Sandra‘s Closet

Balmain is collaborating with the Paris Opera on «Renaissance», a new creation from choreographer and dancer Sébastien Bertaud, with Balmain’s Creative Director Olivier Rousteing designing all of the ballet’s costumes.

The partnership builds upon the singular talents and visions of two young French talents – both Rousteing and Bertaud are thirty years old and both are from Bordeaux – and their shared appreciation for the history and traditions behind both, Balmain and the Paris Opera.

«Renaissance» forms part of the Bertaud / Bouché / Paul / Valastro performance at the Opera Garnier, running from June 13th through June 19th. The Paris Opera, which will soon celebrate its 350th anniversary, has placed the spotlight squarely on Bertaud and three other emerging creators from the Opera National de Paris, giving each carte blanche for their creation.

Bertaud’s ballet pays tribute to the refinement of the Ecole de Danse Française—from the Versailles of Louis XIV to the Opéra Garnier of today and Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto No. 2. Since his creation celebrates the elegance, sophistication and opulence of the legendary French dance academy, Bertaud believed that a collaboration with Balmain was a natural fit.

“Of course, it is an amazing honor to work with the Paris Opera,” notes Rousteing. “There are few institutions that embody so well the essence of French culture and creativity. Obviously, designing for the rigors and techniques of classical dance was a new challenge for me and my team – but it one that we very much enjoyed facing. As someone who has always been fascinated by the beauty and power of dance, this project was a joy to work on, giving me the unique opportunity to learn from and share ideas with a group of incredibly talented artists and craftsmen for whom nothing seems to be impossible.”

Rousteing’s designs highlight both the acclaimed savoir-faire of the Balmain’s atelier and the recognizable modern style of the designer. Impressive golden and silver embellishments cover flesh-colored performance pieces, with rhinestones and pearls embroidered directly onto bodysuits, tights and draped tees. A similar treatment has been given to the dancers’ spencer coats, cardigans and fringe skirts.

As a ballet addict, I am so much looking forward to seeing the final result of this beautiful collaboration!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Balmain

Luxury online retailer MYTHERESA and 2013 launched fashion brand Off-White collaborated on a special capsule collection which will be sold worldwide exclusively from today. The collection, that consists of 8 pieces, picks up on Off-White’s high-minded take on street wear that embodies multiple juxtapositions, featuring lose shapes and street style in combination with very feminine details such as soft pastels and tight corsages.

An exciting look behind-the-scenes was given to both of the brands followers on social media through the videos “CUT HERE” (to watch part2 and part3 of the video trilogy, click on the highlighted text please), showing the making of the exclusive capsule collection. For the hero piece of the line, the khaki coloured Mackintosh, followers on social media were furthermore invited to be part of the creative process by deciding on the length of the coat.

“The concept for the capsule collection was to embrace the internet’s relation with fashion, to empower the public and broaden while gaining additional fashion critics. The idea is that the garment is labeled with a series of marks. People can chime in with their opinion on where the garment should be cut. I take in the suggestions, but ultimately will make the final decision.” Virgil Abloh, Creative Director Off-White.

The Off-White c/o mytheresa.com exclusive capsule collection will be presented within a dedicated editorial story, featuring behind-the-scenes footage and the possibility to shop the looks directly.

TO SHOP THE EXCLUSIVE OFF-WHITE c/o MYTHERESA CAPSULE COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Mytheresa, Off-White

«Fashion stole my smile» is actually hard to believe when you think that Victoria Beckham received yesterday the Order of the British Empire ceremony as the designer’s and former pop star’s contributions to the national fashion industry were honored at Buckingham Palace. Wouldn’t we all be grinning if we received such a recognition from Prince William?! Dressed in one of her iconic ladylike knit dresses, she was accompanied to the palace by her parents and husband, David Beckham, who was granted the same title 13 years ago.

The dress was really beautiful and cozy. Its bouncing hem gave her a young school girl-like look that she paired with her signature sky-rocketing stilettos for a posh overall look.

Still the question, which she hates the most, is there: Why doesn’t she ever smile?

«I’m smiling on the inside—I feel I have a responsibility to the fashion community.» – Victoria Beckham

Recently she was spotted at LAX airport in a T-shirt from her Victoria, Victoria Beckham Pre-fall 2017 line, that has almost sold out in a second. It should put the issue to rest once and for all.

The slogan tee «Fashion Stole My Smile» is available now for £95.00 online in black and white and in her London store at 36 Dover Street.

YOU CAN SHOP A LARGE SELECTION OF VICTORIA BECKHAM ONLINE HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Victoria Beckham, © Getty Images

Kym Ellery‘s namesake Australian label is a favorite amongst the fashion crowd. So beloved are her iconic bell sleeves and flares that we all have to thank her for the trend that has become so recognizable and so widely copied that it continues to take off.

