Sandra‘s Closet

Ladies, are you ready for a high-watchmaking novelty. Meet the other side of sweetness as Louis Vuitton demonstrates its advanced mastery in horological automata with a new feminine timepiece.
Introducing the first in-house self-winding automaton movement, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is a distillation of high-watchmaking savoir-faire, enacted by Louis Vuitton’s specialist movement workshop La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. Under the candy-bright hues and alluring textures of an engraved grand feu enamel dial, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata bears a movement of formidable ingenuity and pin-sharp precision. The aesthetic of Louis Vuitton’s latest creation hides a piercing intellect, reminding us that nulla rosa sine spini; there is no rose without its thorn.

A Mechanism In Full Bloom
High watchmaking at Louis Vuitton flowered at the beginning of the 21st century, leading up to the creation of a small handful of bespoke automaton timepieces
for special clients. In 2021, the Maison communicated about this side of the brand’s in-house watchmaking expertise for the first time. Louis Vuitton’s next stride in the realm of automaton timepieces continues to explore the theme of blended passion and savoir-faire.

The motif of a rose and its entwined thorny vines has been taken further than the Maison initially broached in the enamel-dial Escale Spin Time Only Watch (2019). Motion and dynamism define the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, but even more provocative is the revelation that lies beneath the lush petals and glossy heart of its dial, the first in-house enamel dial from Louis Vuitton. At the push of a button at the 8 o’clock position, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata blooms under the touch of its wearer, in a lush profusion of dial animations.

Beware Of Thorns
Time can be dangerous, according to the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, where the hours and minutes are told by thorn-armoured hands on a subdial encircled by inward-facing briars. Those who take time for granted, or let their attention wander, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata seems to say, may soon find themselves in a prickly situation. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides the rhythmic pulse of the watch, marking out the seconds over the course of its one- minute rotation.
At 9 o’clock, a flaming heart, symbol of piety, is emblazoned with the word «SWEET» and crowned with a golden circlet of Louis Vuitton Monogram flowers. A hidden power throbs within the heart, revealed when the pusher at 8 o’clock, set with adamantine gems, is actuated.

Around the hours-and-minutes subdial, an external halo of thorns emerges and extends radially outwards. The enamel roses (one at 12 o’clock and another
at 4 o’clock) are not the demure botanicals they first appeared to be; they have found new vitality, with spinning Monogram flowers at their centers, diamond pistils firing rays of refracted light. The blazing heart roars to life, its flames dancing as if fanned by an invisible gale. The heart cracks open, a jagged fissure revealing that the soothing legend engraved on the heart now comes with a bold caveat: «SWEET BUT FIERCE».

A World Of Mechanical Expression
If knowledge is power, then knowledge (or know-how) that only you have becomes the most powerful thing of all. The unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in innovative horological automata is expressed in one of the most mechanically impressive creations of the Maison to date: the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata. Five separate dial elements form the automaton array of the watch, leaping simultaneously into action when the pusher at 8 o’clock is actuated. The radially extruding thorns surrounding the outer circumference of the hours-and- minutes subdial. The two Monogram flowers at the center of the enamel roses at 4 and 12 o’clock rotate simultaneously. One starts its course clockwise while the other moves in the opposite direction. After a short pause, the two flowers perform the opposite dance. The articulated heart that cracks open to reveal the full message «SWEET BUT FIERCE». Lastly, the gold tongues of fire at the top of the heart that undulate in simulation of real flames.

This unprecedented display of horological virtuosity is the result of three years of research and development within Louis Vuitton’s high-watchmaking atelier. Subtle signs in the movement design and finish indicate that the calibre LFT 325 has been constructed expressly for the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata — a dedicated movement being a time-honoured indication of horological prestige. The micro-blasted movement bridges are decorated with thorny rose stems in pink-gold, sinuously embracing the exposed wheels visible through openworked sections. The 18K pink-gold rotor is also engraved and openworked with Monogram Flowers, as is the automaton regulator bridge at 12 o’clock. The history of the dial continues, sculpting the shapes of the movement. The dance
of colors and the seductive play of textures continue, requiring long hours of research and development to achieve the softness of the gray contrasting with the brilliance of the pink gold. The search for colors, the work on materials and the attention to detail testify to the precision and extreme meticulousness necessary to achieve such a level of finish.

