Les Exclusifs de CHANEL 1957

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL

Is it a year? An address? Two numbers combined? 1957 is all those things as well as the link between CHANEL and the United States.
A continent enamored with Gabrielle Chanel, captivated by her creations since her debut in 1912 and then by the personality of a free and independent woman who owed her success to no one other than herself. The fascination was mutual: Mademoiselle Chanel was drawn to America by her family’s past and dreams of her beloved father who set sail for the New World. Her desire to also live this dream and achieve lasting fame became a reality: «I admire and love America,» she confided to Paul Morand, «it’s where I made my fortune» (1). And it is also where she was hailed as the most influential designer of the 20th century in 1957.

Taking in Texas: Chanel and Marcus during the Marcus Western party outside Dallas on September 7th 1957 (this trip inspired Lagerfeld later for the Paris – Dallas Metiers d’Art show).

I ADMIRE AND LOVE AMERICA

The love story between CHANEL and America began with fashion. The young milliner’s hats were distributed in New York department stores, and the press raved about her avant-garde style: Women’s Wear Daily predicted a great future for the famous sweaters created in Deauville from the moment they appeared in 1914 (2) and CHANEL designs flourished in the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair each season.

Coco Chanel for N°5, its first campaign as featured in Harper’s Bazaar in 1937.

And then there was fragrance, of course. France discovered the fragrance N°5 in 1921, and the Americans fell in love with it three years later in 1924, the same year the first makeup collection was launched. «Americans buy all things luxurious, and the greatest luxury is fragrance»: Gabrielle Chanel’s intuition was once again right.
In 1928, Vogue US slipped into the beauty salon of the Jay Thorpe department store and met the hostess trained in Paris by CHANEL, who, in addition to performing treatments with CHANEL skincare products, also guided women in their choice of fragrance, «one of the most difficult things in the world when you have tried three or four» (3).
In 1934, advertising campaigns for fragrances in American magazines began introducing Americans to new scents, unprecedented in their conception – N°5 was the first luxury fragrance to use aldehydes – and revolutionary by their rich and floral olfactory composition.

Illustrator unknown, via Vogue, October 1926

The name CHANEL was on all lips, and its style worn by all women. The iconic little black dress was celebrated by Vogue US in October 1926. By referring to the Chanel design as the «Ford dress», in reference to the Ford T automobile which had been a best-seller since 1908, the magazine ushered the little black dress into fashion history. On Broadway, actresses Katharine Cornell and Gertrude Lawrence took to the stage dressed in CHANEL. Hollywood also clamored for Gabrielle Chanel, who travelled to Los Angeles at the request of Samuel Goldwyn in 1931 to dress the actresses of MGM Studies, including Gloria Swanson, who became one of her friends.

Coco Chanel during a working visit to Los Angeles, in 1931.
Photo: © 1931 Los Angeles Times; Digital Colorization by Lee Ruelle / via Vanity Fair.

Delighted to finally discover the United States, the creator first stopped in New York with Misia Sert, where she was welcomed with great pomp. And, on their way back from California, the two friends visited Chicago and San Francisco before returning to New York. The trip lasted one month, and the American press took advantage of the opportunity to try to uncover the secrets of Gabrielle Chanel, the unstoppable businesswoman ahead of her time. From the New York Times to the New York Herald Tribune, not to mention The New Yorker, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, Coco was everywhere and gave countless interviews from her suite at the Pierre Hotel. Each one of her outfits was observed in detail, her pearl necklaces and style drawing much admiration. From then on, in America, CHANEL incarnated French elegance and was synonymous with the fashion to be followed at all costs. At the end of her trip, an article in the June 1931 issue of Vanity Fair praised the designer in their “«We nominate for the Hall of Fame» feature: «Gabrielle Chanel was the first to apply the principles of modernism to dressmaking; because she numbers among her friends the most famous men of France; because she combines a shrewd business sense with enormous personal prodigality and a genuine enthusiasm for arts; and finally because she came to America to make a laudable attempt to introduce chic to Hollywood». The 1939 New York World Fair only confirmed the infatuation: the CHANEL showcases, in crystal and with sculpted heads, presenting objects and accessories that evoked the personality of Mademoiselle Chanel, were among the most admired by 44 million visitors.

