Sandra‘s Closet

«Fashion does not belong in a museum.» – Karl Lagerfeld

Probably one of the only quotes of Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019), I don’t agree with and obviously the Costume Institute neither. Its spring 2023 exhibition «Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty» will examine the work of the late designer. Focusing on his stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950s to his final collection in 2019, the show will spotlight the German-born designer’s unique working methodology. Most of the approximately 150 pieces on display will be accompanied by Lagerfeld’s sketches, which underscore his complex creative process and the collaborative relationships with his premières, or head seamstresses. Lagerfeld’s fluid lines united his designs for Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi, CHANEL, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld, creating a diverse and prolific body of work unparalleled in the history of fashion.

I had the honor to meet and work with Karl on several occasions, as a young fashion editor, later on as editor-in-chief and also as a customer of his work, may it be fashion or art. If you interested in some anecdotes, I invite you to read this obituary.

Mannequins specially made for the exhibition, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, reflect the renowned fashion designer’s aesthetic tastes.

Exhibition Dates: May 5–July 16, 2023
Exhibition Location: The Met Fifth Avenue, The Tisch Galleries, Gallery 899, Floor 2
The Met Fifth Avenue, 1000 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10028, Phone: 212-535-7710

Special Access
Evening Hours: Every Sunday until 9 pm. (The rest of the Museum is not open during these hours.)
Met Member Morning Hours: 9–10 am every Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday starting May 6.

The exhibition has a virtual queue which you can join via QR code only once inside the Museum. No advance or timed tickets required. Access is first come, first served and subject to capacity limitations.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lagerfeld, Costume Institute, #ALineOfBeauty
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Next week, the 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders, the famous watch fair, will be taking place in Geneva. From March 27 to April 2, 2023, the 48 exhibiting Maisons will present their watch novelties and iconic models.

Arriving at last year’s fair.

While the first days will be dedicated to professionals, great news is that the Salon will open its doors to the public for the first time on Saturday 1 and Sunday 2 April, 2023. On top of that, the Salon will also take over the streets of Geneva with a special «In the City» program open to all to celebrate watchmaking together.

My favorite booth last year: Van Cleef & Arpels

More than just a trade show, Watches and Wonders Geneva is a passionate experience to be enjoyed in person. It is also a place where you can listen to and learn from the professionals. An extensive program has been specially designed for the weekend with conferences, guided tours and exhibitions. Connoisseurs, enthusiasts and those who are simply curious will be able to discover the marvels of the 48 exhibiting Maisons, from the greatest historical watchmakers to independent workshops and artisans. From exceptional pieces and new collections to skilled craftsmanship, there will be something to satisfy every curious mind.

At the Piaget booth in 2022.

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

TICKETS are CHF 70 per person and can be obtained through the ONLINE TICKETING at watchesandwonders.com.
Here you will also find more information about the weekend.

In parallel, for the first time, Watches and Wonders will also be present in the heart of its host city. This festival of watchmaking, called «In the City», will be free and open to everyone. Visitors can therefore wander freely through the Rues Basses of the city center and spot the WandW display columns. This will be the sign that the boutiques have surprises in store: including historical pieces, demonstration workshops, a chance to chat with the watchmakers, a preview of new pieces, etc. To add spice to the experience, an interactive watch rally has been organized especially for the occasion. Using the QR codes scattered along a route, the public will be able to discover the participating boutiques and emblematic sites.

When the sun goes down, «In the City» will continue to beat in the heart of Geneva: on March 30, all the participating boutiques will stay open until 9pm, while a special program has been created for this evening of festivities. Artists, dancers and musicians will take over five stages along the streets, beginning at 5pm. At the Pont de la Machine, a conference on «Geneva, Switzerland and Watchmaking» will be open to all who register. A collection of food trucks will be stationed at the city’s main crossroads with one objective: get ready for a free concert from the celebrated DJ/Producer The Avener at Quai du Général Guisan, at 8pm.

DJ/Producer The Avener

The heart of Geneva will be beating to the rhythm of watch movements from March 27 to April 2, 2023. The wonder of watchmaking is within everyone’s reach!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Watches & Wonders, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Gucci announces Gucci Cosmos, a major new exhibition of the House’s most iconic and timeless designs from its 102-year history. A playful voyage that spirals backwards and forwards through the decades, Gucci Cosmos consists of eight immersive ‘worlds’ devised by renowned British artist Es Devlin to create a cutting-edge audio, visual, and kinetic experience.