Hysteria cropped high-rise flared jeans

You should definitely not wait another day and get a pair of her signature mermaid pants. I am speaking of these to-die-for kick-flare trousers that billow out in a way that’s reminiscent of a mermaid tail.

Alejandro ruffled-panel cropped jeans

One thing is for sure, for cult Ellery followers or newbies to the brand, the denim ones will definitely remind you that jeans don’t need to be boring. The mixture of both the silhouette and the finishings are both equally unique.

Jacuzzi stretch wool-blend flared pants

Happy Shopping, mermaids!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Ellery

Industry speculations aren’t always so wrong as we can see now. Yesterday, Givenchy announced Clare Waight Keller, former creative director at Chloé, as the house’s new artistic director. Rumors have been out for months that she will be the first woman leading the French Maison. Waight Keller will oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as haute couture with the appointment becoming effective May 2, 2017. Her first collection for S/S 2018 will be shown in Paris in October.

Clare Waight Keller with me

The British-born replaces Riccardo Tisci, who left the LVMH-owned brand in January, reportedly for Versace, though that appointment has not been made official. With 12 years at the house, Tisci, who is Italian, enjoyed the longest tenure after founder Hubert de Givenchy himself.

“HUBERT DE GIVENCHY’S CONFIDENT STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN INSPIRATION AND I AM VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE A PART OF THIS LEGENDARY HOUSE’S HISTORY.

I LOOK FORWARD TO WORKING WITH THE TEAMS AND WRITING A NEW CHAPTER IN THIS BEAUTIFUL STORY. “ CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

Natacha Ramsay-Levi

But who is following Wright Keller at Chloé? For the world of fashion a popular name, for others probably not: Natacha Ramsay-Levi who has been working along with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga whom she followed 2013 to Louis Vuitton. The French-born was in a relationship with fashion «enfant terrible» and «Purple»-founder Olivier Zahm, with whom she has a son.

New year, new designer moves… let’s keep the fashion world busy!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Chloé

“We feel it’s inevitable and crucial to create contemporary clothing,” says Demna Gvasalia, the Creative Director of Paris design collective VETEMENTS.

The Maison Margiela alumni elevates deceptively simple pieces with meticulous construction, considered fabrics and playful proportions. Georgian Demna Gvasalia graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2006. After designing womenswear for Maison Martin Margiela, he worked as head designer for Louis Vuitton womenswear. In 2014, he launched the label VETEMENTS, a design collective comprising Demna, his brother Guram and five other friends, that is based on the idea of urban cultures, the internet, everyday life on the streets and a modern wardrobe without seasonal themes.

Vetements is THE trend-setting label at the moment. Demna Gvasalia, the brainchild behind the hot fashion brand and creative director at even hotter fashion house Balenciaga, is serving up clothes that come with a healthy side dish of humor. Just think of the famous DHL T-shirt or the Polizei cap.

Just now, bigger plans have been revealed for the company. Demna and his younger brother and CEO Guram Gvasalia decided to move their headquarters and design offices to Zurich in Switzerland. How cool is that? In the former headquarters of Bernie’s Fashion that went bankrupt, Vetements has opened its doors.

Don’t miss the cult collaboration with Manolo Blahnik by clicking here that is available now!

Vetements + Manolo Blahnik printed satin pumps

Personally speaking, I love watching the hype about Vetements –  still in my closet there is no piece yet. Just saying… but I absolutely adore what he does for BALENCIAGA.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Vetements and Getty Images, via Manrepeller/Hypebeast

Lately, I was invited by Perfumery Osswald in Zurich and had the amazing honor to have dinner with Frédéric Malle, a very captivating and inspirational gentleman, a father of four, and the man behind the niche fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Born in 1962, he grew up immersed in the world of perfumery (his grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Christian Dior Perfumes, and Frédéric’s mother later worked as an Art Director for the same perfume house) and has a deep knowledge of raw materials, fragrance structure and accords that he shared with me that night. His ‘Editions’ collection includes scents by distinguished noses including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Pierre Bourdon.

With Frédéric Malle at dinner at the Widder hotel.

Malle studied art history and economics at New York University. In 1988, he began his career at Roure Bertrand Dupont, the prestigious perfume laboratory. After working in the industry for more than 12 years, Frederic was ready to embark on a new adventure.

4 of his first launched perfumes in 2000: Lipstick Rose (Ralf Schwieger), Musc Ravager (Maurice Roucel), En Passant (Olivia Giacobetti) and Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion).

In 2000, using his connections and experience in the industry, Frédéric invited nine top perfumers to design their own original perfumes with no restrictions, not even financially regarding their ingredients they chose. Thanks to Frédéric Malle, the return to luxury perfumery took place at the beginning of our century. In an era in which most companies put more importance on brand names, Malle brought the attention back to the product itself: perfume.

