Sandra‘s Closet

Last December, I told you already about the beautiful Chanel Paris-Byzance Pre-Fall 2011 Collection and the gorgeous limited-edition byzantine shaded make-up that comes with it. Now it is available in the Chanel stores around the globe.

Inspired by the mosaic of Empress Theodora, Chanel Global Creative Director of Make-up Peter Philips created a beautiful, graphic look. Like the famous portrait, a red line crosses the eyelid, following the brow line. Parallel to this, a stroke of deep black eyeliner accentuates a graphic effect, which frames the eye as if setting a precious stone, redefining its proportions.

Inspired by Byzantine treasures, red, black, gold and bronze-tinged shades offer a classic base that can be adopted as desired in sumptuous or simply day-to-day makeup.

Rouge Allure Rouge Byzantin CHF 48.- / Joues Contraste Or and Rouge, each CHF 60.-

The Regard Signé de Chanel palette takes center stage: mirroring the Chanel suit button, each shadow is dressed in a quilted effect and stamped with the double C. The texture can be used in two ways, powdery and creamy.

Regard Signé de Chanel Topkapi CHF 77.-

Hurry, those items will sell out fast!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Chanel

When you hear the name Victorinox, you might associate it immediately with the Swiss Army Knife. But the Swiss brand has much more to offer, from travel luggage to watches to perfume and clothes.

I was recently invited to their hometown Ibach, Switzerland to visit the factory and to explore their newest project:
Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox – REMADE IN SWITZERLAND.

At the entrance a colourful and dramatic installation welcomed me presenting the capsule collection that the young UK designer has created for Victorinox for F/W 2011, consisting of eight items for both genders, each to be produced in a hand-numbered limited edition of 100 pieces.

“The project is a fantastic opportunity to align the innovation and individuality of my brand with the heritage and quality of Victorinox.”
– Christopher Raeburn.

Christopher Raeburn with me

From Parachute Poncho to Runway Couture

Raeburn has been known for his pioneering work taking old military surplus and transforming it into beautiful clothes since he launched in 2008 his label utilizing decommissioned military stocks of uniform and parachute fabrics to create functional and intelligent garments. Raeburn’s namesake designs are proudly REMADE IN ENGLAND in his small East London production facility.

For the project with Victorinox, he did the same. By taking apart the existing garments from local military surplus stores, he found inspiration and ideas to create new ones, re-imagining unexpected uses for the old and challenging the concept of what is considered new. Everything is proudly produced (“remade”) in Switzerland.

A rare find was a box of horseshoe nails that became the symbol of the project for Raeburn. He challenged Victorinox to recast that nail into scales for an Original Swiss Army Knife to complement the project. The nail also inspired a print used for linings and other graphic treatments.

For the project, Victorinox is working with local seamstresses and tailors. Corinne Kaiser, who is heading the team with Camilla from England, explained the process and the difficulties they experienced with some of the fabrics.

OFFICER’S PARKA constructed from surplus Swiss military sleeping bag outers, 2 front chest
pockets featuring reused original military Riri zips.

CAPTAIN’S COAT constructed from re-appropriated Swiss wool coats dating back up to 60 years and lined with over-dyed surplus Swiss military cotton bed sheets.

HORSESHOE NAIL KNIFE crafted from surplus military horseshoe nails melted down and recast as knife scales, packaged in reclaimed original coated paper box that held the nails.

PARACHUTE HOODIE constructed from 2 colours of surplus Swiss military air-brake
parachutes, tape from original parachutes and jersey cuffs from military balaclavas.

RECRUIT’S CAP constructed from offcuts of surplus Swiss military wool jackets and over-dyed cotton bed sheets, side panels can flip down to cover ears or fold up.

DUFFLE BACKPACK constructed from surplus heavy canvas Swiss tarpaulin with integrated
original buckles.

SENTRY’S SCARF constructed from surplus Swiss military blankets and over-dyed surplus Swiss military cotton bed sheets.

COCOON BLOUSON constructed from surplus Swiss military sleeping bags, reinforced with waterproof sleeping bag outer, can be roll packed like original sleeping bag.

