Sandra‘s Closet

As guest of Louis Vuitton, I was transported on a magical journey with the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express from Paris to Vienna. This palace on wheels is an outstanding experience that I cannot wait to fully share with you. Lets’ get started with my outfit and the first impressions when my voyage began on the platform of the famed Gare de L’Est in Paris. There the historic carriages awaited my arrival from Palais Royale, before stepping aboard a world of timeless glamour.

My look: Wool coat with blue shearling embellishments (Pre-fall 2011), oversized zip side-tie dress (Runway S/S 2023), black stretch body with zipper (2021), grey felt hat with fur embellishment (Runway F/W 2012), velvet lace-up cancan boots with patent leather ruffle detail (Runway F/W 2009), custom-made Sac Louis (2010), Pochette Métis in Monogram leather, yellow gold and diamond nameplate necklace (2007), and vintage Pégase trolley, all by Louis Vuitton.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / Claire Guillon (@claireguillon)
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Prada is to open Prada Caffè at Harrods in London, a space designed to add a new dimension to the brand and offer customers a unique and engaging experience. The environment revisits Prada’s visual hallmarks, with every choice – from the decor and menu to the tableware and atmosphere – reflecting the brand’s language, approach and distinctive way of viewing the world.

Inside, the walls, ceilings and velvet-upholstered sofas and armchairs are delicately coloured with the brand’s iconic green. The floors reproduce the black-and-white chequered floor of the historic Prada boutique on Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, while the floral bas-reliefs on the walls evoke some of Prada’s flagship stores across the world.

The tableware is original and exclusive, selected by Prada to match the surroundings and ranging from pale-blue Japanese porcelain with a contrasting double black line, inspired by ancient Celadon pottery – tea and coffee cups with lids, teapots, plates and trays – to blown-glass crystal glassware, including the Triangle series with its quintessentially Prada triangular pattern.

The range of food and drink on offer covers the entire day, from breakfast to evening cocktails, and provides a subtle, modern take on Italian tradition, with sandwiches and risotto sitting alongside buffalo mozzarella and salmon and crab dishes and spritz – and negroni-based aperitifs complementing the list of signature cocktails. The wine list spans the whole of Italy, with bottles from Sicily to Piedmont.

Pastries play a central role, displayed both on the spectacular central counter and the wall behind: the selection of fine patisserie products pairs expert craftsmanship with modern techniques and classic ingredients with more contemporary flavours and aromas.

Prada Caffè will be open from 31 March 2023 to 7 January 2024, from 9 AM to 9 PM Monday to Saturday and from 12 PM to 6 PM on Sunday, with an entrance on Hans Road. It will soon be joined by an outdoor stall, which will offer Londoners a delicious range of ice creams.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Prada
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Welcome to the second drop of the Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama collaboration.

When does fashion go beyond fashion? Maybe when it’s made with eternity and infinity in mind. In the project’s collections an idea of proliferation is paramount. The cascading motifs, their qualities, and the notion of infinity mirrored in the collections’ expansiveness, sweeping up the iconic pieces of the Maison and transforming them along the way, both reflects Kusama’s process and themes while testing and furthering the limits of Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire. And it is perhaps in the apotheosis of handcraft that the idea of the eternal exists for both Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama.

At the same time, there is a notion of how the infinite can translate, of how it can reach people, and be made to function in the everyday, of how it touches people and transforms them. These are clothes and accessories after all, and it is a joyful participation through wearing them that is always sought – this is something Kusama is no stranger to in her art and Louis Vuitton understands through craft.

Encompassing both the universes of women and men through ready-to-wear, bags, shoes, accessories, luggage and trunks and fragrances, Drop 2 of this artistic collaboration explores in even greater breadth the graphic and joyful motifs and motivations of Yayoi Kusama. From PUMKINS to FLOWERS, FACES to INFINITY DOTS and NETS, these latest creations will be available in Louis Vuitton stores starting 31st March 2023.

PUMPKINS

It is perhaps the PUMPKINS that takes joyful, centre stage for Drop 2 of this collection. One of the most meaningful and comforting motifs for the artist, the Pumpkin speaks to Kusama – quite literally at times. PUMPKINS have been part of Kusama’s hallucinatory world since being a child, are one of her long-standing themes and occupy a talismanic place in her art. As she says in her autobiography Infinity Net, «I was enchanted by their charming and winsome form. What appealed to me most was the pumpkin’s generous unpretentiousness. That and its solid spiritual balance.»

