Sandra‘s Closet

Last night, the 11th Swiss Textiles Award was presented on the occasion of the first Fashion Days Zurich. The highly acclaimed fashion prize is worth € 100.000.- and talented designers like Jason Wu, Duro Olowu, Adam Kimmel, Juun.J, Damir Doma and Mary Katrantzou were fighting for it.
But there can be only one winner! And this year, it went to the only woman in the competition.
I was very happy to meet all of them and talk about their visions and designs.

The winner Greek-born and London-based Mary Katrantzou was my guess and also my favourite. So I was very happy for her to receive the trophy.

 

The 27-year-old is a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London.

 

She belongs to a new generation of designers, using digital prints to create extraordinary trompe d’oeil effects. To me, she is creating unique pieces that the fashion world has not seen before, a true innovation! This is her fourth collection. The first was about perfume bottles, the second about artisanal blown glass, the third was inspired by jewels and this time it is all about rooms. Her stunning S/S 2011 interior-inspired collection was already the talk of London Fashion Week

 

Mary, congratulations, you have absolutely deserved to win. How do you feel at the moment?

Ecstatic! I couldn’t believe it and cried backstage so I think that says it all.

What does the trophy mean to you?

The financial support is amazing at a stage when the business is growing and it’s so important to have that support. I can invest in my company now on a multilevel, taking it to a newer and international level and award the people who have believed in me. It’s a very prestigious prize, it’s a benchmark and a great honour. You just feel you have been acknowledged.

Does your Greek origin influence your designs?

Probably in the concept of the female figure, meaning to design very closely to the body.
Moreover, it is very difficult and time-consuming to place the prints correctly on the clothes in order to flatter the feminine silhouette.

Do you think that your designs are wearable?

Absolutely! I mean the commercial aspect is important, too. I want women to wear my designs instead of hanging them in a museum. You should feel comfortable.
I like to make objects wearable and desirable. It is just my signature look, I don’t want women to feel objectified.

Any hints concerning your next collection for F/W 2011?

It’s a progression of this one, it’s not as thematic and it’s slightly darker. The thing is with my collections,  if I say too much then it will give it away. Like with this collection if I had said ‘rooms’, I would have revealed too much.

How do you like Zurich?

It is my first time and I haven’t been able to properly enjoy it as I was so busy with this show. But yesterday we were very hungry and went to the lake where all these old buildings are located. It was really nice and I love Zurich.

What will you do next?

Going home to my boyfriend and I think drinks will be on the list. (Giggles.)

Where are you going to put your trophy?

Top front in my new studio that we are right in the middle of moving in.

That Mary had to beat off stiff competition from fellow designers can you see below.

Jason Wu was born in Taipeh and moved when he was a child to Vancouver. He studied to be a sculptor and went to Parsons School of Design. His first collection was launched in 2006.

 

His career kicked off when Michelle Obama supported the young talent by wearing a custom-designed one-shoulder, floor-length white chiffon gown, at the ball on the night of President Barack Obama’s inauguration. Later, she appeared on the cover of the US-Vogue once again in a Wu design, a magenta silk dress.

 

 

 

Today, Wu works in New York. His eye for details and colours is his strong point.
For S/S 2011 he cut out small petals and created beautiful embellishments.

Jason was very sweet and revealed some interesting facts:

My mum always supported me. She bought me a sewing machine at the age of 10 and paid a fashion student to teach me.
My beloved symbol, the owl, was inspired by my last name Wu because if you say it many times in a row, it sounds like it.

 

Born in Lagos and based in London, Duro Olowu went on a quite different career path.  He studied law in England, worked as a lawyer in Nigeria before switching to his first love, fashion. Drawing on the inspirations he found by the unexpected mix of fabrics, textures and draping techniques of the clothing worn by the women of his native land.

 

He launched his own label in London in October, 2004 which became an instant hit with his use of luxurious fabrics and ecclectic, clashing prints.
Last year, he opened his own boutique in London.

Michelle Obama has supported Duro’s carrer as well, as she has been seen many times in his vibrant styles.

 

For his S/S 2011 collection, Duro flipped easily back and forth between retro silhouettes and modern bright pop-like references, incorporationg the saturated colours of tribes in Papua New Guinea and the ever present influence of his Nigerian and Jamaican heritage.

I spoke briefly to him and was overwhelmed by his charming positive attitude. His aura reflects the joie de vivre that shows in his collections.

Being proud of his roots, he is a leading example of how you can life your dream and that everything is possible.

Damir Doma is a modern nomade. His collections are inspired by his own way of living.

