Sandra‘s Closet

Jean Paul Gaultier’s «Cyber Dots» motif first appeared in his F/W 1995 collection, drawing inspiration from the Op Art movement, particularly the works of Victor Vasarely. The design featured polka-dot patterns on form-fitting garments, creating optical illusions that accentuated the body’s contours. This collection was emblematic of Gaultier’s innovative approach, blending art and fashion to challenge conventional aesthetics.

I wore this dotted jumpsuit from Jean Paul Gaultier during a live performance in 1995 and needless to say I kept it until today.

 27 years in between my cyber dots jumpsuits.

In November 2022, the house revisited this iconic motif with the «Cyber» collection. This ready-to-wear line reimagined the original designs, introducing vibrant neon colors and contemporary silhouettes while maintaining the signature dot patterns. The collection encompassed a range of pieces, from catsuits to micro bikinis, reflecting a fusion of ’90s nostalgia and modern fashion sensibilities.

The enduring appeal of the «Cyber Dots» design lies in its timeless ability to merge art with fashion, continually resonating with new generations and solidifying its status as a hallmark of Jean Paul Gaultier’s visionary legacy.

The reason why I am showing you this is to emphasize that it is really good to keep special pieces. They will always their time again. I wore this outfit on a recent episode of MY STYLE ROCKS. Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier
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Fashion weeks have come to an end, and the news keep coming in. Yesterday, Demna was announced as the New Creative Director at Gucci and there is more to know.

FREDERIC ARNAULT NAMED CEO OF LORO PIANA IN LVMH RESHUFFLE

The Italian brand’s current chief Damien Bertrand will become deputy CEO at Louis Vuitton. Meanwhile, Fendi’s CEO Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou will move to Dior.

The move sees Frédéric, one of five children of chairman Bernard Arnault, taking on his first role in the group’s crucial fashion and leather goods division. Arnault, a graduate of France’s École Polytechnique, previously spent 6 years at TAG Heuer before being named CEO of the group’s watch division in 2024.

OTB TAPS SIMONE BELLOTTI AS JIL SANDER’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Industry interest in Bellotti surged following a series of stand-out shows for Bally. The designer is replacing Lucie and Luke Meier, who parted ways with Jil Sander in February.

DARIO VITALE TO SUCCEED DONATELLA VERSACE AS CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER OF VERSACE

Vitale, who left his post at Prada-owned Miu Miu in January, will step into his new position at the beginning of April. Donatella Versace will become chief brand ambassador after nearly three decades at the creative helm of the label founded by her late brother Gianni.

The change comes as Miu Miu-owner Prada Group is reportedly inching closer to buying Versace from Capri Holdings in a $1.5 billion deal, which could see Vitale returning to the Prada fold.

With all these changes, I truly wish for fashion to focus on its magic again as personally speaking numbers will also come back then.

LoL, Sandra

Photo Credit: Courtesy of the Brands
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Georgian designer Demna is leaving Balenciaga after a decade to become Gucci’s new Artistic Director, starting early July 2025.

During a surprise press conference at the Parisian headquarters of parent company Kering, the newly instated Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino said: «I have always admired Demna’s creative approach, that is both unique and powerful. His ability to honor the iconic legacy of a brand while embracing a modern sensibility is extraordinary. With Gucci’s strengthened foundations as a springboard, Demna will lead the House towards renewed fashion authority and enduring cultural relevance.»

At the Balenciaga F/W 24 show in Paris wearing Demna’s designs head to toe.

Both Gucci and Balenciaga, where Demna has been creative director for nearly 10 years, are owned by Kering. At Balenciaga, Demna has redefined modern luxury, earning global recognition and cementing his authority on the industry.

Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci is renowned for eclectic and contemporary creations that represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and are unsurpassed in quality, attention to detail and imaginative design.