The flying tourbillon frequently makes an appearance in the fine-watchmaking segment of Louis Vuitton timepieces, but the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata
is the first time this mechanism has been combined with a self-winding movement with dial-side automata. As the automaton is driven by its own dedicated mainspring, the flying tourbillon is able to maintain high levels of chronometric performance throughout the 65 hours of movement power reserve. The challenge of synchronising the dial animations of the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata has been answered by the cumulative expertise and experience of the movement development team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, led by master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. While the dial springs into action as if by magic, a glimpse behind the curtain is afforded by the open caseback.

In the upper right quadrant of the movement, an openworked bridge allows a tantalising view of the automaton mainspring, driving wheels and regulator. This complex assembly feeds energy to the seven dial automata, coordinates their running times and also controls the speed at which they operate. On the dial, each graceful motion of the automata, from the opening of the heart and revelation of the secret message, to the spinning Monogram Flowers, the dancing flames and the emerging thorns, is precisely calibrated to produce a 13-second symphony of mechanical excellence, seen nowhere else in the world except on the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata.

Art, Glass, Fire
The grand feu enamel dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata represents an important step for the Maison in terms of in-house savoir-faire — the integration of a millennia-old artisanal craft. The alchemy of grand feu enamel starts with the powdered silica, finely ground by hand and combined with various metal oxides that impart colour to the final result. After the enamel powder is applied to a prepared surface, it is fired in a kiln at temperatures between 700°C and 1,200°C, vitrifying the enamel. This brings out the intense and durable colours that have made grand feu enamel the decorative technique of choice for timepieces over the centuries.

On the dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, a combination of champlevé and cloisonné enamel is used to illustrate the various aesthetic elements. The former involves removing material from the dial surface, creating a space where enamel powder can be deposited. The latter requires the use of thin gold wires, meticulously shaped by hand and fixed onto the dial surface, creating closed cells which can then be filled with enamel. The art of grand feu enamel requires a delicate touch, years of experience and a highly disciplined — and, indeed, technical — approach. After working with some of the most revered enamel artists today, such as the legendary Anita Porchet, who created the dial of the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time Only Watch, the Maison now counts this rare craft as part of its in- house savoir-faire, under the expert hand of its master enameller.

Beauty emerges, refined and transcendent, from the crucible of horological knowledge and combined expertise at Louis Vuitton. The Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is the multi-layered result of the Maison’s approach to fine watchmaking, now elevated to unprecedented levels in all 169 years of Louis Vuitton history.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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In unveiling the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues its journey through the exclusive world of high watchmaking timepieces with automata. Paying tribute to the Sichuan Opera’s Bian Lian, the virtuoso decoration of this specific watch presents a traditional mask that comes to life and changes expression on demand.

An artistic performance driven by a virtuoso movement entirely conceived, developed, and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
After the Tambour Carpe Diem, which won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021, Louis Vuitton has left Europe and its expressive Vanitas and embarked on a new journey in China, the land of Bian Lian. This «art of changing masks» characteristic of the Sichuan Opera is a major source of inspiration for the Tambour Opera Automata watch.

In the same vein as the Carpe Diem figure that changed expression on demand, the Tambour Opera Automata highlights a remarkable discipline requiring unwavering dexterity. During the opera, the performers can put on up to twenty different masks in a fraction of a second, revealing their wide range of expressions. Each has their own technique for making these painted silk figures appear and disappear with a quick hand gesture or a graceful fanning motion. In the 21st century, very few actors still master the ancient art of Bian Lian.

To transpose this mysterious interplay of faces to a watch case, Louis Vuitton enlisted the help of the greatest contemporary craftsmen. Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps, created this exceptional watch movement, while Anita Porchet, Master Enameller, and Dick Steenman, Master Engraver, decorated the timepiece with virtuoso design.

«We wanted the Tambour Opera Automata to reflect the striking aesthetics and expressive movements of Bian Lian», explains Michel Navas.«This extremely challenging art remains a secret, just as automaton mechanisms require a perfect knowledge of traditional watchmaking skills.»

Originally, jacquemarts were automata designed to strike the hour on church bells. When watchmakers miniaturised them on watches, they became essentially decorative, animating dials with theatrical scenes, while the time was still traditionally marked by classic hands.