CHANEL at Flushing Meadows-Corona Park for the New York World’s Fair. (1939)

Although she travelled to the United States with her friends or photographers like Horst P. Horst, Gabrielle Chanel made her big comeback in 1957. Three years earlier, Mademoiselle Chanel had returned to the world of fashion with a collection that ran totally counter to the style of the time. While Paris gave her the cold shoulder, America heaped her with even more praise. Life magazine gave her an ovation: «At 71, Gabrielle Chanel is creating more than fashion: a revolution» (4). Truman Capote himself referred to her as a «fashion visionary». But how could the land where anything was possible forget when in 1952 Marilyn Monroe made N°5 immortal by declaring she wore nothing but a few drops of the fragrance to bed?

Marilyn Monroe and her Chanel N°5 in 1952

THE MOST INFLUENTIAL DESIGNER OF THE 20TH CENTURY

And so 1957. That year, Stanley Marcus organized the first Neiman Marcus Fortnight in Dallas to celebrate the department store’s fiftieth anniversary. Three hundred fashion designers were invited, but only one was welcomed like a star: after arriving by the first foreign aircraft ever to land at the Dallas Love Field airport, Gabrielle Chanel climbed into the only white Rolls Royce in the procession, exclusively reserved for her. Her destination ? The podium on which she was to receive the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion, thereby declaring her the most influential designer of the 20th century. At her side was Suzy Parker, the first true top model in fashion history. In 1959, the beautiful American star became the face of N°5 featured in a campaign by Richard Avedon, followed by actresses Candice Bergen and Ali McGraw, in 1965 and 1966.

Coco Chanel and Suzy Parker, 1962

The love affair between CHANEL and America grew even stronger through the art world: in 1959, the New York Museum of Modern Art exhibited the packaging of the fragrance bottle as an example of minimalist elegance, which was later reinterpreted by Andy Warhol. The Broadway musical Coco paid tribute to Gabrielle Chanel in 1969 with a run of 300 performances starring Katharine Hepburn in the role of the designer.

«Coco» was Katherine Hepburn’s only musical on Broadway (1969).

A unique, bold and passionate rebel at heart who let nothing stand in her way, an independent, hardworking woman driven by an innate desire for success, Gabrielle Chanel became America’s adopted daughter. A daughter to whom the country paid homage on January 10, 1971: having followed and championed her from the start, the New York Times devoted three front-page columns to her «incalculable» influence on fashion and its evolution (5). Still today, history has proven her right.

The pearl sculpture, designed by Jean-Michel Othoniel, extends down a central staircase within the newly opened CHANEL store on 57th street in New York City. 

A SKIN SCENT

Alongside the reopening of the New York boutique on 57th street, CHANEL is celebrating 1957 with a new eau de parfum in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection. 1957: the year of Gabrielle Chanel’s consecration in America, but also 19, like the day of her birth, and 57, like the street number of the biggest CHANEL store in the United States. A creation that builds an olfactory bridge between France and America, joined by that iconic style. A timeless style, the CHANEL style.

«Her special style is compounded from three ingredients: girlishness, comfort, and a generous helping of pearls. In a country where emphasis is on youth and free and easy living, her designs were bound to succeed». With this definition of the CHANEL allure, the New York Times said it all (6). A modern, avant-garde style that gave women freedom to move. An eternally young and modern allure that broke with the codes of the time and shifted the conventions of chic. An art of living with a simplicity that hides a painstakingly crafted complexity, steeped with a luxury that has no need to flaunt or justify itself.

The third LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL creation composed by perfumer-creator Olivier Polge, in cooperation with the CHANEL Laboratory of Fragrance Creation and Development, 1957 illustrates the mystery of the deceptively simple CHANEL style. A balance of creamy softness, enveloping comfort, and light perfused with discreet power. A fragrance one adopts like a clean skin scent that becomes unique and deeply personal on each wearer. «For each fragrance in the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL collection, we explore a path we have never taken», explains Olivier Polge. «This time, I opted to work with musk, more specifically white musks. Their whiteness hides a great complexity: enveloping, they emit a more or less pronounced light, and vary in their soft and sensual effects. 1957 is a skin scent that, more than others, is revealed fully on the unique chemistry of each person’s skin».

A BALANCE OF CREAMY SOFTNESS, ENVELOPING COMFORT, AND LIGHT PERFUSED WITH DISCREET POWER

An assembly of eight white musks, 1957 is structured like a layered composition of transparent, translucent and opaque veils. An immaculate superposition, comfortable and enveloping, soft, almost cushion-like. One can imagine one of Gabrielle Chanel’s beloved pearls, its delicate contours rendered imperceptible by the changing reflections: the matte whiteness of certain musks blends into the iridescent pearl of others. In this interplay of depths, woody, honeyed, spicy and floral vibrations create a luminous, powerful and sensual prominence. Vanilla and honey notes thus slip into the white musks, some with a hint of cedar, others with pink pepper, coriander seed or orange blossom. The faux simplicity of whiteness is revealed and magnified… The precision of an expertly crafted and yet abstract trail, free to enhance the skin by diffusing a distinctive and singular scent.