In the PUMPKINS collection, women’s leather goods take on the startling form of squash at times. In a nod to the original 2012 collection Pumpkin Minaudiere, the present project’s leather Pumpkin Bag, appearing in yellow & black and silver & multicoloured variations takes on the vegetable’s winsome form and marry it to the LV Monogram in a feat of advanced maroquinerie. In more conventional Monogram offerings, the traditional supple canvas and iconic shapes of the House, such as the OnTheGo, Neverfull and Speedy, are the site for large-scale ‘pumpkin portraits’ aligned and overlapping at the base of the bags.

This approach continues in the hard-sided luggage, namely the iconic Louis Vuitton trunks. In the men’s leather goods, the same approach is utilised in an alternate blue colour scheme and grounded on the dark, Monogram canvas Eclipse. Here, the Weekend Tote, Trio Messenger and Keepalls draw focus.

In men’s ready-to-wear, it is an abstraction of form and pattern that is the emphasis in exacting jacquards and denim discharge prints in workwear and technical silhouettes. Graphic playfulness with gradations of saturated teals, turquoise and blues, form the sinuous lines of the Pumpkin in a technical, casual blouson and cargo shorts. While a zipped denim workwear jacket and trousers echo the same themes through expert discharge prints that are the height of denim savoir-faire. Denim accessories, such as the Bucket Hat and Baseball Cap, further explore this abstraction.

While jewellery and eyewear are concentrated on luminous colour saturation. A wool stole encapsulates all the qualities of Kusama’s PUMPKINS perfectly while L’Immensité fragrance is also engaged in the artist’s pumpkin realm.

FLOWERS

The next wave of the project further utilises Kusama’s psychedelic take on FLOWERS. Growing up in rural Japan, Kusama’s parents ran seed nurseries on vast tracts of land and in hothouses; the FLOWERS became part of the vivid childhood visual and aural hallucinations that Kusama documented through drawing, easing the shock and fear of the episodes. As the artist states in Infinity Net: ‘That is the origin of my pictures.’

Utilising Kusama’s FLOWERS painting from 2004, the collection focuses on the women’s world. Here, Kusama’s elegant hyper-florals are translated through the height of savoir-faire as delicate embroideries, leather intarsias and intricate prints on clothing; entwining as placement prints on the legs of gabardine trousers, wrapped dresses and skirts and used as an intricately worked intarsia flourish on leather gilets and bustiers. These techniques are echoed in the precise marquetry of leather goods, such as on the Capucines and Monogram Empreinte OnTheGo and Speedy bags. The FLOWERS are also simply and chicly printed on silk foulards and replicated on the bottles and travelling cases of Spell on You.

FACES

Alongside flora, there is also Kusama’s hallucinogenic fauna, in the shape of FACES. Joyful stylized FACES from «My Eternal Soul», a series of paintings that the celebrated Japanese artist began in 2009 are extracted from and reconfigured, chosen and changed by Kusama and Louis Vuitton, to become distinct characters in the collection. Appearing throughout the women’s and men’s worlds, her joyful creations cascade over clothing and accessories through a combination of hyper-printing and intense embroideries, often on a ground of luminous Delphinium Blue – a new signature colour for Louis Vuitton – or enveloping the Maison’s iconic Monogram.

A certain casual insouciance is found in the clothing of the collection, in part because of the use of denim for women. Here, a light blue stonewash is utilised and features a complex, engineered printing process over jeans, jackets and bustiers. A take on varsity jackets appears for both women and men, with Kusama’s FACES taking the place of the more traditional ‘letterman’ embroideries. For women, luxurious double wool & cashmere is combined with leather shoulder protection in black. While for men, a Delphinium blue wool with contrast white leather sleeves is utilised. For women, ultra-bright repeat prints on sharp white gabardine skirts and shifts are contrasted with repeat-printed fluid silk pyjama suits. While a more focused concentration on individual character FACES is found in comfortable cotton jersey pieces.

A sense of ease essentially prevails for men in silhouette, at the same time there is an intensity in savoir-faire as much of the men’s collection features embroidered FACES; from a technical casual blouson and cargo shorts to the intarsia fleece jacket, a level of skill is applied that elevates the everyday. The Monogram is joyfully interrupted once more in men’s clothing; a technical teal shirt and shorts is made from a new jacquard that marries the Monogram to Kusama’s chaotic characters.

