Trend Alert: Fair Isle Sweaters

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It is the season now to wrap up warm and thanks to many designers we can do this in style. Fair isle sweaters, that used to be the dreaded gifts given by all unknowing grandmas, will be welcomed this Christmas with open arms.

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Thanks first and foremost to D&G Dolce & Gabbana, where the traditional patterns had a major fashion moment on the F/W 2010 runway, the cozy knits are no longer just a ski chalet staple.

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If you still think that it is a fashion faux pas to wear reindeer or snowflakes emblazoned jumpers, you are completely mistaken, it is almost a sacrilege not to do so. This season, they are officially fashionable. Mountain chic is coming to town.

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Fair isle knit gets its name from a tiny island north of Scotland where the technique to arrange multiple colours in a pattern was first developed.

The secret to a stylish combination is to toughen up the sweet-as-shortbread sweater for example with a goregeous pair of leather hot pants.

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Please enjoy this large variety I put together for you to update your winter wardrobe… in case that you have not already hidden some in your closet. Available at NET-À-PORTER.

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I cannot wait to head down the fashion slopes of St. Moritz (may they be of ice or concrete) in my cozy pieces from D&G Dolce & Gabbana. I loved their collection for F/W 2010 so much. Finally a trend that really works in the cold weather! And aren’t those boots just to die for?!
For the store locator, please click here. Good news is that you might be lucky to get a gorgeous piece on sale.

To the Alpine glamour!

LoL, Sandra

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Balmain at Up to 80% Off at the Outnet

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Have you ever dreamt of owning a luxurious piece from Balmain? Now you might have a chance without your budget going overboard. Today you can shop Balmain at up to 80% off at the outnet.com. Get your hands on a divine military must-have or a sharp LBD. I love my Balmain jackets and wear them a lot (see below).
Happy shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Balmain on Sale

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Wish Upon a Star

The new cruise 2011 pieces are arriving in stores and some work perfectly for the winter season. Wish upon a star with Christopher Kane’s galactic space print.
The combination with leather is utterly unique and turns on immediately your star factor.
I wore the dress last night with a cropped jacket by Alexander Wang and a fur vest by Miu Miu. Add some overknee boots for total evening cool and finish off your look with some killer jewelry.

To your inner evening star!

LoL, Sandra

Gucci Resort 2011

Gucci Kids Party

Last weekend on November 20th, which is Universal Children’s Day, Gucci launched their first kids collection for S/S 2011 with worldwide children’s parties at six of the most important flagship stores in Milan, London, NYC, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Tokyo.

At the Gucci store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, Jennifer Lopez made a great entrance in two different Gucci outfits, a strapless dress from Resort 2011 and an outstanding black combination from S/S 2011. She looked beautiful with radiant skin, false lashes and shiny hair complementing the amazing outfits.

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The American actress and singer and her two-year-old twins, Max and Emme, star in a special ad campaign for Gucci Kids that was shot in Malibu by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
Gucci donated $1 million to UNICEF and $50.000 to Jennifer’s charity, the Maribel Foundation, which focuses on medical care for women and children worldwide.

The fashionable trio looks so adorable on the beach. Jennifer wears pieces from the absolutely gorgeous Resort 2011 collection. The theme of Frida Giannini’s cruise creations is “stylish travel“. Working with a neutral palette of khaki, rust, and army green, the designer also included elements of the equestrian world. This collection is super-wearable with a bit of military and a lot of urban cool. The safari looks present the sexy attitude and glamour Gucci is known for.

Gucci resort 2011

It is not surprisingly that I couldn’t resist. One of my favourite pieces is the military green silk jumpsuit. I rolled up the legs and teamed with some vintage Gucci sandals and a vintage Ralph Lauren belt. The  long 70s inspired earrings are from Chanel Cruise 2011.

Gucci Cruise 2011-OverallThe Greatest Over All


Moreover, I truly adore the brand’s iconic saddle-printed silks in dégradé, a dip-dyed hem. The printed silk-crepe mini skirt (see below) had to be mine. I already wore it with a greige sweater by Stella McCartney, a patchwork Chanel bag and my beloved suede overknees by Gucci, all from F/W 2010. This is a great way of working your new cruise pieces into your winter wardrobe.

The Gucci resort 2011 collection is available now at Gucci stores or at www.net-à-porter.com.

