Sandra‘s Closet

For Talbot Runhof‘s  F/W 2012 collection, the designer duo seeked inspiration from the 1998 movie Great Expectations starring Ethan Hawke, Gwyneth Paltrow and Anne Bancroft, the latter of whom, impressed the most with her masterful performance of Nora Dinsmoor.

“Deserted on her wedding day as a young woman. Her garden still decorated and waiting in vain, in anticipation of a celebration. Covered in a verdant mélange of foliage, a daily affirmation of her life, her sadness, her passion, swirling through the decaying rooms of her home to her hymn of hope: Bésame mucho. She (Anne Bancroft as Nora Dinsmoor) was the inspiration for our F/W 2012 collection!“

Talbot Runhof is the German red carpet label worn by A-listers all over the world. Famous celebrities such as Angelina Jolie or Halle Berry have been spotted in their elegant and feminine designs. Today, their creations are sold in the best stores worldwide, among them Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

The success story started in 1991 when Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof met in Munich. Discovering their mutual passion for fashion they decided to join forces and began designing collections together under the label All about Eve. In the year 2000 the brand was renamed Talbot Runhof. They both share interesting and unusual backgrounds:

Johnny with me backstage before the show

Johnny Talbot, born 1964 in Nashville Tennessee, USA, studied electrical engineering and worked as systems manager for the U.S. government before he decided to become a fashion designer.

Adrian giving an interview before the show

Adrian Runhof, born 1963 in Mainz, Germany, studied business administration after growing up in a family of fashion producers and retailers and worked every since in the fashion business.

Before the show, I went backstage, so please enjoy the photos.

The collection is all about green: From ivy to oak, from acorn to gingko, birch to maple. Colour nuances of chartreuse to olive, emerald to evergreen, turquoise to jade, moss to bronze.

Famous MAC makeup artist Romero Jennings at work creating the feminine, elegant makeup look in a gorgeous green colour palette.

Me front row at the show

Among my favourites are the stretch suede skin tight leggings and the evening gowns of net lace, hologram sequins combined with layers of chiffon. Leaf applications adorn necklines, tops and dresses. Tweed appears soft and luxurious.

Accessories include booties, booty sandals, platform pumps, or peep-toes of tweed and of printed satin. Matching baguette clutches of velvet, tweed, printed satin embroidered with metallic borders, leaf motives, patchwork belts of matt shiny nappa.

And now enjoy the show! Talbot Runhof have fulfilled the great expectations, haven’t they?!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Here are more interesting fashion news!
Yves Saint Laurent‘s press office announced earlier: “Today we announce the departure of Creative Director Stefano Pilati, who since 2004 has stood at the creative helm of the house. Please join us in saluting him for his extraordinary work and his determination in forwarding the awe-inspiring heritage of Monsieur Saint Laurent.
Stefano’s final fashion show – F/W 2012 womenswear – will take place next Monday, March 5, 2012 in Paris.”

Raf Simons, who showed his final collection for Jil Sander in Milan, was rumored to have been Pilati’s replacement. While French newswire AFP and French magazine L’Express both had reported Hedi Slimane, who designed menswear at YSL in the late 1990s before taking over Dior Homme, will replace Pilati. Let’s see you will make it!

The fashion carrousel is turning fast at the moment…

LoL, Sandra

It is Milan Fashion Week but the buzz is all about something else. As you know, I am in Florence with Gucci at the moment and during the day all those twitter messages came in that Raf Simons, Creative Director of Jil Sander since 2005, has confirmed he will be stepping down following the F/W 2012 show this Saturday. This is breaking fashion news!

Rumours are out and huge that the avant-garde Belgian designer will take over Dior succeeding Galliano who left last year after his anti-Semitic comments. Looking closely at Raf’s S/S 2012 collection for Jil Sander, you could totally see some Dior references (see above), so let’s see if the speculations are true or not… At the moment, Dior collections are created under the supervision of Bill Gaytten, Galliano’s former studio head.

But it gets better: It is looking more and more like Jil Sander, herself at age 68, will return to the eponymous label that she founded in 1968. All good things go in threes: The German designer, who sold in 1999 75 percent of her company to the Prada Group, left the label in 2000 after a falling out with the owner, Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli. Later, following a brief return in 2003, she departed again and began working on other projects, such as the very popular high street collaboration with Uniqlo. If she comes back now, it will hopefully be for good!