The collaboration will be available throughout Victorinox flagships and most high-end shops worldwide. Check out the stop-motion preview below, it is pretty cool. Prices will range between CHF 700 – 2000 depending on the piece.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Courtesy of Victorinox

„To me, photography is an art of observation…
It is about finding something interesting in an ordinary place.“
-Elliott Erwitt

Recently I was invited by the Swiss private bank Clariden Leu to attend a very special soirée to celebrate the one year renovation of their headquarter on Bahnhofstrasse 32 in Zurich with the amazing exhibition „A World of Pictures“ by Elliott Erwitt. The photography legend had been flown in especially for the evening and it was a real honour to meet him.

Clariden Leu’s ‘Leuenhof’ was built in Neo-Gothic style between 1914 and 1915 and its impressive art gallery is the ideal venue for art exhibitions.

Olivier Jaquet, CEO Clariden Leu, gave an introductory speech and Birgit Filzmaier, owner of the gallery “19th & 20th Century Fine Art Photography” (the place to go if you are interested in Elliott Erwitts’s work) the laudation.

Elliott Erwitt with Mike Baur, Clariden Leu’s new Head Private Banking Switzerland

“Elliott Erwitt’s Best Picture? The Next One.”

Elliott Erwitt was born in France of Russian émigré parents in 1928. His formative years were spent in Italy. At the age of 10 he moved with his family to France afterward immigrating to the United States in 1939.

 

Grace Kelly, New York City 1955.

„It was pure luck. Luck is essential in photography.”

-Elliott Erwitt

Distinguished as both a documentary and commercial photographer, Erwitt has taken some of the most memorable photos of the 20th century, including portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly, as well as astonishing scenes of everyday life, filled with poetry, wit and a special sense of humor. Famous for capturing absurd split-second moments and subtle glances, Erwitt’s work is truly masterful. He likes children and dogs.

Jacqueline Kennedy, at the funeral of JFK, Arlington 1963

Dog Legs, New York City 1974

In 1953 freshly decommissioned from military service, Elliott Erwitt was invited to join Magnum Photos as a member by its founder Robert Capa. To date he continues to be an active member and one of the leading figures in the competitive field of photography.

Elliott Erwitt is said not to like talking about his photos as they talk for themselves. In the conversation between him and Ettore Gualtiero Robbiani, Clariden Leu’s art specialist and curator of the in-house private art collection, Elliott Erwitt’s evident sense of humour showed in his very witty answers and made him perennially quotable. Enjoy!

Elliott Erwitt, welcome to Zurich. How are you?

Most of the parts are working!

I have to confess I am really fascinated by you. What is this egg about?

Everybody has a tag here and I felt lonesome having no tag.

You are an eyewitness to history and a dreamer with a camera. You took some of the most memorable photos of the century. Where do you see your cultural roots?

Photographers don’t need to have roots.

Do you ask for permission taking somebody’s photos?

You never ask for permission. You shoot first and hope that they don’t realise. In Japan, it is very easy to be a photographer because everybody is. In Muslim countries it is hard as nobody likes their picture to be taken. In France, they have privacy laws, if people see themselves in the magazine, they can sue you if you don’t have a permission.

Couple Kissing, Santa Monica, California 1955

 

Have you been sued ?

I was sued by people who thought that they were in the picture but they weren’t.

How did your interest in photography raise?

Because of family circumstances, I was on my own since the age of 16 and I had to make a living. Taken photographs was a good way. You don’t have a boss. My only permanent job that I ever had was with the US military army. Everything else has been freelance.

Did you like the army?

I didn’t mind it.

Did you have your camera with you?

Always. I took some of my best pictures when I was in the army.

What is today your favourite camera?

I don’t have a favourite camera. I divide between my professional and personal work. For clients, you have to use the tools you need to achieve the results that your clients expect. For my own personal work, I walk around with a small camera, my Leica usually and that is quite seperate. One thing is for business, one thing is for hobby.

Miami Beach, 1962

 

And talking about influences? What were your early influences in photography?

