Another great talent has left us. French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier (21 August 1943 – 31 March 2022) has died today. His imagery helped write the history of 1990s fashion.
Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, Demarchelier spent his childhood in Le Havre, Normandy, with his mother and four brothers. His profession was self-taught. For his seventeenth birthday, his stepfather bought him his first camera. Demarchelier learned how to develop film, retouch negatives and began photographing friends and weddings.
Natalia Vodianova in Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, October 2008
In 1975, Demarchelier left Paris for New York City, United States to follow his girlfriend. He discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer learning from, and working with photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. Since the late 1970s he shot the covers for nearly every major fashion magazine including American, British and Paris Vogue, as well as Harper’s Bazaar. He also shot international advertising campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, CHANEL, Donna Karan, Yves Saint Laurent, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Moschino, Vera Wang, Elizabeth Arden, H&M, Sam Edelman, Zara, Max Azria, Express, Longchamp, Blumarine, Lacoste, Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
Lady Diana photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in 1990
However, he is perhaps best known for his intimate portraits of Princess Diana that helped establish her popularity and accessible public image.
In 2007, Christine Albanel, French Minister of Culture, honoured Demarchelier as an Officer in l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Order of Arts and Literature), the same year that he received the CFDA Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert. Demarchelier also appeared in the film «The September Issue» and can be glimpsed in «The Sex & the City movie».
With his son Victor, who works also as a photographer.
Despite a rich and deep legacy, in 2018 amidst the #MeToo reckoning, Demarchelier was accused by seven models who worked with him of sexual harassment. In response to the allegations, Condé Nast announced: «We have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future. Demarchelier denied the allegations.» However, he had never been charged and denied the allegations.
Demarchelier is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons, and three grandchildren.
LoL, Sandra
30 years later, still one of my favorite Vogue covers of all times, famous supermodels on the magazine’s 100th anniversary cover. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, April 1992
Christy Turlington in Azzedine Alaïa.
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue US, May 1991
Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, May 1998
Christy Turlington
Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Harper’s Bazaar US, July 1999
Photos: Via Vogue Harper’s Bazaar, Sothebys © Patrick Demarchelier