This will be a very interesting week…

LoL, Sandra

You cannot be everywhere… The same day I flew to Paris for the amazing shoot with Dior, I was also invited to London for another special event.

La Mania – the Polish fashion house under the Honorary Patronage of Karl Lagerfeld – and Galerie Gmurzynska hosted a multimedia event, so-called “Fairy Tale Mania”, presenting La Mania’s F/W 2012 collection and exhibiting the new work of artist Marco Perego. You might recognize Perego’s work from last year’s post when I met him in Zurich.

In case you haven’t heard of La Mania before, here are some facts. The label is the brainchild of Joanna Przetakiewicz, launched in 2010 with the one-of-a-kind blessing by her friend Karl Lagerfeld who has been offering guidance and inspiration to the Polish designer. Joanna is not only wearing her designs, she is also one of the rare Haute Couture clients in the world. The last time I saw her, was at the Stéphane Rolland show in Paris.

The exhibition “Fairy Tale Mania” is open to the public until the end of February at the Royal Opera Arcade Gallery, 5b Pall Mall, London SW1 (free entry). It represents Poland in the International Fashion Showcase project, organized by British Council and British Fashion Council as part of London Fashion Week.

Below you can see some photos of the event in London.

LoL, Sandra

Marco Perego
MY SOUL: Don’t leave me empty…
Painted metal, resin
2011

Isabelle Bscher, daughter of Krystyna Gmurzynska, and artist Marco Perego

Lapo Elkann, Zaha Hadid and Marco Perego

Joanna Przetakiewicz with models in her F/W 2012 collection

Joanna Przetakiewicz with her partner Jan Kulczyk, a prominent Polish business oligarch

Mathias Rastorfer, Zaha Hadid, Isabelle Bscher and Krystyna Gmurzynska
Photos: © Brauer

Finally I can reveal the exciting news: I am flying to New York tomorrow morning to walk the runway myself during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

Polyvore and Covergirl have teamed up for an amazing fashion show to present the collections of four up and coming FIT graduates. “Prominent fashion bloggers” will walk the catwalk and I am so excited to be among them. The Polyvore Live runway show also will stream live on Polyvore.com, offering virtual access to more than 13 million people across the globe.

Here are the four FIT alumni designers that were selected by Polyvore and FIT’s Alumni Affairs:

1 – Lauren Bagliore received a BS in Fashion Merchandising Management in 2005, after which she worked at Vivienne Westwood, Zac Posen, Libertine, Tod’s, and Paul Hardy. Bagliore recently established her own clothing line, Lauren Bagliore Design House. Her designs are noted for their draping and unique combination of edgy yet wearable sensibilities.

2 – Vengsarkar Budhu received a BFA in Fashion Design in 2006. Specializing in eveningwear, he was selected by Reem Acra as the critic award winner for special occasion wear in FIT’s annual BFA Fashion Show. Budhu has started his own eveningwear label, GAVASKAR.

3 – Sergio Guadarrama received a BFA in Fashion Design in 2008. While still a student, he launched his label, Celestino. In 2008, he won “The Best in Class – Execution” in the FIT Supima Design Competition. In 2010, he served as a critic for the annual FIT BFA Fashion Show, along with a group of designers that included Calvin Klein and Carolina Herrera.
Sergio is known for his uncanny ability to create season-less eveningwear and has crafted gowns for the Metropolitan Opera.

4 –Dana-Maxx Pomerantz received a BFA in Fashion Design in 2005. After working for Betsey Johnson and Marc Jacobs, she established her eponymous clothing line, Dana-Maxx. She was selected as one of Women’s Wear Daily’s “Hot New Designers” and was featured on ELLE Magazine Creative Director Joe Zee’s hit television show, All on the Line.

Stay tuned for many exciting posts from New York Fashion Week!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Polyvore

A formal statement has been released by net-à-porter.com: Karl Lagerfeld’s exclusive new collection will be revealed on January 25, 2011. To sign up for Karl’s Kult, please click here.

LoL, Sandra

Recently, I was invited to an evening at the V&A museum in London with legendary French shoe designer Christian Louboutin, whom I had met earlier this year at La Soirée Monégasque in Monaco, and Net-à-porter founder Natalie Massenet. The event was linked to the launch of his first book and the 20th anniversary of the Louboutin empire.