Coco Chanel presenting her collection in 1957, the year of her comeback.

«1957 also conjures up a certain idea of America», according to Olivier Polge. «An idea that the country has of fragrance and particularly with respect to CHANEL and N°5, which has become a model of olfactory inspiration, even for hairsprays and soaps. But also a concept that the United States introduced: what is referred to as a «sent-bon», (7) a word that speaks to me especially because it was so dear to Gabrielle Chanel. 1957 is a link: it reinterprets American perfumery with the idea the USA has had about French fragrance since N°5 paved the way». The essence of CHANEL is reunited in its trail, filled with comfort and natural elegance, a presence within a chic, refined, personal and unforgettable discretion.

1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 75 ml CHF 230.-
1957 Eau de Parfum Vaporisateur 200 ml CHF 410.-

LoL, Sandra

Photos if not stated otherwise: © CHANEL

(1) Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, ed. Hermann, 1996, p.183.
(2) WWD, July 27, 1914.
(3) Vogue US, September 29, 1928.
(4) Justine Picardie, CHANEL sa vie, Steidl, 2010, p.330.
(5) The New York Times, January 11, 1971.
(6) Linda Simon, Coco Chanel, Reaktion books, Critical Lives collection, London, 2011 p.157.
(7) A pleasant smell.

A Perfumed Poem for Valentine’s Day

«Love is when the other person’s happiness is more important than your own
H. Jackson Brown Jr.

On February 14, we celebrate the life of Saint Valentine of Rome, who was actually incredibly unlucky and ended up being beheaded. Today it is a celebration of all things romantic, mostly for lovers. But why not thank a dear friend for their friendship or their trust in you. Actions speak louder than words. Personally speaking, I love the written word and the act of taking a beautiful pen to actually write a heartfelt message, is a meaningful sign, something that stays. If you add a spritz of fragrance, it will evoke all senses.

This amazing fragrance by SHALINI «Amorem Rose» is guaranteed to add a serious dose of sex appeal to your Valentine’s Day. Inspired by love, it is the most opulent rose perfume, although different by adding an element of smoke. Besides, it centers around Bulgarian Damask rose, Saffron flowers, Baltic amber and Mahogany wood.

Created by Maurice Roucel, who designed one of my favorite scents Musk Ravageur, SHALINI says in her own words, «it’s a perfumed poem dedicated to the greatest love stories. The Rose has the highest love energy of all the flowers, often referred to as the Queen of Flowers, the symbol of the divine feminine love. The smoke brings a sense of mystery and intrigue reminiscent of a great love… the love that touches your soul deeply and alters your very being

Amorem Rose by SHALINI is available at Spitzenhaus in Zurich.

My personal note to SHALINI KUMAR, a former Indian actress, was written with CARAN D’ACHE‘s Ecridor Doré Rose ballpoint pen that is adorned with a new brilliant rose-gilded finish.

Happy Galentine’s Day – to all my girlfriends around the world!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Jo Malone Vitamin E Travel Kit

Getaways are good for the soul – and with JO MALONE‘s Vitamin E Travel Kit in tow, they’re also good for your skin. Soften, soothe and help protect with four cult classics: the revitalising Body Treatment Scrub (30ml), the nourishing Body Balm (30ml), the hydrating Hand Treatment (30ml) and the Restorative Gel (3ml). All just the right size for taking with you, wherever you go.


Vitamin E Travel Kit CHF 79.-

Available for a limited time only. In Switzerland at Jelmoli Zurich, Globus Zurich, Globus Glatt, Globus Bellevue, Globus Lucerne, Globus Geneva, Globus Lausanne and Hyazinth in Basel.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of @JoMaloneLondon #TimeForMe

Meet Your New Crush

Ready to meet your new crush?
Make the first swipe with Bobbi Brown’s NEW Crushed Liquid Lip.

The look of a liquid lipstick meets the comfortable feel of a balm and the plumped-up sheen of a gloss. Created with a superfruit blend featuring cranberry, blueberry and raspberry extracts, this emollient-rich, full-coverage formula glides on with pure color pigments and offers nourishing comfort and moisture—both instantly and over time.