Demna said: «I am truly excited to join the Gucci family. It is an honor to contribute to a House that I deeply respect and have long admired. I look forward to writing together with Stefano and the whole team a new chapter of Gucci’s amazing story.»

Gucci hasn’t set a date for Demna’s debut show, but it isn’t expected to come before September. That means Gucci’s next big moment on the fashion calendar — a May 15th cruise show in Florence, the brand’s birthplace — will be another studio-designed affair.

LoL, Sandra

Photo Credit: © Demna, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Gucci today announces the end of its collaboration with Creative Director Sabato De Sarno after only two years. The F/W 2025 fashion show in Milan on February 25 will be presented by the Gucci design office. The new Artistic Direction will be announced in due time.

Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, said: «I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honored Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.»

Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, declared: «I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals. Stefano and the new Artistic Direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.»

Gucci Ancora Campaign by David Sims S/S 2024

Personally speaking, De Sarno have been praised for his collections which I have never understood. I found his collections for Gucci so boring and felt I had everything already in my closet from previous years from designers who were at the reigns before him. The sizing was also absolutely bad.

Gucci gave no hint of who might replace De Sarno but there’s no shortage of big names available, or potentially available, with plenty of speculation about star creatives soon to move on from their existing labels. For now though, we’ll just have to wait and see.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Gucci
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Rosita Missoni, co-founder of the renowned Italian fashion house Missoni, passed away peacefully on January 1, 2025, at her home in Sumirago, Italy, at the age of 93. 

Born Rosita Jelmini on November 20, 1931, in Golasecca, Italy, she hailed from a family with a rich textile heritage. Rosita studied modern languages. On a trip to London in 1948 to improve her English, she met Ottavio, who was competing with the Italian 400 metres hurdles team at the Olympics in the city. In 1953, she married her fellow textile enthusiast Ottavio «Tai» Missoni. Together, they established Missoni, transforming it into a symbol of Italian luxury fashion celebrated for its vibrant knitwear, distinctive zigzag patterns and avant-garde use of textiles, an approach to fashion often compared to modern art.

Missoni models in 1966, Photo: Courtesy of Missoni

Under Rosita’s creative direction, Missoni gained international acclaim for its innovative designs and contributions to ready-to-wear fashion. It was also helped by what was dubbed the ‘battle of the bras‘ in 1967. Missoni had been invited to show at the Pitti Palace in Florence but before the models went out on the runways Rosita noticed that their bras were visible through their tops, ruining the intended colour and pattern effect. She told the models to remove their bras but, under the runway lighting, their outfits became totally transparent and the incident caused a sensation.

Angela Missoni at the Missoni show during Milan Fashion Week S/S 2018, Photo: Courtesy of Net-à-Porter

Rosita remained actively involved in the company until 1997, when she transitioned leadership to her children, notably her daughter Angela, who assumed the role of creative director. Rosita then focused on expanding the Missoni Home collection, infusing the brand’s signature aesthetic into home furnishings. 

The Missoni family faced significant tragedies in 2013, with the loss of their eldest son, Vittorio, in a plane crash, followed by Ottavio’s passing later that year. Despite these challenges, Rosita’s unwavering dedication ensured the brand’s continued prominence in the fashion industry. 

Rosita Missoni’s legacy endures through her pioneering spirit, innovative designs, and the vibrant patterns that have become synonymous with the Missoni brand. Her contributions have left an indelible mark on the fashion world, inspiring generations of designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

The brand expanded into home collections and hotels. In 2018 Italian investment fund FSI invested 70 million euros in the company in exchange for a 41% stake. Missoni picked Rothschild in 2023 as financial adviser to explore a potential sale of the company. As of October 2024, Alberto Caliri serves as the creative director of Missoni. A veteran of the company since 1998, Caliri previously led Missoni’s home and sport categories. He initially assumed the creative director role on an interim basis after Angela Missoni’s departure in 2021 and was officially appointed following Filippo Grazioli’s tenure from 2022 to 2024. 