On Nov 21st, 1991 Christian Louboutin opened his first store at the age of 27. Now 20 years later, he still lives his passion for shoes.  Louboutin is a very interesting man and a true latitudinarian.

He was expelled from 3 schools, he ran away from home at the age of 12 and grew up in a household with many women, 4 sisters and his mom who gave him a lot of support and encouraged him to follow his dreams. At an early age, he had already developed an obsession for burlesque clubs and showgirls that has inspired him all his life.

Christian Louboutin with me…

…signing the book with a personal dedication for me.

Meet Christian Louboutin and enjoy this insight into his world and life.

On happiness

“I don’t know how to be unhappy in life. This is a natural element that I have. For me, it helps me with my work. This is the great thing about designing, it should bring happiness.”

On destiny

“I don’t believe in destiny. I have loved drawing shoes from an early age but never thought that this would become my job.”

On his childhood

„I learned a lot from my sisters and my mum. Women behave differently when they are by themselves and when there is no man around. I never thought that I had a special childhood but I had. My mum was very supportive and gave me complete freedom. She believed that it is important to be brought up in love. She was beautiful, even though her shoes weren’t. She was definitely not a shoe person!“

On shoes

“A shoe has so much more to offer than just to walk. Shoes are bringing posture to the whole body. They change the way you are walking, standing, behaving. They give you confidence. A customer once said while trying on a pair of my heels: ‘Look, I’m completely transformed and it’s cheaper than a facelift!’ “

On his first success

“It was a flat shoe, the Love shoe”. Like the love birds that cannot be separated, I designed them. Only if you put the two shoes together, they are complete. I only sold those shoes in the first season and they were a huge success.”

On his favourite heel height

“Ain’t no high heel high enough!” (started singing)

On his favourite shoe

“If there was only one shoe to be made, it would have to be a pump. It is like a beautiful face without make-up. If you have a good pump, the rest is make-up.”

On Princess Caroline of Monaco

“Caroline is the second fairy in my life. Caroline came in my store at a very early stage in December 1991. A journalist who did a story on new shops was by coincidence there and when she spotted Caroline, she wrote a huge article that brought me many buyers and sales went up.”

On Folies Bergère

“I love Burlesque dancers. At the Folies Bergère, I saw all the shows, knew all the girls. So I decided to design for them. At one stage, I was even an intern at the Folies Bergère.”

On the importance of the red sole

“It is my signature, it is clear how important it is. But now I don’t even think about it anymore. It is a funny story how it started. During my designing process for my third collection, I was thinking a lot of Andy Warhol, pop art, bright colours. The first prototype arrived and I was very happy with it, with the heel proportion, a Mary Jane with a big huge flower. Still, I was looking at the drawing and at the shoe, and something was missing. Looking at the sole, it was all black which was not on my drawing because you didn’t see the sole. Sarah, a model, was sitting on the floor and painted her nails in red. I grabbed the polish from her and started to paint the soles. The magic took place. The sole is like a message, the red a signal.”

On sex

“You really need to be a criminal or a pervert to shock me! It is sad but you can even be sexy in bad shoes. Sexy is coming from a certain attitude.”

On independence

“I am very happy to not be a part of a big luxury company and do not plan to change it, because I enjoy my freedom very much. Freedom means a lot to me.”

On toe cleavage

“It is one of the important aspects of my designs, mainly because it gives the impression of longer legs. While working with the show girls, I learnt a lot. They are very specific with their shoes. Good balance is indispensable and to be able to dance while having the longest legs possible. This inspired me to create more toe cleavage.”

On his favourite thing to do

“Working.”

On his favourite colour

“Red.”

On his favourite quality in a person

“Tolerance and enthusiasm.”

On his nick name

“Laporo, Loubi, Bottinos or Los Bottinos which I hate.”

If I whet your appetite for a little Sunday shopping, you will find a great wish list below (just click here to be transferred). Channel Christian’s joie de vivre and enjoy your new shoes!

LoL, Sandra

Last night, she won the Emerging Talent Award (ready to wear) at the British Fashion Awards in London, last week she took me out to lunch. I am talking about Mary Katrantzou, one of the hottest names in London’s fashion scene. As for me, she is the most innovative designer at the moment and as you know, I am a huge fan of her.