Until today, through a simple “back to basics” approach, Editions de Parfums is challenging all prevailing trends. Frédéric Malle’s contribution to the creation of the different fragrances sold under Editions de Parfums varies depending on the perfumers’ desire. Perfumers appeal to him to assess their work in progress and to share ideas.

These fragrances are packaged in bottles that feature the name of the perfumer—a first in the industry, where the perfumer is traditionally behind the scenes and credit for the scent is given to the fashion house or celebrity on the bottle. While we were talking during dinner, I could sense that Frédéric Malle is very fond of Dominique Ropion‘s work. The two of them seem to build an amazing team.

The development of a signature scent is a lengthy process, generally lasting between 6 and 18 months. Each fragrance starts with an idea, an “olfactive sketch,” which can either take the form of a material base – the mix of two or three raw materials, like colors in an abstract painting – or of an initial feeling, the desire to translate or convey a specific emotion. From there, the perfumers gradually build a full-scale composition, tinkering and problem-solving until a perfect balance is achieved. The challenge is to polish and perfect without losing the impact and personality of the original idea.

“Eliminate all that is superfluous or merely decorative” – this, Frédéric Malle’s credo, is the only rule imposed on the house perfumers. Malle requests that each fragrance be designed to uniquely merge with the wearer’s skin rather than to just be a “pretty scent.”

Designer Frédéric Malle has more than 25 perfumes available at the moment, made in collaboration with perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Bruno Jovanovic, Carlos Benaim, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Edmond Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger, Edouard Flechier, Michel Roudnitska and Sophia Grojsman.

New investments under the new helmet: Frédéric Malle’s London store at 14, Burlington Arcade.

Two years ago, The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

Frédéric Malle said about his decision to sell part of his company: “The Estée Lauder Companies has great respect for the art of perfumery and for the creativity, dedication and mastery required to create truly exceptional fragrance experiences. The company’s commitment to a high standard of excellence and ability to support the growth of entrepreneurial concepts in a way that preserves all that is unique and special makes The Estée Lauder Companies the ideal partner for us.”

A truly inspirational creator and a real business man!

TO SHOP FREDERIC MALLE ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
In Switzerland a large selection is available at Perfumery Osswald in Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Frédéric Malle and © Sandra Bauknecht, via Mr Porter

In a special tribute to RICHARD NICOLL, London Fashion Week February 2017 salutes his talent with a colour dedicated to him, NICOLL BLUE. Chosen by a group of close friends, the blue is said, by Laurie Pressman of the Pantone Color Institute who developed the colour, to embody “the elegance and sensitive spirit of this much beloved designer whose innate kindness, loving soul and good natured sense of humour held a special allure to all that entered into his orbit.“

The Arundel St and main entrance to The Store Studios, 180 Strand; the central hub of LFW, have been painted in Nicoll Blue to honour the designer after his sudden passing in October, 2016. The 39-year old died from a heart attack in his home town Sydney.

ABOUT RICHARD NICOLL

Born in London and brought up in Australia, Richard Nicoll graduated from Central Saint Martins MA in 2002. His entire graduate collection was famously purchased by Dolce & Gabbana right after. He launched his eponymous label in 2005 and quickly found fans in the likes of Kylie Minogue, Kate Bosworth, and Julianne Moore. He emerged as a member of the new wave of London talent, whose original take on modern sportswear fused with relaxed tailoring won him NEWGEN sponsorship in 2006 and three Association Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode (ANDAM) awards. His experience beyond his eponymous label included freelance design for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, the creative direction of Cerruti 1881, Fred Perry and later of youth label Jack Wills. In June 2012 he launched his debut menswear line at London Collections Men (now London Fashion Week Men’s). In 2015, he shuttered his namesake company and moved from London to Sydney.

Before his death, he had been preparing to start a new job as creative director at adidas in January 2017.

Richard Nicoll loved blue, here a look from his F/W 2014 collection.

To honour Richard, a minute’s silence will be observed just before the Central Saint Martins MA show on Friday 17th February. Plans are underway for a multifaceted, retrospective exhibition of the designer’s work to launch later in the year.

YOU CAN SHOP SOME OF THE LAST PIECES OF RICHARD NICOLL AT THE OUTNET BY CLICKING HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Richard Nicoll (courtesy of Jack Wills),  Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Last night, I attended the 11th edition of the MODE SUISSE at the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Ruling the runway were upcoming and established Swiss labels. A well prepared and entertaining presentation that showed a lot of passion for fashion in Switzerland. Some might still be too experimental, reminiscent of graduates at a design school, but the dedication that went into the work was absolutely worth it.

Bravo for the model casting! Very professional!

Some of my own impressions of last night.

Girls squad: Laurence Antiglio, my humble self, Alexandra Kruse, Lisa Feldmann and Catherine Gonin.

