While we are getting our wardrobe ready for the upcoming winter, designers are already showing their S/S 2013 collections. Here is a summary of the most important collections and trends seen at New York Fashion Week. Stay tuned as a detailed report from London, Milan and Paris will follow soon.
In New York, stripes were having a moment this S/S 2013 season. From Marc Jacobs, to Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors, the American majors are getting in line to consider a fashionable life behind bars. Floral patterns and digital prints stay for the next summer, the best ones were seen at Altuzarra and Thakoon. Layering is all about getting this slouchy chic style. My favourite: Prabal Gurung. A must for summer is a pair of strappy, knee-high summer boots, such as spotted at Proenza Schouler.
Enjoy my little runway reviews!
LoL, Sandra
Joseph Altuzarra came up with a clever way to transform a jacket into a more airy piece by using vents for your arms like a cape, so that the jacket stays in place on your shoulders, even so it comes with sleeves. “It’s how editors wear their coats,” he said of the genesis of the idea to the US Vogue. The draped dresses, the interesting prints and the knee-high Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra sandals make it my favourite NYFW runway collection.
I love this Oscar de la Renta collection. Punk hair, combined with a ’50s silhouette and pop colors. So much fun and sophistication!
After four years in business, Victoria Beckham‘s designs have evolved. The iconic sheath dresses have got company, separates and suits are now part of her collection as well.
Stylists, editors and bloggers have been buzzing about Rodarte continuously. The eccentric designs of the Mulleavy sisters are truly outstanding. For the next season, the précis described Kate’s and Laura’s inspiration as “medieval and fantasy role-playing games”. Please reserve one of those fashionable armors for me!
Alexander Wang‘s runway show for S/S 2013 was ultra-strong with cut-out dresses and footwear to die for. The audience was kindly asked to remain from flash photography which was wishful thinking because when the lights were dimmed down to reveal white looks glowing in an ecclectic shade of yellow, people took their cameras to share this magic moment.
Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez have a young and visionary approach to fashion. This season, they have experimented with leather and print. Very interesting, you have to study the outfit to see all the innovative details.
Viva Espagña! For Ralph Lauren, the next season is all about Matador suits, serapes, ruffles and fringes. Especially, his gowns will be loved by celebrities all around the globe. Olé, fashionistas!
Very preppy, lots of stripes and the four basic colours, this was Michael Kors‘ recipe for his S/S 2013 collection. A subtle ’60s vibe and clean tailoring finished the sophisticated looks. Not new, but very wearable and very American.
Another true prep is, of course, Tommy Hilfiger, who celebrated stripes with a collegiate beat in the all-American shades of red, blue and white. A must for those who are spending their summers in the Hamptons.
The bold spirit that Marc Jacobs had been pushing for fall, has transformed into a more calm and artistic vibe. Lots of black and white stripes and wearable cuts, a wind of change is blowing at the American designer, at least for this season.
Thakoon Panichgul has been inspired obviously by an architectural Japanese feeling. Beautiful blooming floral designs and bird prints dominated this feminine collection. So pretty!
This season, Prabal Gurung channeled Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor. Layering was a key element, such as dresses worn over pants. The Kapoor inspiration was also evident in the extraordinary prints and delicate sheer fabrics.
It was Sophia Kokosalaki‘s last collection for Diesel Black Gold, and probably her best. I truly like this 90’s aesthetic, cool, contemporary with an interesting twist. Her successor, Andreas Melbostad, the former Phi designer, is now in charge to bring the label to the next level.
David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, the designer duo behind Rag & Bone, showed their refreshing collection at New York’s dramatical and beautiful old US Post Office building, a gorgeous backdrop. The inspiration: A desert traveler.
Reed Krakoff is the new king of intellectual minimalism with a very sexy twist. Strong and sportif, he used a colour palette of nudes, browns and blacks. Those see-through deconstructed dresses will be seen on many editors, for sure.
Edun, the beloved fashion label, run by Irish rocker Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, is based on the commitment to encourage trade in Africa. For S/S 2013 the collection is about the contrasting worlds of the Edun girl – intimate and extroverted, utilitarian and outerworldly.
Personally speaking, the most stunning evening and bridal wear for S/S 2013 is designed by Marchesa‘s Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig. Last week, they announced that they had designed Blake Lively’s wedding gown and her bridesmaids’ dresses. For summer, they take their fans on a stunning journey through India by way of maharani’s wardrobe with the bridal motif certainly at the forefront.
Zac Posen focused on gowns and a ’40s silhouette. The biggest surprise happened on the runway, supermodels Naomi Campbell, Angela Lindvall and Karolina Kurkova walked in his show.
Photos: Sian Oflaherty, © Sandra Bauknecht
