Miu Miu Takes You to Saint Malo

Exploration, excitement, a voyage to new territories. Miuccia Prada toys with all the characteristics of a nautical atmosphere – colours, insignias, attitudes – to create a Miu Miu Maritime collection, refracting these archetypal and classic sartorial gestures into unexpected new forms.

Silhouetted against twin expanses of blue – the sky and the sea – the Miu Miu crew of feminine sailors are captured by Johnny Dufort, poised on the concrete ramparts of the Plage de Bon-Secours at Saint Malo – a bathing pool jutting into the sea, man meeting nature. At this point of embarkation, where land meets water, this Miu Miu crew gazes out to the distance in anticipation – of a new beginning, a different season, a different perspective, broadened horizons. As ever, these Miu Miu women are part of a collective, a group – here, they are a fleet, an admiralty, their clothing unifying them, signifying their bond.

The clothes are fresh, spirited, evocative of mariner attire yet exaggerated by the lens of fashion. Traditionally masculine gesturesthe flap collar, wide shoulders, an air of utility – are abstracted to be fused with the inherently feminine, with softly rounded sleeves, lace detailing, ruffles, bows. Created for summer, the fabrics are crisp, light, honest: satin pois, popeline, hard-wearing cotton denim – in marine blue, white, palest pink, officer’s red. This visual language, inextricably tied to nautical attire, can simultaneously speak of other worlds – borrowed for children’s clothing and casual attire of the past, today those details evoke, in the subconscious, youthfulness, vacation, freedom.

Maritime speaks of possibilities – the commencement of a journey. The coastline is not the end of the land, but rather marks the start of something new. A collection of hope to enjoy this summer with hopefully a little bit of normality again …

For F/W 2020, Miuccia Prada already showed maritime influences on the runway. I got these two pieces that I absolutely love to wear.
Left: Sailor-collar lambswool bodysuit
iconRight: Sailor-collar cotton-poplin shirt
icon

If I vetted your appetite for Saint Malo, have a look at the Thermes Marins de Saint Malo. The seaside resort launched their own skin-care line in 2005, that is an alliance of scientific research, naturalness, expertise and modern technology. In Switzerland the products are available at Import Parfumerie. Maritime cosmetics and maritime cosmetics go well together, don’t you think. Beauty, born of the sea…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Miu Miu, © Thermes Marins de Saint Malo
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A New Day at Prada in Milano

Last week, I spend a beautiful day with Prada in Milano during fashion week. The Italian fashion house treated me to many exciting moments. It was definitely the most anticipated show for S/S 2021. Miuccia Prada has teamed up with Raf Simons. Two exceptional talents working together to debut their first collection together meant for me, I was taking part in fashion history.

The show took place virtually in a yellow (one of Raf’s favorite colors) curtained backdrop one day before at the Fondazione Prada. TV screens were hanging from above, filming the whole thing and presenting the names of each model, all of whom had never walked a fashion show before. Everything new at Prada. Or probably not. After the show, Miuccia and Raf sat down to answer questions that fans submitted beforehand. Raf talked about the «Prada-ness», which is for him «a community that has a very specific attitude, intellect, aesthetic. You can’t really answer what it is, but it is, it exists, it’s present, it’s clearly there

Asked about the idea of newness in fashion, Raf Simons stated: «When you work for a long time in the industry, it is important that you are able to refresh your own body of work. I personally feel that the pure definition of new is something we have never seen before.» Miuccia jumped in: «It is nearly impossible. Our presence is done with our past. New, new, new means an incredible revolution, for instant the mini skirt when there was the women’s liberation. You just don’t wake up in the morning and design, you need to do something that makes sense and it comes from society. You have to react to reality and what is happening.»

My favorite 10 looks from the Prada S/S 2021 runway

When I watched the show in the live stream, I was not immediately blown away. Personally speaking, being a huge Prada fan since almost 30 years, many collections had to grown on me. Once you explore the details, the meaning, the hidden intellect, you have to fall in love. I loved this season’s idea to fully explore the collection with time in a private atmosphere in the show space itself. The music from the presentation was playing in the background and transformed me immediately in what I had seen the day before. 40 looks, building the new Prada uniform.

