Sandra‘s Closet

Another great talent has left us. French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier (21 August 1943 – 31 March 2022) has died today. His imagery helped write the history of 1990s fashion.

Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, Demarchelier spent his childhood in Le Havre, Normandy, with his mother and four brothers. His profession was self-taught. For his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first camera. Demarchelier learned how to develop film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends and weddings.

Natalia Vodianova in Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, October 2008

In 1975, Demarchelier left Paris for New York City, United States to follow his girlfriend. He discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer learning from, and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. Since the late 1970s he shot the covers for nearly every major fashion magazine including American, British and Paris Vogue, as well as Harper’s Bazaar. He also shot international advertising campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, CHANEL, Donna Karan, Yves Saint Laurent, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Moschino, Vera Wang, Elizabeth Arden, H&M, Sam Edelman, Zara, Max Azria, Express, Longchamp, Blumarine, Lacoste, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.

Lady Diana photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in 1990

However, he is perhaps best known for his intimate portraits of Princess Diana that helped establish her popularity and accessible public image.

In 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honoured Demarchelier as an Officer in l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Order of Arts and Literature), the same year that he received the CFDA Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert. Demarchelier also appeared in the film «The September Issue» and can be glimpsed in «The Sex & the City movie».

With his son Victor, who works also as a photographer.

Despite a rich and deep legacy, in 2018 amidst the #MeToo reckoning, Demarchelier was accused by seven models who worked with him of sexual harassment. In response to the allegations, Condé Nast announced: «We have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future. Demarchelier denied the allegations.» However, he had never been charged and denied the allegations.

Demarchelier is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons, and three grandchildren.

LoL, Sandra

30 years later, still one of my favorite Vogue covers of all times, famous supermodels on the magazine’s 100th anniversary cover. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, April 1992

Christy Turlington in Azzedine Alaïa.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, May 1991

Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, May 1998

Christy Turlington 
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, July 1999

Photos: Via Vogue Harper’s Bazaar, Sothebys © Patrick Demarchelier

Yesterday, another big name in the world of fashion left us. Esteemed fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh died at the age of 74, as announced in a post on his official Instagram account Wednesday with the above picture.

«It is with great sadness that we announce the passing of Peter Lindbergh on September 3rd 2019, at the age of 74,» the post on his Instagram read. «He is survived by his wife Petra, his first wife Astrid, his four sons Benjamin, Jérémy, Simon, Joseph and seven grandchildren. He leaves a big void.»

Born in Poland in 1944, Lindbergh grew up in Duisburg, Germany, where he made his first steps as a photographer before moving to Paris in 1978 to pursue his career. I was lucky to work with Peter Lindbergh at an early stage in my career. Being a young editor at German MARIE CLAIRE magazine, he shot a lot for us under the creative helmet of our fashion director Florentine Pabst. Thanks to her, I was able to meet and observe the work of such amazing talented people, like him or Karl Lagerfeld.

This cover shoot for British VOGUE in January 1990 was one the reasons why I wanted to become a fashion editor. I was 14 at that time and was dreaming to pursue this career that thankfully became true. Thank you, Peter!

Renowned for his cinematic, elegant style, his iconic January 1990 cover shoot for British Vogue, featuring Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford, Lindbergh is considered to have launched the phenomenon of the supermodel. The creative photographer was also known for his firm stance against re-touching, something that is hard to imagine in today’s world of filters and photoshop.

Peter Lindbergh, IWC Schaffhausen campaign, 2011

Other high-profile works of his include the three Pirelli calendars, in 1996, 2002 and 2017, the advertising campaigns for IWC Schaffhausen and the portraits of actresses such as Lupita Nyong’o, Helen Mirren and Uma Thurman.

British Vogue’s September 2019 issue shares «Forces for Change» covers by Peter Lindbergh.

Before working on Meghan, Duchess of Sussex’s guest-edited edition of British Vogue, he photographed her for the cover of Vanity Fair in 2017. Earlier this year, he shot musician Rosalía for the cover of Vogue España, as well as model Gigi Hadid for Vogue Arabia.

In the introduction to his 2018 photography book «Shadows on the Wall,» he wrote, «It should be a duty for every photographer working today to use his creativity and influence to free women and everyone from the terror of youth and perfection.» Amen to that!