While in women’s leather goods, the iconic Monogram canvas is disrupted by a riot of FACES, with a focus on one of the four (nameless) main characters in a combination of rich printing and distinct embroidery on the Neverfull, OnTheGo, Speedy and Alma. The combination of chicness and chaos continues with the FACES printed and embroidered on the men’s Taurillon leather Monogram bags, all appearing in the new signature blue. A Multi-Pocket Back Pack, the Bum Bag, the Hobo Cruiser and Keepall are just a few of the new, FACES incarnations. While reversible Bucket Hats, Bandanas and Beach Towels also find a proliferation of characters on them in the new signature blue.

Meanwhile, the women’s white leather Capucines also succumbs to the FACES; as do blue foulards and the fragrance, Attrape-Réves. The FACES finally finish their journey on footwear; from embroideries on the women’s Lous Open Back Sneakers, and Monogram Pool Flats to prints on white and black men’s LV Trainers.

INFINITY DOTS (PART 2)

The second wave of the INFINITY DOTS collection is found across categories and genders once more. Here, additional colourways include black & fuchsia, sky blue & white and white & red. Printed gabardine and 3D knits provide style and structure in signature women’s silhouettes realised in black & fuchsia. While black & fuchsia dots also find form in Monogram Empreinte women’s leather goods, such as the OnTheGo, Neverfull and Pochette Metis.

Monogram Empreinte also provides a medium for the sky blue & white colourway, particularly for styles such as the Speedy 20 and Nano Noe. Meanwhile, Epi leather structures white & red dots for House icons such as the Twist and Neonoe.

Additional ‘accessories’ can also be found in these colourways: from black & fuchsia reversible bucket hats and silk foulards, via sky blue & white dotted baseball caps to white & red INFINITY DOTS surfboards! For men, the collection mainly finds form through footwear: from grained calf moccasins and sandals to the latest LV Trainer drops in sky blue & white and yellow & white.

INFINITY NET

Kusama’s mesmeric and vast INFINITY NET paintings first brought her to prominence in the New York art world of 1959. Beguiling viewers with their repetitive, obsessive, rhythmic hand, the series of paintings she completed then are amongst the most sought-after of her works now.

In the INFINITY NET collection, it is both the delicacy and strength of these works that are quietly celebrated and utilised. Using the blue-black ground and white details of the original composition, an INFINITY piece is translated into a print on Taurillon leather, enveloping the entire Capucines bag. An alternate, contemporary fuchsia iteration is also printed on the Capucines.

Drop 2 of Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama‘s collaboration will once again be celebrated within a globally immersive visual landscape, ranging from window displays, to Pop-ups, to anamorphic billboards, and an advertising campaign featuring some familiar Ambassadors and friends of the House.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton and YAYOI KUSAMA, 2022 COPYRIGHT OF YAYOI KUSAMA PHOTO BY YUSUKE MIYAZAKI – Yayoi Kusama Museum
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HENNESSY X.O UNVEILS MASTERPIECE COLLABORATION WITH KIM JONES

In a first for the Maison, the acclaimed fashion designer transcends couture and cognac in a special collection featuring a collectible sneaker, Masterpiece decanter, and Limited Edition bottle.

Hennessy is pleased to announce a collaboration with the world-renowned British Artistic Director Kim Jones. In an audacious meeting of two icons, the Hennessy X.O x Kim Jones collection bridges street and luxury in a unique celebration of the legendary blend’s impact on culture. Interweaving the richness of Hennessy X.O’s 150-year heritage with Kim Jones’ creative vision, the collaboration features the Hennessy X.O Masterpiece designed by Kim Jones, the Hennessy X.O Limited Edition bottle by Kim Jones, and in a first for the brand, the HNY Low by Kim Jones. This also marks the first time Maison Hennessy has partnered with a fashion designer, and that Kim Jones collaborates with a spirits brand.

HNY Low by Kim Jones

«We are thrilled to embark on a new odyssey blending cognac-making and couture with Kim Jones, a creative master of our time,» said Laurent Boillot, Hennessy CEO. «Inspired by the emblematic personality of Hennessy X.O, Kim has developed a resolutely contemporary collection that is destined to make an impact on culture today and in the future.»

For Hennessy X.O, Kim Jones pays tribute to cognac-making and couture, two processes that touch on an understanding of science and the natural world as well as artisanal craftsmanship and savoir-faire. He follows in the footsteps of a formidable lineage of great masters who have helped cement Hennessy X.O’s cultural resonance over the years, including Frank Gehry, Cai Guo-Qiang and Ridley Scott.

