Best of New York Fashion Week S/S 2013

Best of NYFashion Week S:S2013

While we are getting our wardrobe ready for the upcoming winter, designers are already showing their S/S 2013 collections. Here is a summary of the most important collections and trends seen at New York Fashion Week. Stay tuned as a detailed report from London, Milan and Paris will follow soon.

In New York, stripes were having a moment this S/S 2013 season. From Marc Jacobs, to Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors, the American majors are getting in line to consider a fashionable life behind bars. Floral patterns and digital prints stay for the next summer, the best ones were seen at Altuzarra and Thakoon. Layering is all about getting this slouchy chic style. My favourite: Prabal Gurung. A must for summer is a pair of strappy, knee-high summer boots, such as spotted at Proenza Schouler.

Enjoy my little runway reviews!

LoL, Sandra

Altuzarra S:S 2013

Joseph Altuzarra came up with a clever way to transform a jacket into a more airy piece by using vents for your arms like a cape, so that the jacket stays in place on your shoulders, even so it comes with sleeves. “It’s how editors wear their coats,” he said of the genesis of the idea to the US Vogue. The draped dresses, the interesting prints and the knee-high Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra sandals make it my favourite NYFW runway collection.

Oscar de la Renta S:S 2013

I love this Oscar de la Renta collection. Punk hair, combined with a ’50s silhouette and pop colors. So much fun and sophistication!

Victoria Beckham S:S 2013

After four years in business, Victoria Beckham‘s designs have evolved. The iconic sheath dresses have got company, separates and suits are now part of her collection as well.

Rodarte S:S 2013

Stylists, editors and bloggers have been buzzing about Rodarte continuously. The eccentric designs of the Mulleavy sisters are truly outstanding. For the next season, the précis described Kate’s and Laura’s inspiration as “medieval and fantasy role-playing games”. Please reserve one of those fashionable armors for me!

Alexander Wang S:S 2013

Alexander Wang‘s runway show for S/S 2013 was ultra-strong with cut-out dresses and footwear to die for. The audience was kindly asked to remain from flash photography which was wishful thinking because when the lights were dimmed down to reveal white looks glowing in an ecclectic shade of yellow, people took their cameras to share this magic moment.

Proenza Schouler S:S 2013

Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez have a young and visionary approach to fashion. This season, they have experimented with leather and print. Very interesting, you have to study the outfit to see all the innovative details.

Ralph Lauren S:S 2013

Viva Espagña! For Ralph Lauren, the next season is all about Matador suits, serapes, ruffles and fringes. Especially, his gowns will be loved by celebrities all around the globe. Olé, fashionistas!

Michael Kors S:S 2013-2

Very preppy, lots of stripes and the four basic colours, this was Michael Kors‘ recipe for his S/S 2013 collection. A subtle ’60s vibe and clean tailoring finished the sophisticated looks. Not new, but very wearable and very American.

TommyHilfiger S:s 2013

Another true prep is, of course, Tommy Hilfiger, who celebrated stripes with a collegiate beat in the all-American shades of red, blue and white. A must for those who are spending their summers in the Hamptons.

Marc Jacobs S:S 2013-2

The bold spirit that Marc Jacobs had been pushing for fall, has transformed into a more calm and artistic vibe. Lots of black and white stripes and wearable cuts, a wind of change is blowing at the American designer, at least for this season.

Thakoon S:S 2013

Thakoon Panichgul has been inspired obviously by an architectural Japanese feeling. Beautiful blooming floral designs and bird prints dominated this feminine collection. So pretty!

Prabal Gurung S:S 2013

This season, Prabal Gurung channeled Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor. Layering was a key element, such as dresses worn over pants. The Kapoor inspiration was also evident in the extraordinary prints and delicate sheer fabrics.

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It was Sophia Kokosalaki‘s last collection for Diesel Black Gold, and probably her best. I truly like this 90’s aesthetic, cool, contemporary with an interesting twist. Her successor, Andreas Melbostad, the former Phi designer, is now in charge to bring the label to the next level.

