Sandra‘s Closet

To celebrate the 100th year of the N°5 perfume’s fame, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, has imagined the «Collection N°5», the first High Jewelry collection ever to be dedicated to a perfume.

A first in the history of High Jewelry, this collection showcases all the facets of a perfume, interpreting the eternal mystery of the N°5 perfume with virtuosity. From the bottle to the sillage, one hundred and twenty-three extraordinary pieces express the different facets of the perfume. With its hundred years of fame, only a perfume as mysterious and iconic as the N°5 perfume could inspire such a majestic High Jewelry collection.

In 1921, the first «perfume for women with the scent of a woman» composed by Ernest Beaux and Gabrielle Chanel made a commotion. With the absolute modernity of the fragrance, the purity of the bottle and the mystery of the name, the N°5 perfume was nothing short of a revolution. In 1932, Mademoiselle shattered the codes of French High Jewelry with her one and only collection in platinum and diamonds. These «Bijoux de Diamants» introduced new ways of wearing and took jewelry into another realm… that of allure. In 2021, Patrice Leguéreau decided to bring these two domains together with the «Collection N°5».

«Gabrielle Chanel approached these two universes with the same visionary values, focusing on audacity and the quest for excellence. I wanted to rediscover that creative gesture with this collection, which has been conceived like a journey through the meanderings of the N°5 perfume’s soul, from the architecture of the bottle to the olfactive explosion of the fragrance.»

The zenith of this precious collection is the extraordinary 55.55 necklace that expresses all the codes of the fragrance which radiate through an exceptional gemstone crafted in its honour, a 55.55-carat custom-cut diamond.

«This is an unprecedented approach» observes Patrice Leguéreau. «We started with a rough diamond that we had cut, not to make the biggest stone possible, but to obtain a perfect octagonal diamond weighing 55.55 carats.»

The harmonious shape, in an emerald cut, the symbolic weight of 55.55 carats, the D Flawless quality of this stone and the 18-carat white gold bezel set with 104 round diamonds and 42 baguette diamonds testify to CHANEL’s perfectionism and exceptional levels of creation and technical mastery. The profile of the stopper, the silhouette of the bottle, the fastener shaped like the lucky number, and the cascading of pear-shaped diamonds in different sizes, cut one by one, mould this piece into an ultimate tribute to the perfume.

Figurative as much as it is abstract, the 55.55 necklace goes further than an exercise in style. It symbolizes the embrace between the spirit of the N°5 perfume and the most exceptional jewelry making. With an incomparable suppleness, this fascinating and eternal item of jewelry adds its own stone to the story of CHANEL’s first perfume, which has become a myth.

But the tale does not stop here because CHANEL has chosen to keep the necklace 55.55 in its Patrimoine. Thus, this extraordinary piece will forever be a part of the history of CHANEL’s High Jewelry and the symbol of the unbreakable ties that unite place Vendôme with the N°5 perfume.

Stunning, beautiful – an iconic piece that has already made history.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © CHANEL

Yesterday, Elsa Peretti’s family office in Zurich announced that the jewelry designer, who was famous for her creations for the US jeweler Tiffany & Co., died Thursday at the age of 80 in a village near Barcelona, ​​Spain peacefully in her sleep.

Just last October, Tiffany & Co. had tapped Peretti to design nine one-of-a-kind pieces, based on archival designs from her personal library, in celebration of 50 years since the introduction of her widely recognized bone-cuff bracelet – and 45 years since she began designing for the company.

Tiffany’s Instagram post.

A pioneering designer

Elsa Peretti was born in Florence and trained in Switzerland and Rome, where she later returned to for a degree in interior design. In the late ’60s, she had established herself as a model in New York City and Barcelona, and she also began to design her own jewelry. A small silver bottle worn as a necklace became her first successful creation. She found the inspiration for this design in Portofino, where women used to wear fragile gardenia flowers as a fashion accessory: the small silver vase necklace made the flowers last longer. Throughout her career, she would always try to combine beauty with practicability.

Elsa Peretti’s bottle pendants for Tiffany & Co.

The American fashion designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo used some of her pieces in a fashion show, where they immediately became a huge success. The very next day she was a star in New York. During this time she met the legendary US fashion designer and seventies icon Halston, with whom she had a lifelong friendship and with whom she worked frequently. The US jeweler Tiffany & Co. became aware of the young designer and in 1974, she started an exclusive collaboration that would last through her entire career.