LoL, Sandra

Gucci Must-Have PrintSandra


Happy Birthday, Sandra’s Closet!

Sandra's Closet

Today Sandra’s Closet celebrates its 1st birthday! For me an exciting year has passed filled with many adventures and fashionable stories. I met interesting people and got such wonderful feedback! I would love to take the chance to thank you for all your support and fidelity. Without you, my dear subsribers and readers in over 140 countries worldwide, the success would not have been possible.

Hermès Birkin BagWalking down memory lane, have a look at my first post about the Hermès Birkin bag one year ago. Over 300 articles have followed and many more are to come…

LoL, Sandra

Dress Art

Olaf Breuning 1

In the end of October, designers and artists teamed up for installations at MOMA PS1 (not meaning Proenza Schoulers’s It-bag). The MOMA PS1, one of the oldest and largest non-profit contemporary art institutions in the US, devotes its energy and resources to displaying the most experimental art in the world. MOVE! was a two-day event merging the worlds of fashion and art.
Those famous collaborations included among others Kalup Linzy and Diane von Furstenberg; Rob Pruitt and Marc Jacobs; Brody Condon and the Rodarte sisters; Dan Colen and Proenza Schouler; David Blaine and Adam Kimmel; Jonah Bokaer and Narciso Rodriguez and last but not least Olaf Breuning and Cynthia Rowley.

The dream team came up with one of the most popular projects. They dressed volunteers in denim garments to be used as canvas. The model took her place in a makeshift wodden container and Breuning doused her with bright splashes of paint upon her head. The photos that were made subsequently became then a part of the exhibition.

If you are interested to buy one or more of the 100 one-of-a-kind dress arts, please click here.

DressArt

American fashion designer Cynthia Rowley is an admirer of contemporary art and an avid art collector. So it is no wonder that she teamed up with Swiss born wunderkind Olaf Breuning, one of the most singular multi-talented artists of today. His works include paintings, video-art, sculpture and photography. Previously, he had already collaborated with other fashion houses like Bernhard Wilhelm or Pleasure Principle.

Colour Splah Breuning


Andrea and Gigi Kracht framing Olaf Breuning

Andrea and Gigi Kracht framing Olaf Breuning

Last weekend, Olaf Breuning, who is currently living in New York, came to Zurich for his solo-exhibition, on display in the beautiful garden of the Baur au Lac and implemented by the wife of the sixth-generation hotel owner, Gigi Kracht, in collaboration with Galerie Nicola von Senger.



Olaf Breuning with me

Olaf Breuning with me



Gigi has been spot-on from the first moment she started Art in the Park by successfully shifting the hotel’s grounds into an art gallery and bringing lots of famous artists to the Swiss city. Her passion has paid off.
At the vernissage one week ago, four of Breuning’s specially for Art in the Park VI crafted sculptures were sold already.

I truly recommend a visit to the Baur au Lac. The exhibition will be open until the first week of February 2011. For those of you who cannot make it, please enjoy the photos.

LoL, Sandra



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My Interview with Alexander Wang

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26-year-old Alexander Wang has been conquering the high fashion world since his first eponymous collection in 2007. Born and raised in San Francisco, the wunderkind moved to New York City at the age of 18 to try his hand at designing clothes. He attended Parsons School of Design for two years and interned with Mark Jacobs.

WangFactorWang has become well-known for his M.O.D.,modeloffdutylook. He says: „Anyone can get all dressed up and glamourous, but it is how people dress in their off days, that is the most intriguing.“
With a growing fan crowd embracing his modern approach to dressing, he has taken the industry by storm.

The bag collection was launched in 2008, followed by the diffusion line T by Alexander Wang and shoes in 2009. Wang has created already many signature It-pieces like the cat’s eye sunglasses spotted first on Lady Gaga or the bottom-studded Rocco bag, Mary–Kate Olsen was frequently seen.


He is the recipient of the VOGUE/CFDA Fashion Fund in 2009 as the Swarovski Womenswear Designer of the Year, celebrated again in 2010 with another Swarovski Designer of the Year Award (this time in the Accessory category). 
Last year he won the Swiss Textiles Award. As a culmination of this year’s gala, the king of sexed-up streetwear cool showed his surprising S/S 2011 collection, seen before on the New York runway.
The colour range went from all-white to ivory, mint, curry and terracotta. Deconstructed looks, coverall straps, stiff canvas covered with paint spots and industrial materials like Tyvek played an important role. Rose gold stripes reminding of duct tape and white paint in the models’ hair finally evoke the theme of carpenters.

