Karl Lagerfeld’s Estate Auction Series

Karl Lagerfeld was one of the fashion world’s most famous and revered designers who revolutionised and reinvented the leading luxury brands in the business. An icon of pop culture, whose influence was felt far beyond the realm of luxury fashion, Karl Lagerfeld was one of the most recognisable figures of his generation, but always remained enigmatic.
This December, Sotheby’s is paying tribute to this genius designer, presenting an anthology of his unique taste and treasured mementos of his life and career by selling more than 1,000 lots from his residences in France and Monaco, the homes that he so carefully designed.

The first part of the Karl online auction has offered collectors a unique opportunity to acquire art objects and pieces owned by the late designer. On Monday, Dec 6, is your final chance to bid on the first part of the auction. Click here to see the lots.

Georges Lepape – La comédie

This auction features a superb collection of Georges Lepape drawings, and a diverse selection of design, clothing, luggage and pieces portraying Karl Lagerfeld from his residences in Monaco and Louveciennes, every one of which bears witness to his extraordinarily good taste.

The second part of KARL Paris online auction opens between 6 and 16 December. Click here to find the catalog.

«The story of this sale is of Karl Lagerfeld at home, of the private man behind the public persona. We see him as an absolute aesthete, applying the very same precision to the spaces he lived in as to the designs that saw him conquer the world of fashion. A glimpse inside his homes reveal a designer who knew how to perfectly balance the old and the new, the traditional with the radical, the serious with the surprising, and often with a twist of fun. And, a flick through the catalogue provides a tantalising hint at what it might have been like to sit around his dinner table, with the eclectic tableware, porcelains, glasses, linens and silver on display. It is items like these, and the most personal pieces offered throughout the sales, whether they be from his celebrated wardrobe, his dressing table, his linen cupboards or silver chests that help piece together the story behind the persona of one of the great designers of our times». – Pierre Mothes, Vice President of Sotheby’s France.

«He (Karl) was forthright, charismatic and decisive in every aspect of his life, but it is his sharp sense of humour that really shined behind closed doors as well as his encyclopaedic knowledge of art and culture that he generously shared at every opportunity.
Karl’s scope of work didn’t just evolve, he continually re-invented it, emerging season by season as a key player and shaper of the fashion zeitgeist; his vision was so extraordinary. I’ve often described him as the Warhol of fashion, because like Warhol his work spanned such a wide variety of media and he understood the relationship between photography, artistic expression, celebrity culture and advertising.» – Claudia Schiffer

Unsurprisingly, Karl Lagerfeld’s sharp eye for style extended into his private world, and the twenty residences he is believed to have designed throughout his life. The sale brings together tens of important pieces of decorative arts that reflect his passion for contemporary and industrial design that preoccupied him for the last 20 years, with glimpses of the 18th-century and Art Deco periods that captivated him for so long before that.

Martin Szekely
103 Black Console, 2006 | Console 103 black, 2006

Radical pieces of design – moulded in cool steel, aluminium, leather, glass and stone – by the likes of Marc Newson and Martin Szekely are juxtaposed with 18th-century luxuriance (gilt bronze and crystal chandeliers, a regal Louis XVI bed draped in a silver thread and yellow silk lampas, 18th-century sculpture), and many classic art deco pieces, something that Karl Lagerfeld first fell for in the 1970s, especially the work of Louis Süe and André Mare.

Objects from his desk

Lagerfeld’s passion for a sharp contemporary aesthetic peaked with his design of the futuristic apartment he spent two and a half years renovating on the Quai Voltaire next to the Seine. Here, in a 300-year-old building, he reinvented the traditional concept of an artist’s studio for the 21st century, with a monochromatic interior of glass, metal, concrete and silicone. This would become his primary residence in the city, where he lived with his celebrity cat Choupette. In his words: «This is not a house…It’s a spaceship!»

Karl Lagerfeld’s 8 rue des Saint-Pères apartment

The sale also opens the door to two of his residences that had never been seen before: a two-storied apartment on Rue des Saints-Pères (also in Paris) where he powerfully mixed minimal design with decorative arts, and, the last home he ever decorated – a 19th century villa in Louveciennes, near Versailles. The latter was contrived as a love letter to his German roots, adorned with posters of advertising, furniture and works of art dated from the beginning of the 20th century from his homeland.

Karl Lagerfeld
Set of four scrapbooks with fashion sketches, circa 2000 | Ensemble de quatre carnets de croquis de mode, vers 2000

It is Lagerfeld’s homes, and the personal touches throughout the sale that remind us of the man behind the image: sketches that show him as an artist at work with drawings not only for shoes and fashion designs, but of his partner of almost 20 years, Jacques de Bascher. They are joined by scrapbooks of photos and cuttings assembled by Lagerfeld himself, and artworks by one of his great inspirations, the early 20th century celebrated French illustrator and fashion designer, Georges Lepape. Embroidered cushions read «Ici, c’est la place du chat», reserving a seat for his famous cat Choupette, and monogrammed personal items adorn his desk and dressing table.

To the world however, Karl Lagerfeld was best known for cultivating an image so recognisable that it achieved cult status, and was reproduced again and again through paintings, drawings, sculptures, and even dolls in the shape of his famous silhouette, many of which are included in the collection.

Saint Laurent Paris, Velvet Tuxedo Jacket, 2016 | Saint Laurent Paris veste de smoking, 2016

Lagerfeld’s signature uniform was always a contemporary sleek black suit, dark sunglasses, and fingerless leather gloves, matched with an 19th-century-style oversized collar, tie pins, handheld fans, and a powdered white ponytail. And, the sales open the door to this most famous wardrobe, notably jackets from the luxury Parisian fashion houses – Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior to Maison Martin Margiela – as well as a globally diverse group of designers, notably from Japan, represented by Comme des Garçons. Many are in Lagerfeld’s signature colour: black, but others are in fabrics with snakeskin and leopard print designs, or with stripes, embroidery and studs. As for his diverse repertoire of fingerless gloves, the sale includes a kaleidoscope of colours and designs, in pink, red, silver, bronze, studs, stripes, chain mail.

