Sandra‘s Closet

This week, Nicolas Ghesquière sent the models mingling with ancient Roman, Greek, and Etruscan sculptures to the tunes of Daft Punk’s mega-hit «Around the World» down the Louvre’s Denon wing for his Louis Vuitton F/W 2021 show without an audience due to the current pandemic.

The press release stated: «There’s no need to venture far to create the impression of traveling. It’s enough to reach far back… to the Golden Age, or Age of Enlightenment, eras that forged the essence of our civilization. Everything is expressed so purely in Greco-Roman antiquity, the acme of an aesthetic whose primacy is uncontested. More than a journey, Louis Vuitton embarks on an odyssey with a F/W 2021 collection that incorporates fabulous drawings by Fornasetti, the delicate, fanciful engravings of an enduring era. His imaginative strokes explore, illustrate and impart style. It’s also a story of conquest — of body, heart and mind — in which humankind takes centre stage, in all its functional elegance, intellectual dominance, and earthly seduction. The astonishment of age-old principles endures and continues to guide us, such as contrapposto, a stance that first appeared in the 6th century BC and lent statues a dynamic allure, which countless couture poses have reprised since and still denotes a certain stylistic tension in fashion.»

I absolutely loved how Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director of Women’s collections Nicolas Ghesquière has explored the unique creative world of renowned Italian artistic design atelier Fornasetti for the Maison’s F/W 2021 collection. The multifaceted collection showcases Fornasetti’s iconic hand-drawn imagery that has enchanted art and design lovers since Piero founded his atelier in 1940.

The collaboration begins with Nicolas Ghesquière’s F/W 2021 collection which integrates Fornasetti’s distinct visual universe into multiple designs. Unveiled in the spectacular setting of the Michelangelo and Daru Galleries in the Louvre, the collection with its Fornasetti images of antiquity builds a time-travelling aesthetic and creative dialogue with the museum’s remarkable array of Greek, Etruscan and Roman sculpture.

The collaborative designs in the F/W 2021 collection feature specific Fornasetti themes and artworks, selected by Nicolas Ghesquière in dialogue with Barnaba Fornasetti, the Artistic Director of the Fornasetti atelier, and their teams, from the 13,000-piece Fornasetti archive in Milan. These clothes and accessories use a rich combination of colours, textures and traditional, cutting-edge techniques including jacquard, embroidery and laser printing, intertwining Fornasetti’s exquisitely illustrated world with Nicolas Ghesquière’s strikingly contemporary design.

Highlights include velvet dresses, shiny printed jersey tops upon which Fornasetti drawings of ancient statues are overlaid on high-tech thermal-camera imagery, as well as fleece hooded jackets and tailoring pieces. Oversize outerwear pieces feature Fornasetti print both in a stamp inspired coloured version and, in a gold, coated version.

The show collection will be followed by a wider Louis Vuitton-Fornasetti capsule collection to be launched at a later date featuring a broader selection of Louis Vuitton products that draw on Fornasetti motifs, such as buildings, locks, keys and portraits. These include a captivating version of the Cannes bag in transformed leather, beautifully embellished with a Fornasetti black-and-white architectural drawing and reminiscent of the Renaissance-era Baptistery in Florence, and a reworked Petite Malle that seems to have been inflated and covered with a dome printed metallic leather, creating a striking optical illusion.

«With this collaboration, I wanted to use the pieces to evoke the continuing modernity of Fornasetti’s artistic world,» says Nicolas Ghesquière. «Fornasetti’s enduring body of work is the realisation of a remarkable hand-drawn technique and magical take on the world, and I am particularly drawn to the way Fornasetti re-explored and reworked the heritage of classicism and ancient Rome, adding new references to historical imagery. As a designer who has always loved fashion’s ability to evoke the past, present and future simultaneously, I wanted to add new layers to this creative palimpsest. Exploring the Fornasetti archives had the excitement of an archaeological dig, searching for and finding drawings from the past to give them a new life for Louis Vuitton – for now and the future.»

