Navyboot’s New Creative Director

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This morning Navyboot held a press conference to announce their new Creative Director: Adrian Josef Margelist. The 34-year-old native Swiss has experienced success in that field. After launching his career at Vivienne Westwood in London where he designed the accessory line, he has worked for well-known houses like Fabric Frontline, Esprit and MCM. During those years, he has gained a lot of know-how in repositioning and relaunching a brand. This is exactly what he is aiming to do for Navyboot. The charismatic designer will be in charge for the new visual concept as well as for the product development. His first collection for F/W 2011 of shoes, bags and accessories (Navyboot`s key items) will hit the stores in barely one year. I am absolutely looking forward to seeing his creations.

Me with the New Creative Director Adrian Josef Margelist. He is wearing the YSL button as „a tribute to the master“. Love that!

Me with the New Creative Director Adrian Josef Margelist. He is wearing the YSL button as „a tribute to the master“. Love that!

He is envisioning a high-end product in the premium price level with its own signature. The handwriting should definitely be international which would help the expansion strategy of the Swiss house. Navyboot has just opened 8 stores in Germany and more are planned in other countries. I like the new course, it is fresh, dynamic and courageous.

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The new S/S 2010 campaign, photographed by famous Michel Comte, is also promising.  With the emphasis on ballet flats, Polina Semionova, prima ballerina at the Berlin State Opera, has been the perfect choice to model the new collection along with Swiss actress Melanie Winiger as another unconventional ambassador.

I like the new wind of change that is blowing at Navyboot. No guts, no glory!

LoL, Sandra

Chanel’s Iconic 2.55 and 5 O`Clogs

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After my last Tuesday post, I have received so many e-mails from you asking me about my XXL Chanel bag that I wore on one of the photos.

XXL2-55The very large version of Chanel`s iconic 2.55 bag was presented last F/W 2009/10 for the first time in black vernis leather and was spotted immediately on stylist Rachel Zoe. For S/S 2010 the oversized model has appeared once more in grey denim but only a very limited number was produced. I am totally in love with this bag. It gives me a this “Alice in Wonderland” feeling being so big compared to my stature.

The story behind the legendary bag that has always been en vogue is magical. The 2.55 takes its name from the month and year when it was launched by Coco Chanel: February 1955. Her idea was to create a shoulder bag to free up her hands. The traditional hand-held bags were simply no longer practical. Therefore her introduction of the chain strap revolutionized fashion of its time.

In 2005, in celebration of the 2.55`s 50th anniversary,  Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel`s designer since 1983) revived the bag exactly as Coco Chanel had made it and launched the Reissue. As a new member of the traditional Chanel 2.55 family, the updated version has got a turn clasp (Chanel term: Mademoiselle Lock) instead of the classic interlocking CC closure introduced in the `80s (Chanel term: Classic Flap) and a chain strap without the interwoven leather accent. Both variations are available each season in many different ways.

2.55 with Classic Flap

2.55 with Classic Flap

 

XXL 2.55 with Mademoiselle Lock

XXL 2.55 with Mademoiselle Lock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CIMG5090Interesting to know is that the bag arrives folded into the stores and can be packed like this for travelling which makes it very convenient (see photo to the left). It is said that Karl Lagerfeld found one of Coco`s previous 2.55 models on a shelf, squeezed together between some books. As the shape of the bag was still in perfect condition, he has adopted that idea for his relaunch.

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In case those bags are appealing to you, go to the nearest Chanel store and have a look. If you are there, please do not miss out this summer`s It- shoes:
Chanel`s “5 O`clogs” (love that name) are the hottest ones of all.

To me, Coco Chanel deserves the Nobel Prize post mortem. We owe her the LBD (Little Black Dress), stretch materials, pants and the chain strap. By banishing the corsets, she has been the pioneer of modern wearable womenswear. Thanks, Coco!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and via missylovely

Emilio Pucci

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Emilio Pucci, the Marchese di Barsento, scion of an old aristocratic Tuscan family, was the godfather of colourful prints and lightweight non-crushable dresses in the fifties and sixties. His designs changed the world of fashion dethroning the dull and heavy fabrics of the previous post-war era.

Today, original Pucci prints from his early creative years are highly collectible items. Especially his “palazzo pyjamas” in wrinkle-free silk jersey captured the psychedelic mood of the 1960s and became the jet-set uniform worn by many celebrities like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.

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It all started on the slopes of St.Moritz in 1948 when the highly gifted skier Pucci was spotted by a Harper`s Bazaar editor in his own designs and was featured later in the fashion magazine. In 1951 he established his own company in his Palazzo Pucci in Florence and remained head designer until his death in 1992. 
Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson were among several designers taking over the brand`s legacy until in 2008 the Norwegian Peter Dundas started to bring the Italian label to new heights.