CHANEL
Black Embossed Lambskin Tote Silver Hardware, circa 2010 

Despite Lagerfeld’s designated role as the «channeler of Coco», Karl Lagerfeld rarely wore Chanel himself, once insisting that «In CHANEL, I look like my mother». Nonetheless a handful of Chanel items are represented in the sale. Most unique is the black shoulder bag that he took with him everywhere. The style was never released in CHANEL boutiques or even worn on the runway. Its exact design never materialised beyond the prototype style in Karl Lagerfeld’s personal collection, making it an item as mysterious as the owner himself.

You can visit the exhibition in Paris
11 December | 10:00 AM–3:00 PM
12 December | 10:00 AM–6:00 PM
13 December | 10:00 AM–8:00 PM
14 December | 10:00 AM–1:00 PM

Location:
76, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris

Karl Lagerfeld’s villa in Louveciennes

Sotheby’s Cologne will present another auction dedicated to the estate of the Hamburg-born Karl Lagerfeld in spring of next year, comprising an exquisite selection of objects from his last residence in Louveciennes, spanning various epochs and styles, but with a special focus on early 20th German art. The sale will star pieces from 1920s Germany by the architect and furniture designer Bruno Paul, as well the pinnacle of German commercial art from the beginning of the 20th century – rare collectible posters – that Lagerfeld collected for thirty years, and are likely to be particularly sought after in the auction. Highlights can be viewed in the prestigious space of Palais Oppenheim in Cologne in advance of the auction.

The auction of Karl Lagerfeld’s Estate is an insight into the world of this discerning and insatiable collector. Revealing the story of the couturier, the collector, the designer and the photographer – the true legend that Lagerfeld was.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Karl Lagerfeld and © Sandra Bauknecht

Claridge’s Christmas Tree 2021

Named «The Celestial Snow Globe», Claridge’s Christmas Tree 2021, has been created by Kim Jones, Artistic Director of the Dior men’s collections. This unique, contemporary tree – luminous and crystalline in its transparency and purity – tells a Christmas story woven from emotions and dreams.

Evoking the idea of a magnificent snow globe, this year’s dazzling tree is an enchanting object of desire, illuminated with magical sparkles and reflecting snowflakes, travelling across the surface. State-of-the-art holographic projections are mixed with toile, recalling the emblematic toile of the Dior Haute Couture Ateliers, while traditional pleating techniques are also highlighted, a tribute by Kim Jones to the excellence of the Dior Ateliers «petites mains». These projections radiate from the base, upwards and beyond the tree, creating magical visuals around the space and up the famous staircase, all set against an atmospherically lit lobby.

«It has been a great honour for me to have designed the Christmas Tree for Claridge’s and thus brought Dior, London and the Christmas spirit together in this iconic place.» – Kim Jones

In another nod to the House’s heritage, the Christmas baubles, that seem to float in orbit around the tree, reflect Dior’s iconic motifs. These include, stars – Monsieur Dior’s celestial good-luck charm – and miniature perfume bottles in the form of Monsieur Dior’s dog, Bobby, who was symbolically reinterpreted and celebrated by Kim Jones for his first Dior show.

This whimsical homage to the House’s founder continues with Kim Jones’s faithful canine companion, Cookie, perched on top of the 6.5 meter tree, delicately hugging Monsieur Dior’s lucky star. The star echoes the shape of the talisman that Monsieur Dior treasured in his office – a decisive sign of his destiny that played a key role in his decision to create his couture house in 1946.

So beautiful and different… and by the way, I could totally see Kim Jones becoming the new Artistic Director of CHANEL. Lagerfeld started at Fendi, too. Just saying…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Claridge’s

Rest in Peace Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh, the acclaimed artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection and founder and CEO of Off-White, the label he founded in 2012, died of cancer on Sunday, according to a post from his verified Instagram account. He was only 41.

«We are devastated to announce the passing of our beloved Virgil Abloh, a fiercely devoted father, husband, son, brother, and friend. He is survived by his loving wife Shannon Abloh, his children Lowe Abloh and Grey Abloh, his sister Edwina Abloh, his parents Nee and Eunice Abloh, and numerous dear friends and colleagues,» the post read. «For over two years, Virgil valiantly battled a rare, aggressive form of cancer, cardiac angiosarcoma. He chose to endure his battle privately since his diagnosis in 2019, undergoing numerous challenging treatments, all while helming several significant institutions that span fashion, art, and culture

A trained architect, Abloh, who also worked in Chicago street fashion, entered the world of international fashion with an internship at Fendi in 2009, alongside American rapper Kanye West. The two then began an artistic collaboration that would launch Abloh’s career into founding Off-White. The first African-American to be artistic director at a French luxury fashion house, Abloh was named by Time magazine as one of the 100 most influential people in the world in 2018. Abloh’s design aesthetic which bridged streetwear and luxury clothing was described as transformative by the The New York Times. According to The Wall Street Journal, he reached a level of global fame unusual for a designer.

His death has shocked the world of fashion and many industry leaders pay tribute to the late designer who leaves a big impact on the way we dress behind.

Rest in Peace, Virgil Abloh!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Instagram / Louis Vuitton

Bottega Veneta Appoints Matthieu Blazy

That was a very quick move! Bottega Veneta has named Matthieu Blazy as its creative director with immediate effect after the unexpected departure of Daniel Lee, owner Kering said in a statement.

Set to present his first collection in February 2022, Blazy joined Bottega Veneta as its design director last year under Daniel Lee and was now promoted to the top position.