«My father was an innovator who believed in the handmade, just like Louis Vuitton,» says Barnaba Fornasetti, son of Piero Fornasetti, and the brand’s artistic director. «Our vision has always been to bring Fornasetti’s unique artistic imagination to people through beautifully crafted objects, and this rewarding collaboration represents a new opportunity to expand and explore its visual creativity.»

In all its facets, the Louis Vuitton-Fornasetti collaboration embodies the two Houses’ shared sense of experimental traditionalism: an effective blend of Louis Vuitton’s forward-looking creativity and craft and Fornasetti’s magical and visionary depiction of the world.

Personally speaking, I absolutely love it! Finally, a collection with creativity behind it. Something that has been missing lately…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
DISCLOSURE: This post is NOT sponsored. I am just loving it!

Birkenstock’s partnership with London fashion institution Central Saint Martins is launching the result of a two-year project with the BA Fashion History & Theory and MA Fashion courses. Releasing four designs and Birkenstock’s first-ever Archive style. Initiated in 2018, the project saw the CSM BA Fashion History & Theory course research and enrich Birkenstock’s prolific archive. Enabling students to immerse into Birkenstock’s culture and legacy to finally extract and define the core elements of Birkenstock’s history spanning over 250 years. The result of this research translated into a second project with the MA Fashion course. Inviting students to give their interpretation of emblematic styles in their contemporary way, thus shaping the future of the iconic German brand.

The four winning students with Fabio Piras.

One year later a jury of 12 renowned industry leaders led by Birkenstock CEO Oliver Reichert, MA Fashion Course Director Fabio Piras and fashion critic Sarah Mower MBE, were invited by Birkenstock to review all student portfolios and selected a shortlist of 10 finalists awarded as the winning designs with a first bursary award.

My favorites: Moto Sandal by Alex Wolfe.

Over a year of product development, four of the student designs have qualified for serial production.  Each design has the student’s name embossed in the iconic Birkenstock footbed. Experiencing the challenge to realize the product innovation delivered by these students is a good challenge. «We are proud to have a proven impact on these early careers and are counting this as one of our most relevant projects», states CEO Oliver Reichert.

Bukarest style in white by Alecsander Rothschild

The release of the collection is supported by a short film, seeing the jury and the professors exchange their views on the final product with the students. The jury was headed by Sarah Mower MBE and included CSM alumni Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda discussing with Gert Jonkers, Claudia Croft, Mimma Viglezio, Osman Ahmed, and Nick Vinson.

THE COLLECTION

Moto Sandal by CSM graduate Alex Wolfe (1991*)
Using Birkenstock’s expertise in orthopaedic shoe design Wolfe’s take on the Rotterdam Moto sandal challenges us with urban graphic as well as a striking upper leg design. Relying on Birkenstock’s very own eudermic material Birko-Flor he creates a flexible shield, whereas the foot lining of Nappa leather and suede offers a soft and soothing bed.

Cosy style by CSM graduate Dingyun Zhang (1995*)
Zhang’s pillow like version of the Arizona sandal takes inspiration from futuristic outerwear and oversized puffers. As a homage to comfort Cosy transforms the Arizona into a supportive, timeless classic. Its monochrome, contrasting color choice of snow white straps and black sole (and vice versa) fortifies the long-lasting design approach.

Terra style by CSM graduate Saskia Lenaerts (1993*)
As a reference to the classic Milano sandal, Terra’s prominent stitches replicates footlines, while Suede, Nappa and Nubuk leather offer comfort. Using contrasting colours like black/white and black/ultra blue the designer recreates the shadow play of an engraved footprint in the sand.

Bukarest style by CSM student Alecsander Rothschild (1992*)
Inspired by Brancusi’s contrasting use of different materials and textures Rothschild works equally with three kinds of leather to express his version of Birkenstock: Rustic black oiled nubuck leather or innocent white debossed leather, Rothschild offers a third version in shiny Silver.

Tallahassee Archive Style
To complement the student designs, the iconic Birkenstock Tallahassee Style from the 1990s sees a rebirth in contrast color designs. Uniting an artistic touch with long practiced craftsmanship the Tallahassee ornaments the foot without compromising comfort. As a woven coat the debossed leather enrobes the wearer like a second skin.