The new Prada S/S 2021 uniform: swinging skirts and hoodies in jersey

«The thing I have talked most about with Miuccia through all these months was uniforms. Not uniforms how as how we literally perceive them—not an army uniform, police uniform—but true metaphorical onesRaf stated after the show.
Miuccia, who has always been famous for her «Prada uniform», went on: «I think what we want to say about uniforms is that it’s interesting if you know that you can find something from which you know that you feel good in and you know that you express what you want to express without it being too much of a very specific fashion item in whatever moment in time. A uniform needs to also express something that is more timeless.»

Amazing details: Prada S/S 2021

For their collaboration, both designers referenced their past through the eyes of the other. «How Miuccia dresses is very often a kind of uniform one way or another, and that was direct inspiration for me for the show,» Simons said in the interview.

However, the show began with this sort of new Prada uniform, very inspired by Simons’ style. Long, narrow, ’90s-style pants combined with sleeveless tunics. All were combined with capes that were held by the models, a gesture that is reminiscent of Miuccia. Speaking of newness, the capes, or «clutch coats» as you may call them, felt so new, so modern to me, especially the way they were structured. I could picture myself wearing them for a night at the opera or throwing them over a bikini at the pool. Absolutely fabulous! Most importantly, the collaborators both love statement outerwear, and the oversized coats will surely be among the bestsellers.

The «ugly prints» of Prada’s era-defining S/S 1996 show appeared on hoodies and matching full skirts. This is definitely for me the new uniform, inspired by the current pandemic. When we want to be comfortable and stylish at once.

As Simons and Prada are both art lovers, they teamed up with Peter Potter to create artwork for the show.

The famous triangle logo appeared supersized, made from petal-folded fabric and imprinted with the logo. So breathtaking when you see it from close.


The pointy-toed slingback kitten heels in a contrasting color are back. Honestly, nobody does colour combinations better than Miuccia.

My favorite looks integrated holey turtlenecks that were used as layering pieces throughout so that the holes match each other. Combined with the swinging ’50s-style skirts, it will be my new Prada uniform.

The bags come with the new logo and are extremely light, nylon backpacks were presented as well. The mini-logo triangle earrings will also surely be spotted among influencers around the globe.

New era, new faces, new Prada. I was raving about the collection during lunch with Ignazio Gomez and Marco Pruneri at Torre restaurant inside the Fondazione Prada.

After that, I was driven to the PRADA Store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II the to discover the «100 covers, 100 people, 100 stories» which is part of the September Issue of Vogue Italia. Inside the shop, there is an interactive wall, where you could explore this amazing project in detail. Never done before, the shoot that took place in only 4 days and involved 100 people for 100 covers: from models, actresses and actors, activists, Instagram stars, writers, artists and common people. Each one of them with a story to tell was photographed in a look from Prada’s F/W 2020 collection.

After that, we went to Pasticceria Marchesi next door, which is one of the oldest and most famous pastry shops in Milan, and that belongs to the Prada Group. In keeping with its history and tradition, the interior design is divine and already worth the visit, not to speak of all those yummy treats you can indulge in.

A beautiful day, exploring the new Prada, that I will always remember! Thank you!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada and © Sandra Bauknecht

Prada Timecapsule

Prada Timecapsule is an exclusive product drop of 50 items, occurring once a month, each first Thursday. Today, on July 2nd, 2020 the monthly Prada Timecapsule will be launched on prada.com – at 3pm CET – for 24 hours only. Forget the slow movement of our times, here you have to be fast. Stepping into the footsteps of Riccardo Tisci for Burberry, who used the so-called 24h «drop», a word mainly used in streetwear, for Burberry already, (for the previous post, click here please), Prada is finding new ways how to promote their products. However with Raf Simons at Prada, who is sharing with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making with Miuccia Prada, we will see a lot of interesting projects coming up.

Prada Timecapsule previous drops and the new July one

Enabled by the new Prada e-commerce platform, unveiled November 2019, this new section is now available solely in Europe (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Monaco, The Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Kingdom), Japan, South Korea and for the first time in China, USA and Canada, reaching other markets over the course of 2020 following the new prada.com layout-relaunching calendar.

This series of drops offer a classic boxy shirt, one of Prada’s wardrobe essentials, presented as unisex in an original printed version. The print’s motif is inspired by a theme related to the month of launch and includes a specific limited edition number 1/50, 2/50….

For this release, scheduled July 2nd, Prada presents a new cotton popeline shirt for both women and men, featuring an exclusive print inspired by the cycling world. Available in XS, S, M, L, XL for €790,00 here for only 24h.