Matthieu Blazy

Blazy, who leaves between Antwerp and Milan, previously worked under Raf Simons at his namesake brand and at Calvin Klein, as well as doing stints under Phoebe Philo at Celine. He also served as the designer of Maison Margiela’s «Artisanal» couture line.

Bartolomeo Rongone

Bartolomeo Rongone, CEO of Bottega Veneta, said: «Matthieu Blazy is an extraordinarily talented individual, whom I am proud and excited to entrust with the creative helm of our luxury House. Bottega Veneta has always been equated with signature craftsmanship and distinctive creativity. Matthieu’s appointment will further enhance the modern relevance of our brand and accelerate our growth, while preserving the values that are at the core of Bottega Veneta.»

Good Luck!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Pompom by Lola Rykiel

My first internship in the world of fashion was at Sonia Rykiel in Paris in her design office. It was a very intense time, where I learnt a lot at the side of the famous French designer who was known for her knit pieces, earning her the nickname «the Queen of Knits.» I especially loved all her marabou jackets and coats. The way she always put an extra touch of feathers to elevate a look to new heights of chic has inspired me a lot. Rykiel passed away in August 2016, leaving behind an empire of homeware, childrenswear, and more.

Sonia and Lola Rykiel

I remember meeting her daughter Nathalie Rykiel with her daughter Lola, who must have been around 12 at that time, during my internship. Today, Lola Rykiel is creating her own line of clothes, and is shaking up the status quo with a bold new athleisure collection, called Pompom, inspired by her famed designer grandmother, the late Sonia Rykiel, and her past as a ballerina under the instruction of the inimitable Martha Graham.

«Naked… with rhinestones.»

«The collection incorporates the velours that my grandmother loved as well as stretch Lycra materials and playful detailing,» Lola Rykiel explains, referring in part to a basketball jersey complete with mermaid-esque paillettes.

Lola Rykiel introduces «Sonia» bodysuit and «Wonder Woman» T-Shirt.

«I wanted to invent some workout clothes that would be luxe and chic, to do pilates, yoga , dance without being afraid to bump into your ex or your boss. These outfits are perfect to get a drink, go party or chill at home too. I used my grandmother’s Sonia famous velours and the best lycra materials there is today

This year Lola Rykiel opened the first boutique for her Pompom label in a space in Paris at Rue Grenelle that used to belong to her grandmother, Sonia Rykiel — and she is putting her stamp on it by bedazzling everything from the curtains to the cash register.

To see the whole PomPom collection visit : www.pompom-paris.com.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Pompom

Daniel Lee To Leave Bottega Veneta

OMG! The latest breaking news in the world of fashion… according to BOF, designer Daniel Lee is set to leave Bottega Veneta. A surprise move the group described as a «joint decision», especially as according to Bain, sales rose 2.2 % to nearly €1.2 billion in 2019 under Lee who managed to keep the company growing slightly even during the pandemic in 2020.

Bottega Veneta has set a new standard for luxury since its birth in Vicenza in 1966. Inspired by Italian culture with a global outlook, the House is defined by a distinctly refined attitude. Bottega Veneta uses noble materials to create considered pieces that become part of their owner’s lives. The House embraces a core philosophy of style, innovation and luxury, applied to a full offer for women, men and home.

Daniel Lee was appointed Creative Director in 2018. Born in Bradford in the North of England, Daniel studied at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and graduated in 2011. Having worked for fashion Houses in London, New York and Paris throughout his career (for example in the studio of Phoebe Philo’s Celine and at Donna Karan), Lee bought a distinct understanding of modern luxury to Bottega Veneta.

He is the brainchild behind the new must-have color green. During his three-year tenure, he played with the texture and proportion of the house’s key intrecciato leather to create must-have bags, such as The Pouch or The Point, and shoes that fashionistas around the world drooled over. His designs have been copied not only by the high street labels but also from other luxury houses.

The must-have Lagoon bubble-insole leather sandals in green.

«My time at Bottega Veneta has been an incredible experience,» Lee said in a statement. «I am grateful to have worked with an exceptional and talented team and I am forever thankful to everyone who was part of creating our vision.»

One of Lee’s best designs for Bottega: The Pouch large gathered intrecciato leather clutch.

Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault thanked Lee for a «singular vision» that «made the House’s heritage relevant for today and put it back to the center of the fashion scene.»

Bottega Veneta Salon 01 S/S 2021

A new creative organisation for the brand will be announced soon, Kering said. Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Bottega Veneta and by Streetstyleshooters / Getty Images
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Nespresso x Johanna Ortiz

This holiday season, Nespresso is collaborating with Colombian fashion designer Johanna Ortiz, to enchant coffee lovers with the launch of its annual Festive collection, inspired this year by the forest.

Inspired by the beauty and depth of Nature’s forests, Nespresso’s ‘Gifts of the Forest’ collection encapsulates the brand’s devotion to the precious environment coffee is grown in. The collection features a range of limited-edition coffees for both the Original and Vertuo systems, along with festive infused accessories, making for delightful and inspiring gifts for family and friends. Coffee lovers can also gift this festive season knowing Nespresso is giving back to the forest, as the brand goes beyond its agroforestry commitments, by helping to protect 10 million trees in the Amazon.

To bring the design of their limited-edition collection to life, Nespresso has partnered with Colombian luxury fashion designer Johanna Ortiz, whose innovative designs and interplay between nature and sustainability truly transports coffee aficionados into Nespresso’s festive universe.

