Sandra‘s Closet

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle - Dior’s 60th anniversary couture show.

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
2 Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
3 Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra

At the moment I am in London where I met the lovely dynamic designer duo Kaufmanfranco at the net-à-porter offices yesterday. The New York label’s signature is dazzling evening wear that’s delicately embellished, plus modern day wear with an urban twist.

Isaac Franco to the left and Ken Kaufman to the right with me

Their sleek American style have landed them a stockpile of fans in every age group, spanning Taylor Swift to Jennifer Aniston. Calling themselves “the New Sensualists”, their designs are pure sophistication.

Taylor Swift and Jennifer Aniston in Kaufmanfranco (Photos: Getty Images)

It was lovely talking to the charismatic designer duo who answered openly my questions.

Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco met over 25 years ago. FIT-alumni Ken offered Isaac his first job who at that time had just finished his studies at Parsons School of Design. Since then, the two have been working constantly together for the likes of Valentino or Emanuel Ungaro, just to name a few. In 2004, they decided to launch their own label.

You two seem like yin and yang, same vision, different approach but complementing each other perfectly. Who designs which part of the collection?

Me, Isaac, I take care in general of the day wear styles and Ken is more into eveningwear.

How can I imagine your creative process?

Each of us designs and does sketches that we present each other. We then sometimes change what the other came up with which makes our designs better and special.

Whom would you like to dress? This could be also a person in history.

I think Madonna. But I have recently been asked whom I would like to invite for dinner and I thought Moses and Madonna would make a great combination at the dinner table.

Why don’t you do a runway show?

We are still a small label and prefer putting all the money into the clothes.

Last night, I got a wonderful preview of the Kaufmanfranco F/W 2012 collection that is full of sophisticated cocktail looks and all the fall coats and dresses you need. The colours are dark, from black to silver and rust. The materials are luxurious with lots of embellished pieces, Kaufmanfranco’s signature style. Enjoy the photos that I took for you:

If I have whetted your appetite for some Kaufmanfranco shopping, I would like to invite you to explore their S/S 2012 collection which is in stores now by clicking here.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Kaufmanfranco and © Sandra Bauknecht

There was a lot of movement in the fashion world during the last days, some very interesting announcements were made. The probably most unexpected one is Jean-Paul Gaultier`s departure from Hermès seven years after his jump-start of the house`s ready-to-wear line in 2003. If the reason was the  seven-year itch or the death of former president and chief executive, Jean-Louis Dumas a few weeks ago, we will never find out. Fact is that Christophe Lemaire, the designer behind the resurgence of Lacoste, is headed to Hermès and will present his first collection for F/W 2011 next spring.
Gaultier is reportedly leaving to focus on his own collection of which 45%  is still owned by Hermès. Like a real divorce… somebody is always keeping a stake.

The second news was not so surprising for me. After different speculations over the future of the Alexander McQueen brand, the creative director has officially been named. Sarah Burton, who had worked alongside McQueen for sixteen years and oversaw the completion of the F/W 2010 collection after the designer`s death in February will definitely keep his spiritual heritage.
The first McQueen underwear collection for men will launch in June. Might be a nice gift for your boyfriend or hubby.

Finally we have two more designers who landed themselves a job. First, former wunderkind Olivier Theyskens, who worked for Rochas and Nina Ricci, will design a capsule collection for Theory that will be released next spring.
And last but not least, Alessandro Dell`Acqua is making a return to fashion with a new collection dubbed N°21( his lucky number), after having lost trademark rights to his namesake line last year. Moreover he will take reigns at Brioni and design their womenswear.

Somebody else seems also ready for a fresh start: Giles Deacon has been confirmed as Emanuel Ungaro`s new creative director. After tumultous times and the Lindsay Lohan episode, the French fashion house will try to skyrocket right up to the point where Balmain and Balenciaga already are. One thing is certain, Ungaro has a fancy name and a lot of potential. Let`s see if Deacon along with the help of his stylist friend Katie Grand can come up with some zesty ideas.

LoL, Sandra