Mark your calendar: the next drop will be on August 6th, 2020.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Prada

Breaking News: Raf Simons Joins Prada

Today, I received the breaking news that Raf Simons will join Prada starting April 2, 2020. Rumors had been out since quite some time and now it is official. The Belgium designer will join the Italian fashion house as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making. Their first runway presentation together will be for S/S 2021 in September 2020. «It’s a new wind,» said Miuccia Prada and I have to admit that I agree with Tim Blanks who wrote: «I cannot think of anything like this in the history of fashion

In 1978, Miuccia Prada inherited the label that was known for luggage making and transformed it into a global fashion brand with her creative designs. Prada has been a true trendsetter for decades, sometimes too fast thinking for the fashion world, she is often a few steps ahead of the game. Her iconic black nylon backpack launched in 1985 caused a real fashion frenzy and has been popular since then. In 1989 she added ready-to-wear to the offerings. Simons, who will continue to design his namesake menswear label, is the first designer from outside the Prada family to join the house since its inception.

Trendsetting: Prada S/S 2012 ad campaign photographed by Steven Meisel

Today at the Prada press conference, Simons announced: “Prada is a brand that I have been interested in my whole life. I cannot wait to express to all of you the dialogue I will have with Mrs Prada and her team. To be really honest, Mr Bertelli approached me right after my exit from Calvin Klein. Miuccia and I had a conversation about creativity in today’s fashion system. And it brought me to open dialogue with many designers, not just Mrs Prada. We have to re-look at how creativity can evolve in today’s fashion system.»

Power couple: Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada

Simons, who had worked with Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli before, when he was hired as creative director of Jil Sander in 2005. Prada had bought the German label and was looking for someone to fill the shoes of the namesake designer at that time. Simons’ seven-year tenure at the brand was an absolute success, and the Prada Group sold it to a London private equity firm in 2006.
Simons later worked at Dior and his latest venture was at Calvin Klein, where he was chief creative officer, and abruptly excited in December 2018.

Presented in Milan last Thursday: Miuccia Prada’s last single show for F/W 2020

Miuccia Prada has still a very strong view on fashion. Yet, it seems hard for her at the moment to translate this into sales. Rumors had been that the family is planning to sell to one of the big conglomerates. With the appointment of Simons, it seems that the Prada family will keep it a family business that also owns Miu Miu and Church’s.

Good luck, Raf!

They will have all my support – I have been collecting Prada pieces since a very young age and have always been very fond of the brand. Good luck to Raf, I am really excited to see what the two creative masterminds will come up with…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada and © Sandra Bauknecht

Miu Miu S/S 2020 Collection & Ad Campaign


I truly adore the Miu Miu S/S 2020 collection, one of my favorites this season. Therefore I couldn’t resist this beautiful shearling-lined appliquéd suede vest below.


iconThe ad campaign captures the sophisticated and playful mood of the runway perfectly. Imagine an artists’ colony. The colony is all female. The claustrophobic dramas of this colony take place within a sprawling, labyrinthine property; part stage set, part installation, part gallery, part home. Here, the events are hinted at, intimated and obliquely observed in the S/S 2020 Miu Miu campaign.

The house of Xavier Corberó: Casa Corberó

The mythology of the artists’ colony and its place within the past, present and future, is conjured at the Casa Corberó. Built by the Catalan artist Xavier Corberó, situated in Esplugues, close to the outskirts of Barcelona, his ‘casa sublim’ is characterised by elaborate, playful forms that still adhere to a certain strictness, discipline and utility.

These notions are reflected in the S/S 2020 Miu Miu collection itself, where creative freedom and expression – at times spattered and hand-painted, with mismatched buttons, ‘collaged’ ruffles, done and yet undone – is contrasted with the discipline of form, silhouette and utility found in the examples of workwear and the uniform, motifs Miuccia Prada turns to once again. Here it is ‘woman’s work’ that is reflected, both domestic and artistic, in the shape of pinafores, aprons and overalls.

TO SHOP MIU MIU ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
iconI hope you like it as much as I do…

LoL, Sandra

CREDITS: Photos by Call This Number, Liz Collins, Lynette Garland
Creative Direction and Styling by Katie Grand
Models: Tomiwa Adeshina, Pia Ekman, Bo Gebruers, Bella Hadid, Tang He, Lea Julian, Jordan Leftwich, Lila Moss, Patrycja Piekarska, Alexis Sundman, Xiao Wen Ju, Kaila Wyatt
DISCLOSURE: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning when you click the links and make a purchase, we receive a commission.