Johanna Ortiz says «For me, design and nature go hand in hand which is why this collaboration resonated personally. Colombian coffee also has a truly special place in my heart and as an active supporter in the fight against climate change, knowing that Nespresso is going beyond its agroforestry commitments by supporting the protection of 10 million trees in the Amazon, it was another huge reason why this collaboration made perfect sense. When designing the collection, I took the idea of capturing the beauty of the forest throughout every piece, by incorporating rich forest canopies and dark earthy tones within my designs. It’s been an amazing process and partnership which I have deeply enjoyed

Explore and wander through Nespresso’s Forest Variations coffees. From forest fruits to luscious canopies of trees, this year’s Festive coffee range includes two flavored coffees and one black coffee.

Uncover the hidden flavors of Forest Black
A canopy of trees shelters Forest Black’s coffees to protect the flavor hidden in each bean. Discover this blend of shade-grown coffees from Colombia and beyond. A spicy espresso, its exotic woody notes will transport tastebuds to the depths of the forest.

Taste the berries of the Forest with Forest Fruit Flavour
Like gems that light up the forest floor, forest fruits are the gifts trees give us. Juicy berry aromas run through this season’s flavoured espresso as the South American Arabicas’ lingering cereal character takes on a festive sweet pastry note.

Delight in the treasures of the trees with Forest Almond Flavour
Forest Almond Flavour is the forager’s delight of the season. With the sweet, nutty flavour tucked into this espresso’s South American Arabicas, get ready to uncover almond notes marked by vanilla and a light fruitiness in this coffees’ smooth cereal character.

Nespresso lovers can also surprise and delight guests with delicious Gifts of the Forest coffee cocktail recipes, specially crafted to enhance the sensory experience. Each coffee-infused recipe has been curated by Nespresso with the Gifts of the Forest collection in mind, bringing a taste of nature and sophistication to each glass.

Moreover, there is a beautiful range of limited-edition accessories and gifts this festive season to surprise loved ones. You can countdown in style with the Nespresso x Johanna Ortiz advent calendar. For this edition, its stunning packaging has been designed by Johanna Ortiz as part of her festive collaboration. Available for both Vertuo and Original coffee lovers, this year’s advent calendar will take Nespresso lovers through a different coffee each day from December 1 to 23, with a special gift on the 24.

You can also add a burst of color with the Nespresso x Johanna Ortiz NOMAD travel mug, which blends well into nature as it comes in a ‘Deep Cherry’ shade, emulating the rich ripe berries of the forest.

In addition to its coffee offer, there are two exclusively designed items for the festive season. Shoppers can get their hands on an alluring reversible organic-cotton tote bag as well as a useful notebook made from sustainable materials. Both are decorated with the signature Nespresso x Johanna Ortiz pattern showcasing sweeping forest canopies and capturing the true essence of the forest.

For coffee lovers who like a touch of sparkle on the go, Nespresso is also revamping its iconic Touch travel mug, that will be available in a golden colorful a limited time only.

Nespresso is also proud to be partnering with Conservation International to gift back to the forest this Festive season. For almost 20 years Nespresso has been focused on protecting nature through agroforestry projects to protect the ecosystems its coffee farms rely on. To take this further beyond coffee farming and support the local communities that call the forest home, Nespresso is also announcing its contribution to protecting 10 million trees in the Amazon Forest in La Pedrera, Colombia. The effort is in collaboration with Conservation International and La Pedrera’s Madroño community. Forest conservation plays a huge role in Nespresso’s sustainability vision, which is to create a cup of coffee that has a positive impact on the world – from the coffee cherry to the cup.

The limited edition Gifts of the Forest collection is now available on www.nespresso.com and in selected boutiques.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Nespresso

Phoebe Philo Is Launching Her Own Brand

Amazing news for all fashion addicts. Our beloved Phoebe Philo announced that she is returning to the world of fashion with an independent, namesake label with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.

«Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling,» Philo said in a brief statement. «I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me

A graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins fashion college, Philo was classmates with Stella McCartney. Being close friends, Philo joined Stella at Chloé in 1997 as her design assistant succeeding her as creative director in 2001 when McCartney left to set up her own fashion house in a joint venture with Gucci Group.

With her amazing personal style, Philo succeeded in accelerating Chloé’s rejuvenation and catapulting it into the high-margin leather goods business. During her tenure, Chloé’s look was widely copied by fast-fashion chains and she created hit handbags like the Paddington (see photo below) and Silverado.

In 2006 Philo left Chloé. During this break from the industry, she moved back to London to be with her family and had her second child. In 2008, LVMH offered her a job as creative director and board member of the French Maison Céline, where she set up her studio for the company and continued to work in London whilst showing in Paris. She agreed, and presented her debut collection the next year to much critical acclaim.

In 2017 after 10 years of working at Céline and much speculation in the media it was announced that Philo would step down as the creative director of Céline after the Pre-Fall 2018 collection.

Phoebe Philo’s work at Céline redefined what women aspire to wear, with her minimalist aesthetic, clean lines and tonal colour palette gaining traction with critics and consumers alike. Consistently name checked by fashion insiders as the label they want to wear, Philo successfully resuscitated a tired Parisian house and recast it as an imperative part of each season’s fashion dialogue.

It is said that Phoebe has had a small team working in London since late last year to set up her own company.

«I have had a very constructive and creative working relationship with LVMH for many years. So it is a natural progression for us to reconnect on this new project. I have greatly appreciated discussing new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault and I am delighted to be embarking on this adventure with their support,» Phoebe explained.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH, called Philo «one of the most talented designers of our time

«We have known her and appreciated her for a long time. Phoebe contributed to the success of the group through her magnificent creations over several years,» he said. «With this in mind, I am very happy to partner with Phoebe on her entrepreneurial adventure and wish her great success.»

