Sandra‘s Closet

A true demonstration of the craftsmanship and expertise of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the two new Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon «Poinçon de Genève» complete the colour palette of this exceptionally transparent family of watches.

This year, the watches, crafted from single blocks of synthetic sapphire, will come in fluorescent green or yellow cases. These transparent creations are true feats of technical and artistic know-how, the first of their kind in the history of watchmaking to bear Geneva Seal. They herald a new era, revealing all the secrets of their skilfully openwork Manufacture movement driven by a flying tourbillon.

There is great potential in using cases cut from a block of coloured synthetic sapphire. This pure and precious mineral is obtained by heating aluminium oxide at temperatures of around 2000° Celsius. Ever since the early 20th century, when this manufacturing process was invented by French chemist Auguste Victor Louis Verneuil (1856-1913), the watch industry has been using it to produce rubies for mechanical movements. By dint of progress in its development during the 1980s, the industry succeeded in producing the first sapphire crystals for sports watches and, a decade later, the first complete cases.

Virtually unalterable like pure gold or platinum, with a hardness only surpassed by diamonds, synthetic sapphire is one of those precious materials over which time has no control. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton immediately grasped its potential, using it to protect the LV90 calibre from external stresses. It provides an impenetrable barrier to all but the eye and ensures that the exceptional openwork movement, regulated by a flying tourbillon, will have a virtually unlimited life span, provided that it receives regular care.

The Manufacture’s engineers have been experts in its application ever since the launch of the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon «Poinçon de Genève» watches in clear, blue and pink sapphire. This year, these artists, a bit of alchemists, have found the right formulas and the purest metal oxides in secretly guarded proportions.
They have created two new exceptional pieces with daringly translucent shades, so intense that they give the impression of being fluorescent. The first features an electric yellow sapphire case and the second comes in warm green accents.

To obtain a case middle, a case-back and a bridge bearing the LV logo in a strictly identical colour for each watch, a cylinder, 50 mm in diameter and 150 mm long, had to be extracted from the centre of a block of mass-tinted sapphire from Japan weighing nearly 200 kg. Each component is therefore cut from this sapphire crystal bar using diamond tools to obtain the pieces final dimensions. All the elements are then delicately polished to reveal their transparency and the richness of the two meticulously selected colours.

The entire synthetic sapphire case of each watch requires 420 hours of complex operations on digitally controlled machines working with diamond tools. The 10 mm thick monobloc part alone, comprising the case middle, the bezel and the glass, requires 100 hours of milling and 150 hours of polishing. The case back needs 50 hours of machining and 60 hours of hand and machine finishing to become fully transparent and ready for assembly. Finally, the transparent bridge bearing the LV logo takes 20 hours of cutting and 40 hours of manual finishing to let the light pass through flawlessly.

Constant and meticulous attention is given to every detail throughout the entire manufacturing process. The 12 letters forming LOUIS VUITTON are engraved on the outer side of the concave case middle of the Tambour Moon, which appeared in 2017. Like the indexes on the bezel flange, whose design gives the timepiece a very open face, they are delicately lacquered in white for the green sapphire version, and black for the yellow sapphire model. The two horns, in black PVD-treated titanium, are attached by screws. Finally, to protect the delicate movement from external stresses, this 42.5 mm case with a thickness of 9.9 mm is guaranteed water- resistant up to 30 metres. This is achieved via a transparent gasket positioned between the case middle and the screw-down case back.

Everything on this timepiece has been carefully considered, right down to the appearance of the hands, which are light and hollowed out, floating over the circles from which they seem to spring. Like the previous versions of the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire, these two spectacularly light and transparent watches are, to date, the only models in the world to have a sapphire case and bear the Geneva Seal. Their sheer complexity means they are produced in very limited series every year.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

This week, I was invited by BVLGARI to celebrate the history and evolution of the Maison’s icon, Serpenti at Zurich’s Mascotte Club. Continually changing its skin through the creativity and vision of the master Roman jeweler, Serpenti has unfolded its transformative nature over the past 75 years. Always ready to take a hypnotic new form, the icon forever remains an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis.