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I was very lucky to meet Alex in person and do an interview with him. Enjoy his answers and the photos of his S/S 2011 show in Zurich!
Photos: Image Gate © 2010 Getty Images

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You are back in Switzerland again. How do you like it here?

Unfortunately, I haven’t been out that much. Hopefully I will see more. I was pretty busy. This time, I am enjoying it not to be under the pressure to compete.

You received a lot of top honours, among them last year’s Swiss Textiles Award. Those prizes are accompanied by a generous financial support. Did that help you building up your company and gaining even more popularity?

The monetary component is always an advantage but I wouldn’t say it is a priority. I think just the recognition of being in a different market than where we are based, having that awareness and exposure was definitely something that we experienced over the last year. Especially the opportunity and the ressources to work with the Swiss Textiles Foundation gave us the possibility of developing new fabrications for our S/S 2011 collection, that are much more special and expensive. That was definitely the part that I thought was the top advantage of winning the award.

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You launched the your first collection in 2007.  Despite the financial worldwide crisis, you were on the rise during those for many people very tough last two years.
After your Wall Street inspired Fall runway, you are trying something new again, something unexpected was seen on the summer catwalk. After the deconstructed bankers there are now deconstructed carpenters…. What is your message?

I want to show the world that they don’t have me all figured out yet. For me, the most important thing is having a very strong point of view that you can evolve.
Every designer has their own method of doing things. This is my way of communicating to my customer and to the industry of what I have to say.

This season, we didn’t show any black on the runway. It wasn’t something that felt too urban. It wasn’t about doing something downtown or New York. I wanted to create something that felt very optimistic, very uplifting and pure, so with print and colour. That was the outcome of my vision.

You are opening your first store in the old Yohji space on Grand street in New York. Will we see more of your own stores in the future? What does your first store mean to you?

Hopefully, there will be more to follow but nothing is planned so far. I really wanted to take the time and do something right that I feel very strong about. A lot of people rush into things very quickly. I can’t say that. We obviously had a lot of growth in the last couple of years but sometimes you really have to take a moment to think what you are doing, to consider the next steps and where you want to expand.
For us, the store has always been the best possibility to really showcase the full brand and its entirety, where you can really control the image. We are opening it in New York next year. It is an intense process and I want to make sure that each and every detail is done correctly to my standards of perfection.

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You already did a collaboration with Gap. Can you imagine to do something similiar with H&M, too?

We have done a couple of collaborations in the past. I kind of promised myself to be somehow over collaborations in that sort of sense.
Any collaboration that I will be doing in the future moving forward will have to speak to the brand on a completely different level. It has to be organic. The period of doing high-low collaborations feels over for me, to what it represents to our company. I think anything that we do now has to be something that feels fresh and looks modern.
If we were to do another collaboration, it would have to be definitely different and not with a high street brand.

Let’s take all that a little further. If another long-established fashion house asked you to become their new creative director and you could dream of one, which one would it be?

I don’t know if I could answer that question right now. The opportunity has definitely been there before but I feel that my focus should be on growing my own brand and company. Building something solid is my top priority at the moment.

Wangsters, Wang-ettes, fashion editors come up with all sorts of names for your fan crowd. How does it feel to be the leader of a cult?

I find it very flattering of course that people really dedicate themselves to what we are creating.

I do what I love and I am very thankful for having an audience that really appreciates my work. That is why I am a designer. I create clothes for people that want to wear, buy and live in them.
It is not for my own selfish indulgence, to do something just purely creative. It is about the combination of creativity and yet being commercially buyable, that goes to the stores and makes people desire it.

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You are very good friends with Erin Wasson? Would you call her your muse? Who is inspiring you?

Erin is a friend of mine, for sure, but I rarely use the term of muse. I think it is outdated and old-fashioned.
I am inspired by people who work for me that are my family and friends, that I interact with, that I constantly have a communication with.

You went to Parsons for a four-year programme and dropped out after two years to focus on your first collection that was mainly about knitwear and sold to over 200 stores. That is absolutely amazing. Did you have any connections? How did you do that?

(Laughs) There has been the myths that my family owns production facilities. Probably because we are Chinese, people make that association. Other rumors said that we made a big investment. This is all not true.