Rest in peace, Peter! You will be missed…

LoL, Sandra

Peter Lindbergh, Vogue 1991

Peter Lindbergh, Vogue, August 1988

Iconic: Anna Winter’s first VOGUE cover photographed by Peter Lindbergh, November, 1988

One of my favorite photos: Nadja Auermann photographed by Peter Lindbergh for German MARIE CLAIRE, June 1996

Devon Aoki photographed by Peter Lindbergh for German MARIE CLAIRE, April 2001

Meghan Markte photographed by Peter Lindbergh for Vanity Fair, October 2017

Photos: Peter Lindbergh / Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery
Via VOGUE, © Sandra Bauknecht

My dear readers, it is very important that you read until the end of this post as a very special treat is waiting for you to celebrate 9 years of my blog! I am convinced you will love it…

The idea of the concept store is by no means unheard of nowadays. In 1990 the first one of this kind opened its doors in Milan, 10 Corso Como, followed by Opening Ceremony, Colette and Dover Street Market, just to name a few.

The new VOGUE concept store inside the OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

What is a concept store? A 360 degrees experience, a type of living magazine, offering a unique mix of art, fashion, one-of-a-kind homeware and accessories. Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Germany, takes the idea a step further. The tall blonde has been dedicated to supporting emerging talent within the fashion industry since many years. In 2011, she launched the VOGUE Salon, an initiative to grant up-and-coming German fashion designers the opportunity to present exclusive collections to industry opinion leaders. It takes place twice a year during Berlin Fashion Week.

With Christiane Arp, Editor-in-Chief of VOGUE Germany, at the VOGUE concept store opening.

Now, Christiane Arp takes her engagement a step further. Looking for new ways for print media to attract readers and to create attention for the brand itself, she had the idea to launch the VOGUE Concept Store in cooperation with OUTLETCITY METZINGEN.

From left to right: Tim Labenda, David Tomaszewski, Marina Hoermanseder, William Fan, Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon, Wolfang Bauer (CEO OUTLETCITY METZINGEN) and Christiane Arp.

Chosen for their one-of-a-kind viewpoints and unparalleled talent were Marina Hoermanseder (click here for a previous post about her collaboration with EOS), Tim Labenda, Dawid Tomaszewski, Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon and William Fan. The pieces of the respective designers, which are not older than three months, were bought by OUTLETCITY METZINGEN, which is operating the store in collaboration with VOGUE that is in charge for the marketing and advertising in return. Christiane Arp herself made the selection.

Always at work – here during the fashion show.

It is a win-win situation – a great way to support emerging talents in Germany. The young designers receive through the sale enough money to invest in their next collection.

The pop-up store will be there for six month until April 2019. Inside, you can find many interactive and augmented reality features such as ideas how to style the pieces. Moreover, via your smartphones, you can access information about the designers themselves and their inspirations.

The bestseller that night was definitely the VOGUE logo tops, sweatshirts that came with the latest issue of VOGUE Germany.

Catching up with longtime friends at the opening: Ingrid Hedley, Marketing Director VOGUE & AD Architectural Digest, and Marina Hoermanseder.

And when you are wondering why VOGUE opened in Metzingen in an outlet mall, that seems to be in the middle of nowhere, remember where Carla Sozzani opened her 10 Corso Como shop almost 30 years ago. The location seemed very far away to the people and it was not glamorous at all with its concrete floor. At the time, Via Monte Napoleone was considered the only shopping street. You have to think in new ways, especially print media… the same goes for blogging by the way.

Before it’s in Fashion, it’s in VOGUE! or let’s say now in the VOGUE concept store! And before that of course in Sandra’s Closet :-)!

To celebrate the 9th anniversary of my blog, I have a treat for you. When I was at the opening party of the VOGUE concept store, I was truly overwhelmed by the size and the design of the the OUTLETCITY METZINGEN. Personally speaking, some stores look so much better and are bigger than in Zurich. I attached a few pictures for you below. The collections on display are from S/S 2018 with prices marked down up to 70%.

Metzingen is not far from Stuttgart in Germany. The little village is dedicated to its OUTLETCITY. You can find many hotels and restaurants. If you prefer staying in Stuttgart, no problem, there are bus transfers for Metzingen, leaving from most of the hotels.

Toasting with Christina Gobil at the opening of the VOGUE concept store to 9 years of Sandra’s Closet!