Unprecedented expression
With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues – in Asia – the daring journey it initiated in Europe in 2021 by creating of the Tambour Carpe Diem Automata dedicated to the Vanitas. By choosing to celebrate the Sichuan Opera today, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is taking its mastery of contemporary fine watchmaking to the next level. Indeed, this timepiece, which is the subject of several patents, took over two years to develop. As with the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time is only displayed on the dial – by means of a jumping hour and a retrograde minute mechanism – by activating the automaton. This calibre LV 525, totalling 426 components, has a power reserve of 100 hours.

As for the automaton mechanism, its five animations create a unique and unforgettable 16-second watchmaking spectacle, driven by this exceptional calibre with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. When the latch is pushed, the engraved pink gold dragon’s head rises to reveal the jumping hours inscribed on the forehead of the cloisonné enamel Bian Lian, while its tail indicates the retrograde minutes.

The mask’s expression changes dramatically – its eyebrows frown, its eyelid closes over its left eye, and the pupil of its right eye retracts to reveal a pointed Monogram flower. Going from joy to sadness through the movement of its chin, the Bian Lian mask expresses a wide range of emotions. The beauty of the dial and the lively rhythm of this miniature theatre leave the viewer spellbound.

The excellence of craftsmanship
To root this Tambour Opera Automata in the 21st century, Louis Vuitton has combined traditional Chinese symbols with the brand’s emblematic design elements, such as the canvas pattern and the Monogram flowers enamelled on the dial. Reigning supreme, the imperial dragon, a mythical creature associated with ancient Chinese emperors, represents strength, power and nobility.

The fan by its side is a sign of wisdom and authority. As for the clouds, they symbolise good luck, and the gourd in the shape of a calabash is believed to protect people from evil spirits. As an ultimate refinement, the Asian unlucky number 4 in the time display is replaced by a four-petalled Monogram flower.

Crafted in white, red and black cloisonné enamel separated with white gold threads, the mask owes its flawless workmanship to the master enameller Anita Porchet. The fan is given remarkable depth through the champlevé enamel technique, which involves removing some material from the surface in order to deposit colour pigments. The enamelling of the dial and crown took over seven days to complete.

Crafted over a period of nearly two weeks by the famous Swiss engraver Dick Steenman, the details engraved in the precious metal give the Tambour Opera Automata an unparalleled level of relief. The pink-gold dragon displays its expressive character in the smallest of details (piercing ruby eyes, engraved and sandblasted scales, etc.). So much so that it appears to literally leap out of the Bian Lian’s mask to reveal, open-mouthed, the time display.

The push button of the automaton depicting a dragon’s head, as well as the winding crown and adorned with a champlevé enamel fan, are entirely hand-made. Finally, pushing sophistication and technicality to the extreme, Louis Vuitton has reproduced the shape of the Chinese mask on the back of the movement, contrasting a shot blasted finish with a perfect mirror polish, without the slightest flaw.

With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton has amplified the technical complexity of the automaton watch with a bold, powerful and contemporary aesthetic. Personally speaking, diving into the craftsmanship behind this beautiful watch, I feel so much appreciation for the work that went into every little detail. A choice for the dedicated watch connoisseur.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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Right in time for Watches & Wonders next week, Cartier presents its newest must-have watch: Clash [Un]limited which is characterised by an elegant mechanism that stands out for its beauty, creating a jewellery watch that combines finesse with power.

Personally speaking, I am absolutely blown away by this new model. With beads, picot studs, clou carrés and mobility, the Clash de Cartier codes flow, intertwine, forge their way and manifest themselves in the form of a precious watch.

From faceted corners and bevelled dials to full and empty spaces, as well as round and square elements, its geometry is constant and true to the Maison’s style. A culture of design counterbalanced by Cartier’s graphic precision through movement, from the beads that roll over each other to the hinges of the bracelet, all articulated to create softness on the skin. An ambition to structure the watch and create perspective: from the form of its links to the mini case with its sixteen-faceted cut glass that accentuates the distinctive lines.

My favorite: SMALL MODEL, QUARTZ MOVEMENT, YELLOW AND VIOLET GOLD

The legacy of Jeanne Toussaint and her sense of volume comes to mind. As early as the 1930s, she dared to provoke glittering collisions between preciousness and the industrial aesthetic of ball bearings. A natural link between the past and present, as seen in this Clash [Un]limited watch, which also uses chromatic contrasts to emphasise the geometric motifs. How? Firstly, by alternating brushed and satin-finish gold, then by combining yellow or rose gold with violet gold, a new shade of gold in tones of shimmering violet, entirely developed for Cartier. It punctuates the watch, from the clou carré to the beads on the bracelet.