The brand started off very small with only six styles. It was just that people really responded to the authenticity, to the genuine feeling. When you have someone who really believes in doing something and would do anything to make it happen. Luckily, I had a very big support in terms of a family and I don’t mean just financial.
The people around me encouraged me to keep going. My mum who let me leave school and friends who encouraged me to do what I believed in and not listening so much to what the stores were telling me to do, what the showroom wanted me to do. Saying so what, that is my customer, this is the one I want to design for, that is the one, I want to sell to and this how I want to approach it! And I just stuck with it.

Can describe the Wang factor, the Wang DNA in three words?

I wouldn’t limit it to three words. There is definitely a sense of ease. At the end of the day, it is fashion, it is fun. People need to enjoy it. At a certain point when it is so strict, so controlled, pretentious, I don’t fun with it anymore. And that is not what our brand is about it. It is about individuality, ease and a sense of humour. I always look at it light-heartedly.

I love dressing men and women of all different ages and sizes. I don’t want to dictate how to wear my clothes. I get motivated by how people bring their own approach to my designs.

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What do you think of all those fashion blogs? Are they the future?

This is part of a generation discovering a new method of communicating. It is definitely about being more acknowlegdeable of what is around me, my surrounding and how to communicate. It changed the way that fashion functions. I feel very priviledged to be part of this advanced generation.

And I feel very priviledged to have met you. Thanks, Alex, for this lovely interview!


Alexander Wang with me

Alexander Wang with me

It was truly a pleasure to talk to Alexander Wang. He is a very charismatic, energetic person with a very strong vison and full of enthusiasm. On one hand, he seems like the young boy he still is, a little hyper and kind of innocent, on the other side, he is an already experienced business man who goes his own way. This is a very interesting combination and probably his key to success.

LoL, Sandra

Swiss Textiles Award 2010

Last night, the 11th Swiss Textiles Award was presented on the occasion of the first Fashion Days Zurich. The highly acclaimed fashion prize is worth € 100.000.- and talented designers like Jason Wu, Duro Olowu, Adam Kimmel, Juun.J, Damir Doma and Mary Katrantzou were fighting for it.
But there can be only one winner! And this year, it went to the only woman in the competition.
I was very happy to meet all of them and talk about their visions and designs.

Mary Kantratzou with me

Mary Kantratzou with me

The winner Greek-born and London-based Mary Katrantzou was my guess and also my favourite. So I was very happy for her to receive the trophy.

 

The 27-year-old is a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London.

 

She belongs to a new generation of designers, using digital prints to create extraordinary trompe d’oeil effects. To me, she is creating unique pieces that the fashion world has not seen before, a true innovation! This is her fourth collection. The first was about perfume bottles, the second about artisanal blown glass, the third was inspired by jewels and this time it is all about rooms. Her stunning S/S 2011 interior-inspired collection was already the talk of London Fashion Week

 

Mary, congratulations, you have absolutely deserved to win. How do you feel at the moment?

Ecstatic! I couldn’t believe it and cried backstage so I think that says it all.

What does the trophy mean to you?

The financial support is amazing at a stage when the business is growing and it’s so important to have that support. I can invest in my company now on a multilevel, taking it to a newer and international level and award the people who have believed in me. It’s a very prestigious prize, it’s a benchmark and a great honour. You just feel you have been acknowledged.

Does your Greek origin influence your designs?

Probably in the concept of the female figure, meaning to design very closely to the body.
Moreover, it is very difficult and time-consuming to place the prints correctly on the clothes in order to flatter the feminine silhouette.

Do you think that your designs are wearable?

Absolutely! I mean the commercial aspect is important, too. I want women to wear my designs instead of hanging them in a museum. You should feel comfortable.
I like to make objects wearable and desirable. It is just my signature look, I don’t want women to feel objectified.

Any hints concerning your next collection for F/W 2011?

It’s a progression of this one, it’s not as thematic and it’s slightly darker. The thing is with my collections,  if I say too much then it will give it away. Like with this collection if I had said ‘rooms’, I would have revealed too much.

How do you like Zurich?

It is my first time and I haven’t been able to properly enjoy it as I was so busy with this show. But yesterday we were very hungry and went to the lake where all these old buildings are located. It was really nice and I love Zurich.

What will you do next?

Going home to my boyfriend and I think drinks will be on the list. (Giggles.)