Missoni S/S 2025

Under Caliri’s leadership, Missoni continues to innovate while staying true to its distinctive aesthetic, as evidenced in recent collections. 

Rest in Peace, Rosita, and thank you for these amazing patterns and fantastic knitwear!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Missoni, Missoni Archives, Grazia, Sandra Bauknecht
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What a whirlwind of events! While filming in Istanbul with little time to spare, the fashion world delivered a major surprise: John Galliano announced his departure from Maison Margiela after a decade at the helm of the OTB-owned brand.

John Galliano

In a heartfelt Instagram post, Galliano shared the news, writing, «Today is the day I say goodbye to Maison Margiela… I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity.» He extended his thanks to his atelier team and Renzo Rosso, OTB’s chairman.

The move marks the end of an era for the house, originally established by the famously reclusive Martin Margiela. The brand gave Galliano the opportunity to rebuild his career and reputation following his controversial exit from Dior in 2011. Over the years, Galliano transformed Margiela with his signature theatricality, camp-infused creations, and innovative, deconstructed designs. He also championed gender-fluid fashion and elevated the brand’s «Artisanal» line to unprecedented levels of craftsmanship.

Me in the Maison Margiela Haute Couture studio after the amazing show in the beginning of the year, which is just next to Galliano’s office.

Under his leadership, Margiela saw significant commercial success, with a 22% rise in sales in 2023, even as the broader luxury market faced challenges. His legacy was solidified with a sensational January 2024 show in Paris, where historical couture-inspired characters roamed a haunting, mist-filled space under a bridge, complete with striking, mask-like makeup by Pat McGrath. Galliano leaves behind a storied chapter in Margiela’s history.

Galliano did not elaborate on his future plans, instead saying that «when the time is right, all will be revealed.»

Matthieu Blazy for CHANEL

I was hoping that he would be appointed at CHANEL but today the French Maison announced Matthieu Blazy as its new creative director, succeeding Virginie Viard, who departed in June. Blazy, formerly the creative head at Bottega Veneta, is recognized for his craftsmanship and innovative designs. His appointment is anticipated to infuse fresh energy into the French Maison’s iconic aesthetic. Blazy is expected to present his inaugural collection for CHANEL during Paris Fashion Week in October 2025. 

Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta

Meanwhile in the past hours, Louise Trotter has been announced as the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, taking over from Matthieu Blazy. Known for her transformative work at brands like Lacoste and Carven, Trotter brings a refined design aesthetic and a strong sense of cultural awareness to the role. She is set to start at the luxury house in January 2025, making her the only woman currently leading a brand under Kering’s ownership. This appointment highlights her unique vision and the potential for a fresh chapter at Bottega Veneta.

One of the conglomerate’s biggest fashion brands, Fendi, has yet to name a new womenswear designer after Kim Jones stepped down from the role in October. I guess that Galliano will head up there. These significant shifts reflect the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, with Galliano, Blazy and Trotter poised to shape new creative directions in their respective roles.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands / © Sandra Bauknecht
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Dries Van Noten announces a company insider, Julian Klausner, as the new creative director of his eponymous label, marking a significant transition after Van Noten’s 38-year career. Klausner, who has been with the brand since 2018 and served as the head of womenswear, will oversee its creative direction moving forward. Known for his deep understanding of the brand’s DNA, Klausner aims to honor its legacy while introducing fresh ideas to keep the label evolving.

Leaving behind a three-decade legacy of design that is celebrated worldwide, Van Noten announced he would be stepping back from his namesake label in March 2024. The Belgian-born designer, known for his innovative eye, revealed his decision in a letter, explaining that the decision has been on his mind for a while. Always bringing together an eclectic mix of textures, prints, and silhouettes, the creative director has consistently pushed the boundaries of conventional style, earning him a special place on the Paris Fashion Week schedule.