«I’m fascinated by the rich heritage of Hennessy, a household name behind which artisans have spent hundreds of years creating this special cognac,» says Kim Jones. «Storytelling is very important for me regardless of what I’m designing or who I’m collaborating with – I want my designs to educate and inspire people through the stories they tell.»

WHERE COGNAC MEETS COUTURE: THE HENNESSY X.O MASTERPIECE AND HENNESSY X.O
LIMITED EDITION DESIGNED BY KIM JONES

Designed exclusively for Hennessy by Kim Jones, produced using 3D printing technology, and finished by hand, the sculptural Hennessy X.O Masterpiece has been produced in a limited edition of just 200 examples. The decanter demonstrates how humanity and technology can work together to create something unique, «like a piece of bespoke couture for a bottle,» the designer notes.

The Hennessy X.O Masterpiece

The Hennessy X.O Masterpiece draws inspiration from the making of Hennessy X.O, an art perfected by eight generations of Master Blenders. A specially developed titanium casing entirely encapsulates the bottle like an architectural second skin. Its twisting folds evoke both the couture technique of draping and the way in which, at the turn of the 20th century, Hennessy bottles were carefully hand-enveloped in tissue paper as a way of protecting their fragile parchment paper labels. Its base, an undulating oak plateau, nods to the barrels used to age eaux-de-vie that would eventually be blended to create Hennessy X.O.

While the bottle is entirely obscured from view, the cognac can be extracted using the fusil designed by Kim Jones, an elegant and playful ritual to serve a glass of the Hennessy X.O blend. As a finishing touch, the decanter itself has been dipped in gradient colors, an effect inspired by the shades of the different eaux-de-vie selected by the Master Blender to compose Hennessy X.O.

Says Kim Jones: «When I saw how the vintage Hennessy bottles were wrapped, it spoke volumes to me about how precious each one is, and how they were handled. I was particularly touched by their history, and the sense of how generations have dedicated their time to making each step of the process better and better. That same process also holds true with fashion.»

The Hennessy X.O Limited Edition

The third element of the collaboration is the Hennessy X.O Limited Edition ‘ready-to-wear’ version of the decanter specially imagined by Kim Jones. The Hennessy X.O bottle is encased in an aluminum second skin, its structure showcasing the signature shape of the bottle while evoking a couture silhouette. A true representation of the merger of fashion and culture with excellence and legacy, the limited edition bottle is the final piece of the Hennessy X.O x Kim Jones partnership.

The Hennessy X.O Limited Edition by Kim Jones is available exclusively at Globus for CHF 241.50 now.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Hennessy
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It is the butterfly effect! It is the idea that something small, like carrying a stunning bag, such as my new must-have piece by Marina Raphael, can have much larger effects, such as meeting new people, and boosting your aura as you are feeling absolutely fantastic. Depending on the notion that the world is deeply interconnected, such that one small occurrence can influence a much larger complex system, you should never underestimate the power of a great outfit.

My look: White cotton tank top with triangle logo, grey embroidered cloth and mesh midi-skirt, logo-plaque leather Mary Jane pumps, and vintage crystal earrings, all by Prada, matelassé denim jacket by CHANEL (Pre-collection F/W 2022), and crystal-embellished Micro Riviera Diamond bag in black suede by Marina Raphael.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht / David Biedert Photography
The photos were taken at Dolder Grand in Zurich.
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Next week, the 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders, the famous watch fair, will be taking place in Geneva. From March 27 to April 2, 2023, the 48 exhibiting Maisons will present their watch novelties and iconic models.

Arriving at last year’s fair.

While the first days will be dedicated to professionals, great news is that the Salon will open its doors to the public for the first time on Saturday 1 and Sunday 2 April, 2023. On top of that, the Salon will also take over the streets of Geneva with a special «In the City» program open to all to celebrate watchmaking together.

My favorite booth last year: Van Cleef & Arpels

More than just a trade show, Watches and Wonders Geneva is a passionate experience to be enjoyed in person. It is also a place where you can listen to and learn from the professionals. An extensive program has been specially designed for the weekend with conferences, guided tours and exhibitions. Connoisseurs, enthusiasts and those who are simply curious will be able to discover the marvels of the 48 exhibiting Maisons, from the greatest historical watchmakers to independent workshops and artisans. From exceptional pieces and new collections to skilled craftsmanship, there will be something to satisfy every curious mind.

At the Piaget booth in 2022.

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

TICKETS are CHF 70 per person and can be obtained through the ONLINE TICKETING at watchesandwonders.com.
Here you will also find more information about the weekend.

