Sandra‘s Closet

Today more coming up from Arles as on May 30th, 2018, Gucci showed its Cruise 2019 women’s and men’s show by Alessandro Michele also there. Revealed in an evocative setting of the ancient site of Les Alyscamps, a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of the world’s most renowned Roman necropoleis, which provided a remarkable backdrop for this beautiful collection. This followed Alessandro’s previous Cruise presentations that have taken place in other culturally significant locations, including the DIA-Art Foundation in New York City, the Cloisters at Westminster Abbey in London and the Palatina Gallery in Florence’s Palazzo Pitti.

Les Alyscamps in Arles

Here are some facts about Arles which is surprisingly the largest municipality in France in terms of surface, it is located on the Mediterranean coast, in Provence, between Marseille and Montpellier. Thanks to its rich history spanning 2500 years, Arles is inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1981 for its roman monuments.

Arles

Positioned on the Rhone delta, Arles benefits from the astonishing landscape of Camargue, considered one of Europe’s most important natural areas. Arles inspired numerous artists, such as Vincent Van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. Fashion designers Louis Féraud and Christian Lacroix (please see this week’s post here) have arlesian origins, consequently culture and creation are economic drivers such as: the publishing house Actes Sud, the photography festival Les Rencontres d’Arles and LUMA Arles, who is currently building a cultural center with architects Frank Gehry and Annabelle Selldorf, in charge of the renovation of the old industrial buildings. For further information about Arles visit www.ville-arles.fr.

Impressions of the Gucci Cruise 2019 show

The city of Arles, also consistently involved in cultural initiatives, was happy to collaborate with a luxury brand such as Gucci. This was the first time that the ancient site of Alyscampshas hosted an event of this caliber. Indeed, one could imagine no better publicity for the city, which is enjoying a renaissance, thanks in large part to Swiss art patron Maja Hoffmann, who was also among the guests at the show along with Christian Lacroix.

Hoffmann has enlisted Canadian-born architect Frank Gehry to build a 185-foot tower that will be the center point of her Luma art foundation, opened in 2013. The sprawling site, with an estimated cost of 150 million euros, also encompasses abandoned rail yards that have been renovated and now house exhibitions. The heir of the pharmaceutical giant Roche has invested extensively in the city, renovating two local hotels, the Hôtel d’Arlatan and the Hôtel du Cloître, and also owns the Michelin-starred organic restaurant La Chassagnette in the neighboring Camargue region.

Please find below some of the best looks from Gucci’s Cruise 2019 collection, for which creative director Alessandro Michele was obviously «fascinated by the idea of death». A haunted runway with lots of cross necklaces, Victorian references, velvet capes, neon lace tights, goth accents, and prints galore. Gucci at its best!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci

While visiting Arles yesterday, I passed by a Christian Lacroix store (photo at the end of this post) which immediately caught my eye as I had completely forgotten about the fashion house after it had been sold by LVMH to duty-free retailer Falic Fashion Group in 2005.

Visiting Arles yesterday – an inspiration for today’s post.

I had been a big fan of flamboyant Lacroix’s designs and even got married in one of his couture dresses. Personally speaking, when Christian opened his Maison, I started actively being interested in fashion and his creations inspired me a lot of what I do today.

The story of Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix was born in Arles, Bouches-du-Rhône in Southern France. At a young age he began already sketching historical costumes and fashions. In April 1987, his dream came true and he founded his own fashion house in a private mansion at 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the heart of Paris. The House of Christian Lacroix was created by the Arlesian couturier and press agent Jean-Jacques Picart, with support from Bernard Arnault. Word quickly spread throughout Paris and Christian Lacroix’s name was on everyone’s lips.

A look from Lacroix’s F/W 1987 haute couture collection.

The following 26 July, Christian Lacroix unveiled his first Haute Couture collection for F/W 1987. This first collection was a radiant, opulent, virtuosic homage to the couturier’s roots; each look was infused with Mediterranean influences. The designer revisited traditional Arlesian outfits, drawing inspiration from the toreador’s cape. He highlighted southern France’s beauty, from the Camargue to Provence, in this 60-piece collection.

This first flamboyant fashion show was wildly successful, blowing the dust off the subdued world of 1980s high fashion and turning Parisian fashion of the day on its head. It was a departure from the minimalistic look of the influential Japanese designers en vogue at that time.

