Sandra‘s Closet

Last night, the 11th Swiss Textiles Award was presented on the occasion of the first Fashion Days Zurich. The highly acclaimed fashion prize is worth € 100.000.- and talented designers like Jason Wu, Duro Olowu, Adam Kimmel, Juun.J, Damir Doma and Mary Katrantzou were fighting for it.
But there can be only one winner! And this year, it went to the only woman in the competition.
I was very happy to meet all of them and talk about their visions and designs.

The winner Greek-born and London-based Mary Katrantzou was my guess and also my favourite. So I was very happy for her to receive the trophy.

 

The 27-year-old is a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London.

 

She belongs to a new generation of designers, using digital prints to create extraordinary trompe d’oeil effects. To me, she is creating unique pieces that the fashion world has not seen before, a true innovation! This is her fourth collection. The first was about perfume bottles, the second about artisanal blown glass, the third was inspired by jewels and this time it is all about rooms. Her stunning S/S 2011 interior-inspired collection was already the talk of London Fashion Week

 

Mary, congratulations, you have absolutely deserved to win. How do you feel at the moment?

Ecstatic! I couldn’t believe it and cried backstage so I think that says it all.

What does the trophy mean to you?

The financial support is amazing at a stage when the business is growing and it’s so important to have that support. I can invest in my company now on a multilevel, taking it to a newer and international level and award the people who have believed in me. It’s a very prestigious prize, it’s a benchmark and a great honour. You just feel you have been acknowledged.

Does your Greek origin influence your designs?

Probably in the concept of the female figure, meaning to design very closely to the body.
Moreover, it is very difficult and time-consuming to place the prints correctly on the clothes in order to flatter the feminine silhouette.

Do you think that your designs are wearable?

Absolutely! I mean the commercial aspect is important, too. I want women to wear my designs instead of hanging them in a museum. You should feel comfortable.
I like to make objects wearable and desirable. It is just my signature look, I don’t want women to feel objectified.

Any hints concerning your next collection for F/W 2011?

It’s a progression of this one, it’s not as thematic and it’s slightly darker. The thing is with my collections,  if I say too much then it will give it away. Like with this collection if I had said ‘rooms’, I would have revealed too much.

How do you like Zurich?

It is my first time and I haven’t been able to properly enjoy it as I was so busy with this show. But yesterday we were very hungry and went to the lake where all these old buildings are located. It was really nice and I love Zurich.

What will you do next?

Going home to my boyfriend and I think drinks will be on the list. (Giggles.)

Where are you going to put your trophy?

Top front in my new studio that we are right in the middle of moving in.

That Mary had to beat off stiff competition from fellow designers can you see below.

Jason Wu was born in Taipeh and moved when he was a child to Vancouver. He studied to be a sculptor and went to Parsons School of Design. His first collection was launched in 2006.

 

His career kicked off when Michelle Obama supported the young talent by wearing a custom-designed one-shoulder, floor-length white chiffon gown, at the ball on the night of President Barack Obama’s inauguration. Later, she appeared on the cover of the US-Vogue once again in a Wu design, a magenta silk dress.

 

 

 

Today, Wu works in New York. His eye for details and colours is his strong point.
For S/S 2011 he cut out small petals and created beautiful embellishments.

Jason was very sweet and revealed some interesting facts:

My mum always supported me. She bought me a sewing machine at the age of 10 and paid a fashion student to teach me.
My beloved symbol, the owl, was inspired by my last name Wu because if you say it many times in a row, it sounds like it.

 

Born in Lagos and based in London, Duro Olowu went on a quite different career path.  He studied law in England, worked as a lawyer in Nigeria before switching to his first love, fashion. Drawing on the inspirations he found by the unexpected mix of fabrics, textures and draping techniques of the clothing worn by the women of his native land.

 

He launched his own label in London in October, 2004 which became an instant hit with his use of luxurious fabrics and ecclectic, clashing prints.
Last year, he opened his own boutique in London.

Michelle Obama has supported Duro’s carrer as well, as she has been seen many times in his vibrant styles.