I am so excited to see Phoebe’s first collection as I still love to wear all her previous designs at Chloé and Céline. According to an interview with WWD, Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label create clothing and accessories «rooted in exceptional quality and design.» More details about her new brand are said to be revealed in January 2022.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo, Chloé and Céline

Live Talk with Matchesfashion

Yesterday, I hosted a live talk on zoom with MATCHESFASHION and their Chief Commercial Officer Elizabeth von der Goltz about the newest trends, upcoming designers and must-have pieces available on the website.

I put together a summary of last night with all details and shopable links included. Just click on the highlighted text to be transferred directly. Enjoy!

NEW DESIGNERS

Kenneth Ize

iconKenneth Ize made his Paris Fashion Week debut for F/W 2020, showcasing a tribute to the beauty of West African artisanship. He initially launched his eponymous label at Lagos Fashion Week in 2013, then took a two-year hiatus to study at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under the guidance of Hussein Chalayan; the experimental ethos of whom influences his exuberant use of colour. Now a shortlisted designer for the 2019 LVMH prize, Ize is recognised for his vibrant tailoring and casual separates, rendered in handwoven Yoruban aso-oke fabric and partnered with Austrian lace.

Kika Vargas

Bogotá-born Kika Vargas launched her eponymous label in 2010, fulfilling a lifelong dream inspired by childhood memories of watching her mother dress up. The designer studied fine art and fashion design respectively at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and Marangoni Fashion Institute in Milan, subsequently going on to work at Missoni, which she credits for igniting her love of colour. Ready-to-wear pieces are crafted locally in Colombia – think voluminous midi dresses with romantic ruffles and tiers alongside playful printed co-ords.

Lisa Folawiyoicon

Nigerian designer Lisa Folawiyo started her own fashion line in 2005 after purchasing 12 yards of Ankara textiles, batik-inspired wax-resist fabrics adopted throughout West Africa, and asking a local seamstress to create two skirts that she decorated herself. 15 years on, she’s the winner of the 2012 Africa Fashion Award and was included in the Business of Fashion’s 2015 BOF500 list. Her ready-to-wear collection fuses vibrant traditional patterns with contemporary silhouettes that are hand-finished by expert craftspeople – it takes approximately 240 hours to embellish a single garment with the label’s signature beads, sequins and crystals.

Lug von Siga

Gul Agis trained at the Marangoni Fashion Institute and Politecnico di Design in Milan and honed her skills in luxury fashion consultancy before launching Lug Von Siga, an anagram of her name, in 2010. Drawing influence from the storied heritage of her native Turkey, the designer explores womenswear through a contemporary lens, uniting charming design tropes with sophisticated colours to create elegant wardrobe staples with an inherently feminine spirit. Expect dresses, blouses and swimwear rendered in crisp cotton and finished with voluminous ruffles.

B Sides

Named after and inspired by the second side of a vinyl record, B Sides celebrates the imperfect and was built on founders Claire Lampert and Stacy Daily’s love of vintage jeans. The duo sources rare styles ranging anywhere from cowboys in Colorado to industrial rag houses, then re-work the material into modern silhouettes. New denim is woven by 19th-century family-run mills in Georgia and North Carolina, which stays true to the label’s effortlessly retro aesthetic. Expect flattering and timeless cuts that are given a playful twist through washes, distressing and upcycled patchwork.

Vaqueraicon

Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan and Bryn Taubensee celebrate the eccentric and unexpected with their New York-based label Vaquera, founded in 2013 and named in reference to DiCaprio’s nickname, the Spanish word for ‘cowgirl’. Collections explore the notion of ‘making fashion fan fiction’, subverting conventional sartorial codes and exploring the drama of exaggerated texture, oversized cuts and reworked wardrobe staples with innovative fabric pairings. Expect shirting, jeans, T-shirts and jackets with graphic accents and whimsical trims.

Homme Girls

Thakoon Panichgul launched multi-discipline platform HommeGirls in 2019 after a hiatus from the fashion industry, having paused his eponymous label two years earlier. The label champions the sophistication of androgynous dressing, originally founded as a specialist zine ‘dedicated to women who shop the men’s department’, later expanding to a collection of wardrobe staples inspired by the personal style of Katherine Hepburn, Grace Coddington and Brana Wolf. Expect oversized shirting, relaxed underpinnings and boxer shorts with cropped hems and raw edges.

Totême

Founded in 2014 by husband and wife duo Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, Stockholm-based label Totême offers refined pieces ideal for creating pared-back contemporary uniforms. Its minimalist aesthetic is composed of muted hues, fluid silhouettes and flattering loose proportions, harmonising to create considered ready-to-wear pieces which form the backbone of edited wardrobes. Expect borrowed-from-the-boys T-shirts, oversized coats and sweeping dresses in neutral colour palettes that will bring an understated yet elevated mood to weekday ensembles. And most importantly the most comfortable yet stylish footwear. There will also be an exclusive capsule collection coming up at MATCHESFASHION.

NEW DESIGNERS FOR F/W 2021

The Frankie Shopicon

Former journalist Gaelle Drevet launched The Frankie Shop in 2014 as a boutique in New York’s Lower East Side, offering a hand-picked curation of emerging labels that reflected her desire for classic pieces that transcend seasons and trends. In 2017, a second location was opened in Paris before the company branched out to create its own range of ready-to-wear, continuing the muted, elegant mood. Expect pared-back and practical loungewear rendered in earthy, natural shades.

Rejina Pyoicon

Central Saint Martins alumna and British Fashion Award winner Rejina Pyo founded her eponymous London-based label in 2014 and has since become a cult name among industry insiders, known for her architectural silhouettes and saturated hues. A design ethos of ‘bringing the extraordinary to the everyday’ is translated through staple silhouettes reimagined with artistic subtleties such as sharp cutouts, topstitching and sculptural buttons, largely inspired by the designer’s mother’s love of antiques. Expect inherently feminine codes underpinned by a perfect fusion of vintage and modernity.