My early influences were Italian films after the war, neo-realist films of Fellini, Rosselini, people like that. That was my main influence and apart from that the photography of Henri Cartier-Bresson which are the gold standards in my view of photography.

When it comes to being influenced you named Edward Steichen as a mentor. How did he influence you?

He didn’t influence me, he was just very helpful at that time. I was very young and I could use some help. He got me my first job by calling somebody up. He could do that, he was a very powerful man. My influences were as I mentioned before.

You once said that photography is a craft that everybody with normal intelligence could learn? But to take it beyond the craft is when the magic comes in? How do you actually approach your magic moments in a photo? Is it all staging, set-ups?

I don’t get up in the morning and expect to do magic. I think that magic is in the eye in the beholder. You don’t plan things. Good photography is not planned unless it is work which is planned. Photography which is interesting to me is simply an art of observation, organising elements, making fine prints.

Marilyn Monroe, New York City 1956

 

Coming to magic moments. In your career, you portraited Marilyn Monroe. I tend to say that you showed her in a different way than we know her. How was Marilyn as a person?

I was afraid that you asked that. I am always asked that question. She was very nice, very photogenic. She looked better in pictures than in real life. Also she looked pretty good in real life as well. She was a sensitive person, a little bit nuts. She was very kind to me.

Whom of the famous persons that you met was meaningful to you?

Famous people are ordinary people that became famous. President Kennedy, Fidel Castro, of course that is interesting. Those people are very historic figures. And the problem of taking a picture of those famous people is exactly the same than taking it of ordinary people.

When you mentor young photographers what are looking for in their work?

Visual sense, application, a kind of burning ambition because it is very difficult to succeed in photography. Digital photography makes it easy to become a photographer but hard to become a good one. So you look for energy, for perserverance, and as I said most importantly for visual sense.

Metropolitan Museum, New York City, 1988

 

What about ego? Do you need a strong ego?

A strong ego gets generally in the way of things. People don’t react very well to people with a strong ego. If you have it, keep it private.

Who is your favourite photographer living or dead?

The ones that are in my agency Magnum. Henri Cartier-Bresson is the champion of them. There are some that are very promising. Photographers who work for the passion, those are the interesting ones. The ones only on assignment are not the interesting ones, they are just earning a living.

Do you collect yourself?

I am not a collector. But I have exchanged with some of my friends.

57th Street Gallery, New York City, 1963

 

This year, you received the Infinity Award 2011 for Lifetime Achievement from the International Center of Photography. Can you please describe what it is like to receive that honour? It is the lifetime Oscar  of photography.

It is a little bit embarrasing. It seems like your life is over. You get a nice dinner, a little statue, people think that you are okay. But it really shouldn’t influence you that much.

You son Misha is a photographer as well. When he told you about his future plans, how did you react? What advice did you give him?

Get a dayjob! But here is an amusing anecdote: When my father retired, he decided to become a photographer because he wanted to follow in his son’s footsteps which I thought was very sweet.

Thank you Mr Erwitt for coming!

Thank you all for showing up! I couldn’t imagine that I am that interesting.

What an honour: Elliott Erwitt with me.

LoL, Sandra

Summer has officially just started, but when it comes to fashion, we are right in the middle of winter.
The F/W 2011 ad campaigns are popping up and one of the most talked about this season is Prada’s „fashion maximalism“. Shot by Steven Meisel, the photos show never-before-seen faces such as Frida Gustavsson, Ondria Hardin, Dorte Limkilde, Kelly Mittendorf, Antonia Wesseloh and Julia Zimmer.

One thing is for sure, same as the S/S 2011 banana prints, those trompe l’oeil boots in bright and exotic skins will be seen everywhere the next season and the `60s colour block shift dress will be on every fashionista’s shopping list.

It wouldn’t be Miuccia Prada, if she didn’t surprise us once more. The face of her Miu Miu F/W 2011 ad campaign is 14-year-old actress Hailee Steinfeld who was photographed by Bruce Weber.