With variations on the same theme in limited-edition releases, the Clash [Un]limited watch is available in diamond-paved yellow gold, rose gold and white gold. It also unites exceptional pieces with stones that enhance the design in black and white with onyx, black spinels, obsidian and diamonds, or in different colours with coral, black spinels, chrysoprase, tsavorites and diamonds. Designed by the Cartier watchmaking studios, the Clash [Un]limited watch resides in the Maison’s creative repertoire of jewellery watches.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Cartier
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A square in a circle, small squares in a large square. Hermès loves to play with shapes. From the distant memory of those children’s games combining colours and volumes, Hermès has given life to a unique and playful watch. It could have been called Double Face, or Recto/Verso. Wow suits it so much better!

Wow, like his original idea. Two years ago, young comic book artist Ugo Bienvenu designed a surprising silk scarf for Hermès. It was named Wow. Why Wow? Because it picks up Hermès’ cherished equestrian spirit and transposes it into the world of comics.

The designer vaulted into the saddle and set his foot in the stirrups to offer small square comic-book-style panels within the large square shape of the silk scarf. Squares, bubbles, animation… A heroine crosses Paris on jet skis, rollerblades, in cars and of course on horseback. Two amused golfers wonder who this intrepid woman is? Amazon, secret agent, Parisian heroine? All that and more: she is the Hermès woman.

The Wow effect comes not only from the pattern, but also from the way in which is created, including a different colour scheme on each side: a multicolored interpretation on the front and a monochrome version on the back.

The idea made its way from Paris to Switzerland and the workshops of Hermès Horloger. A double-sided dial? Why not, as long as it is thin and translucent like the silk thread that inspired it. The obvious choice was mother-of-pearl, a dainty, elegant and feminine material through which the ray of light could shine and enable the artisan to set about creating a playfully radiant motif.

On the first side, the design is initially reproduced in black ink, visible on both sides. It guides the deft touch of the artisan until the last brush stroke. The entire décor of the motif is then hand-painted on this first side. The pastel colours are applied one by one: thick enough to give depth to the design, yet thin enough to let the light shine through – a subtle balance calling for the finest skilled craftsmanship. It takes about 20 layers to bring out every nuance of this design. Each is fired in the kiln at 90 °C to solidify the precious pigment.

The horse and heroine are majestically enthroned on the second face corresponding to the upper dial side of the watch. The colour is sharper, the volume denser, the design is every bit as lively as the rider and her mount. Together, they literally burst out of the dial. The Hermès gallop responds to the silky, muted solid colours painted on the reverse side of the watch with its brightly varied shades, its relief effects and its boldness. While the horse’s movement makes a sudden appearance, it stems from a wealth of meticulous and diligent work involving more than 35 hours to produce a single dial.

This timepiece with its Arceau case designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 comes in two versions powered by the same Manufacture H1912 self-winding movement. The first flaunts a dial in soft pink tones, while the second opts for bluish accents. Paired with a Hermès calfskin strap, each of these white gold Arceau Wow model features a bezel set with 82 diamonds and is issued in a 24-piece limited edition.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon / Anita Schlaefli
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As a result of their new collaboration, Hublot and Takashi Murakami present thirteen new NFTs and thirteen unique timepieces featuring the iconic smiling flower that is central to the Japanese artist’s work. It is a continuation of past projects, by rewarding the first buyers of the watches and collectors of the first NFTs through an exclusive approach.

«When my collaboration with Hublot was announced, we made it known that we would be adopting new forms of artistic expression. After creating all the timepieces together, as well as the digital works of art, we are now imagining new ways of accessing contemporary art.»
TAKASHI MURAKAMI

The thirteen unique NFTs are inspired by Japanese video games & TV from the 1970s as well as the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black, the first collaboration between the Swiss watchmaker and Takashi Murakami launched in January 2021. These NFTs are linked to a limited edition of 13 new and unique Classic Fusion watches that will be at Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Twelve of these watches will be available for purchase exclusively online on hublot.com, which can only be accessed by owners of at least one of the 324 NFTs issued in April 2022 as part of the third collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami.

These 324 NFTs were originally offered to owners of one of the two Hublot x Takashi Murakami watch models (Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black & Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow), before they were allowed to be exchanged on the decentralized NFT trading platform, OpenSea. The period between the announcement of the project in New York in February 2023 and the start of sales in early April 2023 in Geneva will allow any collector interested in one of the new watches to collect one of the NFTs available on OpenSea. Each buyer lucky enough to purchase one of the 12 new unique watches will receive a corresponding exclusive NFT.