Dries Van Noten expressed confidence in Klausner’s vision, describing him as a natural choice to continue the brand’s innovative and artful approach. The 33-year-old Belgian designer will present his first women’s collection on 5 March in Paris.

TO SHOP DRIES VAN NOTEN, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

In Dries Van Noten this year in Boston, for the full outfit post click here please.

Photos: Courtesy of Dries Van Noten / Sarah Piantadosi, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Another designer to make a career move…, Fendi artistic director Kim Jones is leaving the Italian fashion house but will stay on at Dior Homme, LVMH said in a statement, the latest in a series of designer shuffles at big name labels as the industry adjusts to a downturn.

A new creative organisation for the label will be announced «in due time,» the company said. One of the industry’s highest profile designers, Jones succeeded Karl Lagerfeld at the label in 2020, designing ready-to-wear and couture collections.

Demi Moore walking the Fendi Couture runway in January 2021.

Described as «the hardest working in man in fashion» by ELLE UK’s editor-in-chief Kenya Hunt for a December 2023 profile, Jones has previously held the top job at Louis Vuitton (Men’s) having risen up the ranks of the industry by way of non-profit incubator Fashion East.

Last week, LVMH named Michel Rider to succeed Hedi Slimane at Celine, and in September named Sarah Burton to take over creative direction at Givenchy.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Fendi
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I am in Istanbul at the moment filming a new TV show about fashion for German and Swiss TV, but I don’t want you to miss out on the big news. It’s official: Hedi Slimane is exiting Celine after seven years, owner LVMH confirmed in a statement. The star designer is departing the Parisian fashion house after months of thorny contract negotiations according to BoF. During his tenure, Slimane more than doubled Celine’s annual sales to €2.5 billion.

One thing is for sure Hedi, who is known for his trademark skinny silhouette has transformed Celine. He added menswear for the first time in the brand’s 79-year history to the portfolio, as well as expanding into high perfume and beauty. In womenswear, Slimane reconnected Celine to its historic identity as a purveyor of leather goods that incarnate Parisian bourgeois style and took the accent aigu of the e, which means it is Celine and not Céline anymore.

«Celine has experienced exceptional growth and established itself as an iconic French couture house,» LVMH said in a statement. «The holistic vision of Hedi Slimane, his exigence and rigour have made it possible to redefine the codes of Celine whilst reaffirming its feminine and Parisian roots.»

Mere hours after the official exit of Hedi Slimane, Michael Rider has been named artistic director of Celine. Rider was a top design deputy during Phoebe Philo’s tenure at Celine and left his role at Ralph Lauren earlier this year. Before that Rider worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga.He will oversee all collections at the LVMH-owned house from early 2025.

CHANEL has not named its new designer yet. I guess that Hedi is heading there … what is your take on it?

LoL, Sandra

PHOTOS: Courtesy of Celine
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Italian designer Alberta Ferretti announced that she is stepping down as creative director of the eponymous brand she founded more than 40 years ago. The S/S 2025 collection that the brand presented last week during the Milan fashion week was the last one carrying her signature.

«On Sept. 17th, you attended my last fashion show,» Ferretti wrote in a letter sent out by email. «I believe that at this point of my career it is a right and conscious choice to pave the way for a new creative chapter for the brand I founded and which will continue to bear my name.»

The new creative director for the Alberta Ferretti brand will be announced in the next few months, the group said, adding that Ferretti will retain her role as vice president of Aeffe, which also owns brands Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Moschino and Pollini.

Together with her brother Massimo, Alberta Ferretti co-founded Aeffe S.p.A.

Ferretti, who grew up in her family’s dressmaking shop before opening her own boutique as a teenager, has remained true to her signature gentle feminine silhouettes since the launch of the brand in 1981.

«The Alberta of that day is in many ways still the Alberta of today, even if in the meantime a small family business has become a company with 1500 employees,» she wrote further.

Beautifully said. Thank you, Alberta, for the magic of all those years.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti
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