Rag & Bone S:S2013

David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, the designer duo behind Rag & Bone, showed their refreshing collection at New York’s dramatical and beautiful old US Post Office building, a gorgeous backdrop. The inspiration: A desert traveler.

Reed Krakoff S:S 2013

Reed Krakoff is the new king of intellectual minimalism with a very sexy twist. Strong and sportif, he used a colour palette of nudes, browns and blacks. Those see-through deconstructed dresses will be seen on many editors, for sure.

Edun S:S 2013-2

Edun, the beloved fashion label, run by Irish rocker Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, is based on the commitment to encourage trade in Africa. For S/S 2013 the collection is about the contrasting worlds of the Edun girl – intimate and extroverted, utilitarian and outerworldly.

Marchesa S:S 2013

Personally speaking, the most stunning evening and bridal wear for S/S 2013 is designed by Marchesa‘s Georgina Chapman and Karen Craig. Last week, they announced that they had designed Blake Lively’s wedding gown and her bridesmaids’ dresses. For summer, they take their fans on a stunning journey through India by way of maharani’s wardrobe with the bridal motif certainly at the forefront.

Zac Posen S:S 2013

Zac Posen focused on gowns and a ’40s silhouette. The biggest surprise happened on the runway, supermodels Naomi Campbell, Angela Lindvall and Karolina Kurkova walked in his show.

Ralph Lauren Collection F/W 2012

Ralph Lauren Collection F:W 2012“I have always loved the heritage and romance of England. My collection for Fall 2012 is about a modern glamour inspired by the timeless character and refined elegance of an authentic way of living.” –Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren‘s inspiration were obviously the Roaring Twenties. The first part of his show was devoted to boy-for-girl suits, followed by flapper-like dresses in gold and platinum Art Deco embroideries. So beautiful!

Ralph lauren Collection fall 2012 Shoes

I especially love the Ralph Lauren Collection shoe collection for F/W 2012. Riding boots have been seen on many runways and the American designer’s take on them is just perfect. Click HEREicon to shop.

LoL, Sandra

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Ralph Lauren fall 2012-2Photos: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren

Designer Spotlight: Charlotte Ronson

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Charlotte Ronson, has become one of the most sought after American womenswear designers and her New York Fashion Week runway shows are a must see. Born in London into an artistic family – her older brother is Mark Ronson, the face for Fan di Fendi pour Homme – and raised in New York, Charlotte followed the tradition by developing her own unique style at an early age.

In 2000, Ronson launched her first collection, C. Ronson, which gained instant recognition and the attention of renowned publications. In May 2002, Ronson opened her flagship boutique in New York’s hip Nolita neighborhood.

In 2005, Aaron Nir joined C.Ronson as president and the collection was re-named “Charlotte Ronson” – a natural evolution of the brand and an accurate reflection of who Charlotte is and what she and her customer want to wear. In late 2009, Charlotte and Aaron became partners and established Charlotte Ronson International headquartered in New York City. With Charlotte Ronson’s sense of style and Aaron Nir’s savvy business sense this dynamic team has created a powerful brand with widespread recognition and huge potential.

Known for her impeccable style and trendsetting designs, Ronson’s clothing and accessories have quickly become a favourite among such fashion forward celebrities, models and influencers including Blake Lively, Kirsten Dunst, Nicole Richie, Rihanna, Diane Kruger, Leighton Meester, and Nicky Hilton, whom I spotted at the show.

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Below are some photos I took at the F/W 2012 fashion show in NYC. Her musts for the next season are bohemian prints, an iconic staple. Alongside the Alpine-inspired knits and proper pencil skirts, they look absolutely sophisticated. A modern wardrobe for a real girl. The collection is available at LUISAVIAROMA.COM.

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A little goody spotted front row at the Charlotte Ronson F/W 2012 show:
A fluo pink Céline Boston tote.