Introduced in 1948 as jewelry-watches to be wrapped around the wrist, Serpenti creations made their debut with a supple, stylized body crafted with the iconic Tubogas technique. In the ’50s, the Bulgari serpent began to embrace a more realistic style, an evolution that culminated in the ’60s when its distinct turned into a canvas for creative experimentation sporting gemstones and colored enamels. Moving from one mesmerizing form to the next, Serpenti has offered stunning interpretations of its hexagonal scale motif, various levels of preciousness and unique combinations of exquisite gems, captivating design and creative craftsmanship.

Photo top right: Kristina Bazan and Photo bottom right: Christa Rigozzi

From left to right: Alex Lambrechts, Nicole Boghossian, Zoë Pastelle, my humble self, Kevin Lütolf and Jaz Brunner.

In the last 75 years, women have affirmed the right to be independent, cultivate their talents, pursue their dreams and live a life that aligns with their desires. From the red carpet to the office, Serpenti has been their faithful ally, evolving side by side with confident women proud to reveal their magnetic charm.

With Monica Brannetti who had flown in for the night from Rome.

We started the evening with a very interesting conversation between Christa Rigozzi, who lead through the evening, and Monica Brannetti from the Bvlgari Heritage Team about the amazing stories that have been told in the past decades through Serpenti jewelry and watch pieces.

The amazing Dora Live Band performed on stage and made sure that nobody stood still in the room. The final culmination of the night was the big birthday cake, followed by the sounds of DJ Tanja La Croix.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / David Biedert Photography, Bvlgari, Jaz Brunner
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

The skeleton calibres manufactured by Roger Dubuis in Geneva are the essence of the expressive singularity of the Excalibur collection. Complying with one of the most respected certifications of Haute Horlogerie, the Poinçon de Genève, the Excalibur watches are designed like contemporary works of art. Every single component being finished by hand, the watches are symbols of passion. The work of hyper-skilled craftsmen is at the forefront of each watch with a direct view on the creative mechanics making these pieces more alive than ever.

Roger Dubuis’s fully integrated Manufacture is the birthplace of ground-breaking innovations, among them the uniquely shaped spinels named Spin-Stones™. Graded from red to blue and coated with SuperLumiNova, the stunning gems always shine in colour – by day, night, or under UV light-, and give birth to the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-stone™ Monobalencier edition, presented at Watches & Wonders , while taking colourful luminescence to new heights.

EON GOLD 18K, Self-winding, 42mm
Available for $162.000, limited to 28 pieces.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Roger Dubuis
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Presented at Watches & Wonders, these three strikingly contemporary PIAGET watches re-interpret the cuff watches of the 1960s-70s that became a hallmark of the Maison’s audacity and pioneering fashion-focused creativity. The organic design, innovative and unexpected, references the free-form, hyper-naturalism of 1960s and ‘70s jewelry, with the signature oval dial half-hidden by the gold work of the bracelet that appears to grow over the case and ornamental dial, emphasizing the naturalistic theme.

Each cuff is hand-engraved with different patterns and textures, highlighting Piaget’s expertise in the art of engraving and dedication to Métiers d’Or. The different styles of engraving demonstrate the combination of dexterity and artistic sensibility mastered by each individual artisan.

The gold is incised, by hand, one line at a time, using the sharp tip of a burin, the lines varying in depth, width and direction to obtain the desired effect. Gold shavings are gently blown away from the surface by the goldsmith after each gesture. No two patterns of engraved gold are the same.

The golden bracelet is streaked with diamonds emphasizing the linear fluidity of the engraving, and inset with a diamond-framed case and dial of white opal, its scintillating rainbow colors as if moving with the ebb and flow of the goldwork.