The collection is available with select stores worldwide and on 1774.com from now.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Birkenstock, © Walter Pfeiffer
#BIRKENSTOCKxCSM

Personally speaking, it was THE show of Paris Fashion Week that I have been eagerly waiting for: Gabriela Hearst’s first collection for Chloé.

Hearst called her first collection for the French Maison the «Aphrodite» to her own brand’s «Athena». Chloé in Greek means «blooming». The question is if it is a new bloom for the Maison with Hearst at the helm. It definitely is in terms of sustainability and this key word was Hearst’s approach to Chloé’s F/W 2021 collection: sustainability was her inspiration, her technique, her fabrics and even her volumes.

The Uruguayan-American designer claimed in the press release that Chloé’s F/W 2021 collection could be considered «four times more sustainable compared to last year,» and she explained that she got there by «eliminating virgin synthetic fiber (polyester) or artificial cellulosic fiber (viscose) and sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim,» adding that «more than 50% of the silk comes from organic agriculture and more than 80% of cashmere yarn for knitwear is recycled.»

This earthy point of view is also something Hearst is known for at her own eponymous brand. For me, I had to look at the collection many times until it has started to warm up to me. You have to understand it to like it as there is not something really excitingly new for the eye, but for your consciousness. I can see the DNA of both brands. However, it is missing this romantic, bohemian playfulness I have always loved at Chloé, even that Hearst only sent dresses down the digital runway.

Gabriela Hearst presented the last look herself.

My favorite item was the coat Gabriela wore for the finale of the show, along with the eco-leather dresses and the printed puffer coats. Hearst created them by repurposing from Chloé overstock spanning designers and eras, with Sheltersuit, a nonprofit organization providing aid to the homeless, which also collaborated on a series of backpacks. The marble prints on blouses and dresses had been created by the artist Peter Miles using seaweed and eggs.

The show was presented digitally last week on March 3rd, one hundred years to the day of founder Gaby Aghion’s birth. Both Gaby and Gabi, as is Hearst’s nickname too, are two strong fashion designers that interpret femininity in their own independent way and respective generations. It is surely a very viable wardrobe with lots of investment pieces to last for a very long time. As Hearst noted to Gaby in a statement, «your House is in good hands» – I would sign that! At least she made me start to re-think the state of fashion today.

LoL, Sandra

The rebirth of Chloé’s Edith bag by Gabriela Hearst.

Photos: © Chloé

Due to the current pandemic, the wedding-world has been a turmoil. So many celebrations have been cancelled or rescheduled including mine. However, it hasn’t been all so bad, as brides-to-be have far more time than usual to concentrate on what they will be wearing on their big day.

As soon as social restrictions are lifted, nuptials will return. This will hopefully happen latest this summer. In case you are looking for the perfect wedding dress, have a look at Simone Rocha‘s first bridal capsule collection, that has launched exclusively at MYTHERESA.

«The idea behind this bridal collection is to translate signatures from the S/S21 collection into the world of bridal through fabrications, embellishments and embroideries,» the London-based Irish designer designer shared on Instagram. Known for her distinctive romantic designs, her debut bridal collection consists of eight ethereal dresses that feature her signature voluminous silhouettes and pearls. From lace organza, tulle and silk taffeta in petal pink, pastel yellow and classical white, to accessories including faux pearl headbands, earrings and hair clips, Rocha has included everything a modern, romantic bride could wish for. It is the perfect translation of some of her signature looks from her S/S 2021 collection into wedding-worthy pieces.

Last year, a large amount of cancelled weddings have been rescheduled for 2021. However, those who couldn’t wait, gave rise to starting more intimate ceremonies that are shared on Zoom for example, which leads also.  That in turn leads to brides-to-be are searching for more low-key style options. Unlike large, statement styles, Rocha’s dresses are comfortable and easy-to-wear, and transferrable to other occasions. A worthy investment, indeed.