Christian Lacroix F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection

At a time when fashion was focused on simplicity, Christian Lacroix chose exuberance. When black became the standard, he opted for blood red, fuchsia pink and bright yellow.

With each new collection, Christian Lacroix designed pieces that combined unusual materials and colours, adorning looks with luxurious baroque touches. He brought back touches of folklore, history and theatre, infusing them with elegance and sophistication.

Very «Like a Prayer»: Anna Wintour chose for her first Vogue cover a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with a pair of jeans. It was photographed by Peter Lindbergh and  featured Israeli Model Michaela Bercu – US Vogue Nov 1988

Anna Wintour chose a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture jacket with a simple pair of jeans for her first American Vogue cover, photographed by Peter Lindberg in 1988. This look broke all the high fashion rules, pushing it into a younger and more liberated future.

After a spectacular debut, the Lacroix phenomenon spread as if propelled by the Mistral wind, and was soon featured prominently in all the most prestigious fashion magazines around the world.

Shalom Harlow in Christian Lacroix Haute Couture photographed by Bruce Weber for Vogue US, March 1995.

Throughout the 1990s, the brand continued to grow, diversifying its portfolio with household linen, tableware and more. This diversification continued to pick up speed in the following decade.

Between 2002-2005, Lacroix served also as the Creative Director for the Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci. He left on agreeable terms as he and the house believed that since he had other pursuits, it would be unfair to the house to not put in the energy required for future collections along with his other work.

Ad Campaign F/W 1997 featuring Karen Elson photographed by Paolo Roversi

In 2005, LVMH sold the House to its current owners, the Falic family, giving it new momentum as it explored other niches while continuing the House’s previous activities. In 2009, the fashion house put the business into administration and laid off all but 12 workers. Lacroix’s F/W 2009 Haute Couture was privately financed by Lacroix and each model was paid €50.

Final finale: Christian Lacroix and Vlada Roslyakova – Haute Couture F/W 2009

As Vogue editor Sarah Mower wrote: «It was one of the most poignant and emotionally fraught haute couture shows ever: a collection produced on a shoestring at the last minute, and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix.»

«I didn’t want to cry,» said Lacroix «I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this.» Lacroix said about his last Haute Couture collection. Throughout its history, the house never turned a profit and reported a €10 million loss in 2008.

When Christian Lacroix left his position as the House’s Artistic Director in late 2009, Sacha Walckhoff, who had worked at the House since 1992, was named Creative Director. Sacha continued the House’s transformation alongside President Nicolas Topiol, extending the creative focus to decoration and lifestyle collections.

Lacroix in 2018: Designing for Desigual

Lacroix, himself, started collaborating in 2011 with the Barcelona-based clothing brand Desigual. This year, he will launch 5 mini collections for the house.

Lacroix x Nymphenburg

He also collaborated with Nymphenburg for a limited edition collection of design objects.

Interior design by Christian Lacroix: Hotel Le Bellechasse in Paris 

Moreover, Christian Lacroix has completed interior design work at several landmark hotels, including the Hotel Le Petit Moulin in Spring, 2005; the Hotel Bellechasse, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Paris), in 2007 (a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World); and in 2010 Le Notre Dame hotel just a step from the cathedral Notre-Dame-de-Paris.

The newest hotel design project by Lacroix: Julius Caesar in Arles.

In 2014, formerly a 17th century Carmelite Convent, Julius Caesar in Arles opened its doors as a boutique hotel featuring décor designed by Christian Lacroix.

The Christian Lacroix store in Arles.

Lacroix without Lacroix… the House’s Studio still produces collections in men’s fashion, accessories (scarves, sunglasses, handbags, jewellery, watches and mobile phone accessories) and lifestyle (fabrics, wallpapers, cushions, rugs, tableware, candles and stationery). But unfortunately no women’s fashion… but to be honest that is also hard to imagine without Lacroix being there himself!