HERE COMES MY ANNIVERSARY TREAT FOR YOU:

As my dear reader, you are entitled to the VIP Shopping Pass:
Mention «Sandra’s Closet» when you arrive at the International Service Point, located at Reutlinger Strasse 58, 72555 Metzingen, Germany.
You will receive a VIP Shopping Pass, a welcome Winzersekt (a vintner’s sparkling wine – German kind of champagne) and a coffee voucher. The VIP Shopping Pass offers also an extra 10% discount at the Vogue Concept Store and other participating stores.
The offer is valid until March 31st, 2019.

Have fun shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Bottega Veneta in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Prada in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Jimmy Choo in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

Gucci in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN

The Burberry shop in OUTLETCITY METZINGEN has already the new logo.

The whole area looks like one of those amazing gigantic US shopping malls.

Photos: Courtesy of VOGUE, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN and © Sandra Bauknecht 

This year marks the 20th anniversary of the brutal murder of Gianni Versace in broad daylight in Miami Beach. I will never forget this moment when I saw the news on TV. I was studying fashion design and was at home working on one of my first assignments. At this time, Versace was big. We all dreamt of butterfly prints, safety pins, tight dresses and many more…

Gorgeous as her mother in the nineties… Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford, on the Versace S/S 2018 catwalk.

This week, Donatella Versace chose to stage her S/S 2018 show at Milan’s Triennale museum as a tribute to her late brother’s Gianni’s inspirations and creations. And so, for the first time since being the creative director of the company, she seeked inspiration directly from the house’s archives with all the key prints and pieces from the years 1991–95.

Versace in the ’90s

As I said those years marked the highlights of Gianni Versace’s designs. His most iconic collections included Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Icons, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies.

Beautiful finale of the S/S 2018 Versace: Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christensen posing in classic Versace chainmail dresses.

To celebrate «a genius . . . an icon . . . my brother» as Donatella said, the show fulminated in a finale that brought tears to my eyes. Gianni’s favorite models, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christensen, appeared in golden gowns on stage, to the chorus of George Michael’s «Freedom! ’90.» Front row? Alessandro Michele, Anthony Vaccarello and Pierpaolo Piccioli applauded to Donatella’s tribute to the late master of fashion.

Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Burlington lipsynching to George Michael’s «Freedom 90» for the finale of Gianni’s Versace’s F/W 1991 show. Back then fashion was truly fun!

The era of the top models: Gianni Versace surrounded by them in 1991.

A beautiful Versace ad campaign from the ’90s.

This moment reminded me why I chose many years ago the direction of fashion and how much the work of Gianni Versace in the ’90s had inspired me to do so.

Thank you, Donatella, for this little reminder, we all sometimes need in this busy life! And thank God that I have kept everything in my closet… time to dust the butterflies off…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue.com and Rex Features

Some of you might remember this dress as I wore it to the MCM store opening in Zurich last May. It has been one of my favourite looks this summer and I loved changing the accessories for it. When I wore it during New York Fashion Week to the Ralph Lauren Collection S/S 2014 show, it created a huge buzz among the street style photographers as you can see below and even Stefano Gabbana in person twittered and liked it on Instagram. What an honor for a Dolce & Gabbana lover like me!

My look: Printed crepe dress by Dolce & Gabbana, green suede sandals and Rasoir sunglasses by Miu Miu, Bamboo leather shopper tote by Gucci, Hapi leather bracelet by Hermès, Atlas silver bangles by Tiffany & Co., Limelight Gala watch and rose diamond ring, both by Piaget.

LoL, Sandra

Vogue

Fabsugar

Photos: Via Vogue, Imaxtree and © Sandra Bauknecht

Today, three years ago, I published my first post and Sandra’s Closet was born. My blog has taken me on such a beautiful adventure. I would like to thank you all for following me and supporting my work. Without you, the success wouldn’t have been possible.

This year was so exciting for me, I walked in my first runway show during Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, designed a T-shirt in collaboration with Closed and hosted a beautiful dinner at my house for the new Caviar & Oyster collection by Bobbi Brown. There were so many other highlights, it would take too long to name them all. A very big one will follow this year, stay tuned for an event with Montblanc in December to celebrate the launch of something truly amazing. To whet your appetite, there has never been anything like it…

Below are some press features of me during Paris Fashion Week that I have meant to show since a pretty long time. Enjoy!

Featured in Marie Claire: Me in Mary Katrantou’s beautiful Ivory dress.