Curated by Italian fashion theorist and critic Maria Luisa Frisa, Gucci Cosmos showcases era-defining pieces from the Gucci Archive in Florence. Encompassing work by founder Guccio Gucci and his creative successors, up to Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, and Alessandro Michele, the exhibition demonstrates how the visionary ethos at the heart of the House has continuously reflected and defined the times.

The Gucci archive space at Palazzo Settimanni in Florence, Italy.

Gucci plans to present Gucci Cosmos at West Bund Art Center in Shanghai from April 28 to June 25 before touring the world.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Gucci
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For more than 160 years, creative exchange has taken place in tandem with the heritage and innovation of Louis Vuitton. These artistic collaborations have expanded the Maison’s universe, enlivening collections with imagination and surprising expression. With LV DREAM, Louis Vuitton celebrates these inspiring ideas and their creators as an expansive exhibition within the building of the former La Belle Jardinière department store, alongside a café and chocolate shop in collaboration with the Cheval Blanc Paris Chef-pâtissier, Maxime Frédéric.

Beginning December 12th, 2022, LV DREAM welcomes visitors to discover a rich exploration of Louis Vuitton’s collaborations through time and across a broad range of historic and contemporary pieces. Comprised of nine rooms with many interactive components, this immersive journey revisits the highly original interpretations in constant dialogue with the Maison. The exhibition plays out with endless dynamism spanning the earliest artistic undertakings such as window displays and perfume bottles; specially commissioned trunks; iconic Monogram reworkings by renowned artists; the diverse range of ready-to-wear collaborations; and the first three chapters of the Artycapucines collection of reimagined Capucine bags.

Inside, visitors will follow a circuit arranged according to themes such as «Louis Vuitton: As Seen»; «The World of Louis Vuitton According to Rei», and «Leather Goods in Fashion». Among the highlights: two portraits of Louis Vuitton by Alex Katz and Mister Cartoon that have never been exposed to the public. The World of Vuitton According to Rei, a room dedicated to Rei Kawakubo, artistic director of Comme des Garçons, who envisioned two capsules for Louis Vuitton: Party Bags in 2008 and Bags With Holes in 2014. Here, the scenography encourages visitors to experiment with the scale to feel as though they are actually inside the bags. Interactive scenography can also be found in Art Meets Fashion, the final space where a digital wall projects motion-sensitive animations adapted from collaborations with Daniel Buren, NigoÒ, Grace Coddington and Christopher Nemeth.

To extend the experience, LV DREAM introduces «Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton» – a café and chocolate shop (Chocolaterie), both overseen by the renowned Chef-Pâtissier of the Cheval Blanc Paris. Among the leading names in the artistry of patisserie and chocolate-making, Maxime Frédéric honed his craft at the palace-hotels of Paris, including Le Meurice and George V, before joining the Cheval Blanc Paris in 2020 and winning the 2022 Gault & Millau Guide prize for Pastry Chef of the Year. Surrounded by tropical plants, the Café offers a lush respite for visitors with a specially developed selection of fresh pastries that play on the Maison’s motifs. The Chocolaterie, meanwhile, showcases a delightful assortment of chocolates that once again draw inspiration from Louis Vuitton codes, packaged in emblematic boxes.

Finally, in the gift shop, visitors can browse items developed with an exclusive LV DREAM design, along with a selection of small leather goods, accessories, fragrances, and publishing.

Conceived for Parisians and tourists alike, LV DREAM builds upon previous exhibitions that have explored the Maison’s history of collaborations. Here, imagination and creative output become an experience for all to discover.

Opening date: 12th December 2022
Location: 2 rue du Pont Neuf – Paris 1er (former Belle Jardinière department store)
Opening hours : Monday to Sunday, 11am to 8pm
Free admission to exhibition upon reservation via Louisvuitton.com
Free entry without reservation to «Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton» and gift store

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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On November 9 and 10, 2022 Prada will present the eighth iteration of Prada Mode in Dubai featuring an installation by artist Damien Hirst. A traveling social club with a focus on contemporary culture, Prada Mode provides members with a unique art experience along with music, dining, and conversations.

In Dubai, Prada Mode will feature a new edition of Pharmacy by Damien Hirst, following the iteration presented at Prada Mode Moscow in 2021. Hirst created the Pharmacy restaurant in Notting Hill, London in 1998, six years after the inaugural installation of the same name at the Cohen Gallery New York. Pharmacy was conceived as a fully functioning restaurant and bar in an installation of Hirst’s floor- to-ceiling medicine cabinets, and specially made butterfly paintings. Hirst designed furniture, architectural details such as a huge molecular model in its window, light boxes, and a wallpaper design taken from a catalogue of prescription medicine. It is fitting for this to be made especially for Prada Mode: the artist’s long-time friend Miuccia Prada designed the staff uniforms for the original restaurant.