Her creations are different and new. Mary’s unbelievable talent to use bold, overall prints has been a huge influence on today’s fashion. For S/S 2012, many designers have seeked inspiration from her iconic arty florals, expressive colours and patchwork prints.

If you are wondering how can floral prints can be new, have a look at Mary’s flower power for S/S 2012. They are strong, unexpected, surreal and make fashionistas drool over it. The show in September was truly divine with a catwalk divided by a tennis court long field of carnations.

My favourite look by Mary Katrantzou for S/S 2012: “Battle Royal”
I adore that every dress gets its own name!

Last Wednesday, Mary took me to lunch to the Greenhouse restaurant in Mayfair that I can only recommend. Great interior design and awesome food.

We were sitting for hours, talked about her upcoming projects and about daily life. Mary’s birthday is only two days before mine and we loved that we are both aquarius. The 28-year-old was born and raised in Greece but loves living in London. She is a true fashion visionary, a print-cess charming and a wonderful refreshingly unpretentious young woman.

Mary Katrantzou is already hugely influential even though her label is just three years old. She won last year’s Swiss Textiles Award, her designs can be found in the most distinguished shops around the world and celebrities show up on the red carpet in them. If you think that the hype has overwhelmed her, you are absolutely mistaken.

She was so happy to see me in her Serendipity dress that by the way made a huge appearance this week on Gossip Girl. In the last episode, Serena wore this stunner to Blair’s bridal shower. Cocktail or lunch, the dress is a must around the clock!

Photo: Courtesy of The CW, © Getty Images

More testaments to Katrantzou’s reach and importance are her upcoming collaborations next year:

In January, Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp will be launched. The theme for this amazing S/S 2012 bag collection is “East meets West”. A must-have for all print lovers and for those who have been eagerly waiting for a Mary Katrantzou handbag!

Extremely exciting is the news of a second Mary Katrantzou for Topshop collection to be released in February next year. The first prototype was unveiled at the Topshop press day a few weeks ago, and even it was not supposed to go public, one photo has made its way around the globe. Doesn’t it look so promising?!

Please stay tuned, will keep you posted!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, © Style.com, Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou, Longchamp and Topshop

Tomorrow, the Versace for H&M collection will officially hit 300 stores worldwide (in the US on November 19th), so ladies and gentlemen be prepared to line up in the morning.

Last week in NYC, I got the pleasure to meet Donatella Versace and H&M’s creative advisor Margareta van den Bosch who sat down for a chat with Tim Blanks, Style.com’s editor-at-large, at the top floor of the Dream Downtown hotel.

Find out a little bit more about the collection and which one is Donatella’s favourite look. Believe it or not…Donatella even revealed that she likes shopping at H&M.

Margareta van den Bosch, Donatella Versace and Tim Blanks

What does this collaboration mean to you?

D.V.: It was very emotional for me to go through the archives to explore all the looks that Gianni created. It is an amazing way to reach the younger crowd. I am working closely with Lady Gaga or Nicki Menaj. It is great to collaborate with such dedicated artists who have so many followers. Gianni would be so proud to see his clothes worn by younger kids. This is an homage to Gianni.
I was scared to take over the reins from him when he died. I had to gain the credibility from the rest of the world.

Looking at your own shows, you are reenergized creatively. You are working with the Fringe London, Lady Gaga? Calling this a Versace moment, why do you think this was all coming together now?

D.V.: For me it is a fantasic moment. I talk and follow young designers. I am very interested in them and they are very interested in me. A house like Versace has a lot of history they can profit from but I am learning a lot, too. I am open to different opinions. Fashion is every day an exam. After all those years of minimalism, Versace and its luxury are back!

Margareta, did you feel a Versace moment as well?

M.v.d.B.: Yes, definitely. This is a different collaboration from what we did before with all those colours and prints, leather and studs. The essence of the house Versace was truly there.

Donatella, were you surprised when you went through your archives even that you know them well?

D.V.: I was amazed to see how Gianni did everything – I am sorry to say – before everybody else. I see a lot of homage to Versace today as for example young designer Riccardo Tisci did for the Givenchy F/W 2011 collection (looking at me as I was wearing a dress from this collection). But this is enough now. It is my turn, this is my homage to Versace!