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Since today, the brand has never been relegated to history and continues to be an integral component of every fashionista`s closet.

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Here are some news for my Swiss based readers: The stylish S/S 2010 collection could have been admired at the trunk show hosted by Ruth Reinger last week at her store Designer am See located in Kilchberg/ Lake Zurich.

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The printed silk dresses are skyrocketing bestsellers. Those outfits are perfect for your summer vacation in the South of France or Sardinia. Dozens of them could be packed in one single bag, they are comfortable and great for partying.

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This multicoloured PVC coated beach bag was the generous give-away at the trunk show. My compliments to Ruth Reinger! It was a great event.
If you are interested, Designer am See carries Pucci exclusively in Zurich, have a look for yourself!

LoL, Sandra

The Perfect Successor

The perfect successor

CIMG4333Last week in St. Moritz, Dianne Brill, whom you have met yesterday, and I went for a coffee to the Palace hotel. My American girlfriend fell immediately in love with my tribute for Alexander McQueen sweater. I had bought the striped piece with the slogan “God save McQueen” almost two years ago. It seems like his decision to kill himself aroused much earlier. Our conversation about the death of this fabulous designer started and we came up with a BRILLiant idea for the perfect successor: Thierry Mugler.

Mugler versus McQueen

It would be kind of ironic. If you start looking closer, you will see that McQueen took a lot of his inspirations from Mugler`s amazing former collections. Thierry was the designer of the Eighties. His style was very much of its time: Extreme proportions like padded and broad shoulders, wasp waists, body-conscious, even fetish exaggerations of the human figures. He used a lot PVC as his favourite material. The insect kingdom was a constant influence along with futuristic and robot themes. Sounds a lot like McQueen and today`s trends, doesn`t it?

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Thierry as Manfred Mugler today

Thierry as Manfred Mugler today

Alexander McQueen is definitely the brainchild of Mugler. So it would be a true irony of fate if Mugler who lives today as Manfred Mugler in Las Vegas after his retreat from the fashion world in 2001 took over. Instead of designing fashion the last years, his body became his design work of art. He transformed himself completely. Nowadays he is still involved in his bestselling perfumes like Angel, Alien and A*Men.


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As I am having quite a big archive, I was lucky to find a catalog from Thierry`s S/S 1995 collection. I scanned the best pictures for you. Have a look and you will see how Mugler and McQueen are somehow soul brothers.

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Recently Mugler served as main costume designer for Beyoncé Knowles latest concert tour. He also contributed to develop the entire show, from lighting to choreography. Several of his famous vintage pieces are seen throughout Knowles` videos.

It seems like he is ready to break fresh ground. Please Thierry come back!

LoL, Sandra

Two living legends: Thierry and Dianne. He called her his muse.

Two living legends: Thierry Mugler and Dianne Brill. He called her his muse.

Label to Watch: Carven

Have a look at the revival of the old French fashion house of Carven. Founded after the Second World War in 1945 by Madame Carven who turned 100 last year and initially launched to cater for petite women like Madame Carven herself, the house is debuting now a new exciting ready-to wear collection designed by former Givenchy designer Guillaume Henry. The looks are great, modern, never pretentious and most amazingly low priced. The cocktail dresses are in the price range of €330 to €450. It is definitely a label to watch in the future. Above you can find my favourite picks all available online.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Carven

Alexander McQueen is Dead

Alexander McQueen dead

What a tragic start to New York  Fashion Week! Today in the morning, Alexander (his first name was actually Lee) McQueen was found dead in his London home at the age of 40.

The outstanding British fashion designer, known for his innovative and creative designs, will be greatly missed by the fashion world. Obviously he was very distressed over his mother`s death last week and might have killed himself. But this is not yet confirmed.

I am shocked and devastated at the tragic loss of such an inspirational, extraordinary talent.

Rest in Peace, McQueen!

LoL, Sandra

New Generation

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Graphic patterns are a big trend for next summer, but the real news is digital manipulated prints.

A genius in creating those swirling effects is the Glaswegian designer Jonathan Saunders who since his graduation in 2002 from London`s Central Saint Martin`s college has been climbing up the ladder of success. Especially his resort 2010 collection (see above) that is available right now has a lot of those notice-me silk screening prints.

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There is a new generation of designers that are using computer-generated patterns to achieve a new kind of futuristic look. Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou are among those rising stars.

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My favourite is Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou. Her surrealistic prints of perfume bottles on dresses (see below) were divine last winter. You should get one on sale at Browns. And like Coco Chanel said: „A woman who doesn`t wear perfume has no future“. I am sure this is nothing Mary has to worry about.

For my Swiss based readers: Trois Pommes will carry her beautiful summer collection.

LoL, Sandra

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Stallion Boots

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As Far Western chic is in the dress codes for next summer, I wanted to show you the most authentic and fashionable addition to your look: the perfect cowboy boots.

Last week I met Pedro Muñoz, owner of Stallion Boots and Leather Goods. A handsome, smart and witty guy in his early fifties, part Native American and grown-up in Mexico, he started to build up a his company in El Paso, Texas in the beginning of the eighties.

Pedro Muñoz with me to his left

Pedro Muñoz with Stallion boots and me

His creations are special! Each pair is the result of many hours of skilled craftsmanship that lead to a perfect and extremely comfortable fit. Approximately 70 are produced per week with top-quality materials like alligator, crocodile, ostrich, lizard, stingray, various snakes, water buffalo  and calf leather. I am totally in love with their amazing patterns and colours.

My favourite ones are the Vintage Butterflies with their beautiful red, green and beige leather inlays, view to the top right below. Those boots definitely celebrate a sexy style that makes girls and boys go wild. At request, Stallion even offers custom designs and fittings.

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In Switzerland, Trudie Götz sells a large variety of models at her Trois Pommes Stores in Zurich, Basel, Gstaad and St.Moritz.

Heigh-ho and away you go!

LoL, Sandra

Meet Lydia Courteille

Lydia Courteille

Yesterday I had the priviledge to meet the Parisian jewelry designer Lydia Courteille.

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An amazing woman with a special aura that designs outstanding jewels. The scale of her creations is absolutely incredible. Mostly big pieces inspired by historical periods show her fantastical imagination. She uses a lot of ancient stones that the passionate antiquarian has collected over the years. A certified gemologist, Lydia Courteille uses her expert knowledge to design jewelry that is vibrant, colourful and unexpected.

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Each collection has its story. There  are “The 9 Planets” : for example the “Cabinet of Curiosities”, “African”, “My Secret Garden”, just to name a few.

She explained to me her love for skulls as a symbol of vanity showing that in the end everybody is equal no matter how rich, beautiful or intelligent the person was. To her it recalls the humility of life. For the rest of her collections, she is pursuing her love of floral or forest landscapes, following her take on gothic elements or using animals like frogs, snakes or elephants for the beauty of their forms. Just looking at her creations you feel her fairytale spirit.

LoL, Sandra

The bracelet is one of a kind made of pink gold, pink sapphires, diamonds and a pink beryl  combined with a beautiful ring in the shape of elephants.

The bracelet is one of a kind made of pink gold, pink sapphires, diamonds and a pink beryl combined with a beautiful ring in the shape of elephants.

One of my favourite collections is „The 13th sign“. Here you see me wearing the Ring of the Aquarius (my sign).

One of my favourite collections is „The 13th sign“. Here you see me wearing the Ring of the Aquarius (my sign).

This beautiful setting holds a pink tourmaline in the center of the flower.

This beautiful setting holds a pink tourmaline in the center of the flower.

This amazing piece of rubies in a black rodium setting belongs to the "To Cassandra" collection.

This amazing piece of rubies in a black rodium setting belongs to the "To Cassandra" collection.

Trudi Götz and Theo Grigoriadis

Trudi Götz and Theo Grigoriadis. The famous Swiss lady with her incredible sense for outstanding designers brought Lydia Courteille`s creations exclusively to Switzerland and sells them in her Trois Pommes Boutiques in Zurich, St. Moritz, Basel and Gstaad.

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Meet Matthew Williamson

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Matthew and me in one of his amazing dresses from his recent winter collection.

The absolute highlight during my stay in London last weekend was my visit to one of my favourite designers: Matthew Williamson.

The 1971 born king of bohemian chic founded his own fashion house in 1997. Since then he is known for his brilliant play on colour and print. I am so in love with his exotic shades, vivacious candy-tinted creations that are mostly embellished with exquisite embroidery and beading. When I think of him, I see vibrant kaleidoscope patterns with an inimitable touch of relaxed sensibility.

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The award-winning English designer also worked for 3 years as Creative Director at Emilio Pucci and had a collaboration last spring with H&M. In 2007 the Design Museum London even held a retrospective exhibition dedicated to his 10th anniversary of being in fashion.

MW3His first flagship store opened the Central Saint Martin`s graduate (one of the best schools for fashion design in the world) 2004 in London at 28 Bruton Street. I took some photos for you to see the mesmerizing display of ionic pieces, the asthetic wallpaper and the little rain forest in the middle. Just to be in the shop is an experience….! If you don`t have time to go to London, have a look at his webshop.

LoL, Sandra

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