TO SHOP THE EXCLUSIVE SIMONE ROCHA BRIDAL COLLECTION AT MYTHERESA, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

And don’t forget… tomorrow Simone Rocha’s highly anticipated H&M collaboration will hit the shelves. Probably a great way to experience Simone Rocha’s world before walking down the aisle…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Simone Rocha / Mytheresa
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

Happy International Women’s Day to all my fabulous readers and all those fantastic women in this world! You are the fire, the light, the roar; you’re a woman. May the world hear you roar. All I wish on this special day that you never stop dreaming and believing in yourself. Don’t let yourself hold back by criticism of jealous people! Put on some fun clothes and enjoy this day.

I love the unexpected combination of denim and brocade. And even if it’s tempting, don’t bite your croissant bag too hard… it is a great way to indulge in something sweet without the calories!

My look: Brocade-detail denim jacket, ruffle detail skirt, croissant crossbody bag, and leaf embroidered high denim boots, all by Moschino, and vintage earrings by Dior.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Biedert Photography
The photos were taken at Baur’s in Zurich.
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise. 

On the occasion of the International Women’s Day, La Prairie announces lead patronage of Niki de Saint Phalle‘s most substantial U.S. retrospective at MoMA PS1 in New York.

On view from March 11 to September 6, 2021, Niki de Saint Phalle: Structures for Life will feature over 200 works created from the mid-1960s until the artis’s death, highlighting Saint Phalle’s interdisciplinary approach and engagement.

Niki de Saint Phalle. Californian Diary (Order and Chaos). 1994

La Prairie honours Niki de Saint Phalle’s audacious and visionary feminist spirit – her defiance of social norms and her willingness to break the codes both in her personal life and work. The work of Niki de Saint Phalle has a particular resonance for La Prairie as it was her striking use of cobalt blue that was the inspiration behind La Prairie’s iconic Skin Caviar Collection colour.

Niki de Saint Phalle. Flaçon de parfum. 1982

In 1982, Niki was developing her eponymous fragrance from her atelier in a shared design studio in
New York where La Prairie’s team would often engage in creative exchanges. When La Prairie
encountered Niki de Saint Phalle’s cobalt blue – her favourite colour that she describes «as the colour
of joy and luck» – the link became clear: only cobalt blue would do. A fortunate encounter that would
spark a bond with the House of La Prairie and seal it forever.

La Prairie Skin Caviar Collection

Just as Niki de Saint Phalle raised awareness on modernist, progressive views, La Prairie’s founder paved the way to pioneering discoveries. Dr. Paul Niehans was a dreamer, a seeker of beauty. Art was central to his science, central to his dream to hold time in his hand, central to his pioneering spirit. A spirit mirrored in Niki de Saint Phalle’s inner flame of audacity. She expressed a new femininity, one which stood in opposition to the conventional influences and values of society.

Niki de Saint Phalle working on the set for The Travelling Companion at her studio near Milly-la-Forêt. 1977.

Through her lifetime, Niki de Saint Phalle used her platform as an artist to bring attention to various issues advocating for women’s equality to provoke and trigger conversations – a legacy that today continues to inspire new generations of artists and women beyond. Niki de Saint Phalle also shaped art movements such as Nouveau Réalisme. As the only woman in the 1960s-founded group, she offered a unique perspective and proved her art was as innovative as her male counterparts.

Niki de Saint Phalle. La femme et L’oiseau fontaine. 1967–88

«Niki de Saint Phalle created artwork that explicitly rejected patriarchal values and artistic convention. Her Nanas confront Western standards of femininity and decorum: they are brash, ecstatic, and embrace sexuality. She created her Nanas at such a large scale specifically so that they could dominate – literally tower over – men. Saint Phalle was also an iconoclast in her personal style and way of life,» according to Ruba Katrib, Curator of the exhibition.

Last Night I had a dream, 1968-1988

This collaboration with the upcoming exhibition at MoMA PS1 in New York is an opportunity for the Swiss luxury house to enable the world to experience Saint Phalle’s revolutionary work. It is also an expansion of La Prairie’s support of art and culture by creating new connections with the world of art and its various representatives, whether emerging or established artists or cultural institutions. A commitment that continues to flourish and to build on the House’s existing partnerships with art fairs Art Basel and West Bund Art & Design and the iconic Fondation Beyeler in Switzerland.