The rugged, bark-like texture of the second cuff contrasts with the classical oval dial of exquisite, intense, velvety Sleeping Beauty turquoise, framed by sapphires in color gradation.

The third cuff in white gold evokes a frosty landscape, patterned with delicate ice crystals that creep over a dramatic dial of black opal, flashing with green and blue lights, echoed in the frame of graduated emeralds.

I have always been a huge fan of cuff watches and find these models incredibly beautiful.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Piaget
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Today, I am writing to share some exciting news about YVY, the Swiss fashion brand that has been making waves in the fashion industry for its innovative designs that cross the boundaries between object, accessory, and clothing.

Yvonne Reichmuth founder and creative director of YVY.

The brand’s biggest ARCHIVE SALE will take place from the 14th to the 16th of April at their studio and online from the 17th to the 20th. The studio’s address is Quellenstrasse 27 in Zurich with opening hours on Friday 14th of April from 10am to 8pm and during the weekend from 11am to 5pm.

The cuban-born American-raised superstar Camila Cabello wore the YVY Spine Harness for her look on The Voice USA recently.

YVY has gained a lot of attention and love from celebrities worldwide. The ARCHIVE SALE features some of the iconic pieces worn by Lady Gaga, Ciara, and Irina Shayk, making it an exciting chance for fans to own a piece of fashion history! Moreover, YVY will have samples and prototypes of some of their bestsellers.

Matthias Breschan, CEO of Longines, Yvonne Reichmuth and Kate Winslet.

Last year, Swiss watchmaking brand Longines entrusted YVY with a new design for the famous rectangular watch of Longine’s DolceVita collection, resulting in four sophisticated timepieces that were revealed in Paris in the presence of Kate Winslet.

Madonna in 2020 in a one-of-a-kind top from YVY’s BRUT collection, handmade in the Zurich atelier with Italian lambskin and delicate Swarovski crystals. 

The aim for YVY’s ARCHIVE SALE is to provide an unparalleled opportunity for the Swiss audience to own exclusive pieces from the collection Swiss made. YVY believes that each piece carries a unique story, and is thrilled to share it with their valued customers.

Lday Gaga herself starred in her Haus Laboratories’s makeup line’s campaign in a top by YVY to underline the empowering effect of a bold eyeliner.

Take advantage of this opportunity to get your dream leather look and follow YVY on Instagram @yvyleather for a first look at the archive pieces. Get exclusive access to iconic pieces worn by celebrities for fashion magazines and press events, as well as one-of-a-kind designs and samples from some of their must-haves at up to 80% off.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © YVY
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

There is no doubt that Patek Philippe watches are considered an investment. Founded in Geneva in 1839, the brand’s style and craftsmanship make it stand out from competitors, creating highly collectable watches. Being an independent manufacture, the House has its own research and development department and creates and engineers all movements and external components in its own workshops.

One new ladies’ model, presented at Watches & Wonders has caught my eye and not only because I have a thing for colorful watches. The Manufacture is enriching its range of elegant watches for ladies with a new rose gold version decked out in purple – an original and refined color perfectly matching the warm nuances of the precious metal. Meet the new purple Ladies’ Calatrava – Ref. 4997/200R-001.

The bezel set with 76 round internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (0.55 ct), highlights the dial with its embossed radiating pattern and the entirely polished case. The presence of ultra-thin self-winding 240 caliber with an offcenter 22K gold mini-rotor makes it possible to offer a very slim case (7.4mm).

The dial base embossed with a concentric waves pattern is coated with more than fifty successive layers of translucent lacquer creating a fascinating depth effect. The shade of the dial is echoed by the purple calfskin strap with satinated finish and rose gold prong buckle.

Available – if your are lucky – for CHF 32.500.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Patek Philippe
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

With these versions of the Day-Date 36, Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models. By displaying a new emotion each day, the watch brings an element of spontaneity into the wearers’ daily life and allows them to invest the reading of time with their changing mood. Rolex unveils three new variants of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, full of joy and energy.