Where are you going to put your trophy?

Top front in my new studio that we are right in the middle of moving in.

That Mary had to beat off stiff competition from fellow designers can you see below.

Jason Wu with me

Jason Wu with me

Jason Wu was born in Taipeh and moved when he was a child to Vancouver. He studied to be a sculptor and went to Parsons School of Design. His first collection was launched in 2006.

 

His career kicked off when Michelle Obama supported the young talent by wearing a custom-designed one-shoulder, floor-length white chiffon gown, at the ball on the night of President Barack Obama’s inauguration. Later, she appeared on the cover of the US-Vogue once again in a Wu design, a magenta silk dress.

 

 

 

Today, Wu works in New York. His eye for details and colours is his strong point.
For S/S 2011 he cut out small petals and created beautiful embellishments.

Jason was very sweet and revealed some interesting facts:

My mum always supported me. She bought me a sewing machine at the age of 10 and paid a fashion student to teach me.
My beloved symbol, the owl, was inspired by my last name Wu because if you say it many times in a row, it sounds like it.

 

Duro Olowu with me

Duro Olowu with me

Born in Lagos and based in London, Duro Olowu went on a quite different career path.  He studied law in England, worked as a lawyer in Nigeria before switching to his first love, fashion. Drawing on the inspirations he found by the unexpected mix of fabrics, textures and draping techniques of the clothing worn by the women of his native land.

 

He launched his own label in London in October, 2004 which became an instant hit with his use of luxurious fabrics and ecclectic, clashing prints.
Last year, he opened his own boutique in London.

Michelle Obama has supported Duro’s carrer as well, as she has been seen many times in his vibrant styles.

 

For his S/S 2011 collection, Duro flipped easily back and forth between retro silhouettes and modern bright pop-like references, incorporationg the saturated colours of tribes in Papua New Guinea and the ever present influence of his Nigerian and Jamaican heritage.

I spoke briefly to him and was overwhelmed by his charming positive attitude. His aura reflects the joie de vivre that shows in his collections.

Being proud of his roots, he is a leading example of how you can life your dream and that everything is possible.

Damir with me

Damir Doma with me

Damir Doma is a modern nomade. His collections are inspired by his own way of living.

 

He was born in Croatia and grew up in the southern part of Germany. Same like me, he studied fashion design at ESMOD (L’ Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode) in Munich and Berlin. He graduated in 2004 with magna cum laude for the best collection and worked after that in Antwerp for Raf Simons whom he sees as one of the most inspiring designers.

In 2006 he started his label with menswear, followed this year by his first collection for women. He is widely considered the most improtant German fashion designer of his generation.

 

Damir explained:

I don’t like the body to adapt to the clothes, it should be vice-versa. I love soft materials and flowing volume. I grew up in my mother’s atelier and was playing with fabric starting in my early childhood. That might be the reason why fabrics play such an important role for me.

 

Adam Kimmel with me

Adam Kimmel with me

Adam Kimmel stands for the American way of life, uniting the worker and the artist. As he states himself; it’s all about giving the industrial style profile by infusing relaxed elegance.

 

He studied architecture, completed then later an apprenticeship with an Italian samples manufacturer before launching his debut label in 2002.

The New Yorker designer received standing ovations for the presentation of his S/S 2011 collection last night. The usually more quiet Swiss audience cheered from the first moment when the sounds of Snoop Dogg echoed in the hall.

The Snoop looky-likeys paraded down the aisle in a perfect mixture of hip-hop style elements produced in the finest Italian cashmere. I am sure Snoop would love it.

 

Later at the after party at Moods, Adam told me more:

I saw the Wall Street Journal including something about Snoop Dogg and got immediately inspired to create this collection.

As we could not bring the models to Switzerland, we did a fun street casting in Zurich before to find the best bad boys.

 

The final show last night was the one of last year’s Swiss Textiles Award 2009 winner Alexander Wang.
Stay tuned as I did a fantastic detailed interview with him which will soon be published here.

LoL, Sandra

The Camel Coat

Camel Coat

As you already know if there is one piece fashion is gushing over this F/W 2010, it is the camel coat. Being a true classic and always in style, this season seems to be the perfect time to get one. Many designers showed their own unique take on it. Whether it is made from genuine camel hair or not, it is an investment always worth it.