More information at moma.org/ps1. I would love to see this exhibition and truly hope that we will be able to travel to the U.S. soon again.

LoL, Sandra

Niki de Saint Phalle with La Fontaine Stravinsky

Photos: Courtesy of La Prairie, © 2021 Niki Charitable Art Foundation
© Michiko Matsumoto, © Leonardo Bezzola Estate

Designer collaborations have had their time. Today, it is more trendy that two brands team up together, such as The North Face x Gucci, Jimmy Choo x Marine Serre and many more. However, H&M, the Swedish retailer, that made designer collaborations fashionable, is sticking to its concept, not as loud as before, but definitely something for the fashion-loving customer around the globe, as for the first time, the Simone Rocha universe is opened up and extended to everyone. Meet the London-based Irish designer and get a glimpse of what this year’s collaboration will bring.

Fashion Designer Simone Rocha

History and heritage. Details and fabrications. Family and community. The many facets of womanhood. For fashion designer Simone Rocha, born in Dublin in 1986, her work and collections are a tribute to what she holds dear. She began her career as part of the talent hub Fashion East, where her take on modern beauty won praise as she reclaimed ‘girlish’ elements — florals, embellishments, collars, pearls — in a nuanced manner. Since debuting at London Fashion Week in 2010, she has become internationally renowned for her intricate and meticulously-researched collections, always with a nod to her own heritage: Ireland and Hong Kong.

In creating the collection for H&M, Rocha spent time reflecting on and revisiting her brand’s archive, combing her past collections and carefully reworking beloved pieces into unexpected new designs that feel right for now.

«To be honest, it was really emotional going through all the pieces — it was a wonderful chance to reflect on seasons I was especially proud of, and to revisit collections that felt like milestones, and little gems of ideas that we maybe didn’t push as far as we wanted to the first-time round. The archive is so important to the way I work as a designer anyway. We are not a brand that abandons ideas each season — we often look back on past propositions or continue to evolve a silhouette, or shape,» says Rocha.

The Simone Rocha x H&M collection includes her signature womenswear alongside menswear and kidswear, marking the first time she has offered a wardrobe for the whole family. All the garments are designed to be in conversation with each other. So, what to expect from this year’s awaited collaboration? Delicate tulle dresses, tartan tailoring, beaded shirting, cable knits, outerwear such as trench coats and signature accessories like sparkling jewellery and pearl-embellished shoes. The entire range comes in Simone Rocha’s identifiable and poetic colour palette that mixes cream, pink, red and black. The majority of the Simone Rocha x HM women’s collection goes up to size EUR L=44/46 and UK L=16/18 and US XL=48/50.

«My approach at every stage of the design process was to remember that for some this would be an introduction to Simone Rocha, a chance to enjoy the brand for the first time, while for others this will be a chance to recall the history of a brand that they have followed for a while. Maybe they will be able to buy a version of a piece that they missed the first time, or a piece they always wanted but didn’t get. Through H&M, they will be able to access a new, timeless, special piece to mix in with their existing items from past runway collections. I really hope there is something for everyone — every woman, every guy, the whole family,» says Rocha.

Family is of utmost importance to Rocha, as well as her community of friends and collaborators. Therefore, the Simone Rocha x H&M story is brought to life by the people who surround and inspire her. To name a few: stylist, collaborator and close friend Robbie Spencer, model and friend Tess McMillan, sisters Adwoa and Kesewa Aboah, activist and artist — and acclaimed actress Daisy Edgar-Jones.

«Any time that I’m on set with Simone, or behind the scenes at a show, you just feel this certain warmth — there’s never any stress, and you can tell that she fills her work space with people who really inspire her in her everyday life, and that’s what brings this certain sense of community, and certain sense of ease. I always just feel so comfortable, because you are surrounded by people who are just really fun to be around. I have worked with her for four seasons now, and every time I’m just so excited to see everyone — to see the designers, the stylist, all the people who help me get dressed, it’s the same faces. It’s a really, really amazing community, truly. And I always look forward to laughing and catching up,» says McMillan.