In parallel, for the first time, Watches and Wonders will also be present in the heart of its host city. This festival of watchmaking, called «In the City», will be free and open to everyone. Visitors can therefore wander freely through the Rues Basses of the city center and spot the WandW display columns. This will be the sign that the boutiques have surprises in store: including historical pieces, demonstration workshops, a chance to chat with the watchmakers, a preview of new pieces, etc. To add spice to the experience, an interactive watch rally has been organized especially for the occasion. Using the QR codes scattered along a route, the public will be able to discover the participating boutiques and emblematic sites.

When the sun goes down, «In the City» will continue to beat in the heart of Geneva: on March 30, all the participating boutiques will stay open until 9pm, while a special program has been created for this evening of festivities. Artists, dancers and musicians will take over five stages along the streets, beginning at 5pm. At the Pont de la Machine, a conference on «Geneva, Switzerland and Watchmaking» will be open to all who register. A collection of food trucks will be stationed at the city’s main crossroads with one objective: get ready for a free concert from the celebrated DJ/Producer The Avener at Quai du Général Guisan, at 8pm.

DJ/Producer The Avener

The heart of Geneva will be beating to the rhythm of watch movements from March 27 to April 2, 2023. The wonder of watchmaking is within everyone’s reach!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Watches & Wonders, © Sandra Bauknecht
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It is the end of an era! After 10 years, Jeremy Scott is leaving his role as creative director of Moschino. The Kansas City-native, 47, has been at the helm of the Italian luxury brand since 2013, carrying on the important legacy Franco Moschino left behind. Scott reignited the late designer’s tongue-in-cheek, humorous take on high fashion with his fantastical collections that I have been a huge fan of since decades!

Jeremy Scott’s first collection for Moschino was F/W 2014 (click here, to see the outfit post).

His first collection was for F/W 2014. It launched a thousand debates on the role of fashion in the annals of art, consumerism, and social commentary. Scott has penned a fundamental chapter in the legacy of the brand with his fearless and show stopping pop-camp style and incisive humor – true to the renowned codes of the House.

With Massimo Ferretti last month at the Moschino F/W 2023 show.

«I am fortunate to have had the opportunity of working with the creative force that is Jeremy Scott,» said Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s parent company Aeffe in the official statement. «I would like to thank him for his 10 years of commitment to Franco Moschino’s legacy house and for ushering in a distinct and joyful vision that will forever be a part of Moschino history.»

With Jeremy backstage at his last show for Moschino in February.

Jeremy Scott said: «These past 10 years at Moschino have been a wonderful celebration of creativity and imagination. I am so proud of the legacy I am leaving behind. I would like to thank Massimo Ferretti for the honor of leading this iconic house. I would also like to thank all my fans around the world who celebrated me, my collections, and my vision for without you none of this would have been possible.»

I am really sad seeing Jeremy leave Moschino. I have been such a huge fan of his work and can only wish him the best. Thank you for all these dreams you have created for me.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Moschino, © Sandra Bauknecht / Nadia Krawiecka
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From New York to London, Milan and Paris, in this post I round up the biggest trends of the summer season. Color is very important, worn in a mostly monochrome way, from shades of beige, to magenta, red, lilac and baby blue. For the more daring, neon hues and cutouts are leading the way.

Cargo pants, biker jackets and fringes are absolute must-haves! Enjoy those beautiful collections.

LoL, Sandra

If you buy one thing for spring, make it a pair of multi-pocketed cargo pants. From their origins in the British army in the late 1930s to today, cargo pants have not aged a bit. This season they are elevated to fashion essentials.

Flannel shirts are an object of desire courtesy of Bottega Veneta and Dr Martens are still holding strong. Enjoy this ’90s grunge.

Denim takes up the Y2K mantle for spring, which means waistlines are down, bellies are exposed, and knee-high boots haven’t been spared either. Begin by reacquainting yourself with Alexander McQueen’s Bumsters, first debuted as part of his Taxi Driver collection for F/W 1993.

Fluorescent shades of blue, green and yellow boosted the summery allure of the silhouettes, which came with a futuristic aesthetic at Balenciaga or Miu Miu.

The baby blues, a soft chromatic mood tinted the second skin silhouettes, which were resolutely fluid and innocent.

For seasons on end, pops of purple have given way to sweeping, head-to-toe lilac looks. You better get used to it!

Magenta is the Pantone Color of the Year 2023, so no wonder shades of red are all over the runways. But it is nothing for the shy, the trend expects you to sport the vibrant shade head-to-toe. My favorite? Ferragamo’s all over sparkles.