After nine seasons working with Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Miu Miu is going in a new direction, with this different and fresh campaign.

Those glitter booties are sure to get even more buzz, they are to-die-for! Same as the oversized clutch bags, preferably in fur.

LoL, Sandra

When I received Christian Louboutin’s new F/W 2011 lookbook, I could barely resist writing about it the same moment.

Photographer Peter Lippmann and Christian Louboutin, who previously worked together nearly two years ago, seeked inspiration from classic portrait paintings where in each of the pictures one new Louboutin item is featured.

Fashion meets art, a truly beautiful and different idea to present the new collection.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Christian Louboutin, © Peter Lippmann

During Milan and Paris menswear S/S 2012 fashion weeks, the streets have been filled with people wearing all sorts of fruits. Prada’s bananas (especially loved by the stronger sex, Tim Blanks rocked the print) plus Stella’s lemons and oranges were  seen everywhere. Remember, I have warned you before that this might happen. Please click here for the previous post in February.

And with the EHEC virus going around, wearing vitamins seems a lot more healthier than consuming them.

Photos: © Tommy Ton, Streetfsn, Upscale

I love my fruits. Recently at the Lovers Lane party with Bex Rox, I wore my Stella McCartney citrusy print dress with my Prada bananas earrings. Python Palais shoes by YSL, necklace Bex Rox.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Kevin McHey

This week, I have had some pretty cool things happening. First of all, one of my favourite websites Lyst.com (have look, it is worth it) did a Q&A with me.
Please click on the photo to see it.

Secondly, I was asked to be in the committee for the Who Is Who of  Zurich magazine which will be launched in November this year.

And last but not least my new column in the SI Style is available from today which tells you all about the campaign shoot for Closed.

More to come!

LoL, Sandra

While being in Florence for LuisaViaRoma’s Firenze4Ever event, I was able to meet Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of Emilio Pucci who serves as deputy chairman and image director of her family’s fashion house.
(For further information on Pucci, I recommend a previous post. Just click here).

Laudomia with me

The charismatic lady was very delighted to see me in head-to-toe Pucci and answered all my questions enthusiastically. Please enjoy my little interview with her:

Laudomia, how was it to be the daughter of Emilio Pucci? Was he a strong character?

The more I go ahead in life, the more I think that those people in general to leave such a legacy behind them, they must have worked very hard and been very very strong.

I also worked with Hubert de Givenchy. That is of course a different kind of person but an esthete to the last tip of his finger. These people had a vision of everything, a culture to die for and a very very fascinating life.

When you think of my father, there was the war, the upbringing in America, a fashion career, his politcal career and his success as a skier. It was basically five lives in one. Of course, those people who survived and who had seen so much, they had to be special.

So to be the daughter of all of that was normal because that was my life. But the story is that he wanted me to work in his business. He adored women. So to have a little woman was the best thing that could have happened to him.

You are a mother yourself. How do you balance being a mum and a business woman?

I have three kids. A girl, a boy, a girl. I have just added my kids to my life. It was a fabulous accessory to have and it became much more of an accessory (laughs…). It just completed my life. I was a late mother and my children are just so precious for me.

Emilio Pucci

Was your father similar to you being a parent? How did your father prepare you to take over one day?

My father had me also quite late in life. It must have been totally alike. So for example, when we launched perfumes. I went back to research  how my father did perfumes and I remembered. He was in my room when I was sick at the age of four . He was in there mixing perfumes and asking me: “Laudomia,  do you like that or do you like this?”

He was always putting me in his vision. I think when you have children, you see yourself moving on. So he saw his fashion move on and that was the message I got. I started working with him in the early 80s when I just had graduated. In the late 80s when he was not feeling well, we decided let’s move on, let’s bring the company where he wants it to be. And that is what I have done. Basically for the past 25 years of my life.

You sold 67% of the company to LVMH in 2000. How do you feel today about your decision?

First of all, I would have never thought that I would have sold and it feels funny enough very much the same as before. The reason for this is more than the influence, there is a mutual respect. That is very very important.