Lacroix, Sweetie, Lacroix! Your are a genius…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Christian Lacroix, via Vogue and © Sandra Bauknecht

evian® x Christian Lacroix Limited Edition bottles in 2016

10 years ago, some people might have asked what were they drinking? In 2007, the disruptive vision shared by the two brands brought together the purity of water with the creativity of fashion paving the way to a saga of collaborations with the greatest designers and launching the fashionista drink of choice.

evian® x Christian Lacroix Limited Edition bottles in 2007

To celebrate this success story and to mark the 10th anniversary of the project, the House of Christian Lacroix pays tribute to evian®’s live young spirit, by reinventing the Paseo pattern. Born to Haute Couture, the delicate embroidery design was used for the first time outside the Christian Lacroix fashion collections on the initial evian® Limited Edition bottle in 2007. It has since become an iconic design of the House. This new colorful Paseo Limited Edition version is the pure expression of today’s Christian Lacroix creative universe: flamboyant, Parisian, and with an ever young spirit. It comes in a set of two bottles: a pink and a blue one.

“The evian® x Lacroix collaboration is just like a wonderful dream come true and we had the chance to collaborate twice… which makes me a very lucky designer!” Sacha Walckhoff.

The famous red bride at Christian Lacroix’s F/W 2002 Couture show.

Sacha Walckhoff, Creative Director for the House of Christian Lacroix, who succeeded the founder following the shuttering of the couture house and its transformation into a licensed business, revisited the iconic Paseo pattern that Lacroix used for the red wedding dress that capped his F/W 2002 couture show, and famously worn by Madonna in a Steven Klein shoot for W Magazine in 2003. Its skirt was based on a bullfighting cape with a pattern mixing swirling garlands, flowers and curlicues.

2003 – Madonna photographed in Christian Lacroix by Steven Klein.

The evian® x Christian Lacroix bottles will be available in 75cl glass bottles and rolled-out in Prestige PET, and for the first time in facial spray. Available worldwide in selected hotels, cafes, restaurants and retailers from September 2016.

Drinking water has never been so stylish…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of evian®, © Christian Lacroix, © Antoine Tempe and © Steven Klein

It is December 1st, are you getting antsy for Christmas? Like last year, I have created a little online Advent calendar to make the wait a bit easier. Every day I will surprise you with one or two deliciously fashionable must-haves, or an inspiration for a lovely gift, even for yourself.

Get caught up in some fabulous offerings and don’t forget to shop them fast. Some things will sell out so quickly that even Santa can’t bring them. Hello, wait list!

To celebrate the Advent season in style, Monnier Frères offers to Sandra’s Closet readers a special 10% discount from today until December 15, 2012. Enter promo code XMAS10SCL at checkout. Delivery before Christmas is guaranteed for any order placed before noon on the 20th of December, 2012.

I am not dreaming of a white Christmas but of a…
1 20 Year silk twill square by Christian Lacroix
2 Maraini Faith leather bag by Jil Sander
3 Red hat by Borsalino
4 Tuyet embroidered clutch by Balmain

Have fun shopping and enjoy your 10% discount!

LoL, Sandra

As the culmination of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Show Friday night in Zurich, Talbot Runhof showed their beautiful S/S 2012 collection.

The Munich-based label was born under Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof. The best way to describe their style is to focus on their attention to craftsmanship and detail and their exquisite couture cuts. A Paris Fashion Week regular and often seen on the red carpets, their billowing gowns and playful creations present a sophisticated, feminine glamour.

Talbot Runhof can be found in the best boutiques all over the world, including leading American department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and at Harrods in the UK.

Johnny Talbot to the left and Adrian Runhof to the right with me.

Before the fashion show, I went backstage to talk to the designer duo. Enjoy!

Adrian,  how does it feel to be here in Switzerland to present your collection?

I love Switzerland, I am often here. Therefore it is so exciting for us to have a show tonight. We have many fans among the Swiss and sell very well in Switzerland.

Please tell me something about your inspiration for the S/S 2012 collection that we are going to see tonight!

Christian Lacroix has designed the costumes for the Munich Opera recently. This has inspired us, not the costumes themselves, but the early stage of Lacroix. When we got started in the Nineties, Lacroix played such a major part in our fashion history. Later, he lost it, his creations became overloaded. His golden age was marked by his ability to mix and match patterns and fabrics, as well as his amazing colour combinations. And this has inspired us!

Do you have any Swiss woman that you would like to dress?

Actually yes and we dress her tonight: Sarina Arnold. She will open the show and will present the final look, too.