The monochromatic silhouette came only in shades of beige. Miu Miu, Max Mara and Dior case fashion staples rather than statement pieces, daring to layer up classic basics in varying hues.

Blending craftsmanship and ’70s charm, crochet remains a failsafe option for summer.

The latest take on fringing is a far cry from its bohemian aesthetic, with the detail adorning even the most sophisticated pieces in your wardrobe.

Hints of fringing feathers and glitter details are bringing back the Roaring Twenties! However the ’20s glamour got a minimalist makeover, without compromising on elegance.

Let’s ride! From the street to the runway, the biker trend is showing no sign of slowing down.

Literal interpretations of the gothic style were replaced by a soft grunge talk on the aesthetic. Black dominates the goth girl look. Complete the vibe by playing on volume and transparency.

Transparency create a silhouette that is sexier than ever. The must-have black dresses of the season hinted at glimpses at several designers.

In what was an ingenious display of creativity, fashion played with optical illusions, unveiling troupe-l’oeil pieces that transformed the ordinary into the extraordinary.

Whether with a new twist on a bouquet or with lifelike tropical flowers, designers transformed simple garments into blossoming works of art.

Living out our costume-drama dreams has never been so easy, thanks to the return of 16th-century farthingales, 17th-century panniers and 19th-century crinolines.

Hoods are the strangely sexy accessory taking over the summer runways. Totally reminiscent of the most renowned Alaïa muse, Grace Jones, who triumphed this look in the ’80s.

Cutouts have moved to a very daring spot. Nothing for the shy…

As the world gets more inclusive, fashion is a welcome way to express your current mood. That means you can dress up as much as you like to get all the attention. References from previous decades are a welcome source of inspiration. Even the poodle skirt is back!

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

Ladies, are you ready for a high-watchmaking novelty. Meet the other side of sweetness as Louis Vuitton demonstrates its advanced mastery in horological automata with a new feminine timepiece.
Introducing the first in-house self-winding automaton movement, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is a distillation of high-watchmaking savoir-faire, enacted by Louis Vuitton’s specialist movement workshop La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. Under the candy-bright hues and alluring textures of an engraved grand feu enamel dial, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata bears a movement of formidable ingenuity and pin-sharp precision. The aesthetic of Louis Vuitton’s latest creation hides a piercing intellect, reminding us that nulla rosa sine spini; there is no rose without its thorn.

A Mechanism In Full Bloom
High watchmaking at Louis Vuitton flowered at the beginning of the 21st century, leading up to the creation of a small handful of bespoke automaton timepieces
for special clients. In 2021, the Maison communicated about this side of the brand’s in-house watchmaking expertise for the first time. Louis Vuitton’s next stride in the realm of automaton timepieces continues to explore the theme of blended passion and savoir-faire.

The motif of a rose and its entwined thorny vines has been taken further than the Maison initially broached in the enamel-dial Escale Spin Time Only Watch (2019). Motion and dynamism define the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, but even more provocative is the revelation that lies beneath the lush petals and glossy heart of its dial, the first in-house enamel dial from Louis Vuitton. At the push of a button at the 8 o’clock position, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata blooms under the touch of its wearer, in a lush profusion of dial animations.

Beware Of Thorns
Time can be dangerous, according to the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, where the hours and minutes are told by thorn-armoured hands on a subdial encircled by inward-facing briars. Those who take time for granted, or let their attention wander, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata seems to say, may soon find themselves in a prickly situation. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides the rhythmic pulse of the watch, marking out the seconds over the course of its one- minute rotation.
At 9 o’clock, a flaming heart, symbol of piety, is emblazoned with the word «SWEET» and crowned with a golden circlet of Louis Vuitton Monogram flowers. A hidden power throbs within the heart, revealed when the pusher at 8 o’clock, set with adamantine gems, is actuated.

Around the hours-and-minutes subdial, an external halo of thorns emerges and extends radially outwards. The enamel roses (one at 12 o’clock and another
at 4 o’clock) are not the demure botanicals they first appeared to be; they have found new vitality, with spinning Monogram flowers at their centers, diamond pistils firing rays of refracted light. The blazing heart roars to life, its flames dancing as if fanned by an invisible gale. The heart cracks open, a jagged fissure revealing that the soothing legend engraved on the heart now comes with a bold caveat: «SWEET BUT FIERCE».

A World Of Mechanical Expression
If knowledge is power, then knowledge (or know-how) that only you have becomes the most powerful thing of all. The unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in innovative horological automata is expressed in one of the most mechanically impressive creations of the Maison to date: the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata. Five separate dial elements form the automaton array of the watch, leaping simultaneously into action when the pusher at 8 o’clock is actuated. The radially extruding thorns surrounding the outer circumference of the hours-and- minutes subdial. The two Monogram flowers at the center of the enamel roses at 4 and 12 o’clock rotate simultaneously. One starts its course clockwise while the other moves in the opposite direction. After a short pause, the two flowers perform the opposite dance. The articulated heart that cracks open to reveal the full message «SWEET BUT FIERCE». Lastly, the gold tongues of fire at the top of the heart that undulate in simulation of real flames.

This unprecedented display of horological virtuosity is the result of three years of research and development within Louis Vuitton’s high-watchmaking atelier. Subtle signs in the movement design and finish indicate that the calibre LFT 325 has been constructed expressly for the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata — a dedicated movement being a time-honoured indication of horological prestige. The micro-blasted movement bridges are decorated with thorny rose stems in pink-gold, sinuously embracing the exposed wheels visible through openworked sections. The 18K pink-gold rotor is also engraved and openworked with Monogram Flowers, as is the automaton regulator bridge at 12 o’clock. The history of the dial continues, sculpting the shapes of the movement. The dance
of colors and the seductive play of textures continue, requiring long hours of research and development to achieve the softness of the gray contrasting with the brilliance of the pink gold. The search for colors, the work on materials and the attention to detail testify to the precision and extreme meticulousness necessary to achieve such a level of finish.

The flying tourbillon frequently makes an appearance in the fine-watchmaking segment of Louis Vuitton timepieces, but the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata
is the first time this mechanism has been combined with a self-winding movement with dial-side automata. As the automaton is driven by its own dedicated mainspring, the flying tourbillon is able to maintain high levels of chronometric performance throughout the 65 hours of movement power reserve. The challenge of synchronising the dial animations of the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata has been answered by the cumulative expertise and experience of the movement development team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, led by master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. While the dial springs into action as if by magic, a glimpse behind the curtain is afforded by the open caseback.

In the upper right quadrant of the movement, an openworked bridge allows a tantalising view of the automaton mainspring, driving wheels and regulator. This complex assembly feeds energy to the seven dial automata, coordinates their running times and also controls the speed at which they operate. On the dial, each graceful motion of the automata, from the opening of the heart and revelation of the secret message, to the spinning Monogram Flowers, the dancing flames and the emerging thorns, is precisely calibrated to produce a 13-second symphony of mechanical excellence, seen nowhere else in the world except on the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata.

Art, Glass, Fire
The grand feu enamel dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata represents an important step for the Maison in terms of in-house savoir-faire — the integration of a millennia-old artisanal craft. The alchemy of grand feu enamel starts with the powdered silica, finely ground by hand and combined with various metal oxides that impart colour to the final result. After the enamel powder is applied to a prepared surface, it is fired in a kiln at temperatures between 700°C and 1,200°C, vitrifying the enamel. This brings out the intense and durable colours that have made grand feu enamel the decorative technique of choice for timepieces over the centuries.

On the dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, a combination of champlevé and cloisonné enamel is used to illustrate the various aesthetic elements. The former involves removing material from the dial surface, creating a space where enamel powder can be deposited. The latter requires the use of thin gold wires, meticulously shaped by hand and fixed onto the dial surface, creating closed cells which can then be filled with enamel. The art of grand feu enamel requires a delicate touch, years of experience and a highly disciplined — and, indeed, technical — approach. After working with some of the most revered enamel artists today, such as the legendary Anita Porchet, who created the dial of the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time Only Watch, the Maison now counts this rare craft as part of its in- house savoir-faire, under the expert hand of its master enameller.

Beauty emerges, refined and transcendent, from the crucible of horological knowledge and combined expertise at Louis Vuitton. The Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is the multi-layered result of the Maison’s approach to fine watchmaking, now elevated to unprecedented levels in all 169 years of Louis Vuitton history.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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In unveiling the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues its journey through the exclusive world of high watchmaking timepieces with automata. Paying tribute to the Sichuan Opera’s Bian Lian, the virtuoso decoration of this specific watch presents a traditional mask that comes to life and changes expression on demand.

An artistic performance driven by a virtuoso movement entirely conceived, developed, and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
After the Tambour Carpe Diem, which won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021, Louis Vuitton has left Europe and its expressive Vanitas and embarked on a new journey in China, the land of Bian Lian. This «art of changing masks» characteristic of the Sichuan Opera is a major source of inspiration for the Tambour Opera Automata watch.

In the same vein as the Carpe Diem figure that changed expression on demand, the Tambour Opera Automata highlights a remarkable discipline requiring unwavering dexterity. During the opera, the performers can put on up to twenty different masks in a fraction of a second, revealing their wide range of expressions. Each has their own technique for making these painted silk figures appear and disappear with a quick hand gesture or a graceful fanning motion. In the 21st century, very few actors still master the ancient art of Bian Lian.

To transpose this mysterious interplay of faces to a watch case, Louis Vuitton enlisted the help of the greatest contemporary craftsmen. Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps, created this exceptional watch movement, while Anita Porchet, Master Enameller, and Dick Steenman, Master Engraver, decorated the timepiece with virtuoso design.

«We wanted the Tambour Opera Automata to reflect the striking aesthetics and expressive movements of Bian Lian», explains Michel Navas.«This extremely challenging art remains a secret, just as automaton mechanisms require a perfect knowledge of traditional watchmaking skills.»

Originally, jacquemarts were automata designed to strike the hour on church bells. When watchmakers miniaturised them on watches, they became essentially decorative, animating dials with theatrical scenes, while the time was still traditionally marked by classic hands.

Unprecedented expression
With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues – in Asia – the daring journey it initiated in Europe in 2021 by creating of the Tambour Carpe Diem Automata dedicated to the Vanitas. By choosing to celebrate the Sichuan Opera today, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is taking its mastery of contemporary fine watchmaking to the next level. Indeed, this timepiece, which is the subject of several patents, took over two years to develop. As with the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time is only displayed on the dial – by means of a jumping hour and a retrograde minute mechanism – by activating the automaton. This calibre LV 525, totalling 426 components, has a power reserve of 100 hours.

As for the automaton mechanism, its five animations create a unique and unforgettable 16-second watchmaking spectacle, driven by this exceptional calibre with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. When the latch is pushed, the engraved pink gold dragon’s head rises to reveal the jumping hours inscribed on the forehead of the cloisonné enamel Bian Lian, while its tail indicates the retrograde minutes.

The mask’s expression changes dramatically – its eyebrows frown, its eyelid closes over its left eye, and the pupil of its right eye retracts to reveal a pointed Monogram flower. Going from joy to sadness through the movement of its chin, the Bian Lian mask expresses a wide range of emotions. The beauty of the dial and the lively rhythm of this miniature theatre leave the viewer spellbound.

The excellence of craftsmanship
To root this Tambour Opera Automata in the 21st century, Louis Vuitton has combined traditional Chinese symbols with the brand’s emblematic design elements, such as the canvas pattern and the Monogram flowers enamelled on the dial. Reigning supreme, the imperial dragon, a mythical creature associated with ancient Chinese emperors, represents strength, power and nobility.

The fan by its side is a sign of wisdom and authority. As for the clouds, they symbolise good luck, and the gourd in the shape of a calabash is believed to protect people from evil spirits. As an ultimate refinement, the Asian unlucky number 4 in the time display is replaced by a four-petalled Monogram flower.

Crafted in white, red and black cloisonné enamel separated with white gold threads, the mask owes its flawless workmanship to the master enameller Anita Porchet. The fan is given remarkable depth through the champlevé enamel technique, which involves removing some material from the surface in order to deposit colour pigments. The enamelling of the dial and crown took over seven days to complete.

Crafted over a period of nearly two weeks by the famous Swiss engraver Dick Steenman, the details engraved in the precious metal give the Tambour Opera Automata an unparalleled level of relief. The pink-gold dragon displays its expressive character in the smallest of details (piercing ruby eyes, engraved and sandblasted scales, etc.). So much so that it appears to literally leap out of the Bian Lian’s mask to reveal, open-mouthed, the time display.

The push button of the automaton depicting a dragon’s head, as well as the winding crown and adorned with a champlevé enamel fan, are entirely hand-made. Finally, pushing sophistication and technicality to the extreme, Louis Vuitton has reproduced the shape of the Chinese mask on the back of the movement, contrasting a shot blasted finish with a perfect mirror polish, without the slightest flaw.

With the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton has amplified the technical complexity of the automaton watch with a bold, powerful and contemporary aesthetic. Personally speaking, diving into the craftsmanship behind this beautiful watch, I feel so much appreciation for the work that went into every little detail. A choice for the dedicated watch connoisseur.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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