Canada Goose

Founded in 1957, Canada Goose is known for making the world’s warmest coat, the Snow Mantra parka, and the original prototype was designed for Arctic explorers to withstand temperatures as low as -70 degrees Celsius. The outerwear is filled with sustainably sourced North American down feathers – the best natural filler for warmth-per-weight ratio with a reduced impact on climate change than artificial fibres. Each jacket champions the label’s made in Canada heritage and passes through the hands of 13 craftsmen, enduring rigorous testing to brave the harshest elements.

EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS AND CAPSULE COLLECTIONS

Loewe x Paula’s Ibizaicon

Loewe’s Paula’s Ibiza collection launched in 2016 after creative director Jonathan Anderson sought inspiration from Armin Heinemann’s famed Spanish boutique. Established in 1972 in the heart of Ibiza’s Old Town, the store’s curation takes cues from the era’s hippie revival, fusing a care-free attitude with Heinemann’s artistic vision, which swiftly became a sought-out hub for the island’s riotous bohemians such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino Garavani, and Freddie Mercury. Through this lens, Loewe presents a collection of laid-back wardrobe staples infused with Mediterranean charm.

Salvatore Ferragamo

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Salvatore Ferragamo is considered a benchmark of understated luxury, established in 1927 upon the founder’s return to Florence from Boston. Ferragamo honed his craft as a cobbler in Naples before setting up his made-to-measure workshop on Via Mannelli, which would see his avant-garde ideas manifest to critical acclaim, most notably Judy Garland’s ‘Rainbow 1938 leather and suede platform sandals and the iconic cork wedge heels. Now with a reputable expansion into ready-to-wear, the house celebrates classic Italian glamour with a distinctly feminine narrative – a reputation endorsed by collaborations with some of Hollywood’s most esteemed costume studios for over sixty years. Today launches a very special capsule collection dedicated to the iconic footwear pieces.

Loup Charmant
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Loup Charmant (which means charming wolf) is the soft separates brand launched in 2006 by designer Kee Edwards. Each piece is geared for all-day, everyday wear, through diaphanous fabrics and feminine lines. Soon there will be an exclusive capsule collection available at MATCHESFASHION.

Emilia Wickstead
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Years before Emilia Wickstead‘s dresses became a favourite on the red carpet, she began her training alongside her mother – a bespoke womenswear designer in their native New Zealand. After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2007, Wickstead moved to New York and gained experience working for some of the industry’s biggest fashion houses. In 2011, she showed her first collection at London fashion week and quickly garnered a following for her modern, ladylike aesthetic. Worn by a diverse collective of stars – from Alexa Chung to the Duchess of Cambridge – the designer’s elegant dresses and separates are recognisable for their sumptuous fabrics and sophisticated colour palette.
I personally love Emilia’s designs and am very excited for an exclusive beach capsule collection coming up on MATCHESFASHION.

Terry

Close friends Lucy Halfpenny and fashion photographer Brigette Clarke were inspired by their love of 1970s American poolside attire and long European summers to launch their beachy label Terry, after the pair met up wearing the same vintage terry-towelling bucket hat by chance. The Australian label offers carefree separates ideal for long summer days, reinterpreting sporty tennis pieces with an effortless, laid-back mood. Expect tie-front tops and gradient dip-dyed shorts realised in sunset shades that form a composed warm-weather capsule.

Emilio Pucci Beachwear

 Jet-set glamour doesn’t come much more established or recognisable than Emilio Pucci. The brand’s high-octane, 1970s-tinged aesthetic is beloved worldwide. My favorite when it comes to beachwear (just placed an order while writing this post). An exclusive summer capsule will launch soon. 

Isa Bouldericon

Born from a love of meticulous craftsmanship, Indonesian label Isa Boulder balances contemporary aesthetics with the values of small-scale production. Founders Yuli and Lia combine their expertise in architecture, business and fashion to create a comprehensive swimwear offering, with each piece made by local artisans in the label’s Bali studio using recycled Italian Lycra. Shape and fit are key considerations for every design, with flattering cutouts and strategically placed seams used to ‘seek out new ways to accentuate the female form’. Expect swimsuits and bikinis in earthy pastel hues and a very special capsule collection.

JEWELRY NEW DESIGNERS

Fry Powers
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After training at the Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, Allison Fry launched her jewellery line Fry Powers in 2018. She draws inspiration from a wide range of Modernist and Pop artists such as Ellsworth Kelly, Frank Stella, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. Each piece is locally crafted in the label’s New York studio from sterling silver and 14kt gold adorned with colourful hand-applied enamel for a mood-lifting touch. Keep an eye out for statement rings, necklaces and earrings in a spectrum of rainbow hues.

Laura Lombardi
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Raised between Tuscany and New York, designer Laura Lombardi combines the simplicity and warmth of Italian design with gritty industrial accents for her eponymous jewellery line, founded in 2010. Exaggerated proportions and elegant curvature underscore the collections, citing her background in sculpture, which are sustainability crafted by Brooklyn-based artisans and metalsmiths using recycled brass, upcycled charms and fastenings with a zero-waste gold-plating system. The result is a considered repertoire of spirited adornments, designed to be worn every day. Fun pieces for a great price.

FALLON

A vivacious, punkish and experimental spirit defines Dana Lorenz’s jewellery label FALLON, launched in 2007 in New York City. It blends statement proportions and industrial influences with dainty stones in classic cuts to create wearable pieces that can be mixed and matched, inspired by the drama of 1980s pop culture and customisable accessories. The result is a stone-smattered collection of earrings, bracelets and necklaces with chain-inspired accents.

JEWELRY EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS

Jacquie Aiche x Cartier
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Jacquie Aiche’s design philosophy is to make every woman look and feel uniquely beautiful. Merging Native American gemstones with Middle Eastern influences, the designer’s signatures are delicate body chains, multi-layered necklaces and goddess-inspired amulets. Her special take on Cartier watches is exclusive to MATCHESFASHION.