LoL, Sandra
Photos: Courtesy of Charlotte Ronson and © Sandra Bauknecht

Gucci Resort 2013

Gucci Resort 2013

Anne Hathaway grabbed attention yesterday at the European Premiere of The Dark Knight Rises in London in a stunning  shimmering gown from Gucci’s Resort 2013 collection. The long-awaited conclusion to Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy is released worldwide tomorrow.

Speaking of Gucci Resort 2013, Frida Giannini seeked inspiration from a glorious 60s and 70s inspired getaway in Capri. Filled with sophisticated and elegant silhouettes, the designer plays with the iconic Flora print. The colours are divine, from vintage-like sorbet shades to earthy tones of beige, brown and black. Embroideries and embellishments on the neckline resemble a summer bouquet. I would love to have every single look!

It is so Bon Chic. Bon Genre!

LoL. Sandra

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LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_43_CUPhotos: Courtesy of Gucci and © Getty Images

The Best from Paris Haute Couture F/W 2012

Haute Couture F:W 2012Last week, the Haute Couture presentations for F/W 2012 took place in Paris and they have brought along some adorable and stunning looks. From Christian Dior to Stéphane Rolland, from Versace to Valentino, enjoy the best of the best.

GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE:

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Personally speaking, Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 2012 is my favourite. It is so modern, edgy and cool. This fringed top above or the long embellished cape with fur details are both to die for! If I could wear couture every day, how I would long for it to be Givenchy Haute Couture…

Givenchy Fur Front

Givenchy Fur Back

STÉPHANE ROLLAND HAUTE COUTURE:

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Stéphane Rolland is always one of the highly anticipated presentations during Haute Couture fashion week in Paris, and this time was no exception. His couture designs are modern and sexy, more of a “Hot Couture”.

Do you remember when supermodel Yasmin Le Bon closed the show in a gigantic red gown last season? Click here for the previous post. This time, it was actress Fan Bingbing, whom I had met at the Trophée Chopard party in Cannes in May, who wowed the guests in a striking sleeveless gown with a cape that took over the entire runway.

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CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE:

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Two contradictory words on the invitation: “New Vintage”. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld returned to the essence of the fashion house and delved into the past with a collection of bouclé jackets and feather-trimmed gowns. His bridal look left me speechless.

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ZUHAIR MURAD HAUTE COUTURE:

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Opulence is what Zuhair Murad is all about. Haute Couture how you imagine it.

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VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE:

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Valentino‘s embroidered and hand-painted looks were proof that couture’s artistry and craftsmanship are higher than ever. Absolutely breathtaking!

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who have been helming the famous label since 2008 following Mr Valentino’s retirement, did a wonderful job.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE:

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Raf Simons’s debut collection for Christian Dior was probably one of  the most refreshing couture show. Clean but masterfully tailored, those strapless embroidered mini gowns over pants, all free from fuss, looked like contemporary couture should look like.

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ATELIER VERSACE:

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Donatella Versace returned to the Ritz Paris for the presentation of her Atelier Versace F/W 2012 collection. 
The famous hotel had hosted many Atelier Versace shows before. Donatella was paying homage to her late brother Gianni with a collection that encapsulated the best of the iconic Versace looks.

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ARMANI PRIVÉ:

Armani Privé Veil

Those sultry veils seen at Armani Privé were outstanding.

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JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE:

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Speaking of Hot Couture, Jean-Paul Gaultier served up a good dose of sexiness with his creations. Gaultier at his best!

I hope that you have enjoyed my little Haute Couture report.

LoL, Sandra

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JPG9Photos: Courtesy of the Brands, © Getty Images

Stella’s Funfair for Cruise 2013

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Last Monday in New York’s Marble Cemetry, Stella McCartney presented her Cruise 2013 collection in a very fun way with all the pleasures of a fair. Anne Hathaway with a fresh pixie crop and Jim Carrey were among the guests who could see the stunning new pieces first. Leopard print, lace and fresh florals in beautiful spring colours dominated Stella’s iconic cuts. What a beautiful collection!

