquisite finesse in a «mini» version.

Appearing in a 27 x 20 mm format that accentautes the curve of its case and its finishes, sometimes smooth and at others shiny, gem-set or polished, this watch with its iconic link is available in steel or yellow gold. The argenté, étoupe or ardoise dials lend their understated elegance to the steel case, while the yellow gold version glows with a doré or Rouge H hue. Crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops, a single or double tour strap in Swift calfskin or Chamkilight goatskin highlights the subtle nuances of each individual dial.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès
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SWATCH x GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

Pulsing with the creativity of legendary artists, the Swatch x Guggenheim Collection brings art to everyday life. Discover the four masterpieces captured as vibrant art-inspired watches and turn time into a captivating art journey.

MONET’S PALAZZO DUCALE
Inspired by Claude Monet’s The Palazzo Ducale, Seen from San Giorgio Maggiore (1908), this watch features Venice’s iconic palace on the dial. When exposed to UV light, the dial glows vibrant orange, evoking the city’s radiant beauty.

Monet’s The Palazzo Ducale CHF 100 – Monet’s The Palazzo Ducale Pay CHF 110

KLEE’S BAVARIAN DON GIOVANNI
Paul Klee’s whimsical geometry and symbolic forms from The Bavarian Don Giovanni (1919) are playfully displayed on this timepiece. A special calendar wheel changes color daily reflecting the artist’s ever-changing inspirations.

Klee’s Bavarian Don Giovanni CHF 90

POLLOCK’S ALCHEMY
Pollock’s revolutionary poured technique from Alchemy (1947) is captured in details printed across this watch’s dial and strap. A raw expression of freedom, it reflects the artist’s bold, avant-garde spirit.

Pollock’s Alchemy CHF 100

DEGAS’S DANCERS
A tribute to Edgar Degas’s masterpiece Dancers in Green and Yellow (1903), this art-inspired timepiece echoes the artist’s focus on the ballet dancers’ body language. Luminous hues infuse the watch with a sense of fluid motion.

Degas’s Dancers CHF 90

Swatch was a true collector’s icon when I was young, and I still own many of those pieces today. Seeing collaborations like the Guggenheim collection makes me believe the next Swatch revival is already on its way.

The Swatch x Guggenheim Collection is now available online and in Swatch stores worldwide.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Swatch
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise! Four masters. One collection. Paul Klee, The Bavarian Don Giovanni, 1919. © 2025 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York ​- Jackson Pollock, Alchemy, 1947. © Pollock-Krasner Foundation / 2024, ProLitteris, Zurich​ – Edgar Degas, Dancers in Green and Yellow, ca. 1903​ – Claude Monet, The Palazzo Ducale, Seen from San Giorgio Maggiore, 1908​

Hublot and legendary brand Yohji Yamamoto unite once again to redefine the art of black. For the fourth time since their first collaboration in 2020, they elevate black from a color to the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo. A limited edition of 300 pieces where every texture and contrast are intentional. Matte black ceramic sculpts the 42mm case into light and depth, a monochrome camouflage pattern adds rhythm and motion while fabric and rubber fuse seamlessly on the strap.

This collaboration is more than fashion or watchmaking. It’s about vision. About how far you can strip something down to its essence. Both Hublot and Yohji Yamamoto have built their legacies on the same foundation: questioning the meaning of luxury. Both create through deconstruction. Hublot first broke Swiss tradition in 1980 with its Art of Fusion, blending gold with rubber, innovation with heritage. Since its debut at the Paris Fashion Week in 1981, Yohji Yamamoto redefined the conventions of fashion, using black as a response against excess and fashion’s norms.

For both creators, black is not absence, it is essence. Hublot pioneered the All Black concept in 2006, where light is defined by volume and texture, beyond its color. When Yohji Yamamoto first presented the collection in Paris in 1981, the black silhouettes were seen as revolutionary, an anti-fashion statement that freed creation from decoration. At Hublot, black is sculpted through material: matte ceramics, smoked sapphire, surfaces that play with shadow. For Yohji Yamamoto, black is woven through fabric: wool, silk, cotton layered to breathe and shift. Both treat black as visible and invisible.

Camouflage, reimagined in Yohji Yamamoto’s language, becomes a study in movement and material. On the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo, the pattern appears as monochrome relief, black on black, dynamic under changing light.

« Black is modest and arrogant at the same time » affirmed Yohji Yamamoto.

The 42mm matte black ceramic case absorbs light and sculpts shadow. The black-on-black camouflage dial shifts subtly with movement, alive with contrast. The smoked sapphire caseback unveils the MHUB1110 Hublot automatic calibre and its skeletonized rotor while preserving a monochrome mystery. The strap, crafted from fabric and rubber, echoes the Japanese designer’s tactile couture and Hublot’s technical precision. The signature of Yohji Yamamoto is incorporated into the design of each of the 300 custom All Black boxes.

The new Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo is available at a selection of Hublot points of sale and online at hublot.com.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hublot 
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