The Simone Rocha x H&M collection launches 11 March.
I love the campaign… reminds me so much of a Jo Malone ad. To see me wearing Simone Rocha, have a look here.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © H&M

GEM DIOR, Victoire de Castellane‘s new collection, celebrates her love of stones by presenting pieces with singular and surprising shapes. This amazingly beautiful line of abstract, 1970s-flavored watches and jewelry features patches of various gemstones — marking the first time the Dior designer has created a watches and jewelry collection together.

Each creation, inspired by couture and Mr. Dior’s colorful fabric samples, is made up of asymmetrical and angular sections set side by side like mineral strata. This collection celebrates natural and authentic beauty through unique, strong pieces.

The new Gem Dior line includes seven watch models with irregular, octagonal faces and clasp-less bracelets, as well as 11 pieces of jewelry — rings, bracelets and earrings, that draw inspiration from the geometry of stones. Additional interchangeable alligator bracelets come for the watches.

I am loving it.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dior

After a year like no other, supporting and celebrating feels more important than ever for NET-A-PORTER that showcase their #PowerToChange commitment by collaborating with incredible female designers to create an exclusive INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY EDIT, reflecting the designers’ personal interpretation of female empowerment. 13 exclusive pieces across ready-to-wear, lifestyle and jewelry, with 100 percent of the NET-A-PORTER profits donated to Women for Women International, helping women living in war-torn countries rebuild their lives and creating lasting change in their communities.

To showcase these 13 exclusive fabulous pieces, some incredible women have been invited to wear these T-shirts with pride, among them supermodel, mother, writer and activist Coco Rocha, Interior designer, culinary storyteller and entertaining expert Athena Calderone and Model, student and co-author of Mixed Feelings, Naomi Shimada, just to name a few.

The exclusive collection consists of nine T-shirts, designed by Stella McCartney, Emilia Wickstead, Westman Atelier, Tove, Anya Hindmarch, Jennifer Fisher, Simone Rocha, Amina Muaddi and Ninety Percent; jewelry by Roxanne Assoulin and Alighieri, and homeware by Anissa Kermiche.

Model and LGBTQ+ campaigner Teddy Quinlivan sports Westman Atelier’s ‘FORCE FEMININE’ T-shirt.

«Nothing is more powerful than women connecting, inspiring and advocating for
each other which is why I’m so honored to be supporting Women for Women International. We have to invest in those who are held back by social, cultural and economic inequality. Women are the driving force of change.» – Gucci Westman / Wetsman Atelier

Author, writer and founder of Gal-Dem – the award-winning media company committed to sharing the perspectives of people of color from marginalized communities – Liv Little is wearing the Tove ‘Womanhood’ embroidered T-shirt.

In addition to the donation of 100 percent of profits from the sales within this collection, for every public post tagged #PowerToChange, @womenforwomen and @netaporter on TikTok or Instagram, between now to March 8, 2021, NET-A-PORTER will donate $1 to Women for Women International.  I encourage you to take part in this, so please do share your posts and pledges!

TO SHOP THE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY EDIT, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Net-à-Porter
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

One thing you should not have missed when visiting Gstaad, is the outdoor sculpture MIRAGE GSTAAD. Until this month, the mirror house designed by Los Angeles-based artist Doug Aitken stands on the hiking trail between Schönried and Gstaad and can only be reached on foot.

With every available surface clad in mirror, it both absorbs and reflects the landscape around in such ways that the exterior will seemingly disappear just as the interior draws the viewer into a never-ending kaleidoscope of light and reflection. With the help of my tripod, I shot this outfit post by myself – a comfortable look that is perfect for hiking around Gstaad.

My look: Lawrence space-dyed cashmere sweater, and Lauren fringed space-dyed cashmere wrap, both by Gabriela Hearst, skinny jeans «Kate» by Dolce & Gabbana, Biker II leather boots by Jimmy Choo, Loulou heart-shaped acetate sunglasses by Saint Laurent, Clash de Cartier ring in 18K rose gold with amazonite by Cartier, and waist belt by CHANEL.

LoL, Sandra

 Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.