The Prada Bowling Bag

Revised for the Resort 2020 collection, the Prada Bowling Bag is a 21st century classic.
An archive style originally presented as part of S/S 2000 «Sincere Chic» Collection, in turn, it is an echo of the mid-twentieth century Accessories: A memory of memories.

Prada S/S 2000 runway (isn’t the quality of the photos hilarious)

I remember buying it during my first year as an editor at Marie Claire magazine (I cannot believe this was almost 20 years ago) and of course it is still in my closet soon to be worn again.

Reminiscent of the aesthetics of modern design in its straightforward contours, automobile chassis in their reliefs contrast similar materials in vibrant colors to evoke the visual vocabulary of fashion and a broader design vocabulary. Miuccia Prada always combines architecture, art and fashion in perfection.

Prada Resort 2020

It was represented on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the debut of this then iconic and today archetypal model in New York on May 2, 2019 as part of the Prada Resort Runway Show.

The reinterpreted bowling bag is a symbolic Prada silhouette made of fine, soft calf leather offered in four hyperclassic color combinations: white with black, cinnamon with white, white with red and black with white (what a pity the pink and white one is not produced). The Prada Bowling Bag is available from on November in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Thank God, I still have it in my closet, like this I am ahead of the game… therefore you should always keep your pieces until their time has come again.

LoL, Sandra

My Prada bowling bag and lip print skirt, both from the S/S 2000 runway collection.
I love the perforated leather detail….

Photos: © Prada, © Sandra Bauknecht

Miu Miu Eyewear: Head in the Clouds

Miuccia Prada, a true trendsetter, always goes interesting ways to introduce new product launches. For her  new beautiful MIU MIU Eyewear, she  presents «Head In The Clouds», a film that revolves around the female gaze, daydreaming and the Miu Miu Cloudthe latest addition to the brand’s iconic eyewear collection.

Set in the sun-dappled gardens of a country house outside of Paris, «Head In The Clouds» tells the story of a chance encounter between two girls. As Constance loses her glasses during an argument with her boyfriend, Laura stumbles upon these, discovering a new captivating interest – seeing the world through Constance’s eyes. The glasses in question make everything look rose-tinted, opening a portal to mystery, fantasy and the possibility of seeing a beautiful and elusive new friend again. The film celebrates the Miu Miu Cloud, this season’s playfully idiosyncratic cloud-shaped rimless sunglasses with lenses in multiple colors.

«Head In The Clouds» is written and directed by Agostina Gálvez and stars Marylin Lima and Calu Rivero. It is inspired by the director’s love of vintage film posters. Viewers will be able to see two or three moving images simultaneously combined in a manner that is at once poetic, cinematic and graphic. To watch the movie, click here please.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of MIU MIU

Do You Speak Prada?

PRADA REINVENTS ITS OWN CLASSICS FOR RESORT 2019
Established in 1913 at Milan’s prestigious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Prada is one of the world’s most iconic luxury fashion houses. Contemporary art and society inspire its collections, which are designed by visionary Miuccia Prada, granddaughter of founder Mario. Miuccia is fashion’s undisputed trendsetter and mood maker.

In the mid-90s she made ugly chic. For Resort 2019, she went exactly through her rich archive to revisit her famous ’90s decade. In times when everybody is doing more, she takes us back to minimalism but in a modern and updated way – spiced up with geek chic athleticism and playful embellishments.

Many of the pieces felt like revamps of prior Prada classics: a quirky mix of chunky loafers, the famous «yes, they are bad, that is why they are so good» patterns, low waists, kick flares, and opulent brocades combined with leather polos, sequin-studded tights, plastic necklaces and trapper hats. Think of me, once again, it’s Prada’s inimitable way with texture… Miuccia has started a wave. More is more or let’s say more is less. Maximalism is not over, just different.

LOCATION
In May 2018, Miuccia Prada chose the seventh floor of the Herzog & de Meurondesigned Prada HQ in New York as the venue. The transformation of the former piano factory was the first project entrusted to the famous architects by Prada in 2000. It was a kind of a striptease of the existing building: all architectural elements were removed so only the naked concrete structure remained.