When you are with a partner, when people see there is a point in what you are doing. When you both hardly object it. When you have the patience in life to make it happen. I realised after ten years of managing the company, that I didn’t have the creative talent of my father. I realised that very early. It became such a competitive business, such a difficult business, you couldn’t find talents and production facilities.

And to have that know-how behind you with LVMH now all around the world, is just fantastic. We have great designers. We have been able to open beautiful shops. We have been able to save so much.

Peter Dundas

You worked with many well-known designers like Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson in the past years. Today, the enchanted slumber seems completely over and Peter Dundas has taken Pucci back on a fast ride up to the top. How  do you see him?

Peter is a very different approach. All the designers I worked with, I am grateful to. I needed a lot of input, a lot of energy. But Peter is a different approach. He is a dream! Peter gives all his time, all his energy to the company.

He is good with the girls, with the fashion, with the company, with the feeling. When you see him, he is big, he is blonde, he is sexy, “the blonde beau”. He has got all that and he gives that image to the company. When you asked about my father before, my father had a total different energy, but  also the same strong energy. But one thing that I like a lot is seeing the difference now 50 years later between my father and Peter. My father would ask if I had gained weight and Peter just loves bodies.

It is all about the body looking sexy. Women, the moment you make them look sexy, they are smiling, they are happy. And that is our job! The buzz at the moment is amazing. Peter is happy, I am delighted. So it is not the influence, it is what everyone of us can bring in to make Pucci the most succesful.

Thank you Laudomia for taking your time!

It was such a pleasure to meet Laudomia in person and I was so happy to see this on the official Emilio Pucci Facebook page:

As you already know, I am a huge Pucci fan and love Peter’s designs. For F/W 2011, he has seeked inspirations from Tyrolea and hunting, a little like Romy Schneider in Sissy or Anna Karenina. The beautiful embellishments and the corset-style dresses are absolutely divine. He laid the emphasis on the bust and the outcome is a collection that will make every Bavarian jump up with joy. Be prepared to see me at the next Oktoberfest in those suede knickers with the matching jacket. Love, love, love!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Pucci

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Good news: H&M has announced that its F/W 2011 designer collaboration will be with Versace.

Designed by its creative director Donatella Versace, the exclusive collection will look back to the vibrant heritage of the brand, full of leather, print, colour and exuberance in exclusive materials at fantastic H&M prices. The collection will include ranges for women, men and selected pieces for the home. It will be available from 17 November in around 300 stores worldwide, as well as on-line.

In addition, Donatella Versace has also designed a pre-spring collection for H&M which will be exclusively available in countries with H&M on-line sales from January 19, 2012.

Donatella Versace was already wearing one of the dresses from the Versace for H&M collection at the Versace men’s fashion show in Milan June 20^th, 2011.

“I am thrilled to be collaborating with H&M and to have the opportunity of reaching their wide audience. The collection will be quintessential Versace, perfect for H&M and Versace fans everywhere!” – Donatella Versace

Versace is a brand that is steeped in glamour to its very core. Founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace, his daring dresses and wild iconography revolutionized fashion, creating provocative styles from classical themes which were all cut with an impeccable design eye. Since 1997, Donatella Versace has continued Gianni Versace’s work as creative director, evolving the brand into a global fashion house at the forefront of what luxury means today. Famous worldwide for her signature wardrobe, Donatella Versace is the epitome of everything the Versace house stands for.

Here is your sneak preview at the collection:

Versace is the latest house to collaborate with H&M on an exclusive designer collection, following the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Comme des Garçons, Jimmy Choo and, most recently, Lanvin.

For H&M, Donatella Versace has looked back to the archives to reinterpret some classic Versace designs. The womenswear collection will be dominated by dresses that fit right in with the spirit of the season, featuring studded leather, silk and colorful print, with accessories including high heels and costume jewellery. The men’s collection will focus on sharp tailoring, including the perfect tuxedo, as well as belts and jewellery for men, too. For the first time in a designer collaboration at H&M the collection will consist of some homeware pieces, including cushions and a bedspread.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of H&M, © Johan Sandberg