Elsa Peretti with Halston in 1977

She often seeked inspiration from everyday objects – a bean, a bone or an apple could be turned into cufflinks, bracelets, vases or lighters, scorpions and snakes were turned into attractive necklaces and rings, often in silver as one of their preferred materials. She herself said: «There is no new design, because good lines and shapes are timeless» and in fact her pieces are as modern and wearable today as ever.

Elsa Peretti’s famous bone cuffs.

Elsa Peretti’s designs are in the permanent collections of the British Museum in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Massachusetts, and the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston, Texas. In recognition of her remarkable work, Tiffany established the Elsa Peretti Professorship in Jewelry Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the first endowed professorship in the history of FIT. In addition to other honors, the designer was awarded an honorary doctorate from the FIT in 2001. She also received the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Jewelry in 1971 and the Rhode Island School of Design President’s Fellow Award in 1981. In 1996, she was named Accessory Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Elsa Peretti photographed by Duane Michals, Vogue, December 1974

Philanthropic work

Elsa Peretti was also known for her charm, and friendliness towards others. She had a profoundly humanitarian vocation, supporting cultural, scientific and educational initiatives and advocating the defense of human rights. In 2000, she founded a charity in honor of her father, which was renamed the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation in 2015, that focuses on the protection of the environment and wildlife. Furthermore, it also aims to fight poverty. Over time, the foundation’s work has expanded to support a wide range of projects promoting human and civil rights, with a particular focus on the right to education, the rights of children, and the rights and dignity of women.

Sant Martí Vell, her Catalan hideaway

The Italian designer had been living a reclusive life in the tiny village of Sant Martí Vell in Catalonia, Spain, where she has lived permanently since the ’80s in a mustard-yellow home she purchased in 1968. She had restored it over years and the little village became her preferred place of residence. As a result, she restored entire sections of the village, acquired and preserved other buildings, including the church, and supported the excavation of Roman ruins and the archiving of the history of the village. She also founded a winery that has been selling exclusive wines under the Eccocivi label since 2008.

She promoted the visual arts and worked to consolidate, protect and disseminate the historical, artistic, cultural, architectural and craft heritage of Catalonia. In 2013 Elsa Peretti became the first non-Catalan person to be awarded the National Culture Prize of the National Council for Culture and the Arts (CoNCA).

Rest in Peace, Elsa!

A truly creative mind and great should has left this planet. Thank you, Elsa, for leaving us such a lovely legacy. You will never be forgotten. Fortunately, also much photographic evidence remains of her, such as Helmut Newton’s 1975 shot of her leaning languidly on a terrace in Halston’s take on a Playboy Bunny costume. «Helmut and I were having an affair. He was a Scorpio. There is something between Scorpio and Taurus,» she said in an interview with Vanity Fair, taking on a suggestive tone. «One morning, he said, ‘I want to do a picture of you.’ I didn’t know what to wear. I went to my closet and came out wearing this costume I’d worn to a party with Halston. Helmut was flabbergasted. He took me on the terrace and took the photo. It was 11 A.M.»… what a beautiful life!

LoL, Sandra

Matthias Schneider, Studio Director and Head of Design at REPOSSI, paid homage to Elsa Peretti on Instagram.

Photos: Courtesy of Tiffany & Co. / Elsa Peretti

GEM DIOR, Victoire de Castellane‘s new collection, celebrates her love of stones by presenting pieces with singular and surprising shapes. This amazingly beautiful line of abstract, 1970s-flavored watches and jewelry features patches of various gemstones — marking the first time the Dior designer has created a watches and jewelry collection together.

Each creation, inspired by couture and Mr. Dior’s colorful fabric samples, is made up of asymmetrical and angular sections set side by side like mineral strata. This collection celebrates natural and authentic beauty through unique, strong pieces.

The new Gem Dior line includes seven watch models with irregular, octagonal faces and clasp-less bracelets, as well as 11 pieces of jewelry — rings, bracelets and earrings, that draw inspiration from the geometry of stones. Additional interchangeable alligator bracelets come for the watches.

I am loving it.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dior

Breaking news for all gem lovers. Tiffany & Co. acquires an exceptional 80-carat diamond to reimagine its historic 1939 World’s Fair Necklace. Expected to be its most expensive piece ever, Tiffany will unveil the diamond necklace in 2022 when the doors of its transformed Fifth Avenue flagship store reopen, making history once again, just as the original necklace did nearly a century ago when it debuted at the World’s Fair in Queens, New York.

In August 2020, OMA unveiled images of the newly transformed Tiffany Fifth Avenue Flagship Store to open in 2022.

The original aquamarine design has been modernized with an extraordinary oval diamond of over 80 carats, the largest diamond ever offered by Tiffany and eclipsed only by the Tiffany Diamond, which famously is not for sale.