Hublot and Takashi Murakami take the watch as a work of art to a new level, by bridging the art of fine watchmaking with digital art. The 13th watch of the collection is the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow and it is also the masterpiece. Taking inspiration from the two previously launched pieces, this watch reinterprets the iconic emblem of Takashi Murakami: the smiling flower. Here, the 12 petals of the flower form a perfect gradient of rubies, sapphires, amethysts, tsavorites and topaz. Thanks to an ingenious ball-bearing system developed by Hublot’s engineers, the petals create a dizzying spectacle of colour as they spin on an axis with each movement. The kinetic effect of the petals creates a striking effect against the 45mm black ceramic case. The center of the smiling flower is placed on top of the sapphire glass to create a three-dimensional effect.

The twelve other references, which will be available for purchase by holders of the NFTs on the dedicated ecommerce platform, recall the master flower and represent one of the petals. Twelve references for twelve hours on the dial, and twelve NFTs.

The heart of the watch beats with the manufacture Unico calibre set in the emblematic Classic Fusion design, a unique movement that offers a 72-hour power reserve. As the third watch collaboration between Hublot and the Japanese artist, this launch is proof of the incredible collectability of this partnership.

As the second step, collectors will then have a period of one year during which they will have the opportunity to trade the twelve NFTs on the OpenSea platform. In April 2024, at the end of this period, only the collector who has managed to collect all 12 of the new unique NFTs will be eligible to purchase the thirteenth and most sought-after watch: the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow. In the event that no single person has managed to gather all twelve NFTs, the watch will be auctioned by Hublot to raise funds for charity.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hublot #Hublot
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Turquoise watch dials have been all the rage lately. Audemars Piguet is jumping on the trend and is unveiling for the first time a new version of its 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model, entirely crafted in 18-carat yellow gold and illuminated by a natural turquoise dial.

Cut to form a slender disc, the turquoise has then been ground, sandblasted and polished before being integrated into a gilded brass outer casing. The overall thickness is just 0.75 mm. Each dial is one of a kind because every stone has its own natural composition, texture and colour, thus reacting differently to different machining operations or finishes. Originating from Mexico, the turquoise carefully selected to adorn this new model features a discreet pattern in a darker hue, making the appearance of each dial unique. Already used by the Egyptian and Chinese civilisations more than 3,000 years ago, turquoise is among the world’s oldest stones. This combination of historical heritage and vibrant colour makes it one of the jewellery industry’s most precious and sought-after gems. It is also reputed to have many spiritual benefits while bringing health, good luck and protection.

This is the first 37 mm Royal Oak variation in yellow gold since 2018. The case, bezel and integrated bracelet feature the Manufacture’s trademark touch in terms of hand-finishing with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces performed by the artisans in Le Brassus. Framed by this yellow gold case, the natural turquoise dial brings ocean-like intensity. Its blue shade strikes a contrast with the yellow gold hands and hour-markers featuring a luminescent coating enabling optimal readability in the dark. The turquoise is embellished by the polished yellow gold applique bearing the «Audemars Piguet» signature, which has been affixed to the dial with tiny feet specially designed to fit the thickness of the stone. The date window in the same colour as the stone ensures pleasing aesthetic harmony.

This new reference also showcases the design evolution that marked the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary by reinforcing its ergonomics as well as its visual impact. The corresponding developments visible on this 37 mm model include larger chamfers, trapeze-shaped first links on the tapering bracelet showing a pronounced decrease in thickness, along with a sapphire caseback slightly more integrated into the case middle.

This Royal Oak model is equipped with the latest selfwinding hour, minute, seconds and date movement from the Manufacture, Calibre 5900, which first appeared in 2022 on certain 37 mm references. This movement combines a slim 3.9 mm thickness, a high 4Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire caseback revealing the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight along with the refined decorations adorning the components, such as the polished angles, vertical satin brushing, Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfering.

While mineral or precious stone dials emerged on pocket watches in the late 19th century, it was not until the 20th century emergence of smaller-diameter wristwatches that the use of these fragile dials became more common. Stone dials flourished at Audemars Piguet between the late 1960s and the 1990s, at a time characterised by a revival of creativity in wristwatch design. The timepieces were thus adorned with a multitude of colours thanks to tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, aventurine, garnet, mother-of-pearl, opal, ruby, amethyst and jasper.
The new 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model extends this creative heritage by combining the natural brilliance of turquoise with a case entirely crafted in yellow gold, giving life to a timepiece with a resolutely sunny personality and positive vibes. Available for CHF 55.000.