 

He was born in Croatia and grew up in the southern part of Germany. Same like me, he studied fashion design at ESMOD (L’ Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode) in Munich and Berlin. He graduated in 2004 with magna cum laude for the best collection and worked after that in Antwerp for Raf Simons whom he sees as one of the most inspiring designers.

In 2006 he started his label with menswear, followed this year by his first collection for women. He is widely considered the most improtant German fashion designer of his generation.

 

Damir explained:

I don’t like the body to adapt to the clothes, it should be vice-versa. I love soft materials and flowing volume. I grew up in my mother’s atelier and was playing with fabric starting in my early childhood. That might be the reason why fabrics play such an important role for me.

 

Adam Kimmel stands for the American way of life, uniting the worker and the artist. As he states himself; it’s all about giving the industrial style profile by infusing relaxed elegance.

 

He studied architecture, completed then later an apprenticeship with an Italian samples manufacturer before launching his debut label in 2002.

The New Yorker designer received standing ovations for the presentation of his S/S 2011 collection last night. The usually more quiet Swiss audience cheered from the first moment when the sounds of Snoop Dogg echoed in the hall.

The Snoop looky-likeys paraded down the aisle in a perfect mixture of hip-hop style elements produced in the finest Italian cashmere. I am sure Snoop would love it.

 

Later at the after party at Moods, Adam told me more:

I saw the Wall Street Journal including something about Snoop Dogg and got immediately inspired to create this collection.

As we could not bring the models to Switzerland, we did a fun street casting in Zurich before to find the best bad boys.

 

The final show last night was the one of last year’s Swiss Textiles Award 2009 winner Alexander Wang.
Stay tuned as I did a fantastic detailed interview with him which will soon be published here.

LoL, Sandra

From November 3 – 6, 2010 Switzerland will be part of the fashion world. After the famous Prêt-à-porter shows in New York, London, Milano and Paris in September/October, there will be now the Fashion Days Zurich. The big difference to the well-known Fashion Weeks will be that customers can buy tickets for most of the events, they are not only for media, buyers and VIPs. The main sponsor Charles Vögele will kick off the FDZ with the opening night on Wednesday.

Thursday morning is much influenced by upcoming Swiss designers. Talents like Redley Exantus, Aluar Balagan, Aleksandra Wisniewska, PortenierRoth and Toujours Toi – Family Affairs are happy to show their creations to a broader audience.

The probably most exciting part of the FDZ will be the 11th Swiss Textiles Award. Already internationally acclaimed names like Adam Kimmel, Jason Wu, Juun.J, Duro Olowu, Mary Katrantzou and Damir Doma will come to the Swiss metropolis to present their S/S 2011 collections in front of a jury. The competition’s best will receive a financial support worth €100.000.-.
Last year’s winner Alexander Wang, who is today one of the most hyped designers, will close the night with his show.

Friday morning will start with the pulsating vibe of the established Swiss designers, among them Heinrich Brambilla, Lela Scherrer, Saro, Kazu Huggler and Tran Hin Phu.

The 7th Annabelle Awards ceremony will be held on Friday evening. The up-and-coming Swiss designer winning the enticing prize, will receive a one-year placement with Kaviar Gauche.

Calida Bodywear and Aubade Lingerie will also show their collections on the catwalk that night.

Saturday morning will start off with kids fashion shows. In the evening, the exciting time will come to an end with two highlights: Guido Maria Kretschmer and Missoni will present their S/S 2011 collections.

For further information or tickets, please visit the Fashion Days Zurich homepage or contact ticketcorner.ch.

Let’s turn Zurich into a fashion hotspot!

LoL, Sandra

Can you guess where we are in time-travelling after my lastet posts about lace and rocking hot black leather? Yes, we have arrived in the `80s. For some people, the golden decade was the worst one fashionwise but since a few seasons designers have relied on some of the worth recycling styles. The leggings  and skinny jeans came back around 4 years ago and who would have ever imagined their ongoing success?! They have definitely conquered my closet and I never want them to vanish again as the modernized versions are stylish and comfy in one.

Designers have returned 20 years this F/W 2010 to find the `80s ma-ma-material beauty and so can you. Let`s begin!

You might feel like a virgin in a sharp leather pencil skirt, sequined blazer and fishnet stockings. Add lots of accessories like the iconic safety pins, stacked bracelets and big cross pendants for the ultimate killer look!

Balmain launched a real boom with the return of the shoulder pads. The last seasons, fashionistas have crazed all over the world for the must-have blazers and jackets. The hype is definitely not over yet! Party like it`s 1982 in those brocade and patchwork nightclub nostalgia pieces from the F/W 2010 runways. Absolutely screaming hot are red leather leggings, another must for this winter!