Featured in Marie Claire: Me at the last day of Paris Fashion Week.

This look was also seen in Harper’s Bazaar.

French Vogue showed some details of my look that I wore to the Valentino S/S 2013 show.

Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis wrote in her column for American Vogue about our fun trip to Mary Katrantzou’s showroom (all the details to be posted soon).

The gang: Eugenie Niarchos, Sandra Bauknecht, Elena Perminova, Miroslava Duma, Mary Katrantzou, Tamu McPherson, Elisa Nalin, Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis and Viviana Volpicella.

Featured on Treetslook at the Stella McCartney S/S 2013 show.

OMG! On Fausto Puglisi’s website, I am featured among celebrities such as Beyoncé, Katy Perry and Madonna. Scroll through!

This weekend, I will publish some amazing contests. Please stay tuned to find out more about the great prizes that you can win during the next two days.

LoL, Sandra

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle – Dior‘s 60th anniversary couture show.

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
2 Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
3 Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra

Editors of Vogue from around the world converge today in Tokyo for a very special Fashion’s Night Out event in a bid to boost spirits and sales following the earthquake and tsunami which devastated Japan earlier this year.

For the first time Vogue editors from all its magazines across the world joined forces for Fashion’s Night Out Japan. Led by American Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, who conceived of Fashion’s Night Out in the midst of the 2009 economic crisis, the editors represent the 18 countries where Vogue is published.

On the photo: Host editor, Mitsuko Watanabe, Editor of Japanese Vogue; Anna Wintour, Editor of American Vogue; Franca Sozzani, Editor of Italian Vogue; Alexandra Shulman, Editor of British Vogue; Emmanuelle Alt, Editor of French Vogue; Angelica Cheung, Editor of Vogue China; Christiane Arp, Editor of German Vogue; Yolanda Sacristan, Editor of Spanish Vogue; Viktoria Davydova, Editor of Vogue Russia; Kirstie Clements, Editor of Australian Vogue; Eva Hughes, Editor of Mexican and Latin American Vogue; Paula Mateus, Editor of Portuguese Vogue; Myung Hee Lee, Editor of Vogue Korea; Seda Domanic, Editor of Vogue Turkey; Rosalie Huang, Editor at Large of Vogue Taiwan: Anaita Adajania, Acting Editor of Indian Vogue, and Anna Harvey, Vice President and Editorial Director of Conde Nast New Markets, who will represent Vogue Brazil and Greek Vogue.

Jonathan Newhouse, Chairman of Condé Nast International, said, “The presence of all the Vogue editors in Tokyo underscores Condé Nast’s deep commitment to this market. Japan is a key market for the fashion industry, and we will give it the maximum support possible as the country recovers.”
Anna Wintour commented, “Japan is a major player in the global fashion community, both as supports and wonderful contributors to it. The country’s educated consumers and its designers – from supremely inventive established names such as Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe, to exciting new labels such as Sacai – invigorate our world. We are thrilled to support and celebrate Japan’s far-reaching influence and creativity with a very special Fashion’s Night Out in Tokyo.”

Asia is the future…

LoL, Sandra

Photo: Frederic Aranda for Vogue

Not hard to tell, I love everything fashion-related. Fashion magazines, fashion photography have been fascinating me since my childhood and I was always eager to work in that field. Vogue has been my bible since then. Over 25 years ago, I have started collecting US, German, Italian, UK and French Vogue issues. My archive is complete and had even moved with me over the Atlantic ocean and back. Do you know how much paper weighs?!

Me in my archive, Photo: © SI Style

Therefore I couldn’t be happier about Voguepedia, “the little baby of Wikipedia and Vogue”, that has been launched in May this year.  The archive is supposed to cover the magazine’s 119 year history, with hopefully every issue catalogued one day. At the moment, the encyclopedia of all things Vogue is far from being complete but still lots of fun to browse through. Gosh, how I would have loved something like this during my studies…

I think that it is a smart move of Vogue to attract the younger generation that is more online-orientated and far away from  a print media nostalgia…

Click here to take Voguepedia out on a test drive.

LoL, Sandra

To celebrate online shopping, there is going to be tonight (starting at 5pm London time) the first edition of Vogue Fashion’s Night In. Many retailers are joining in the fun with special gifts, promotions and more.
For a detailed list, please click here.

Enjoy shopping!

LoL, Sandra