Available in 14 shades from now: Smoothie Move – Hippy Shake – Lychee Baby – Peach & Quiet – Give a Fig – Juicy Date – Haute Cocoa – Main Squeeze – Cherry Crush – Cool Beets – Mango Mood – Big Apple Bitter Sweet – In a Jam

Crushed Liquid Lip CHF 32.00 each.

My advice is to double the crush! Use the new Crushed Liquid Lip together with Bobbi’s Crushed Lip Colour. Two irresistible formulas to fall for – because one Crushed Lip is never enough…

Great for testing: Mini Crushed Lip Color Kit.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bobbi Brown
#CrushedLiquidLip #BobbiBrownCH #Agency_Q

Dolce & Gabbana – The Only One 2

The second chapter of The Only One story. As though enveloped in a sensual red veil, The Only One 2 builds on the floriental legacy of The Only One line with an intoxicating new scent, suffused with fruity red notes. The Only One’s iconic signature of coffee and violet is reimagined with powdery red roses, the symbol of love and seduction.

Top Notes: Red Berries, Pear and Freesia
Middle Notes: Red Rose Superessence, Violet and Coffee
Base Notes: Tonka Bean and Patchouli

Sparkling like the gems adorning Dolce&Gabbana’s Alta Gioielleria collections, the flacon is reinvented with the hue and lustre of a faceted ruby. The bottle recalls the same iconic color of love and desire as the red ingredients of the fragrance within.

In the colorful campaign shot by the Morelli Brothers in an original trattoria in Trastevere in Rome, British actress Emilia Clarke embodies a modern, empowered woman.

CHF 81.00 (30ml), CHF 115.20 (50ml) and CHF 160.00 (100ml). Available in March 2019.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dolce & Gabbana
#DGBeauty #DGTheOnlyOne #DGTheOnlyOne2 #DGTheOne
Follow @DGBeauty

OPI Tokyo Spring 2019 Collection

Tokyo is one of the top trendsetting cities in the world, so it should come as no surprise that OPI has selected the vibrant metropolis as its inspiration for the OPI Tokyo Spring 2019 Collection.

Inspired by the city’s balance of rich tradition and nature with fashion-forward style and ultra-modern cityscapes, this palette features a variety of colors that evoke the energy and creativity of Tokyo. The collection features 12 new shades in classic Nail Lacquer, Long-Wear Infinite Shine and GelColor formulas. With a nod to Tokyo’s status as a trendsetter, the collection includes a new take on millennial pink with dusty rose shades featuring tones of lavender and lilac (Rice Rice Baby, Another Ramen-tic Evening, Arigato from Tokyo, Hurry-juku Get this Color!).

Rich hues inspired by nature from matcha green tea to blooming gardens (How Does Your Zen Garden Grow?, I’m On a Sushi Roll, Suzi-san Climbs Fuji-san, Tempura-ture is Rising!) and vibrant purple and blue hues with metallic shimmer that capture the city’s electric energy and nightlife (All Your Dreams in Vending Machines, Samurai Breaks a Nail, Kanpai OPI!, Chopstix and Stones) round out the collection.

«Tokyo is known for being on the forefront of nail trends – a perfect fit for OPI, where we don’t follow the trends but set them,» declares OPI co-founder and brand ambassador, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. «In this collection, we are revisiting the 80s and 90s, with pop colors that we’ve given a modern twist, taking inspiration from the famous Harajuku neighborhood. Tokyo brings so much life to this collection, from its eclectic fashion, vibrant nightlife and world-renowned cuisine to the rich traditions including matcha tea ceremonies and zen gardens

The collection will hit the shelves in Switzerland on February 14, 2019 and will be available for approximately 6 months.
Nail Lacquer – CHF 19.90 (15ml)
Long-Wear Infinite Shine – CHF 24.90 (15ml)

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of OPI

Pollution Skin Defence System

After two weeks in Gstaad, my skin needs an extra treat to be fit for the challenges of 2019. I am testing right now and am very happy with Susanne Kaufmann‘s ‘Pollution Skin Defence System‘, a 15-day treatment designed to protect your skin from environmental aggressors and leave you with a radiant, more youthful complexion.

It comes in a white presentation box which contains three different ampoules: Vitamin C, Ectoin and Q10. Each night you have to open one glass ampoule and apply it to your preferably wet face. I am still in the Vitamin C phase, but already feel a difference.

Vitamin C is one of the most effective antioxidants available. It’s blended with the superfruit Schisandra to help even skin tone and encourage natural detoxification.
Ectoin protects skin from environmental stressors, helping to prevent damage that can result in premature aging.
Coenzyme Q10 energizes and helps to repair on a cellular level. This serum also significantly increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture.

