Dinner with Frédéric Malle

Frederic_Malle_Cover

Lately, I was invited by Perfumery Osswald in Zurich and had the amazing honor to have dinner with Frédéric Malle, a very captivating and inspirational gentleman, a father of four, and the man behind the niche fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Born in 1962, he grew up immersed in the world of perfumery (his grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Christian Dior Perfumes, and Frédéric’s mother later worked as an Art Director for the same perfume house) and has a deep knowledge of raw materials, fragrance structure and accords that he shared with me that night. His ‘Editions’ collection includes scents by distinguished noses including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Pierre Bourdon.

IMG_0198With Frédéric Malle at dinner at the Widder hotel.

Malle studied art history and economics at New York University. In 1988, he began his career at Roure Bertrand Dupont, the prestigious perfume laboratory. After working in the industry for more than 12 years, Frederic was ready to embark on a new adventure.

Frederic_Malle_20004 of his first launched perfumes in 2000: Lipstick Rose (Ralf Schwieger), Musc Ravager (Maurice Roucel), En Passant (Olivia Giacobetti) and Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion).

In 2000, using his connections and experience in the industry, Frédéric invited nine top perfumers to design their own original perfumes with no restrictions, not even financially regarding their ingredients they chose. Thanks to Frédéric Malle, the return to luxury perfumery took place at the beginning of our century. In an era in which most companies put more importance on brand names, Malle brought the attention back to the product itself: perfume.

Until today, through a simple “back to basics” approach, Editions de Parfums is challenging all prevailing trends. Frédéric Malle’s contribution to the creation of the different fragrances sold under Editions de Parfums varies depending on the perfumers’ desire. Perfumers appeal to him to assess their work in progress and to share ideas.

Frederic-Malle-03

These fragrances are packaged in bottles that feature the name of the perfumer—a first in the industry, where the perfumer is traditionally behind the scenes and credit for the scent is given to the fashion house or celebrity on the bottle. While we were talking during dinner, I could sense that Frédéric Malle is very fond of Dominique Ropion‘s work. The two of them seem to build an amazing team.

quote_Malle

The development of a signature scent is a lengthy process, generally lasting between 6 and 18 months. Each fragrance starts with an idea, an “olfactive sketch,” which can either take the form of a material base – the mix of two or three raw materials, like colors in an abstract painting – or of an initial feeling, the desire to translate or convey a specific emotion. From there, the perfumers gradually build a full-scale composition, tinkering and problem-solving until a perfect balance is achieved. The challenge is to polish and perfect without losing the impact and personality of the original idea.

Eliminate all that is superfluous or merely decorative” – this, Frédéric Malle’s credo, is the only rule imposed on the house perfumers. Malle requests that each fragrance be designed to uniquely merge with the wearer’s skin rather than to just be a “pretty scent.”

Frederic_Malle_Parfums

Designer Frédéric Malle has more than 25 perfumes available at the moment, made in collaboration with perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Bruno Jovanovic, Carlos Benaim, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Edmond Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger, Edouard Flechier, Michel Roudnitska and Sophia Grojsman.

Frederic-Malle_Downstairs-finalNew investments under the new helmet: Frédéric Malle’s London store at 14, Burlington Arcade.

Two years ago, The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

Frédéric Malle said about his decision to sell part of his company: “The Estée Lauder Companies has great respect for the art of perfumery and for the creativity, dedication and mastery required to create truly exceptional fragrance experiences. The company’s commitment to a high standard of excellence and ability to support the growth of entrepreneurial concepts in a way that preserves all that is unique and special makes The Estée Lauder Companies the ideal partner for us.

A truly inspirational creator and a real business man!

TO SHOP FREDERIC MALLE ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
In Switzerland a large selection is available at Perfumery Osswald in Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Frederic_Malle_Logo

Photos: Courtesy of Frédéric Malle and © Sandra Bauknecht, via Mr Porter

New Scents for Men

New Scents Men 2bPhoto: © Sandra Bauknecht

Today, I would like to show you the best new scents for men. Don’t undervalue the way you smell! Gentlemen, whether you are on a date, a business meeting, a party or just doing your daily chores, the first impression is the most important. The best men deserve the best men’s fragrance. Here we go! The new spring scents are vibrant, energetic and mostly fresh.

LoL, Sandra

212 Glam Men

CAROLINA HERRERA 212 GLAM MEN

Inspired by NYC, the city that never sleeps.
212 Glam Men is a limited edition summer fragrance that is vibrant and energetic.

Top notes: Chocolate and cocoa beans
Middle notes: Tobacco leaves and tonka beans 
Base notes: Musk and woods

Limited edition 212 MEN GLAM Eau de Toilette is available for CHF 102.00 (100ml),
in Switzerland exclusively at Import Parfumerie.

Dolce & gabbana Sport

DOLCE & GABBANA – THE ONE SPORT

An homage to sports
After the original The One for Men from 2008 and The One Gentlemen from 2010, Dolce Gabbana launches the third fragrance from The One masculine line, lighter and fresher The One Sport. As it should, the campaign is represented by a man symbol, Adam Senn who is showing off his worked-out body.

Top notes: Aquatic notes and rosemary
Heart notes: Cardamom and sequoia
Base notes: Patchouli and musk

The One Sport EdT is available now for CHF 76,00 (30ml), CHF 98,00 (50ml) and CHF 135,00 (100ml). After Shave Lotion CHF 97,00 (100ml), After Shave Balm CHF 71,00 (75ml), Shower Gel CHF 45,00 (200ml), Deodorant Spray CHF 45,00 (150ml) and Deodorant Stick CHF 45,00 (75gr).

Diesel

DIESEL – ONLY THE BRAVE TATTOO

I like the idea of “signing“ one’s body … – Renzo Rosso
The designer had his motto, “Only The Brave”, tattooed just above his ankle. The phrase is synonymous with success and, above all, evokes the boundless conviction of a fulfilled, self-made man. “The phrase is part of me. It stands for what I am and have always wanted to be.” Fragrance and tattoo are both “a trace” left on the skin… This is a new, fresh, mysterious sensuality around a water-pipe tobacco accord.

Top notes: Granny Smith Apple
Middle notes: Sage and Bourbon pepper
Base notes: Amber wood, benzoin, tobacco and patchouli

Diesel Only The Brave Tattoo EdT is available now for CHF 79.90 (50ml).

Dior Eau sauvageEau Sauvage

CHRISTIAN DIOR – EAU SAUVAGE PARFUM (my favourite)

Variations of a legend
Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage, introduced in 1966, revolutionized men’s perfumes of that era. In May 2012, Dior will relaunch its famous scent, which was created by Edmond Roudnitska.

Top notes: Bergamot
Middle notes: Vetiver 
Base notes: Myrrh

Eau Sauvage Parfum EdP will be available from May 16, 2012 for CHF 98.50 (50ml) and CHF 134.50 (100 ml).

Bottle_still life2Gant

GANT

Water and sky have a fragrance.
Throughout the years, the New England coast has been a constant source of inspiration for GANT. The new scent captures the very essence of the relaxed lifestyle lived on and around the water in this area.

Top notes: Calabria lemon, coriander, Madagascan cinnamon bark
Middle notes: Provence lavender, White Virginian cedar, marine accord
Base notes: Suede accord, Australian sandalwood, North African cypress, black amber

Sold exclusively at GANT stores worldwide for CHF 59.50 (50ml) and CHF 89.50 (100 ml).

AMEN PURE SHOT visuel Oscar Pistorius

A*MEN PURE SHOT

Pure Shot – a fresh, aromatic, spicy, woody scent.
In time for the Olympics later this year, Thierry Mugler is launching a new limited edition flanker scent to its A*Men men’s fragrance, called A*Men Pure Shot. It’s is inspired by Oscar Pistorius, the 25-year-old South African 400-metre runner who has been called “the fastest man on no legs.“ Pistorius was born without a fibula in either leg; his lower legs were amputated when he was 11 months old and he’s been using prostheses since his childhood. Pistorius’ carbon-fiber prostheses look very futuristic, and they play a big part in the A*Men advertising campaign.

Top notes: Icy mint and juniper berries
Heart notes: Cardamom and white pepper
Base notes: Sequoia and patchouli.

Limited edition, available end of March 2012, Eau de Toilette CHF 87.- (100ml).