The `80s encouraged self-expression with eyecatching neon colours and rainbow dyes. I would not do the complete look but you can easily embed one sparkling bright piece into your daily wear. One thing I am not so sure is about the über-teased hair…. probably a little too much retro-style. But nevertheless the point of fashion is that girls just wanna have fun! So let`s start experimenting….

In case that you are looking for your personal Jesus, try black leather and fringes. So hot! Sequined leggings combined with a denim jacket would turn you also very fast back to the `80s without looking disguised.

If you want to find the fashion cure for this winter`s style heritage, you could opt for a goth look with an asymmetrical cropped sweater or some cut out off-shoulder-tops. And I am sure that this Friday, you will be in love.

 

My personal `80s-inspired object of desire is this gorgeous suede buckled V-neck dress by Balmain. Available from today at net-à-porter. This is rock glam chic at its best! Hard to beat it.

LoL, Sandra

Let`s travel further in time. A breeze from the `70s floated over the F/W 2010 runways when the designers brought the more sophisticated aspects of this decade`s fashion into the now. Indulging in reminiscences of young Jane Birkin, Bianca Jagger and Veruschka, nonchalance, luxe and subtlety are the catchwords fall embraces.

Camel is the colour of the season followed by a palette of browns, nudes, and greys.

 

The ever-stylish shade makes a great fashion statement in combination with the must-have outerwear this season, the cape.

I love the cape by H&M to the right.

 

Cut more generously than a coat, the dashing alternative allows more freedom of movement and works much better over shoulder embellishments and mutton sleeves.
It was a veritable explosion of fur on the runways so there is no need to shy away from those ueberluxe pieces. The soft cocoon embrace of a voluminous real or faux fur jacket (or vest) will be irresistible this winter.

As the mood is casual luxe for daywear, redefine power-dressing in buttery silk blouses with tie collars.

When it comes to trousers, opt for sleek or wide leg ones with a minimalist edge. Razor-sharp slimline Gucci pants or immaculately tailored like the ones by YSL are among my favourites. Naturally worn with a cashmere turtleneck, they are the most figure flattering throwback to `70s style.

To complement the look, you will have to tie the knot with a pair of lace up booties. They are must-haves for every shoeaholic.

Synonymous with luxe seventies style are the long-handled drawstring bucket bags. So no wonder they have made a much-welcome appearance.

Another bestseller will be the remake of Gucci`s 1973 line. Available in nappa, suede and exotic leathers like crocodile and ostrich, those bags are classic and beautiful enough to be safe investment pieces.

If you really want to get a head start on the boho wardrobe, look for a floppy hat or a knitted beanie.

You do not need to go overboard. Enjoy your fashion moments in traditional, timeless essentials and the overall effect will be more post seventies luxe than vintage hippie.

LoL, Sandra

Yesterday evening at the premiere of “Salt” at Graumans Chinese Theatre in L.A., Angelina Jolie looked every bit Hollywood`s reigning queen. The spy thriller is due on 23rd of July in the US and one month later in the UK.

At her big night, the leading lady kept her look cool with a sexy black sequin tube dress by Emporio Armani, nude peep toes by Salvatore Ferragamo and just one piece of jewelry from her own collection that she had designed for luxury jewelers Asprey last year. The snake bracelet has been part of the very limited serpentine-inspired Protector Collection, with only 10 items of each design available and all proceeds going to the power couple`s charity.

But her best accessory might have been King Brad who appeared fur-free, meaning without his beard, looking a little like a young Robert Redford in his aviator sunglasses and Tom Ford suit. As I am a bag-addict, I immediately saw that the beautiful brunette showed up without one. So I was wondering what Brad might have been carrying in his pockets…

Angelina wore her favourite colour dress as in LBD (Little Black Dress). In fashionista circles, this is a must-have and the general consensus is a thumbs up! The sequins gave her classic look a sexy twist and the nude pumps worked perfectly with it.
In case you do not own a dress like that, please consider one. At the moment, there are a lot of beautiful ones available of which many are on sale. Here is my pre-selection:

If you prefer doing-it-yourself, I recommend a visit to the notions department. Sequin fabrics are not too expensive and used preferably for costumes. Just sew the material together and voilà there is your tube dress!

A sparkling LBD is a lifetime investment! Do it the Angelina way…

LoL, Sandra

Fall patterns took a traditional turn with highland tartans and madras checks. Plaid has continued its raison d`être as one of fashion`s favourite fabrics for F/W 2010. But this season is not about the lumberjack shirt, the designers went a little further with plaid dresses and pants, plus the absolute must-have: The kilt-inspired skirt!