Sarina Arnold opened the show in a bright floral dress

What are your future plans?

(Both smiling.) Who knows? We have created for the first time bags and shoes and will take it from there.

The shoes are amazing!

Below you can see my favourite looks from the show. I took some details shots of the fabrics and details backstage for you to see the wonderful craftsmanship. Have fun!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

The new SI Style is available now for my Swiss based readers featuring my fourth fashion column. The global wedding fever inspired me to tell you all about my very own big day that took place in Marbella, Spain. I am actually celebrating my 10th wedding anniversary this summer.

Here is a photo that I couldn’t show in the magazine. My bridal gown was made in the couture atelier of Christian Lacroix in Paris. Everything that was lace like the train, the veil and the long sleeves could be removed for the evening.

I was so scared to loose my dress that I even bought a flight ticket for it. The name it was issued to was Mr Kontrabass and it was sitting next to me in the plane. Isn’t that hilarious?

One of the cutest gift was a special edition of Marie Claire magazine dedicated to me by my colleagues (I was a fashion editor for German Marie Claire at that time) that you can see at the end of this post.

LoL, Sandra

Ladurée is worldwide known for their double-decker macaroons which come in various flavours and seasonal specials. Founded in Paris by Louis-Ernest Ladurée, in 1862, the famous luxury pastries shop and café is always worth a visit. Today, the brand can be found all over the world and has even opened its doors in Zurich last winter.

Even if you are not into caloric treats, you should pay the shop a visit. The interior itself is overly stunning and inspiring, definitely nothing for minimalists.
Remember my friend, I wrote about, that built her dream closet in the famous Ladurée green.

The Ladurée universe includes much more than sweets. They sell the most beautiful gifts you can imagine from scented candles to shower gel, from ruffled printed umbrellas to tea degustation sets. All gorgeously wrapped and packed in their signature boxes in pastel colours.

Many designers got together with the famous French patisserie for the best fashion/food collaborations ever. Names like Christian Lacroix, Christian Louboutin, Marni, which are making our hearts go all aflutter with their designs, have created adorable macarons gift sets.
In the end of October, John Galliano will be decorating his special edition for Ladurée: The rose-ginger macaroons.

While the sweets inside may not last long, the fashionable packaging will be worth keeping it forever.

LoL, Sandra

Recently the couture bottle design has become a huge craze. Companies team up with famous designers to get new “clothes” for their drinks.

After some really amazing collaborations with some of the biggest names in fashion, like Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Paul Smith, Evian has chosen Issey Miyake this year to create a stylish cover. Clean, contemporary and colourful is the new design that will be available in gourmet stores.

Perrier is spicing up his bubbles with the help of burlesque star Dita van Teese who will be their new cover girl this year. Before that they worked with Custo Barcelona, Agnès B. and Paul & Joe to create some very desirable cans and bottles.

Finally San Pellegrino decided to be part of the hype and has chosen Missoni to cover their famous bottle label with the Italian fashion house’s zig zag pattern for their 111th anniversary. Thirty million units are being produced and will be sold in the best restaurants worldwide. In Zurich, they are everywhere.

Diet Coke has been increasing its connections with the world of fashion since quite a while. So no wonder that a long list of famous designers already have got a chance to embellish the beloved soft drink. Karl Lagerfeld has even changed the shape of the bottle this spring.

For all champagne loving fashionistas, Piper-Heidsieck has got some amazing pieces, from the corset bottle designed by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1999 to Christian Louboutin’s Le Rituel Box with a red soled shoe flute and Viktor & Rolf’s limited edition Rose Sauvage set with an upside down bottle.

Dolce & Gabbana’s first experiment in the wines and spirits sector is the Martini Gold Limited Edition. The exclusive mix: bergamot from Calabria, lemons from Sicily as well as oranges, Spanish saffron, myrrh from Ethiopia, ginger from India, and cubebe pepper from Indonesia was developed by the design duo themselves.

A good investment was definitely one of the 2000 individually numbered whiskey bottles that featured Alexander McQueen’s signature Union Jack colours. The late designer had teamed up with Chivas Regal to create that special piece in 2008.

As to me, all those bottles are really striking and sophisticated object d’arts and a show stopping addition to any dinner party.

Cheers!

LoL, Sandra