Didn’t you have to make a concession?

D.V.: This was the best thing to work with H&M, there was no concession. There are fantastic people in this company. They said yes to everything, I never got a no. It has been a fantastic liberating moment. Just the amount of sketches surprised the team. 
31 looks were asked and I created 43 looks for the runway, from the chokers and the bracelets with the Medusa, flowers from Miami, printed jeans and skirts, leather, the high heels, nothing is missing.

Margareta, what are the criteria for a collaboration? Isn’t H&M and Versace at two comletely different ends? And how do you get started?

M.v.d.B.: It is very much a feeling that we discuss in-house. If we agree, we go for it. We had the first meeting and talked about the collection. We decided something little. When the second meeting took place with the teams around the products, like buyers, people for the packaging and many others, I expected some sketches but Donatella had everything ready. It was fantastic as we always have a lack of time.

Margareta, you said the time was right for Versace, what do you mean with that?

M.v.d.B.: Fashion should be something that makes you happy. This collaboration is about a dream, to give people the spirit of luxury. We try to make it as close to the brand as possible. Maximalism, colours, prints, everything is back. It is an optimistic upbeat collection even that you see all the bad news in Europe.

And how about you, Donatella? What do you think?

D.V.: It is a dream of luxury, for example when you touch the studded leather coat from the Versace for H&M collaboration or the original from the archives, you don’t know which one is the real one.

Donatella Versace with me

What is this collaboration about? Which impact will the collection have on H&M or Versace? Will it change your own work?

D.V.: I had that clear idea what to do, of the look that young people want. Fashion is freedom today. Technology plays a fantastic role and H&M uses it in an amazing way. It is interesting to see how young people put things together and that everything goes.

M.v.d.B.: Fashion is about expressing your individuality. This collaboration is about giving the customers something new and showing that you don’t need a huge budget to look good. We are very professional and have all the knowledge. We included for the first time homewear because it is part of the Versace look, as well as jewelry. I mean there is no Versace collection without jewelry. We have two different cushions, a blanket and many different jewelry pieces.

Which one is your favourite piece in the collection?

D.V.: I have 43 favourite babies.

M.v.d.B.: The studded leather dress and the rings.

________________

If I were you, I would definitely get a piece with the tropical print as this is a huge trend among the upcoming Cruise 2012 collections from the likes of Stella McCartney, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Givenchy.

And don’t forget to enter the contest to win the amazing purple one-of-a-kind Versace for H&M dress! Deadline is tonight! Good luck!

And rumours are out that the next collaboration might be with Tom Ford, OMG!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

As the culmination of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Show Friday night in Zurich, Talbot Runhof showed their beautiful S/S 2012 collection.

The Munich-based label was born under Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof. The best way to describe their style is to focus on their attention to craftsmanship and detail and their exquisite couture cuts. A Paris Fashion Week regular and often seen on the red carpets, their billowing gowns and playful creations present a sophisticated, feminine glamour.

Talbot Runhof can be found in the best boutiques all over the world, including leading American department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and at Harrods in the UK.

Johnny Talbot to the left and Adrian Runhof to the right with me.

Before the fashion show, I went backstage to talk to the designer duo. Enjoy!

Adrian,  how does it feel to be here in Switzerland to present your collection?

I love Switzerland, I am often here. Therefore it is so exciting for us to have a show tonight. We have many fans among the Swiss and sell very well in Switzerland.

Please tell me something about your inspiration for the S/S 2012 collection that we are going to see tonight!

Christian Lacroix has designed the costumes for the Munich Opera recently. This has inspired us, not the costumes themselves, but the early stage of Lacroix. When we got started in the Nineties, Lacroix played such a major part in our fashion history. Later, he lost it, his creations became overloaded. His golden age was marked by his ability to mix and match patterns and fabrics, as well as his amazing colour combinations. And this has inspired us!

Do you have any Swiss woman that you would like to dress?

Actually yes and we dress her tonight: Sarina Arnold. She will open the show and will present the final look, too.

Sarina Arnold opened the show in a bright floral dress

What are your future plans?

(Both smiling.) Who knows? We have created for the first time bags and shoes and will take it from there.

The shoes are amazing!

Below you can see my favourite looks from the show. I took some details shots of the fabrics and details backstage for you to see the wonderful craftsmanship. Have fun!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht