Emilio Pucci, the Marchese di Barsento, scion of an old aristocratic Tuscan family, was the godfather of colourful prints and lightweight non-crushable dresses in the fifties and sixties. His designs changed the world of fashion dethroning the dull and heavy fabrics of the previous post-war era.
Today, original Pucci prints from his early creative years are highly collectible items. Especially his “palazzo pyjamas” in wrinkle-free silk jersey captured the psychedelic mood of the 1960s and became the jet-set uniform worn by many celebrities like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.
It all started on the slopes of St.Moritz in 1948 when the highly gifted skier Pucci was spotted by a Harper`s Bazaar editor in his own designs and was featured later in the fashion magazine. In 1951 he established his own company in his Palazzo Pucci in Florence and remained head designer until his death in 1992.
Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson were among several designers taking over the brand`s legacy until in 2008 the Norwegian Peter Dundas started to bring the Italian label to new heights.
Since today, the brand has never been relegated to history and continues to be an integral component of every fashionista`s closet.
Here are some news for my Swiss based readers: The stylish S/S 2010 collection could have been admired at the trunk show hosted by Ruth Reinger last week at her store Designer am See located in Kilchberg/ Lake Zurich.
The printed silk dresses are skyrocketing bestsellers. Those outfits are perfect for your summer vacation in the South of France or Sardinia. Dozens of them could be packed in one single bag, they are comfortable and great for partying.
This multicoloured PVC coated beach bag was the generous give-away at the trunk show. My compliments to Ruth Reinger! It was a great event.
If you are interested, Designer am See carries Pucci exclusively in Zurich, have a look for yourself!
LoL, Sandra
Last week in St. Moritz, Dianne Brill, whom you have met yesterday, and I went for a coffee to the Palace hotel. My American girlfriend fell immediately in love with my tribute for Alexander McQueen sweater. I had bought the striped piece with the slogan “God save McQueen” almost two years ago. It seems like his decision to kill himself aroused much earlier. Our conversation about the death of this fabulous designer started and we came up with a BRILLiant idea for the perfect successor: Thierry Mugler.
It would be kind of ironic. If you start looking closer, you will see that McQueen took a lot of his inspirations from Mugler`s amazing former collections. Thierry was the designer of the Eighties. His style was very much of its time: Extreme proportions like padded and broad shoulders, wasp waists, body-conscious, even fetish exaggerations of the human figures. He used a lot PVC as his favourite material. The insect kingdom was a constant influence along with futuristic and robot themes. Sounds a lot like McQueen and today`s trends, doesn`t it?
Thierry as Manfred Mugler today
Alexander McQueen is definitely the brainchild of Mugler. So it would be a true irony of fate if Mugler who lives today as Manfred Mugler in Las Vegas after his retreat from the fashion world in 2001 took over. Instead of designing fashion the last years, his body became his design work of art. He transformed himself completely. Nowadays he is still involved in his bestselling perfumes like Angel, Alien and A*Men.
As I am having quite a big archive, I was lucky to find a catalog from Thierry`s S/S 1995 collection. I scanned the best pictures for you. Have a look and you will see how Mugler and McQueen are somehow soul brothers.
![Outlook[1]](http://www.sandrascloset.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Outlook1-209x400.jpg "Outlook[1]")
Recently Mugler served as main costume designer for Beyoncé Knowles latest concert tour. He also contributed to develop the entire show, from lighting to choreography. Several of his famous vintage pieces are seen throughout Knowles` videos.
It seems like he is ready to break fresh ground. Please Thierry come back!
LoL, Sandra
Two living legends: Thierry Mugler and Dianne Brill. He called her his muse.
Have a look at the revival of the old French fashion house of Carven. Founded after the Second World War in 1945 by Madame Carven who turned 100 last year and initially launched to cater for petite women like Madame Carven herself, the house is debuting now a new exciting ready-to wear collection designed by former Givenchy designer Guillaume Henry. The looks are great, modern, never pretentious and most amazingly low priced. The cocktail dresses are in the price range of €330 to €450. It is definitely a label to watch in the future. Above you can find my favourite picks all available online.
LoL, Sandra
Photos: Courtesy of Carven
Graphic patterns are a big trend for next summer, but the real news is digital manipulated prints.
A genius in creating those swirling effects is the Glaswegian designer Jonathan Saunders who since his graduation in 2002 from London`s Central Saint Martin`s college has been climbing up the ladder of success. Especially his resort 2010 collection (see above) that is available right now has a lot of those notice-me silk screening prints.
There is a new generation of designers that are using computer-generated patterns to achieve a new kind of futuristic look. Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou are among those rising stars.
My favourite is Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou. Her surrealistic prints of perfume bottles on dresses (see below) were divine last winter. You should get one on sale at Browns. And like Coco Chanel said: „A woman who doesn`t wear perfume has no future“. I am sure this is nothing Mary has to worry about.
For my Swiss based readers: Trois Pommes will carry her beautiful summer collection.
LoL, Sandra
Matthew and me in one of his amazing dresses from his recent winter collection.
The absolute highlight during my stay in London last weekend was my visit to one of my favourite designers: Matthew Williamson.
The 1971 born king of bohemian chic founded his own fashion house in 1997. Since then he is known for his brilliant play on colour and print. I am so in love with his exotic shades, vivacious candy-tinted creations that are mostly embellished with exquisite embroidery and beading. When I think of him, I see vibrant kaleidoscope patterns with an inimitable touch of relaxed sensibility.
The award-winning English designer also worked for 3 years as Creative Director at Emilio Pucci and had a collaboration last spring with H&M. In 2007 the Design Museum London even held a retrospective exhibition dedicated to his 10th anniversary of being in fashion.
His first flagship store opened the Central Saint Martin`s graduate (one of the best schools for fashion design in the world) 2004 in London at 28 Bruton Street. I took some photos for you to see the mesmerizing display of ionic pieces, the asthetic wallpaper and the little rain forest in the middle. Just to be in the shop is an experience….! If you don`t have time to go to London, have a look at his webshop.
LoL, Sandra
Next season you should invest in something that is very à la mode but will always be in style: exotic leather! Snakeskin was seen everywhere on the runways and there are especially many beautiful bags to dream of. You could think about a classic piece like the python model by Devi Kroell, or get one of those amazing big clutches by Nancy Gonzalez. These will accent your outfit perfectly and will be a companion for many years. My favourite one is this incredible Alexander McQueen clutch. I love the shape, the colours, the design…. it is just perfect!
If you want to take it a step further, go crocodile! The price might be breathtaking but envision it as the foundation of your outfit. Sometimes it is better to prioritize and invest in one timeless piece to make you feel instantly fabulous.
Kristin Davis was spotted at the set of the new Sex and the City movie carrying this stunning croc tote by Nancy Gonzalez (who is by the way one of the most celebrated handbag designers in the world and a great address to get high-quality precious skin models). The bag – that also comes in black – can accessorize every outfit perfectly. I would opt for a bold colour as this will enlighten everyday basics immediately and will make you look so stylish! Always keep in mind the only limit is your creativity!
LoL, Sandra
Do you still need a Christmas present? I got an idea for you that is fun, cute, sexy and absolutely hilarious! Have a look at www.lochers.com. Being a Swiss Girl in Paris, Nicole Locher, opened her design atelier in 2005. She is creating that shock of contrast that I so much adore as she combines the beautiful artwork of vintage inspired embroidery with the playful modern attraction of a dirty saying. I think those tees and jewelry pieces will save you some words….
This combination below would be my way of combining a tee and necklace by Locher`s. From the outside very preppy with that little feather headband but look at those heels and especially at the garter belt. Who is going to be …… in the head now?
LoL, Sandra
![Outlook[1]](http://www.sandrascloset.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Outlook1.jpg "Outlook[1]")
Lydia Courteille with me