THE SHOW
The space was kept as open and empty as possible for the fashion show. Only one new element was added to the space: large floating panels reflecting the cityscape outside and thus transferring images of the real city deep inside the space of the presentation. In addition to the real image of the city, other images of virtual cityscapes were projected onto the boards for an intriguing mix of inside and outside, of analogical and virtual realities.

 

PERSONAL NOTE
I have been a fan of Miuccia Prada from the beginning. A Prada nylon backpack was my school bag and I always felt very strong in her designs. When I studied fashion design, I realized how advanced her thinking is. She is a true pioneer and with her Resort 2019 collection she got the ball rolling again. Is the world ready for a return to minimalism? Probably in a different way than what we are used to. Look at the manicure for the Resort 2019 show, it is minimalistic yet maximalist. It depends on the way of looking at things… as Miuccia says: «Fashion is instant language». Do you speak Prada?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada

The Sidonie by Prada – Nineties Nostalgia

For Resort 2019 Miuccia Prada helped to give us the 90’s rebirth we needed after all this ’80s dominance. And let’s be honest, it had to be her to celebrate this nineties nostalgia as she was the designer who had actually invented the «ugly chic» at that time. She looked through the archives, specifically her collections from the 1990s, for references this season.

The PRADA Resort 2019 show took place in New York City.

The outcome? Printed low-slung trousers with matching jackets, amazing leather coats and my favorite looks, belted miniskirts with ruffled detailing combined with cute polo tops. Moreover a new bag shape, that will probably sell out very fast.

Sidonie Bag Resort 2019

Meet the PRADA Sidonie that evokes elements of the archetypal bags presented in S/S 2000: a curvaceous, ergonomic shape, a modern classic rediscovered.

The inspiration behind the new PRADA Resort 2019 Sidonie Bag can be clearly seen in this ad campaign from S/S 2000.

Sidonie Bag Resort 2019

PRADA bags from S/S 2000 that I have in my closet.

A PRADA bag is always a great investment. I went through my closet to dust these S/S 2000 beauties. As I keep on recommending… don’t throw away your designer items, there will always be a time again for them. And those bags have just found their moment again.

Needless to say, I also would like to buy a new Sidonie bag for my own personal PRADA collection. I adore this blue and black version:

Sidonie Bag Resort 2019

The metal hardware details – plaques and buckles – draw on the brand heritage of superlative luggage-making, established by Mario Prada in 1913, juxtaposed with a modern shape, delicately curved and finely-balanced.

Sidonie Bag Resort 2019

The style is proposed in dual models, top-fastening or flap fronted with, respectively, a cross-body strap or haut, curved and shaped handle to be held on the shoulder for a new attitude. Both are offered in an entire wardrobe of fine calfskin and precious leathers.


PRADA Sidonie is a new character of the brand, a heroine, to be discovered. In stores this month.

’90s nostalgia with a modern twist! Bravo, Miuccia Prada!

LoL, Sandra

The PRADA Resort 2019 campaign: retro meets future.

Photos: Courtesy of Prada and © Sandra Bauknecht

Miu Miu Types Capsule Collection

For MIU MIU’s F/W 2018 ready-to-wear show staged in Paris in March, the elegant halls of the Perret building were hung with generic poster-size sheets of white paper, each bearing
a highly distinctive, large-scale, monochrome illustration of a female face or body interlaced with a letterform.

Ambiance at the MIU MIU F/W 2018 show

This MIU MIU «alphabet» – all 26 letters of the alphabet appeared – was created for the occasion by M/M Paris in collaboration with Miuccia Prada.

A «Miu Miu Types» capsule collection of white poplin shirts, cotton hoodies and track pants will be patched with one, two or three letters , all drawing on the ‘MIU’ of the MIU MIU name.
Classic white cotton T-shirts, meanwhile, will be emblazoned with ‘MIU MIU’ spelt out in full in this idiosyncratic and characteristically playful style.

Available for example in MIU MIU’s new boutique on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

From the end of July 2018, in select MIU MIU stores, clients will be offered the opportunity to personalize a simple white shirt and T-shirt with a single letter of their choosing. In a series of exclusive three-day events visitors will be asked to pick their letter which, will be applied to a garment on the spot or will be sent out for customization and then shipped to their desired destination upon completion.

In this way a bold and beautiful new language for Miu Miu is brought to life.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Miu Miu