«What better way to mark the opening of our transformed Tiffany flagship store in 2022 than to reimagine this incredible necklace from the 1939 World’s Fair, one of our most celebrated pieces when we opened our doors on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue for the first time,» said Victoria Reynolds, Tiffany & Co. Chief Gemologist. «The new necklace perfectly reflects our brand heritage as a New York luxury jeweler, whose founder was known as the ‘King of Diamonds‘.»

Tiffany & Co. 80-carat, D color, internally flawless diamond inspired by necklace from the 1939 World’s Fair.

The breathtaking center stone – an over-80-carat, D color, internally flawless oval diamond – is not only very rare, it is a symbol of Tiffany’s industry-first approach to diamond traceability. Responsibly sourced in Botswana, Africa, the diamond will be set by Tiffany artisans in NYC.

Photograph of the aquamarine and diamond necklace from the 1939 World’s Fair_Tiffany & Co. Archives.

The original necklace’s sizable aquamarine and exceptional diamond forms entranced the millions who came to admire the international spectacle. With its forward-looking theme, «Dawn of a New Day,» the 1939 World’s Fair promised a glimpse into «the World of Tomorrow.» The fair’s intention was to inspire, in its over 44 million visitors, the dream of a better and more effervescent tomorrow. Tiffany’s masterpiece did just that – setting the stage for the opening of its iconic flagship store on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue the following year, in 1940 – foreshadowing what will be a similarly historic moment for the brand in 2022.

In 1878, the company purchased the famous Tiffany Diamond, an immense canary yellow stone from the new South African deposits. Once cut, the diamond weighed 128.54 carats.

Tiffany has acquired many rare and remarkable gemstones for its jewelry designs in its 183-year history, including the legendary Tiffany Diamond, one of the world’s largest and finest fancy yellow diamonds, as well as the Hooker Emerald, now exhibited at the Smithsonian and the Mazarin Diamonds, purchased by Tiffany at the auction of the French Crown Jewels.

LoL, Sandra

The massive 75.47-carat Hooker Emerald had been auctioned to Tiffany & Co, which initially set it in a tiara. Despite its beauty, the tiara remained unsold for decades. In 1950, the emerald was re-set into a brooch that included matching earrings. Five years later, the brooch was purchased by Janet Annenberg Hooker. In 1977, she donated it to the Smithsonian.

Photos: © Tiffany & Co. and © OMA

This year has taught us to keep it super simple. My dear Carolina Bucci has taken this message further and created K.I.S.S., a collection inspired by a fascination with the inner workings of a watch. In 2016, she launched with Audemars Piguet the famous Royal Oak Frosted Gold. Its shimmering sparkle reminiscent of diamond dust, that I love so much, comes from a surface treatment process rooted in an ancient gold hammering technique, also called the Florentine technique, which is an iconic style element used by Carolina Bucci for her eponymous jewelry line.

In 2018, when she was working with the master watchmakers at Audemars Piguet to finalize the designs for her limited edition Royal Oak, she began to ask herself a hypothetical question: What would these craftsmen and craftswomen create if they were let loose in the world of fine jewelry?

There is a word often used in high-end watchmaking to describe the technical aspects and achievements of the craft: complication. Whereas the word carries a negative meaning in most other areas of life, for the watchmaker, it is something to be pursued and acclaimed. This inspired the K.I.S.S. collection, specifically the balance spring, which is also called the heart of the watch. At Carolina Bucci, gold does things it shouldn’t do. So in this case, gold is elastic. Each bracelet and necklace is at its simplest, one single coil of 18k gold, just like a spring. Its minimalism means you can stack it with a timepiece or other jewelry.

Much as one tells the time on one’s watch, without thinking too much about it, these pieces are designed to be the opposite of complicated… to keep it super simple.

TO SHOP THE CAROLINA BUCCI K.I.S.S. COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Carolina Bucci
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The most direct way to connect with the season’s toughest look? A heavyweight curb-link necklace. Being very reminiscent of the 80’s, it uplifts every look to new heights. Shop the most beautiful ones available in different price ranges by clicking on the highlighted product description.

LoL, Sandra

JW-charm gold-plated choker by JW Anderson
The one I am wearing in the photo above.