 

For his S/S 2011 collection, Duro flipped easily back and forth between retro silhouettes and modern bright pop-like references, incorporationg the saturated colours of tribes in Papua New Guinea and the ever present influence of his Nigerian and Jamaican heritage.

I spoke briefly to him and was overwhelmed by his charming positive attitude. His aura reflects the joie de vivre that shows in his collections.

Being proud of his roots, he is a leading example of how you can life your dream and that everything is possible.

Damir Doma is a modern nomade. His collections are inspired by his own way of living.

 

He was born in Croatia and grew up in the southern part of Germany. Same like me, he studied fashion design at ESMOD (L’ Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode) in Munich and Berlin. He graduated in 2004 with magna cum laude for the best collection and worked after that in Antwerp for Raf Simons whom he sees as one of the most inspiring designers.

In 2006 he started his label with menswear, followed this year by his first collection for women. He is widely considered the most improtant German fashion designer of his generation.

 

Damir explained:

I don’t like the body to adapt to the clothes, it should be vice-versa. I love soft materials and flowing volume. I grew up in my mother’s atelier and was playing with fabric starting in my early childhood. That might be the reason why fabrics play such an important role for me.

 

Adam Kimmel stands for the American way of life, uniting the worker and the artist. As he states himself; it’s all about giving the industrial style profile by infusing relaxed elegance.

 

He studied architecture, completed then later an apprenticeship with an Italian samples manufacturer before launching his debut label in 2002.

The New Yorker designer received standing ovations for the presentation of his S/S 2011 collection last night. The usually more quiet Swiss audience cheered from the first moment when the sounds of Snoop Dogg echoed in the hall.

The Snoop looky-likeys paraded down the aisle in a perfect mixture of hip-hop style elements produced in the finest Italian cashmere. I am sure Snoop would love it.

 

Later at the after party at Moods, Adam told me more:

I saw the Wall Street Journal including something about Snoop Dogg and got immediately inspired to create this collection.

As we could not bring the models to Switzerland, we did a fun street casting in Zurich before to find the best bad boys.

 

The final show last night was the one of last year’s Swiss Textiles Award 2009 winner Alexander Wang.
Stay tuned as I did a fantastic detailed interview with him which will soon be published here.

LoL, Sandra

Yesterday I was supposed to be in London for the launch of Stella McCartney Kids collection and to preview the two new lines High Jewellery sets by Boucheron and Private Wardrobe by Stella McCartney which is a new service for VIP- customers to receive private appointments, personal styling, exclusive events, bespoke tailoring, previews and more.
I am so happy for my card, it is like the centurion for fashionistas.

Unfortunately, I had to cancel last minute as a very excited interview came up in Zurich. You will soon know to whom I was able to talk to.

Nevertheless, I still have all the photos for you. Stella’s kids collection includes basic comfortable pieces as well as shrunken versions of the mainline.

 

Her fun, modern fashion for boys and girls, aged newborn to 12 years, is now available in stores and online at StellaMcCartneyKids.com with shipping in over 200 countries. It is truly worth having a look at the website. There will interactive functions for both parents and kids, such as the “playground“.

To coincidence the launch, an iPhone app can be downloaded at iTunes with special features like a mechanical drawing game and the ability to shop.

The London store has also built a very special interactive corner for kids of all ages making shopping a real fun adventure.

Her new fine jewellery line is inspired by „romance, intimacy and secrets“.
The capsule collection includes five dainty pieces in timeless yellow gold (see photos below) that compliment every outfit perfectly. Prices range from £645.-.

I love the kissing pendant… Santa, do you hear me?

LoL, Sandra

 

 

Today, I was lucky to attend the Lanvin for H&M press preview. The line created by Alber Elbaz is breathtaking. Beautiful materials, well-tailored cuts, it seemed to me almost like a best of Lanvin collection, a playful take on his favourite pieces.

Please find herewith some impressions from the lookbook and more pictures of the ad campaign plus my personal photos that I took today in the showroom. They show the beauty of the clothes and accessories perfectly. I have also included the complete price list with all upcoming items, in Swiss Francs.