In case you have not decided yet, please find above a summary of the best pieces in stores at the moment. There is something for every taste and budget.

Camel Coat Me

I decided to go for the long caramel camel-wool wrap coat by Chloé. It is a very versatile piece. Cinched at the waist with the skinny tan belt or thrown over loose, the overall impact is pure sophistication.

I love to wear it tone on tone with my chunky wool cardigan dress by Stella McCartney and my suede Gucci overknee boots for an instant sensual upgrade. The Céline box bag adds the perfect minimalistic chic.

Max Mara Camel Coat

The probably most authentic choice is the iconic and much-copied Max Mara cashmere blend overcoat that launched in 1981. It has been the company’s bestseller since nearly thirty years. What the trench is to Burberry, the classic camel coat is to Max Mara, specifically the model with the so-called style number “101801”.

Therefore, it is no wonder that the Italian brand has recently used the wool and cashmere icon to launch its e-commerce business. The double-breasted outerwear piece has an 42 inch length and kimono sleeves that can be rolled up. Its proportions make it an ideal fit for all women. It can be personalized with a special lining and a name or monogram on the inside label.
Available for purchase exclusively at maxmara.com.

LoL, Sandra

My Interview with Nicholas Kirkwood

SJPYesterday, Zurich’s best shoe shop Lovers Lane hosted a trunk show to present the gorgeous creations of Nicholas Kirkwood. The British designer is the biggest name in shoes today, known for his craftsmanship and innovative designs, that are instantly recognisable. He also has a lot of celeb fans, among them Sarah Jessica Parker who wore his extravagant designs all the way through the Sex and the City 2 promotions.
The famed footman came extra to the Swiss city for the event last night and I was very lucky to do an extensive interview with him before he left for New York for a meeting with Anna Wintour this morning.

 

Nicholas Kirkwood with me

Nicholas Kirkwood with me

You were born in Germany. Do you speak any German?

No, I was just born there because my Dad was living in Münster at that time.

Being here in Zurich today to present your amazing creations, do you have a vision of the typical Swiss woman?

I came to Switzerland quite a lot when I was younger for my ski holidays. We were always staying at the same hotel that was run by lady who was very firm, and very strict, you could never do something wrong.  When we were running around, she would say no-no.

So tonight I am looking forward to meeting another type of Swiss ladies and see how my customers here look like.

Which woman do you have in mind when creating your shoes in general?

One season is more feminine, the other more angular. It is quite open. Therefore I like to do events like tonight. Seeing the shops I sell to and  meeting the women’s wishes. Every market is different. You have to start somewhere.

You logded with the late Isabella Blow?  Has her eccentric style influenced your work?

She was very encouraging. Any new idea, any of her thoughts would make a good idea. And of course, knowing her was amazing, her inspiration and unique character.

Is there a celeb woman that you would love to dress in your shoes that does not wear them yet?

A very interesting question. Let me think. If I was walking in the streets and my cell phone would be ringing and somebody would be asking me for shoes, who would shock me the most? Mmh, Madonna, no… Now I know. Imelda Marcos! I just want her to have my shoes even if she probably can’t wear them anymore.

Lovers Lane sells other brands as well. Which one do you like the best?

I love very much what Charlotte Olympia does. A wonderful girl, very beautiful. I think we sometimes have the same customer, it is a very close but friendly competition.

I know that you are not a big fan of kitten heels. So how did you like this season’s shoe trend? Will we see one day a Kirkwood kitten heel?

I kind of did a kitten heel, but it was very strange looking. There is more a hype, than a reality to it. A lot of people want it to be a trend, are pushing it to be a trend.
The shoes might be not as high as they were in the last few seasons and I might be completely wrong but I just do not see this happen.

You have a signature look that is instantly recognisable . I truly admire that, especially with all the different collaborations you do, like for example Rodarte, Erdem, Peter Pilotto. Now, you are the new creative director for Pollini. You seem to be an unlikely fit for the traditional house. Do you have a carte blanche? How much freedom do you get in creating for other designers?

Pollini is a big challenge and I like it. I have a lot of work and I do not sleep much.

The best collaborations come out of working together. I’d hate it to be just told „do what you want“. The other party tries to bring the most into it. So the final product is the result of both rather than being too heavily weighted on one side or the other.

How did the pop-up e-commerce shop go? (The runway shoes he created for Peter Pilotto and Erdem were available for just a few days during London Fashion week.)
Would you do it again?