Sophie Bille Brahe
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Sophie Bille Brahe’s understated gold jewellery has a celestial element that’s inspired by the work of her ancestor, the astronomer Tycho Brahe who discovered the constellation Cassiopeia. The Copenhagen-based founder honed her skills at London’s prestigious Royal College of Art and crafts the pieces by hand using traditional goldsmith techniques. Look to the label’s signature Croissant de Lune earrings, Peggy necklace and Tennis bracelet with graduated diamonds and pearls to lend a minimalist feel to everyday edits.

HOME EXLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS & CAPSULES

La DoubleJ x Laduréeicon

Street-style star, journalist and contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Wallpaper* magazines JJ Martin launched La DoubleJ in 2015, initially as a platform to sell her collection of vintage clothing. Soon, she began to create ready-to-wear pieces, working with top Italian textile manufacturers, such as Mantero, to use reissued vintage prints from their archives. More recently, the Milan-based brand has expanded to include homeware, collaborating with French pâtisserie Ladurée to create bold tableware  with charming motifs which explore archetypes of fertility and renewal.

Reflections Copenhagen
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Danish homeware label Reflections Copenhagen was founded in 2015 after Julie Hugau and Andrea Larsson discovered a mutual affinity for art and decór. The duo takes inspiration from the dynamic expression of the Art Deco movement, resulting in a refined homeware offering that fuses exquisite design with a dedication to impeccable craftsmanship. The innovative shape of each piece is designed to capture and manipulate light, creating an array of captivating shadows. Expect sophisticated yet functional ornaments such as vases and dishes, all expertly handmade using time-honoured techniques and created to last for generations.

Mrs. Alice
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Alice Naylor-Leyland founded homeware label Mrs Alice in 2019, celebrating the ritual of setting a table. Drawing on childhood memories of her mother’s enviable interiors and a fashion education at Istituto Marangoni, she unites old-world craftmanship with whimsical and contemporary details to create a collection of fantasy-inspired tableware designed to enrich the everyday occasions. Expect an exclusive selection of picnic hampers, all underscored with English charm.

TRENDS S/S 2021

The Joyful Everyday

Everyday pieces, from jeans to sleepwear, have been given a joyful spin by designers who are experimenting with bold, uplifting colours and prints.
From left to right: Flying Flowers-print silk-twill shirt dress by Valentino, polka-dot satin shirt and matching trousersicon, both by HalpernMassey tie-dye cashmere-gauze gown by Gabriela Hearst.

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Celebrating At Home

For those of us who can, this year is about entertaining at home. The aim is to go all-out and have some fun with uplifting colour and print – both in wardrobes and interiors.

From left to right: My look: Distressed logo-intarsia sweater in yellowicon, distressed open-weave wool sweater in black, and belted pleated mohair-blend skirticon, all by Prada, homeware by Gergei Erdei, Zina fringed silk-satin dressicon by Roksanda.

The Finer Things

As our focus shifts towards making every day special, timeless investments like fine jewellery replace occasion pieces as a luxury we can wear 24/7. There are pieces for every woman, no matter what her taste.

From left to right: Fine jewelryicon by Suzanne Kalan, diamonds by Shay, fun piecesicon by Eéra.

The Great Outdoors

As we seek open-air pursuits and a connection with nature, and spend more time outdoors connecting with friends, a wardrobe of practical pieces in which to face the elements is high on the agenda.

From left to right: Single-breasted water-repellent canvas trench coaticon by Bottega Veneta, striped mohair-blend sweater by Marni, teddy coat by Max Mara.

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Wardrobe Foundations

If you were to clear out your wardrobe and start again, these are the pieces you would buy first. They form the basis of our Wardrobe Foundations edit.

From left to right: Loafersicon by Fabrizio Viti, underwearicon by Rossell England, a white shirticon by Bourienne Paris X.

Denim Redefined

Upcycled chambray at Gabriela Hearst, reworked Levi’s at Valentino and vintage patchworking from new brand B Sides: we are viewing denim in a new light this season.

From left to right: 517 upcycled bootcut jeansicon by Valentino x Levi’siconVirginia sweetheart-neck linen-denim dressicon by Gabriela Hearst, single-breasted denim jacket, and straight-cut denim midi skirt, bothicon by Lemaire.

iconELIZABETH’S F/W 2021 RUNWAY FAVORITES

Elizabeth gave us a little outlook of what is coming up for F/W 2021. Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Gabriela Hearst for Chloé are among her favorite collections.

THREE INVESTMENT PIECES YOU SHOULD HAVE IN YOUR CLOSET

Elizabeth and I were asked what would be the must-haves for your closet and we agreed on the following three: A Bottega Veneta bag, a Burberry trenchcoaticon, and a Gabriela Hearst cashmere sweatericon.

In the end of the talk, I showed our guests my personal favorites available at MATCHESFASHION. Those looks will be posted shortly here on Sandra’s Closet. Stay tuned and happy shopping.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and © MATCHESFASHION
Courtesy of the respective brands
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.icon

Tribute to Alber Elbaz and AZ Factory

I am still so in shock. One of my favorite designers, especially because of his amazing character, Alber Elbaz, died Saturday in Paris from Covid-19. He was such a warm-hearted person, always thinking about his employees. Instantly recognisable for his broad smile and distinctive personal uniform of bow ties and thick-rimmed glasses, he was best known for his star turn leading couture house Lanvin. At their peak, sales were as high as €235 million. He definitely died too young, in June he would have turned 60.