Crafted from 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, these watches have adopted an original face. Rather than showing the day of the week, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays an inspirational keyword in English – ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. The window at 3 o’clock reveals daily one of 31 exclusive emojis in place of the date.

Entirely created using champlevé enamelling, the dial is striking for the depth and intensity of its gleaming colours and decoration. The motif is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial, which is turquoise blue on the 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct white gold versions, and orange on the watch in 18 ct Everose gold.

The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with calibre 3255, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling them to display a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji each day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Interesting to know is that at its launch in 1956, the Day-Date was a major innovation: it was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt out in full in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock on the dial – a technical feat at the time.

Worn by many of the world’s political figures, directors and visionaries, the Day-Date is instantly recognizable, in particular thanks to its emblematic President bracelet, whose evocative name, together with the eminent figures who have worn it, ensured the Day-Date became known as the ‘presidents’ watch’.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: ©Rolex/JVA Studios and ©Rolex/Ulysse Frechelin
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Watches in the Oyster Perpetual range are direct descendants of the original Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, on which Rolex has built its reputation since 1926. These timepieces benefit from all the fundamental features of the Oyster Perpetual collection – chronometric precision, a waterproof Oyster case, and self-winding of the movement via a Perpetual rotor.

Alive with colour, vitality and positivity, the new dials – presented at Watches & Wonders – of the Oyster Perpetual in 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm are dotted with many-coloured bubbles that joyfully reunite the five hues introduced to the range in 2020. Rolex brings in a new dial decoration for its Oyster Perpetual range, recognized for its pure lines and universal elegance.

Named «Celebration», this brand-new motif is available for the Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41. Composed of differently sized bubbles fringed with black, it encapsulates the vivid colours of the lacquered dials introduced in 2020: candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green.

The Oyster Perpetual 31 is equipped with calibre 2232, while the Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 are both fitted with calibre 3230. These two movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology provide essential functions – hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, these Oyster Perpetual models carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist. This status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: ©Rolex/JVA Studios and ©Rolex/Ulysse Frechelin
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Since clocks were first miniaturised to be carried or worn as watches, women have played a pivotal role in determining the aesthetic of time and the ways in which it is worn. Thanks to the pioneering spirit of its founder, LeCoultre & Cie recognised the tremendous aesthetic and technical potential of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels and accessories and, at an early stage in La Grande Maison’s history, began creating watches for women as well as men. Blending the arts of horology and jewellery, the Maison has continued to marry technical sophistication, creative design and aesthetic beauty in a process of constant evolution.

Underlining this commitment to feminine expressions of fine watchmaking, the Reverso – although originally conceived for the gentleman polo player – began to appear in feminine form very soon after its launch in 1931. Among the many variations were models that could be worn on a cordonnet bracelet or transformed into brooches, handbag clips or pendants. In 2023, presented at Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes this creative legacy to a new level, presenting a new interpretation of the Reverso in the form of a magnificent piece of High Jewellery – the Reverso Secret Necklace, which transforms the design icon into a graceful and exquisitely feminine sautoir, or long necklace.

The cordonnet, the original black textile bracelet (literal translation: fine or small cord) seen on Reverso models of the 1930s has been reimagined as a supple chain of intricate diamond-set links and polished onyx beads, from which a richly gem-set Reverso is suspended. Two pendants of polished onyx charms add a refined flourish to this elegant new way of wearing the time.

Among High Jewellery watches there is a long history of secret watches – watches with a gem-set cover hiding the dial until the wearer wishes to read the time. The swivelling case of the Reverso is a twist on this idea, concealing the time when turned over. Although initially designed for purely practical reasons, the blank metal flip side of the case offers almost limitless potential for decoration with gem-setting, enamelling or engraving.