«I’m thrilled and honoured to be invited by Miuccia Prada to recreate Pharmacy for Prada Mode in Dubai after our successful collaboration in Moscow,» said the Damien Hirst. «I’m working really hard with a complicated but beautiful space, ICD Brookfield Place, to create harmony between the inside and outside of the new building. Once again, Prada have found a space that will provide the perfect place for it.
I’m so excited to be doing this! I’ve always thought great restaurants can be seen as art, and art without the evidence as we always remember great meals on great evenings with great people in great places and in this way Pharmacy is definitely a kinetic artwork, that works best filled with people and art existing and living and breathing and eating and drinking and enjoying themselves as one.»

For Prada Mode Dubai, Damien Hirst will transform a dedicated space at the landmark ICD Brookfield Place, the newest landmark building in Dubai designed by Foster + Partners. The building has become a lifestyle and business destination and home to some of the world’s leading corporations and an array of high-end restaurants and bars, representing the development of a cultural epicentre in the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre district (DIFC).
On November 9 and 10, early access to the club will be available for members to participate in morning and afternoon panels and discussions as well as nightly events, sampling specialty cocktails and dining throughout.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: ©Prada
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This year, for the 20th anniversary of Art in the Park at the Baur au Lac in Zurich, Hauser & Wirth presents five bronze sculptures by celebrated artist Camille Henrot, one of the most influential voices in contemporary art today. The outdoor installation of major bronze works is organized in partnership with the Baur au Lac and Gigi Kracht, curator, collector, writer and founder of the Art in the Park.

With Gigi Kracht 

Born in 1978 in Paris, France, Camille Henrot lives and works between Berlin and New York City. She is married and has two little sons that are 4 and 1 year old. The practice of the French artist moves seamlessly between film, painting, drawing, bronze, sculpture, and installation. Henrot draws upon references from literature, psychoanalysis, social media, cultural anthropology, self-help, and the banality of everyday life in order to question what it means to be both a private individual and a global subject.

With Camille Henrot during the lunch.

A 2013 fellowship at the Smithsonian Institute resulted in her film «Grosse Fatigue,» for which she was awarded the Silver Lion at the 55th Venice Biennale and that was also on show at the Gucci Museo in Florence in 2014. She elaborated ideas from «Grosse Fatigue» to conceive her acclaimed 2014 installation »The Pale Fox» at Chisenhale Gallery in London. The exhibit, which displayed the breadth of her diverse output, went on to travel to institutions including Kunsthal Charlottenburg, Copenhagen; Bétonsalon – Centre for art and research, Paris; Westfälischer Kunstverein, Münster, Germany; and Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Japan. In 2017, Henrot was given carte blanche at Palais de Tokyo in Paris – a beloved location for fashion shoes – , where she presented the major exhibition »Days Are Dogs,» She is the recipient of the 2014 Nam June Paik Award and the 2015 Edvard Munch Award, and has participated in the Lyon, Berlin, Sydney and Liverpool Biennials, among others.

Next to «Mon Corps de Femme» (2019) displayed in the Baur au Lac gardens

Henrot has had numerous solo exhibitions worldwide, including the New Museum, New York; Schinkel Pavilion, Berlin; New Orleans Museum of Art; Fondazione Memmo, Rome; Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Japan, among others.

«Undelivered Message» (2016)

In the Baur au Lac gardens, three sculptures from Henry’s Monday series (2016-2017) are on display, as well as the impressive «Mon Corps de Femme» sculpture (2019) from the Attachment series (2018-2022) that is a resembling a body caught between two opposite forces; the rising flames reminiscent of Flamboyant Gothic architecture and the meting, heaviness of a sagging belly.

«Retreat From Investment» (2025)

As every year, Gigi Kracht invited us to her wonderful Art in the Park luncheon in the two Michelin star Pavillon restaurant during which we could talk to the artist. Before the lunch, we had the chance to stroll through the wonderful gardens and preview the pieces beforehand.

With Kenny Schachter, artist, critic and curator based in New York City, at lunch.

The show can be enjoyed at the Baur au Lac garden until July 17, 2022.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
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This year, Jani Leinonen, a world-renowned artist, is responsible for the impressive floral Easter egg in the Steinhalle of the Dolder Grand. The installation «Seed in Their Pocket» can be enjoyed alongside it, whereby Leinonen implemented themes of current social issues for both the installation and the Easter egg design. The Finn has a long-standing relationship with the traditional Zurich hotel, which made this art coup possible.