I am absolutely in love with this model.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Audemars Piguet 2023
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In her ateliers on rue Cambon, Gabrielle Chanel always kept two tools to hand: a pair of scissors suspended from a ribbon which she wore round her neck as a sautoir, and on her wrist the indispensable tool of any seamstress, a pincushion.

In 2023, Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio, has borrowed this tool to create the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles watch.

«I like the image of this functional piece of jewelry that adorns the wrists of seamstresses,» says Arnaud Chastaingt. This essential dressmaking accoutrement generally takes the form of a metal cuff topped with a generously sized dome-shaped cushion. On a technical level, it enables dressmakers to keep and organize their pins and needles where they can see them, to help them as they work. «I am fascinated by the design of objects whose architecture is the product of a practical need. In terms of style, the pincushion commands authority on the wrist, with presence and impact. Its outsize format does not detract from its comfort in any way, and it adapts to all wrists. I love the random design of needles on the surface of the cushion. Organized or disorganized, the pinheads pricked into the fabric dome create a decorative effect that evolves with the progress of the seamstress’s work. I have adopted the spirit of this tool to create a watch. While its architecture has the boldness of simplicity, its oversized dial flirts with excess and offers an incredible space for expression. I dreamed of this creation as a blank canvas for the most audacious Métiers d’art. I have imagined five tableaux for this collection: a lacework of camellias, a composition of iconic bags, jewels strewn on black tweed, a diamond embroidery, and a jacket at the pattern stage.»

Each of these pieces tell a story, a story unique to CHANEL, a story of Couture and of Haute Horlogerie to which only CHANEL possesses the secret.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © CHANEL #MademoisellePrivé #CHANELHauteHorlogerie
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For the fourth time, Hublot celebrates its special relationship with Zermatt, the iconic Swiss Alpine resort town nestled at the base of the Matterhorn. Two original new creations are being released to mark this special occasion.

At first glance, they have nothing in common. On one side is the steep, jagged and rugged shape of the Matterhorn, carved out in rock over hundreds of millions of years. On the other, the mastery of perfect, modern lines by a contemporary manufacture. Yet, once again, Hublot has fused the elements and brought to life a creation that glorifies the silhouette of Switzerland’s most famous mountain within its legendary Big Bang.

However, this is not just any representation of the Matterhorn. It is depicted as it appears from Zermatt, because the Matterhorn has been the main witness to the union between Hublot and the iconic Alpine resort. For the last five years, the two entities have joined forces to celebrate their «Swissness». For example, Hublot has set up the most traditional of its boutiques at the heart of the resort, made entirely from wood in the purest respect for local architectural traditions. The Hublot boutique has since become an integral part of the charm and the magic of the area.

Hublot Boutique in Zermatt

Of course, Hublot, as an advocate for emotions and meaningful connections, was always going to take it to the next level! To reach the summit of the Zermatt ski resort, visitors now take the Hublot-Express (Gant-Blauherd), one of the resort’s most modern cable cars, built in 2016, and reaching an altitude of 2600 metres. The goal? To carve through fresh snow, or powder for more accomplished skiers, and arrive at Chez Vrony, the century-old family restaurant for whom Hublot is also the «Official Timekeeper». Click here for my first time in Zermatt in 2015 or click here to see me wearing the previous model, the Big Bang All Black Zermatt.

The new Big Bang Zermatt is part of this local dynamic, combining the best of Swiss tradition with modern watchmaking. The latest pieces in a collection created in 2017, the two new Big Bangs explore the two faces of watchmaking, like a climber scaling the two iconic faces of the Matterhorn.

Each version is available in a steel case – a return to the basics that has not been used by Hublot in a Zermatt special edition since 2018. The material, which features alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces, echoes the unique reflection of schist, the typical Swiss stone similar to slate which forms a large part of the Matterhorn. The sunray finished dial will illuminate this with an ever-changing light, like the faces of the Matterhorn under the continuously shifting sun.