Trudie chain necklace by Chloé

Binari chunky chain choker by Rosantica

Crystal-embellished chain necklace by Marni

Rose gold-plated sterling-silver chain necklace by Bottega Veneta

Diamond & 18kt rose-gold curb-chain choker by Shay

Stills: Courtesy of the Brands, Photo: David Biedert Photography
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

She has surfed the waves, flown in a Monogram hot-air balloon and been transformed into a soft, cuddly toy. Now, Vivienne, the iconic Louis Vuitton mascot, makes her entry into the world of jewellery. Vivienne is unlike anyone else. Having blissfully become part of the Louis Vuitton family, this charming character, originally conceived as a decorative object, adapts to any situation and every whim. Risen to the ranks of an emblematic mascot, she exudes fun and vivacity through all the crafts of the House, while keeping her unique zest for life, cheekiness and offbeat personality.

Launched in 2019: Maison Vivienne, the cutest and most stylish doll house ever

For the first time, her adventures take her into the marvellous world of jewellery. Just as amusing and uninhibited as ever, her preciousness is elevated with every new pendant.
Through high artisanal craftmanship, new objects of desire are born by combining coloured jewels with a variety of precious materials. Drawing inspiration from the two Monogram flowers – respectively round and pointed –, Vivienne stands upright on her legs with her diamond eyes wide open, while her Louis Vuitton-engraved arms remain movable, free to nonchalantly swing from side to side.

Available in two sizes and in different styles, Vivienne adds a significant chapter to her story – her family has grown. Small pendants come in a choice of the three golds, or in a gold and diamond variation with red or black lacquer. While a bigger, medium version – available in the three golds or half-paved – can also be used as a brooch.

• Pendant Vivienne, small, yellow, pink and white gold, diamonds
• Pendant Vivienne, small, yellow, pink and white gold, black lacquer and diamonds
• Pendant Vivienne, small, yellow, pink and white gold, red lacquer and diamonds
• Pendant Vivienne, medium, yellow, pink and white gold, diamonds
• Pendant Vivienne, medium, yellow, pink and white gold, and diamond paved

I love those pendants, totally on my wish list!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton

Last Thursday, I had an interesting zoom event with BoF Professional LIVE about unpacking the LVMH-Tiffany saga. The largest acquisition in the history of the luxury goods sector had collapsed, setting up what could be the industry’s biggest M&A battle of all time. Experts to laid out what could happen next and they were pretty right. Robert Williams, Europe Correspondent BoF; Brian Quinn, Law Department Professor, Boston College; Oliver Chen, Managing Director & Senior Equity Research Analyst, Cowen and Company; and Lauren Sherman discussed all possibilities. Interesting to know is that LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in BoF. However, all investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing complete editorial independence.

Such an interesting talk last week at BoF

Coming back to the luxury deal of the century. Jewelry is still a fruitful space to look for. It makes sense that LVMH wants to expand in this sector. Tiffany, that has no family shareholders, which is another advantage, is strong in the bridal sector and in China, watches are about 3%. There a lot of strategic synergies between the companies. It was unlikely that LVMH wanted to go to court where you have to be very transparent about your business. It was more likely a strategic move to get a good price, something Bernard Arnault, who built his fortune on acquiring companies, appreciates. It was the first time he wanted to get out of a deal, which could have hurt his reputation as a savvy buyer.

Today, both parties announced that they have concluded an agreement modifying certain terms of their initial agreement (the «Merger Agreement») to reflect a purchase price of $131.50 in cash and to reduce closing conditionality. Other key terms of the Merger Agreement remain unchanged. Tiffany and LVMH have also agreed to settle their pending litigation in the Delaware Chancery Court. This ends weeks of corporate fighting and saves the French luxury conglomerate over $400 million on the original price of $16.2 billion agreed before the worldwide pandemic hit. The deal is now set to close early next year, pending shareholder and regulatory approvals.

Roger N. Farah, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Tiffany, commented. «We are very pleased to have reached an agreement with LVMH at an attractive price and to now be able to proceed with the merger. The Board concluded it was in the best interests of all of our stakeholders to achieve certainty of closing.»

Bernard Arnault, President and CEO of LVMH, commented: «This balanced agreement with Tiffany’s Board allows LVMH to work on the Tiffany acquisition with confidence and resume discussions with Tiffany’s management on the integration details. We are as convinced as ever of the formidable potential of the Tiffany brand and believe that LVMH is the right home for Tiffany and its employees during this exciting next chapter.»

Congrats to the newly weds!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of LVMH / Tiffany

In November 2019, luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE confirmed that it has reached a $16.2 billion deal to buy American jeweller Tiffany & Co. For the previous post, click here please.

Yesterday, after months of speculation, LVMH has called off its planned mega-merger with the American jeweler. The result? Tiffany sinks 11% and is now suing the French luxury conglomerate to keep the acquisition on track. The jewelry giant alleged LVMH sought to leverage US social justice protests and the coronavirus pandemic to «avoid paying the agreed price for Tiffany shares.»