Worn with the case back turned to the front, the Reverso Secret Necklace is a beautiful Art Deco-inspired jewel that conceals its secret power of time-telling until the wearer chooses to reveal it; worn with the front dial showing, it is an exquisite timepiece that hides its reverse side like an enchanting, personal pleasure. It is notable that while the dial appears to observers to be upside-down, it is set that way so that the wearer can read the time naturally as she lifts the watch to her line of sight.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the very few watchmaking Maisons to have its own Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts) atelier, bringing multiple craft skills together in a specialised workshop within its Manufacture.

Recalling the Art Deco origins of the Reverso, the reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern of geometric repeats, contrasting with the warm tone of the metal. Vertical rows of grain-set diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. Contrasting with the richness of black onyx and pink gold, the centre of the dial is set with white diamonds, as are the signature brackets that define each corner of the dial. With over 3,000 diamonds, the gem-setting on the Reverso Secret Necklace requires over 300 hours of meticulous work for our Métiers Rares® atelier artisans.

Concealed within the case, the movement that powers the Reverso Secret Necklace is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to mechanical excellence. Developed and produced entirely in house and comprising 93 parts, the manually-wound Calibre 846 was created specifically for the Reverso and, in keeping with the Manufacture’s philosophy of product integrity, is shaped to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

The Reverso Secret Necklace is an exquisite creation that represents a rare and noble marriage of high jewellery, rare handcrafts and fine watchmaking.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Jaeger-LeCoultre
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Next week, the 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders, the famous watch fair, will be taking place in Geneva. From March 27 to April 2, 2023, the 48 exhibiting Maisons will present their watch novelties and iconic models.

Arriving at last year’s fair.

While the first days will be dedicated to professionals, great news is that the Salon will open its doors to the public for the first time on Saturday 1 and Sunday 2 April, 2023. On top of that, the Salon will also take over the streets of Geneva with a special «In the City» program open to all to celebrate watchmaking together.

My favorite booth last year: Van Cleef & Arpels

More than just a trade show, Watches and Wonders Geneva is a passionate experience to be enjoyed in person. It is also a place where you can listen to and learn from the professionals. An extensive program has been specially designed for the weekend with conferences, guided tours and exhibitions. Connoisseurs, enthusiasts and those who are simply curious will be able to discover the marvels of the 48 exhibiting Maisons, from the greatest historical watchmakers to independent workshops and artisans. From exceptional pieces and new collections to skilled craftsmanship, there will be something to satisfy every curious mind.

At the Piaget booth in 2022.

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

TICKETS are CHF 70 per person and can be obtained through the ONLINE TICKETING at watchesandwonders.com.
Here you will also find more information about the weekend.

In parallel, for the first time, Watches and Wonders will also be present in the heart of its host city. This festival of watchmaking, called «In the City», will be free and open to everyone. Visitors can therefore wander freely through the Rues Basses of the city center and spot the WandW display columns. This will be the sign that the boutiques have surprises in store: including historical pieces, demonstration workshops, a chance to chat with the watchmakers, a preview of new pieces, etc. To add spice to the experience, an interactive watch rally has been organized especially for the occasion. Using the QR codes scattered along a route, the public will be able to discover the participating boutiques and emblematic sites.

When the sun goes down, «In the City» will continue to beat in the heart of Geneva: on March 30, all the participating boutiques will stay open until 9pm, while a special program has been created for this evening of festivities. Artists, dancers and musicians will take over five stages along the streets, beginning at 5pm. At the Pont de la Machine, a conference on «Geneva, Switzerland and Watchmaking» will be open to all who register. A collection of food trucks will be stationed at the city’s main crossroads with one objective: get ready for a free concert from the celebrated DJ/Producer The Avener at Quai du Général Guisan, at 8pm.

DJ/Producer The Avener

The heart of Geneva will be beating to the rhythm of watch movements from March 27 to April 2, 2023. The wonder of watchmaking is within everyone’s reach!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Watches & Wonders, © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!