These two editions both boast the special Big Bang Zermatt feature of which collectors are so fond: the Matterhorn at 9 o’clock on the men’ model, and at 3 o’clock on the ladies’ model. The latter boasts a bezel set with 36 diamonds which also punctuate the hour indices. Each bezel is equipped with screws made from titanium, a material inspired by the needs of mountaineers, whose equipment must be both light and strong. Once again, Hublot has mastered the fusion of substance and shape, colour and material, Alpine and watchmaking symbols.

Both versions are powered by a self-winding chronograph and complimented by two nubuck straps: the first in slate grey, the second in snow white, in a dual tribute to the iconic colours of Zermatt.

The BIG BANG STEEL ZERMATT is available for CHF 14’300.00 and the BIG BANG STEEL DIAMONDS ZERMATT is available for CHF 18’100.00.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hublot
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In 1987, CHANEL presented its first watch creation, the Première watch, designed for women by its Artistic Director Jacques Helleu. Choosing the octagonal shape of the stopper of the N°5 perfume bottle for its case and dressing it in black lacquer and borrowing the interlaced leather and chain strap of the iconic quilted bag for its bracelet, the Première surprised the watchmaking world that until then had been governed by masculine codes.

In 2022, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio presents the Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Haute Horlogerie capsule. Composed of 3 creations, the capsule is inspired by the first watchmaking creation of the House, the Première watch, and by its iconic gold interlaced chain. Black and gold set with diamonds, with bracelets that are oversized, many-faceted or dressed with the symbols of the House, the Hors-Série PREMIÈRE watches embody the audacity of an era.

«Exaggerated, agglomerated, superposed, stacked, I have chosen to pay tribute to Première by playing with excess,» says Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio.

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Iconic Chain
18K yellow gold case. Black-lacquered dial. 18K yellow gold chain bracelet set with 625 diamonds (~14.28 carats), interlaced with shaved black velvet. High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 625 brilliant-cut diamonds (~14.28 carats). Limited to 5 pieces. *Technical description of a size XS (wrist size: 150 mm).

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Chain Charms
18K yellow gold case. Black-lacquered dial. 18K yellow gold chain bracelet set with 112 diamonds (~3.39 carats), interlaced with black
velvet. 6 charms in yellow gold, onyx and diamonds representing symbols of the House: number 5, lion, camellia, Gabrielle Chanel, comet and byzantine motif. High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 283 brilliant-cut diamonds (~4.82 carats). Limited to 5 pieces.

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Gourmette Chain
18K yellow gold case. Dial set with 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.37 carat). 18K yellow gold gourmette chain set with 1016 diamonds (~3.89 carats). High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 1132 brilliant-cut diamonds (~4.26 carats). Limited to 5 pieces. *Technical description of a size XS (wrist size: 150 mm).

Love those models so much…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: © CHANEL #CHANELPremiere #CHANELHauteHorlogerie
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«The common denominator of all my designs and my passion is the same: timeless elegance, quality and craftsmanship. I aspire to create watches that portray a way of life and authenticity. Like everything else I design, I want them to have character and an enduring sense of style and luxury.» – Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren’s iconic stirrup-shaped timepiece debuts in new black finishes as the latest expression of the designer’s passion for the equestrian lifestyle. Watches from the Stirrup collection celebrate the grace, beauty and tradition of horse riding, all with the unrivaled precision of Swiss horological craftmanship.

The Ralph Lauren Stirrup Large and Medium Timepieces, in 36mm and 32mm respectively, are presented in a matte-black finish with every detail designed to Ralph Lauren’s specifications, from the black lacquered dial, with its Roman numerals and minute track, to the stainless steel case encompassed by a beautifully curved sapphire crystal. The self-winding, Swiss-made movement is hand-finished with vertical Côtes de Genève stripes and circular graining, known as perlage.

Completing the collection are the Ralph Lauren Small and Petite Timepieces designed with a stainless-steel case in a polished black finish. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, the water- resistant timepieces also boast a 74-month battery life. The two sizes, in 27mm and 23mm, are further complemented by a bracelet strap composed of interlocking chain links that adapt to the shape of the wrist for seamless wear.

A new interchangeable strap option—in black calf leather with tonal black stitching—features a small tab and stud that attach the top of the watchcase to the strap, emulating a rider’s saddle. The unique strap design recalls the contours of the saddle as it passes beneath the case and
through the stirrup to secure it.

Available for men and women, the watches are the perfect complement to Ralph Lauren’s fine jewelry and accessory collections.
Prices start from: CHF 2150 / € 2220 / $ 2400.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Ralph Lauren
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