I think we will do it again. It was a great experiment.
In some ways it is the future. Probably sad to say but that is the way things are going to go and we like to keep ahead of the game. Burberry did it with clothes. I might be wrong, but with shoes we were the first.
Fashion is so quick. Something can seem old before it even hits the shops.

Will there be a Nicholas Kirkwood online shop soon? Do you dream of your own stores?

Yes, but we are not there yet.

In 2009, you created jelwery in collaboration with Swarovski? Will we see more Kirkwood in the future? For example handbags, menswear and more?

Men’s shoes, handbags, jewlery and sunglasses, yes! Soon…

Do you like things to be matchy-matchy? Like matching your bag to your shoes?

No, hate it. Similiar colour that is o.k..

Experimenting with heel shapes, negative spaces and shoe shapes might be pretty expensive. Do you have some base models you always start working with?

I try to always do something new. As soon as I have finished the collection, I start over again. I re-start and also keep something. Partly it is mostly somewhere close of what I have just done.  Fashion is too quick to always change.

I read once that you do not like fastenings and excess, do you still agree with that? Has your focus changed or developed during the last years?

No, it is not that I do not like it. There is sometimes a need to have a buckle and sometimes I try to think of other solutions than a buckle. But it is also nice to have those elements in there. When you are at a young stage, you start out on one tune.

Now, I am trying to expand the range, become more obedient to different types of customers, to become more of a shoe brand not just a niche for a small community.
Those details will become part of the collection more and more. There will always be my signature in it, but probably just not so in your face.

Is there a creation that you find horrible today?

Oh yes, especially a shoe that comes out crooked. I normally try to hide and burn it without anybody seeing the disaster.

Did you ever see a woman wearing your shoes and you did not like what you saw?

Sometimes, when I see somebody wearing my shoes completely beaten up. But on the other way, it is a sign that she very much loved them.

I hate it if they are wearing the wrong size and the toes are hanging out.

Have a you ever made a shoe in which it was impossible to stand or walk?

Yes, especially for photo shoots. You could stand in them for 10 seconds and that was it.

The Alice in Wonderland shoes that I made for Printemps in Paris, you could probably not walk in them because of the little hanging porcelaine cups.

Do you have a favourite of your designs?

In some ways I am never satiesfied with anything. Sometimes I am very happy with the way things come out. But once the shoe is made, I am over it. I have seen the process for so long, it gets kind of boring after a while.

It is like recording an album. You are listening to the same thing for such a long time, that by the time it is finished, you can’t stand it.

Your shoes melt contemporary art and fashion? Best example is the upcoming Keith Haring collection. Do you see yourself as an artist?

No, not at all. I am more of a product designer. I studied fine arts at St. Martins. I am a big fan of art. It is a completely other thing. You do not replace it so easily like a piece of fashion. It has more of a longevity to it. There are similiarities to it like the way  people get excited.

I feel a little like the art world looks kind of down on the fashion world, a little bit of a high brow.

Could you imagine to do a collaboration with H&M? Or to create a more budget-friendly second line?

Not yet. I have been approached by similiar kind of things. I always like to promote the quality manufacturing and made in Italy. That is what I sort of believe in. It is different with the ready-to-wear. Regarding footwear, you will really notice a cheap pair of shoes . I don’t want to say that I will never do it. (Laughs…) I will wait until I can make a hell out of money out of it for a one-time-thing. And make a big party after.

I mean, there are a lot of people out there, not everything has to be accessible to everybody.

I don’t say that I will never,  there is just no need at the moment unless I will be forced by a powerful editor who says you have to.

Like the one you are seeing tomorrow (Anna Wintour)?

Laughs again. No, not her.


Lovers LaneI hope that you have liked the interview. I had a blast talking to Nicholas as he is such a sweet guy. The party at Lovers Lane was really great. I took some photos for you to get an impression.

And gentlemen, sometimes it is worth going shoe-shopping with your wifes or girlfriends. There might be a little treat for you, too.

LoL, Sandra

 

Daniela Karagi and Melanie Guenthardt, the two ladies behind Lovers Lane with me

Daniela Karagi and Melanie Guenthardt, the two ladies behind Lovers Lane with me

 

Annina Frey

Annina Frey

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Photos: Sandra Bauknecht

Photos: Sandra Bauknecht