TO SHOP SUSANNE KAUFMANN’S POLLUTION SKIN DEFENSE SYSTEM ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
In Zurich available at Spitzenhaus and at Beauty Care.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Susanne Kaufmann, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Le Nobili Hair Mist

Every woman is unique – as is her hair. Tie it up, style it with a brush, leave it loose and wavy, then spray it all over with ACQUA DI PARMA‘s new Le Nobili Hair Mist to envelop your mane in the delicate notes of everyone’s favorite floral fragrances, leaving it featherlight and radiant to ensure you won’t go unnoticed.

The new Le Nobili Hair Mist sensory experience comes in the form of three sophisticated scents: Magnolia Nobile, Rosa Nobile and Peonia Nobile. Each fragrance is enriched with a precious conditioning agent to leave your hair beautifully soft and delicately scented.

Available from February 04, 2019 for CHF 58.00 each.

LoL, Sandra

Stills: Courtesy of Acqua di Parma

Beat the Afternoon Slump

During the winter months, I often feel super-tired once the afternoon rolls around. After powering through the morning with productivity, the wall hits me in the afternoon. Putting my head on my desk and taking a quick nap is suddenly very appealing. Nope, no such luck!

It doesn’t mean that you are sick, feeling kind of sleepy during the second part of the day is human nature. People naturally experience dips in energy levels because of circadian rhythms.

As I don’t want to drink too much caffeine (I have already lots in the morning…), I have been looking for an alternative to give me a boost of energy during an afternoon slump. The Nue Co.’s ‘Power Up’ supplementicon is a natural caffeine hit that’s blended with Brazilian Guarana Seeds – «an espresso minus the jitters,» says the brand. It’s formulated with Goji Berry to aid digestion and organic Maca for high endurance. I can truly recommend it.

TO SHOP THE NUE CO.’S ‘POWER UP’ SUPPLEMENT, CLICK HERE PLEASE.


iconABOUT THE NUE CO.

Focused on the Danish principles of simplicity and creativity, Jules Miller started wellness brand The Nue Co. after years of trying vitamins to support her lifestyle. Based in London and LA, it’s committed to creating responsibly sourced supplements using organic foods. Simply add a teaspoon to hot or cold drinks to boost your skin, energy and digestive system.

To try the brand’s other supplements, I recommend ordering the Reboot Travel Set. Different products in small sizes.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands
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M∙A∙C Carnival Limited Edition

This Carnival, feel the fervor in a full-force lineup of light-catching colour and hypnotic glitter. Layer supercharged shades of Dazzleglass over Lipstick for colour that’s completely your own, and intensify eyes in five shades of Dazzleshadow, colour-shifting Pigment, Liquidlast Linder and In Extreme Dimension Waterproof Lash. Then get euphoric with the stars of the season: five show-stopping shades of Glitter and shimmering Prep+Prime Fix+ in Goldlite.

LIPSTICK
Ruby Woo very matte vivid blue red (matte)
Hot Like Salsa bright pinkish coral (velvet matte) / Breathing Fire bright warm fuchsia (matte)
Coco-del-Rio mid-tone brown (satin) / Soleil Soleil warm nude (cremesheen)
CHF 28.00


DAZZLEGLASS
Money Honey mid-tone rosy mauve with red pearl /
Go for Gold gold / Extra Amps sheer bright blue pink with blue and pink pearl
Get Rich Quick warm yellow brown / Rags to Riches plum pink with teal and red pearl
CHF 26.00


DAZZLESHADOW
Let’s Boogie black with sparkles / Sparkling Moment black with purple and red sparkles
Let’s Roll red bronze with high sparkles / Slow / Fast / Slow bronze with red sparkles
I Like 2 Watch mid-tone brown with gold sparkles
CHF 31.00


GLITTER
Yellow Gold gold / Fuchsia Hologram 3D fuchsia / Heliotrope purple
Black Hologram 3D dark grey / Silver Hologram 3D silver
CHF 35.00

PIGMENT
Rose rose with copper sparkle (frost)
CHF 35.00
LIQUIDLAST LINER 
Point Black – black (matte) / Misty Me – bright silver (pearl) / Naked Bond – copper (pearl)
CHF 28.00
IN EXTREME DIMENSION WATERPROOF LASH
CHF 31.00
PREP+PRIME Fix+
Goldlite
CHF 26.00

M∙A∙C Carnival Limited Edition (in some countries it is called M∙A∙C Glitter Tripper collection)
Exclusively available at www.maccosmetics.ch from today.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of M∙A∙C Cosmetics