“What does luxury mean today? Can luxury be exclusive and democratic at the same time? How can we translate the essence 
of luxury to a wider audience? The world around us is changing rapidly and I find myself asking these questions more and more. 
Designer’s work is usually tailored to a very small group of people, but the collection for H&M was about trying to translate the dream 
of luxury to the masses. It was almost like going back to school for me.” Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin. Well done, Mr Elbaz!

Ladies, I will see you on November 23, 2010 because I want Lanvin…not flowers!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of H&M
Lookbook, Photographer: Stéphane Gallois, Models: Irina Lazareanu and Vincent Olivieri
Campaign, Photographer: David Sims, Models: Natasha Poly, Hannelore Knuts, Tati Cotliar, Simon Nessman, Jane Schmitt and Garance Dumont

As you already know if there is one piece fashion is gushing over this F/W 2010, it is the camel coat. Being a true classic and always in style, this season seems to be the perfect time to get one. Many designers showed their own unique take on it. Whether it is made from genuine camel hair or not, it is an investment always worth it.

In case you have not decided yet, please find above a summary of the best pieces in stores at the moment. There is something for every taste and budget.

I decided to go for the long caramel camel-wool wrap coat by Chloé. It is a very versatile piece. Cinched at the waist with the skinny tan belt or thrown over loose, the overall impact is pure sophistication.

I love to wear it tone on tone with my chunky wool cardigan dress by Stella McCartney and my suede Gucci overknee boots for an instant sensual upgrade. The Céline box bag adds the perfect minimalistic chic.

The probably most authentic choice is the iconic and much-copied Max Mara cashmere blend overcoat that launched in 1981. It has been the company’s bestseller since nearly thirty years. What the trench is to Burberry, the classic camel coat is to Max Mara, specifically the model with the so-called style number “101801”.

Therefore, it is no wonder that the Italian brand has recently used the wool and cashmere icon to launch its e-commerce business. The double-breasted outerwear piece has an 42 inch length and kimono sleeves that can be rolled up. Its proportions make it an ideal fit for all women. It can be personalized with a special lining and a name or monogram on the inside label.
Available for purchase exclusively at maxmara.com.

LoL, Sandra

To celebrate online shopping, there is going to be tonight (starting at 5pm London time) the first edition of Vogue Fashion’s Night In. Many retailers are joining in the fun with special gifts, promotions and more.
For a detailed list, please click here.

Enjoy shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Isabel and Ruben Toledo are what you would call a power couple, two highly talented individuals working in synergy. It is a marriage of art and fashion since 1984.

Cuban-born Isabel is a renowned fashion designer. Her creations are often seen on the First Lady Michelle Obama. Available for example at couturelab.

Ruben paints, sculpts, illustrates and draws. His surreal view of life brings humor and unconventionality to his fashion illustrations that have appeared in magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, Paper, Visionaire and the New York Times. His work has adorned many book covers and his sketches have been an integral part of the Louis Vuitton’s city guides for years.

The French luxury goods maker has just released a unique limited collector’s edition box of 100 postcards adorned with Toledo’s vibrant illustrations capturing the essence of various cities. A wonderful commemoration of an outstanding artist and an ideal gift for the lover of art and fashion. Available at Louis Vuitton stores or at Colette for €80.- ($115.-).

LoL, Sandra

Not so in the mood for dressing up for Halloween?! Here is the perfect look for a fashionista glam witch. There is no need to wear a polyester costume!

Try a sharp leather bustier dress and add some orange-black accessoires like those gorgeous leopard pumps and clutch by Roger Vivier. Some fun earrings like the spider studs by Betsey Johnson, long leather gloves and a half-mask give you the right amount of Halloween touch without feeling too disguised. Play with your make-up and opt for smokey eyes and a black lipgloss. This is partying in style! And you could wear those pieces all year around!

Do not forget to carve your pumpkins with a little CC or LV logo to set the right fashion statement for your decoration!