LVMH explained that the deal’s contract set a November 24 deadline, and that requests from Tiffany and the French government to delay the deal led to its pulling out. In return, Tiffany accused LVMH of not doing its part to win approval of the deal from antitrust authorities.

Tiffany’s famous 5th Avenue store in New York City

More details can be found in LVMH’s press release from yesterday: «After a succession of events which undermine the acquisition of Tiffany & Co, the Board of LVMH met to review the situation relating to the contemplated investment in light of these recent developments.

The Board learned of a letter from the French European and Foreign Affairs Minister which, in reaction to the threat of taxes on French products by the US, directed the Group to defer the acquisition of Tiffany until after January 6th, 2021. Furthermore, the Board noted Tiffany & Co.’s requested to extend the «Outside Date» in the Merger Agreement from November 24th to December 31st, 2020.

As a results of these elements, and knowledge of the first legal analysis led by the advisors and the LVMH teams, the Board decided to comply with the Merger Agreement signed in November 2019 which provides, in any event for a closing deadline no later than November 24th, 2020 and officially records that, as it stands, the Group LVMH will therefore not be able to complete the acquisition of Tiffany & Co.»

Key figure: Roger N. Farah, Chairman of the Board Tiffany & Co.

In course of Tiffany & Co.’s lawsuit in the Court of Chancery of the State of Delaware against LVMH Moët Hennessy-Louis Vuitton SE and related entities («LVMH»), Roger N. Farah, Chairman of the Board, said, «We regret having to take this action but LVMH has left us no choice but to commence litigation to protect our company and our shareholders. Tiffany is confident it has complied with all of its obligations under the Merger Agreement and is committed to completing the transaction on the terms agreed to last year. Tiffany expects the same of LVMH.»

He stated further, «We believe that LVMH will seek to use any available means in an attempt to avoid closing the transaction on the agreed terms. But the simple facts are that there is no basis under French law for the Foreign Affairs Minister to order a company to breach a valid and binding agreement, and LVMH’s unilateral discussions with the French government without notifying or consulting with Tiffany and its counsel were a further breach of LVMH’s obligations under the Merger Agreement. ‎Moreover, this supposed official French effort to retaliate against the U.S. for proposed new tariffs has never been announced or discussed publicly; how could it possibly then be an effort to pressure the U.S. into revoking the tariffs? Furthermore, as we are not aware of any other French company receiving such a request, it is all the more clear that LVMH has unclean hands.»

Tiffany CEO Alessandra Bogliolo in 2018

Tiffany emphasized that its business remained strong, with sales in the last three months of 2020 expected to exceed the same period last year and that the COVID-19 pandemic has not prevented other parties from making antitrust filings on a timely schedule.

Chief Executive Officer Alessandro Bogliolo underlined, »The fundamental strength of Tiffany’s business is clear. The company has already returned to profitability after just one quarter of losses, and we expect our earnings in the fourth quarter of 2020 will actually exceed the same period in 2019.»

The famous movie scene: Audrey Hepburn in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

Tiffany is seeking to expedite the Delaware proceedings to obtain a ruling prior to November 24, 2020 ordering LVMH to comply with its obligations and complete the transaction on the agreed terms.

An unpleasant turnaround of what we thought would become a love story of the luxury industry. I am very curious to see the outcome. I mean if LVMH walks away completely, Kering or Richmond might jump on the deal and acquire Tiffany. Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Funny composite from the NY Post
Photos: Tiffany & Co., LVMH, Getty

Mademoiselle Chanel’s favourite flower, the camellia, lends itself to every style. Also known as the «Japanese rose», the beautiful flower is mostly found in Asian countries and symbolises long-lasting devotion and became an element of her style in 1913. Its geometric curves encourage endless creativity; its perfect roundness expresses pure femininity. More than a flower, the camellia is an inspiration.

Coco Chanel liked the simplicity of the bloom that has no thorns or fragrance, which means that that it would never clash with her iconic No. 5 fragrance. Furthermore, she loved the shape of the flowers and its white color that stood out against her famous little black dresses. Word has it that she developed the fondness the moment she was presented with a bouquet by her lover, Boy Capel.

I am so in love with my CHANEL Pétales de Camélia ring.

The yellow gold collection, CHANEL Pétales de Camélia, inspired by the designer’s favorite flower was launched last year and I truly love every single piece. Perfect as an everyday jewelry choice, the Camélia collection remains inextricably linked to CHANEL’s spirited personality and creative diversity.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © CHANEL, © Sandra Bauknecht and © David Biedert Photography