Born in Morocco and educated in Israel, Elbaz climbed the ranks of the fashion industry from a small dressmaker’s shop in New York City to serve at the helm of Guy Laroche. Then appointed by Pierre Bergé, Elbaz next worked as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent from 1998 until he was fired after three seasons when Gucci bought the company and put Tom Ford in charge.

Designer Alber Elbaz walks down the runway at the S/S 2004 Lanvin show in Paris.

Elbaz began designing for Lanvin in 2001. He also held a minority stake in the company of nearly 18 percent. During his 14-year tenure, he was credited with the house’s renewed appeal thanks to Elbaz’s «classic with a twist» takes on silk cocktail dresses and other feminine designs, often playing with color or other unusual variations on hallmark elegance.

Alber’s sketches for Lanvin

His humorous sketches of everything from lollipops to his own face became a brand signature, also remember the amazing collaboration he did with Lancôme. Elbaz’s simple, feminine clothing, which has been compared to Lanvin’s 1920s outfits, was lauded by the fashion press. In 2005 Suzy Menkes wrote: «Elbaz is every woman’s darling. And that includes Nicole, Kate, Chloë Sevigny, Sofia Coppola and a slew of rising movie names

In October 2015, Elbaz announced that he had been let go from Lanvin after disagreements with the company’s major shareholder, Shaw-Lan Wang. He then took some time off until he launched a new label together with Swiss luxury group Richemont, AZ Factory, in January.

A tribute to Alber today on the AZ Factory homepage.

The following text has been written months ago but sometimes time flies and I always postponed to post it. It feels so bizarre to show it to you now post mortem. However, it is a tribute to Alber, to his latest venture in fashion, that hopefully will also have a great input how the world consumes fashion. It is all about inclusivity and diversity. I invite you to get your last piece designed by Alber…

In a Zoom call with Alber in January…

So let me introduce you to AZ Factory, the eagerly awaited fashion concept from Alber Elbaz. Launched at Paris Haute Couture Week in January, it had not only marked the comeback of Elbaz but also Richemont’s first foray into launching a fashion label from scratch, a €25 million investment, that is focusing on online distribution.

Described as Elbaz’ «dream factory» and created with «women of our times» in mind, the label is an expansion of the playful, confident pieces that have become his calling card through the years. This is a marvellous fashion moment! Neither a revolution nor an evolution but a refreshing reset! AZ Factory might change the face of luxury fashion as long as we’ve known it and Alber Elbaz might have become the new «Hervé Leger». Over the next few months a six part capsule collection will be launching.

Alber wanted to design for «All Women».

And one of the most exciting elements surrounding this new brand is the diversity in its sizing, with an emphasis placed on the fact that this entire six capsule series is inclusive for «All Women placing importance on body positivity and inclusivity. Sizing ranges from XXS-4XL or FR34 – FR48.

MyBody ribbed stretch-knit mini dressicon and MyBody paneled stretch-knit leggingsicon

MyBody
The essence of the MyBody capsule is bodycon styles made from a technical weave fabric that sculpt the female form. The AnatoKnit technology provides hugging tension that shapes your natural curves. The boning at the back supports your posture and the ergonomic design features allow for movement and breathability. The idea behind this is functional fashion that has been made for «women on the move» and Alber wanted to encourage us to wear these with their sneakers. I think they’d look perfectly splendid with heels too.

Your Body color-block ribbed stretch-knit mini dressicon and Your Body striped stretch-knit leggingsicon

MyBody 2.0
The sporty edition of MY BODY. This additional story features colourblock designs paired with matching leggings. It’s the next level of athleisure.

Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill shirticon and Pijama Valentine printed silk-twill wide-leg pantsicon

Switchwear Pyjamas
Uplifting printed silk pyjamas are equally suited for sleep or for styling your look day or night. Made in collaboration with several artists and designers, which Alber found on Instagram due to the pandemic, these touching visuals reflect the emotions of our times and the wish to spread messages of hope, love and togetherness.

Switchwear recycled duchesse-satin maxi skirt
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Switchwear
From bed, Zoom, to yoga, to the supermarket, to couch, to date night – Switchwear takes you from cozy to couture (and back!) in under 60 seconds. Upgrade your supremely soft Switchwear Prime-layers with the iridescent, satin-like Switchwear Duchesse Add Ons.

Neoprene and mesh sneakers
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Pointy Sneakers
Hybrid footwear that combines the comfort and function of a sneaker with the elongating benefits of a pointy-toe shoes. Performance sneaker construction so you don’t have to trade off all-day comfort and stability.

In light of this, I was invited by Alber Elbaz and NET-A-PORTER to a live launch celebration for AZ Factory in the end of January. I also received a spectacle in a box to open during the event that included sweets, a puzzle, ….

Alber is such a sweet human being. He told us that he started his new venture by thinking: «How can I hug women? Who’s my customer? Is she an architect, who’s her mother, does she have kids?» He went on: «I wanted to create something for all of them. I never had one muse. I have never understood how to design for only one woman. It is the variety that counts. The world doesn’t exist of one song, one book or just one woman. Life is not black and white. I wanted to find something in the middle without being mediocre. I thought due to my own body shape that you have to hide who you are if you are a plus size. And the tiny women are sent to the children’s department. I wanted to change that. I also created the long zip opener so that women are not dependent on a man to open their dress. My sneakers are hybrid footwear, pointed like pumps to elongate the legs with all-day comfort. SwitchWear plays a key role for me. For example you wear leggings for travel and once you arrive, you just put a skirt over it. It’s modular dressing and also includes pyjamas. It is comfort, technology and a couture dream in one

Creativity? «The moment I feel and don’t be asked…» Az Lazy, Az Crazy

Thank you, Alber, for your creativity, your positivity and for making us dream… you will never be forgotten!

TO SHOP AZ FACTORY, CLICK HERE PLEASEicon.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © AZ Factory, Net-à-Porter, © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.