Happy Halloween!

LoL, Sandra

Yesterday, Zurich’s best shoe shop Lovers Lane hosted a trunk show to present the gorgeous creations of Nicholas Kirkwood. The British designer is the biggest name in shoes today, known for his craftsmanship and innovative designs, that are instantly recognisable. He also has a lot of celeb fans, among them Sarah Jessica Parker who wore his extravagant designs all the way through the Sex and the City 2 promotions.
The famed footman came extra to the Swiss city for the event last night and I was very lucky to do an extensive interview with him before he left for New York for a meeting with Anna Wintour this morning.

 

You were born in Germany. Do you speak any German?

No, I was just born there because my Dad was living in Münster at that time.

Being here in Zurich today to present your amazing creations, do you have a vision of the typical Swiss woman?

I came to Switzerland quite a lot when I was younger for my ski holidays. We were always staying at the same hotel that was run by lady who was very firm, and very strict, you could never do something wrong.  When we were running around, she would say no-no.

So tonight I am looking forward to meeting another type of Swiss ladies and see how my customers here look like.

Which woman do you have in mind when creating your shoes in general?

One season is more feminine, the other more angular. It is quite open. Therefore I like to do events like tonight. Seeing the shops I sell to and  meeting the women’s wishes. Every market is different. You have to start somewhere.

You logded with the late Isabella Blow?  Has her eccentric style influenced your work?

She was very encouraging. Any new idea, any of her thoughts would make a good idea. And of course, knowing her was amazing, her inspiration and unique character.

Is there a celeb woman that you would love to dress in your shoes that does not wear them yet?

A very interesting question. Let me think. If I was walking in the streets and my cell phone would be ringing and somebody would be asking me for shoes, who would shock me the most? Mmh, Madonna, no… Now I know. Imelda Marcos! I just want her to have my shoes even if she probably can’t wear them anymore.

Lovers Lane sells other brands as well. Which one do you like the best?

I love very much what Charlotte Olympia does. A wonderful girl, very beautiful. I think we sometimes have the same customer, it is a very close but friendly competition.

I know that you are not a big fan of kitten heels. So how did you like this season’s shoe trend? Will we see one day a Kirkwood kitten heel?

I kind of did a kitten heel, but it was very strange looking. There is more a hype, than a reality to it. A lot of people want it to be a trend, are pushing it to be a trend.
The shoes might be not as high as they were in the last few seasons and I might be completely wrong but I just do not see this happen.

You have a signature look that is instantly recognisable . I truly admire that, especially with all the different collaborations you do, like for example Rodarte, Erdem, Peter Pilotto. Now, you are the new creative director for Pollini. You seem to be an unlikely fit for the traditional house. Do you have a carte blanche? How much freedom do you get in creating for other designers?

Pollini is a big challenge and I like it. I have a lot of work and I do not sleep much.

The best collaborations come out of working together. I’d hate it to be just told „do what you want“. The other party tries to bring the most into it. So the final product is the result of both rather than being too heavily weighted on one side or the other.

How did the pop-up e-commerce shop go? (The runway shoes he created for Peter Pilotto and Erdem were available for just a few days during London Fashion week.)
Would you do it again?

I think we will do it again. It was a great experiment.
In some ways it is the future. Probably sad to say but that is the way things are going to go and we like to keep ahead of the game. Burberry did it with clothes. I might be wrong, but with shoes we were the first.
Fashion is so quick. Something can seem old before it even hits the shops.

Will there be a Nicholas Kirkwood online shop soon? Do you dream of your own stores?

Yes, but we are not there yet.

In 2009, you created jelwery in collaboration with Swarovski? Will we see more Kirkwood in the future? For example handbags, menswear and more?

Men’s shoes, handbags, jewlery and sunglasses, yes! Soon…

Do you like things to be matchy-matchy? Like matching your bag to your shoes?

No, hate it. Similiar colour that is o.k..

Experimenting with heel shapes, negative spaces and shoe shapes might be pretty expensive. Do you have some base models you always start working with?