On the menu for the stylish crowd were ice-cream sandwiches, mini tacos and old-school sodas.
I am in love with every single detail!

LoL, Sandra

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IMG_1239Photos: Courtesy of Stella McCartney

Armani Privé Nacre

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For his S/S 2012 fashion show, Giorgio Armani, the king of nonchalant elegance, borrows the luminous magic of Southern Italian summer nights, “when the last rays of the sun shine a myriad of new shades upon the water, when the blue sky turns to night tinged with green, petrol blue and bluish gray hues flushed with violet, when darkness sweeps over the scenery metallic glints silver tones, pale gold and pink copper tints sparkle and when stars seem to float upon the water.”

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Mother-of-pearl (NACRE) gives its name and forms the central theme. With his new Haute Couture Fragrance NACRE, Giorgio Armani accompanies his prêt-à-porter collection with a rare, highly limited and very luxurious fragrance.

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It is an ode to mother-of-pearl which signs each of the 1000 numbered bottles in this edition with a plate bearing its name. No two plates are the same: each is unique, in tribute to the living character of a material born from the depth of the sea. The bottle itself is a piece of art.

The fragrance was developed by perfumer Marie Salamagne, at Firmenich. It has a really spicy woody smell to it, with a strong amount of iris. It’s unisex and definitely something everyone could wear! The iris chosen for Nacre has a very rare quality, combining the rich, creamy facet of iris, with a powdery, almost talc-like note.

Top notes: Bergamot, pink pepper and saffron
Middle notes: Iris absolute and musk
Base notes: Patchouli, vetiver woods and tonka bean

130 bottles of the 1000 limited editions are available in Switzerland now for CHF 690.- (100ml). In Zurich at Jelmoli. Definitely a collector’s piece.

LoL, Sandra

What you wearPhotos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani, © Sandra Bauknecht

Chanel Resort 2013 Backstage

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When Chanel sent me those backstage photos of the Resort 2013 show, I could not wait to share them with you. It is so nice to see the jewelry and details up close.
Personally speaking, this collection is absolutely divine and the floral embellishments on those dresses above leave me absolutely speechless.

“It is Coco rock, French rock with a very 18th century frivolity, one that’s been updated with new materials and new proportions,” Karl Lagerfeld explained.

LoL, Sandra

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Chanel Resort 2013

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As previously reported on Sunday, Chanel‘s Resort 2013 collection was set in the gardens of Versailles and leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to one-up himself with his latest designs.

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In keeping with the show’s setting, the outfits, mostly pastel-coloured, were reminiscent of the Marie Antoinette era. But it is a collection that strikes a fun balance between Louis XVI-era costume design and a decidedly 21st century modernity.

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The voluminous white skirts almost looked like fondant, with ruffles in sugary blues and pinks. Brocade-infused one-piece swimsuits, floral-sleeve frocks, gold-embroidered denim vests, and sheer ruffled skirts, will surely be among Chanel’s new season bestsellers.

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The Boy Bag is still the must-have bag and was re-invented in different versions. Many models wore platform sneakers to their skirts which gave the looks a modern twist.

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The models wore cute wigs tied back with large bows (like a copy of Karl Lagerfeld’s own hairdo) and pink eye shadow and tiny interlocking Cs beneath their eyes, like teardrop tattoos. This totally inspired me for a new sort of beauty mark!

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And the buffet after the show reminded me a little of the beautiful setting at the Paris-Bombay show last December.

Are you ready now to see some of the chicest Chanel Resort 2013 looks? Here you go!

LoL, Sandra

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144481084_10_article_gallery_portraitPhotos: © Getty Images

Fashion at Versailles

Chanel Versailles

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

Couture 2007-Dior

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle – Dior‘s 60th anniversary couture show.

Battle of Versailles 1973

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

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There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
2 Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
3 Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

French Chic

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

24hour Couture

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Tatler

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra