Sandra‘s Closet

Today was a big day! The last day of Paris Fashion Week started with the Louis Vuitton S/S 2014 show. Rumors had been out quite a long time about Marc Jacobs leaving the French brand after 16 years, but the minute I arrived at the venue, I knew, it was true. It felt like a journey through time. From the governess girls at the entrance to the station clock, the carrousel, the elevators and the escalators, the fountain, last season’s hotel corridors, every little detail was reminiscent of something amazing Marc had created for a Louis Vuitton show.

In the press kit on my seat, Marc Jacobs wrote something so beautiful that I truly would like to invite you to read it:

“This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in every one of them, Emmanuelle Alt, Jane Birkin, Betty Catroux, Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Coco Chanel, Cher, Grace Coddington, Sofia Coppola, Victoire de Castellane, Catherine Deneuve, Claude Lalanne, Julie de Libran, Lady Gaga, Judy Garland, Katie Grand, Juliette Gréco, Françoise Hardy, Zizi Jeanmarie, Rei Kawakubo, Madonna, Liza Minnelli, Kate Moss, Louise Nevelson, Edith Piaf, Miuccia Prada, Lee Radziwill, Millicent Rogers, Sonia Rykiel, Carla Sozzani, Elsa Schiaparelli, Barbra Streisand, Diana Vreeland, Vivienne Westwood, Anna Wintour.

Whether extrovert or esoteric, they are figures that keep visual language vital. Their style, imagination, creativity, talent, vision and voice have changed our landscape.”

He continued: “When I look around Paris, it isn’t the depth of the city that takes my breath away. It’s the decoration and the applied ornamentation that dazzles. It is not about thinking, it is about feeling. There may be no deeper sensation than this when it hits. While designing this collection the same instinct gathered momentum. I take pleasure from things for exactly what they are, revealing in the pure adornment of beauty for beauty’s sake. Connecting with something on a superficial level is as honest as connecting with it on an intellectual level.

TO THE SHOWGIRL IN ALL OF US.“

Speaking of which, many of the forty-one extremely dark looks resembled showgirl clothes, all exquisitely embellished with jet beads, crystals, and glossy feathers. Each and every one of the models wore an amazing headpiece of ostrich plumes designed by Stephen Jones for the show. The first look was pretty evocative, nothing but a G-string and the Stephen Sprouse-designed LV logo showing all over the model’s body, along with handcuffs and chains.

The biker jackets and denim pants were amazing, something you are dying to have in your closet. I love the collection and Marc’s creativity, it might not be commercial, but it is definitely for the showgirl in us!

Never forget, it was Jacobs who brought Louis Vuitton’s foray into prêt-à-porter to a huge success, and whatever the behind-the-scenes speculations of the past few months, he appears to be leaving on good terms. I was backstage and started crying like everybody else after all those heartfelt hugs.

Marc said that he wants to focus on his own Marc Jacobs brand. And I think, the announcement will be coming out soon that Nicolas Ghesquière will replace him at Louis Vuitton. So watch out!

LoL, Sandra

Marc’s last finale…

… and heartbreaking moments backstage.

Having fun behind the scenes: Sofia Coppola and Dakota Fanning

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

It is official, Alexander Wang is Balenciaga‘s new Creative Director and will replace Nicolas Ghesquière at the French fashion house, who officially leaves today, after 15 years at the helm.

Alexander Wang with me

Rumors had been out quite awhile that the American designer  would be the perfect choice for the PPR-owned fashion house Balenciaga, because Wang knows how to make edgy and groovy commercial. Congrats, Alexander, well-deserved! (If you are interested to read an interview, I did with Alexander Wang two years ago, please click here!)

Christopher Kane with me

Another one, editors were considering for the job, was Christopher Kane, who has just left his position at Versus to focus on his own line.

Gianni Versace Spa follows a new strategic repositioning of the Versus brand. Digital is the key word and under Donatella Versace’s creative leadership, there will be collaborations with young designers, stylists, and creatives from different walks of life, to develop capsule collections, co-branding projects, limited editions. Yesterday, the first designer to create a capsule collection for Versus has been announced: Jonathan Anderson, the designer behind the J.W. Anderson fashion label for men and women. The launch event is planned for March/April 2013 in New York.

Bruce Weber, 1996

For the capsule collection, Jonathan Anderson was particularly inspired by an image from a campaign shot by Bruce Weber with Donatella in 1996. “For me,” said Jonathan, “this iconic image says it all, that’s how I see Versus. It’s all about the relationship between a boy and a girl, a girl and a girl, a boy and a boy. Purity.”

The New York Times is reporting rumours that Nicolas Ghesquière‘s next move might be his own label at LVMH. It seems like this time , the designer carrousel is one where everyone turns out to be a winner.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Versus, Style, J.W. Anderson, © Wenn, © Sandra Bauknecht

Today marked the end of an era. Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative director of Balenciaga since 1997, has announced that he will be leaving the company at the end of this month. Abrupt and surprising for the fashion world. Nicolas Ghesquière has been given the label a new lease of life over the last 15 years and is considered one of the most talented designers of his generation.

ABOUT BALENCIAGA
Cristobal Balenciaga presented his first collection in 1937. He opened his doors in Paris, at 10 avenue George V, having an instant success. In 1946, he launched his “tonneau” (barrel-shaped) line, set off with an embroidered bolero. In 1952, the first non-fitted suit. In 1969, the puffball dress…

The years passed and the fashion house forgot the sublime outline invented by its founder. Since his arrival at Balenciaga in 1995, Nicolas Ghesquière has been working to revive the brand. He has invented a style inspired by science fiction. Over the seasons, his designs – a meeting between sensuality and futurism – set the trend.

In 2000, the Gucci Group bought Balenciaga. Consulting the company archives, Nicolas Ghesquière has taken his inspiration from these treasures, reinterpreting them in the ready-to-wear line. He conceived Balenciaga Edition, a collection that draws on original creations from 1930 to 1968. And he has reissued six to eight of these pieces every year. The visionary genius of Cristobal lives once more. Let’s see who will succeed…

Personally speaking, I am even more curious about Ghesquière’s next move!

TO SHOP BALENCIAGA, CLICK HERE!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Balenciaga and via style.com

„Cosmonauts and seventies Formica. Packaging and food boxes. Synthetic foam and plywood. And a kind of rigidity“. That was the inspiration behind the F/W 2010 Balenciaga shoes, said designer Nicolas Ghesquière.

Is this the shoe of the season? One thing is for sure, those striking platforms are the coolest new-age footwear ever, a perfect playful fusion between futuristic and retro chic.
Either you like them or not, but the design and creativity involved is definitely worthy the review. The colour-block, geometric heels are a piece of art, designed by Pierre Hardy for his pal Nicolas Ghesquière.

The F/W 2010 Balenciaga collection was among the most modern ones on the runways with an overall result of an organic carapace and noteworthy colour combinations.
A space Odyssey that would be the perfect “Back-to-School”-look.

Absolutely stunning, a total must, to die for.

LoL, Sandra