I try to always do something new. As soon as I have finished the collection, I start over again. I re-start and also keep something. Partly it is mostly somewhere close of what I have just done.  Fashion is too quick to always change.

I read once that you do not like fastenings and excess, do you still agree with that? Has your focus changed or developed during the last years?

No, it is not that I do not like it. There is sometimes a need to have a buckle and sometimes I try to think of other solutions than a buckle. But it is also nice to have those elements in there. When you are at a young stage, you start out on one tune.

Now, I am trying to expand the range, become more obedient to different types of customers, to become more of a shoe brand not just a niche for a small community.
Those details will become part of the collection more and more. There will always be my signature in it, but probably just not so in your face.

Is there a creation that you find horrible today?

Oh yes, especially a shoe that comes out crooked. I normally try to hide and burn it without anybody seeing the disaster.

Did you ever see a woman wearing your shoes and you did not like what you saw?

Sometimes, when I see somebody wearing my shoes completely beaten up. But on the other way, it is a sign that she very much loved them.

I hate it if they are wearing the wrong size and the toes are hanging out.

Have a you ever made a shoe in which it was impossible to stand or walk?

Yes, especially for photo shoots. You could stand in them for 10 seconds and that was it.

The Alice in Wonderland shoes that I made for Printemps in Paris, you could probably not walk in them because of the little hanging porcelaine cups.

Do you have a favourite of your designs?

In some ways I am never satiesfied with anything. Sometimes I am very happy with the way things come out. But once the shoe is made, I am over it. I have seen the process for so long, it gets kind of boring after a while.

It is like recording an album. You are listening to the same thing for such a long time, that by the time it is finished, you can’t stand it.

Your shoes melt contemporary art and fashion? Best example is the upcoming Keith Haring collection. Do you see yourself as an artist?

No, not at all. I am more of a product designer. I studied fine arts at St. Martins. I am a big fan of art. It is a completely other thing. You do not replace it so easily like a piece of fashion. It has more of a longevity to it. There are similiarities to it like the way  people get excited.

I feel a little like the art world looks kind of down on the fashion world, a little bit of a high brow.

Could you imagine to do a collaboration with H&M? Or to create a more budget-friendly second line?

Not yet. I have been approached by similiar kind of things. I always like to promote the quality manufacturing and made in Italy. That is what I sort of believe in. It is different with the ready-to-wear. Regarding footwear, you will really notice a cheap pair of shoes . I don’t want to say that I will never do it. (Laughs…) I will wait until I can make a hell out of money out of it for a one-time-thing. And make a big party after.

I mean, there are a lot of people out there, not everything has to be accessible to everybody.

I don’t say that I will never,  there is just no need at the moment unless I will be forced by a powerful editor who says you have to.

Like the one you are seeing tomorrow (Anna Wintour)?

Laughs again. No, not her.

I hope that you have liked the interview. I had a blast talking to Nicholas as he is such a sweet guy. The party at Lovers Lane was really great. I took some photos for you to get an impression.

And gentlemen, sometimes it is worth going shoe-shopping with your wifes or girlfriends. There might be a little treat for you, too.

LoL, Sandra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since May 2007, Kate Moss had designed thirteen times in a row for Topshop. But all good things come to an end and so her fourteenth collection for the fast-fashion chain will be her last and probably her best. The amazing pieces with Kate’s so famous bohemian chic plus a vintage-inspired jewelry range will go on sale November 2nd.

In honour of the big success, there will be also the “Kate Iconic“, a capsule collection of the ten most popular designs of the last years, like the must-have one-shoulder dress above.

I am in love with the supermodel’s style and you?

LoL, Sandra

Last week, I went to the Louis Vuitton Christmas collection press preview that took place in the beautiful Schloss Sihlberg in Zurich.
The gorgeous presentation with vintage toys from the Zurich toy museum (Züricher Spielzeugmuseum) put me directly into the gift giving mood. It is true, Holiday 2010 is almost upon us, so let’s better get organised.

All I want for Christmas…

LoL, Sandra