MODE SUISSE 11th Edition – THE DESIGNER

Julia Seemann
Ruling the runway was this upcoming Swiss label, one my favorites of last night. A little touch of Vetements paired with some Alessandro Michele ruffles, Julia used some of the most trending details of the season for this fun collection.

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LYN Lingerie
Just beautiful! Those lingerie pieces are ultra daring and very luxurious, all hand-made in the Swiss atelier, soon also available at Breuninger Germany.

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enSoie
Founded by Monique Meier, enSoie creates socially responsible fashion in Zurich, Los Angeles and Kolkata. Now in the hands of the youngest daughter Anna Meier, the label experiences a makeover. So Zurich, so Swiss, so traditional! 

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LIDA NOBA
Inspired by her Iranian roots, the designer created fluid lines with feminine details. Personally speaking, some of the looks were a little too much “Chloé”, but other parts have absolutely convinced me such as the dress below.

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GARNISON
The label’s post-dandy menswear starring Louis Vuitton-exclusive Noah Brown (see above) and Zegna-boy Fallou Gueye (see below).

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Julian Zigerli
Julian Zigerli’s second showing of womenswear and the gender fluid menswear that he is known for, this season inspired by the musical «Cats».

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studiowinkler
For me, this was not Julia Winkler’s strongest collection. The looks were not very flattering, the music was depressive, this season she was a little too much experimental.

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WUETHRICHFUERST
The designer duo made their much-anticipated debut at Mode Suisse. The fashion brand is based in Basel and their garments are not particulary linked to the seasons. The cosmic prints reminded me a bit of Christopher Kane. I like!

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Adrian Reber
The Swiss designer uses vintage fur patches to create new pieces. I would like to see some men on the Swiss streets in those extravagant looks or probably not… what do you think?

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HEAD – Genève
The work of Jeremy Gaillard, Vanessa Schindler and Flore Girard de Langlade were presented during the 11th edition of  Mode Suisse.

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Special Guest – DOROTHEE VOGEL
Dorothee continues to be one of the most significant players in Swiss fashion. Her perfectly finished waisted jackets are legendary.

I hope that you enjoyed my little summary of last night. Great news is that Mode Suisse intents to make sure Swiss designer fashion is not only presented on the catwalk but becomes a day-to-day experience for everyone. You can try on and buy Edition 11 creations in the Mode Suisse pop-up store until February 25, 2017. Location: enSoie, Strehlgasse 26, 8001 Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Mode Suisse 11 by Alexander Palacios and © Sandra Bauknecht
Photos of the ladies and of me: © David Biedert Photography

This was breaking news this week, Riccardo Tisci is leaving Givenchy after 12 years with the brand and the house won’t show during Paris Fashion Week. His F/W 2017 menswear collection and S/S 2017 Haute Couture collection, shown together on the runway in Paris on January 20, were his last for the label.

Riccardo Tisci with Beyoncé photographed by Anton Corbjin for Vogue September 2015.

If you are one of Riccardo Tisci’s 1.8 million Instagram followers, then you probably already know that the Givenchy designer is loved by celebrities such as Beyoncé, Madonna, Rihanna and many more… Ticsi’s exit finishes one of the fashion industry’s longest and most successful appointments.

Givenchy sequin dress and fox fur cape in US Vogue April 2014.

In the last year and a half, Dior, Valentino, Lanvin, Chloé, Saint Laurent, and more have seen their designers leave, which seems to lead to the fact that the short-term position for the creative director of around 3 to 4 years is becoming the new normal.

At the moment, the industry is changing anyway dramatically…

Givenchy ad campaign 2015 featuring Donatella Versace.

Concerning Tisci’s future, rumors are out that he will move to Versace, a brand that he has long expressed his admiration for, especially for the work of the late Gianni Versace. Ticsi has built up a close friendship with Gianni’s sister, Donatella, whom he invited to pose in a Givenchy ad campaign in 2015. Donated herself called Tisci’s F/W 2011 collection an homage to her brother. For a previous post, click here please.

To pay tribute to this fabulous designer, let’s indulge in some of his most amazing fashion moments, such as his famous Bambi sweater, his love for Rottweilers, and the most beautiful floral prints.

Have a look at some of my personal Givenchy highlights of the last years…
TRIBAL – WILD FLOWER – ON THE RED CARPET IN CANNES – DANCING ON MULHOLLAND DRIVE – DINNER AT L’ARC IN PARIS

For Riccardo Tisci, I think it is time to move on. Personally speaking, I have always been a great Givenchy fan, but change means new inspiration! And that is always good…

The fashion wheel is spinning again… let’s stay tuned!

TO SHOP TISCI’S LAST COLLECTION FOR GIVENCHY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue, Givenchy and © Sandra Bauknecht