If you want to work a touch of heritage-chic into your cold-weather wardrobe, I recommend starting now with those super-cool skirts below. From mini to pencil, from draped to pleated, those versions are catering for all tastes. Update your capsule wardrobe with a piece like that and you are all on for new-season cool. Prices can vary depending on the country you live in.

In case you are worried to look too preppy-back-to-school, juxtapose this classic fabric against something with a bit more edge. I put an outfit together to show you what I mean:
The classic skirt by Chloé works perfectly with a corset top and asymmetrical sweater, both by Alexander Wang. Team with a must-have cape by Stella McCartney and stocking-attached ankle boots by Givenchy and finish off your modern, sexy look with a floppy hat by YSL. This is anything but conservative!

Like I always say, keep your stuff, there will be a time that you can wear it again! My outfit is completely from previous seasons and looks very up-to-date this fall.

Plaid skirt by Gucci, leather biker jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection, red boots by Prada, bag by Chanel and hat by H&M.

There is always a time for a kilt! And you can spare the underwear…

LoL, Sandra

 

 

This summer, there was no body part safe from the cutout trend. If you think too trashy for you, you will be most likely mistaken. Strategically placed bare spots are glamourous and taking sexy to the next level without being vulgar. Revealing the right amount of skin can be much more sizzling than seeing it all. It is like playing hide and seek.

As the S/S 2010 season is coming to an end fashionwise, I truly recommend getting a cutout or cobwebby knitted dress now. The Gucci version has the must-have tribal print for summer but will not be a classic because of that.
Please find below my pre-selection of the best pieces on sale, available at Browns and Net-à-porter.

Trust me, it will be a good investment. The trend is going to stay for F/W 2010. The only obvious change is that the cutout styles are a little more subtle and smaller which is probably better for the cold winter months. Please see for yourself:

Play discreetly peekaboo and believe me heads will be turning your direction!

LoL, Sandra

High heeled, stilettoed, up to the thigh, those boots are insane and definitely to become the hits of the season. Just imagine your legs in them! Those jaw-dropping models from the F/W 2010 collections will make you speechless and others green with envy.

The overknee is going to stay for another season, love the Burberry ones. You could feel a saloon-girl approach in detail and line at Balmain or Givenchy, lace-up and mid-calf, you are ready to dance the Can-Can. But no worries, it is a very modern look, not at all disguised.

Architecturally amazing are the soles of Viktor & Rolf, even if they seem to be a copy of Camilla Skovgaard`s signature style (see left).

Buckled, fringed – there are certainly no rules, experiment with such a variety of shapes and models. I am sure that there is already one that has conquered your heart! To be in stores soon…

LoL, Sandra

The 2010 CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) paid tribute to its winners and honorees last night in New York at the Lincoln Center. The award could be compared to the Oscars in fashion. Many celebrities, designers, models and stylists attented the event, dressed up beautifully. A real fashionable crowd.

The most important prize was won by Marc Jacobs, named to be the Womenswear Designer of the Year. Menswear went to Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright and the Accessory section was covered by Alexis Bittar.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Alexander McQueen honoured the late designer for his indelible contribution to international fashion. Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief of US Vogue, handed the Geoffrey Been Lifetime Achievement Award to Michael Kors who showed up with Gwyneth Paltrow in one of his designs. Christopher Bailey for Burberry was recognized with this year`s International Award.

The three Swarovski Awards for emerging talents were given to Jason Wu, Richard Chai and Alexander Wang. This is not only a trophy. The recipients will receive generous financial support from the company. Let`s keep an eye on those rising stars!

LoL, Sandra

News is: Velvet has made its comeback for F/W 2010. The rich fabric has many enemies, are you one of them who shudder to think of a post-90`s revival? Please do not and give it a chance! You may be pleasantly surprised. The designers used velvet, preferably red and oxblood coloured, in many striking ways. Alexander Wang showed probably the best collection to bring the velvet trend out of the 90`s and into the now.
Dolce & Gabbana kept it classic and elegant with vampy red draped dresses.

I also spotted historical references. Ralph Lauren got inspired from the medieval era whereas Zac Posen and Altuzarra showed sharp cut 70`s style trouser suits.

Hopefully I was able to convince the velvet haters among you. And if not yet, consider that just one single velvet piece like a well crafted jacket can create a sizzling dandy look without going overboard.

Inject a bit of velvet into your wardrobe and signal your sophistication!

LoL, Sandra