Jani and the finished floral egg installation.

He is one of the most sought-after artists in the world and his works always captures the pulse of the times. The Finnish artist has recently completed a particularly special project for the Dolder Grand – he created the design for the annual 2.5-meter-high Easter egg, which can be enjoyed at the main entrance.

Decorated with over 12,000 carnations by the in-house florist team of four ladies over several days of craftsmanship, it bears the incomparable signature of the artist.

«When the Dolder Grand approached me with this Easter project, I was amazed by the fact that it was made of real flowers. These colourful and beautiful organisms are of great cultural importance,» says Leinonen.

Inside the Dolder Grand on display: «Chapel of Remorse» by Jani Leinonen.

120 famous works of art, including Dalí, Murakami and Tinguely, enhance the ambiance of the Dolder Grand. The Finnish artist’s works have been exhibited at the hotel since 2009, and there are currently six pieces on display. Getting the 44-year-old artist to design the Easter egg this year was a major coup, not least because Jani’s unmistakable style and his unique ability to create pieces that reflect societal issues in a provocative way have made him famous across the globe.

«I’m not particularly religious, but I live in a Christian culture and grew up with stories from the Bible,» says Leinonen.

For him, the story of Easter is one of the most fascinating. For Jani, Jesus’ last words on the cross are the most important aspect: Forgive them, for they know not what they do.

«These words are as relevant today as they ever were, as he says these words to the soldiers who are blindly following orders from their superiors.»

He therefore decided to bring across this message on the Easter egg with just a single word: FORGIVE.

The «Seeds in Their Pockets» installation is also on display alongside the egg. It comprises dried flowers the artist collected in war zones, each with a tag bearing the name of the country in which Leinonen found it. On the day Russia invaded the Ukraine, the Finn read a newspaper article and wrote a poem. It is the story of a Ukrainian woman who meets a Russian soldier and tells him to put sunflower seeds in his pocket so that flowers grow at the place where he dies. «For me, this is a really strong image of war. I discovered that flowers grow on many of the battlefields in these war-torn countries, and it’s mostly the national flowers of the countries.»

With lovely Christina (NewInZurich) and Laura (PR/TICULAR) at the lunch.

I had the pleasure to explore Jani’s works and the making of the installation life at the Dolder Grand this week, followed by a lovely luncheon on the terrace in the presence of the artist.

The egg installation will be on display until Wednesday, April 20, 2022.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Dolder Grand and © Sandra Bauknecht
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

«Coming of Age», in loving memory and honour of Virgil Abloh, is unveiled at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, France. An extension of the original global «Coming of Age» exhibition, the arrival in Paris will play out over a two-week period, from 13th April, at the Frank Gehry-designed space.

In 2019, Virgil Abloh curated a group exhibition titled «Coming of Age» in Los Angeles, California. Presented in creative partnership with Little Big Man Gallery, the exhibition centred around the concept, diversities and complexities of male youth and boyhood – traversing class, race, social economics, subcultures, isolation, and camaraderie. «Coming of Age» travelled to Paris, Beijing, Milan, New York, Munich, Tokyo and Seoul, allowing students, artists, and local communities access to a DIY «copy center», to build and create their own zines with their favourite artworks from the exhibition.

A physical embodiment and homage to Virgil Abloh’s world, «Coming of Age» in Paris regroups, reimagines and expands this original exhibition and its narrative story. A tribute to a hands-on creator, the exhibition encourages activities and participation, combining physical events with digital activations. Visitors become participants, alongside artists, photographers, musicians, directors, and animators. Diverse but united, the participants serve as an illustration of Virgil Abloh’s mission and achievement to democratise the dream embodied by Louis Vuitton, rendering it a domain open to the aspirations of people from all walks of life, all ages, all genders and all races.

The exhibition is open to the public, free of charge, from 13th to 27th April 2022.

Address:
Fondation Louis Vuitton
8 Av. du Mahatma Gandhi
75116 Paris

Opening hours:
Monday to Sunday
12pm to 7pm

Registration for tickets: www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton

On 12 and 13 of November, Prada will present the sixth iteration of Prada Mode at the Levenson Mansion in Moscow featuring an installation by artist Damien Hirst. A traveling social club with a focus on contemporary culture, Prada Mode provides members with a unique art experience along with music, dining, and conversations.

Pharmacy exterior © Damien Hirst and Science Ltd. All rights reserved, DACS 2012

For Prada Mode Moscow, Damien Hirst will transform the historic building with his installation, Pharmacy. Hirst created Pharmacy restaurant in Notting Hill, London in 1998, six years after the inaugural installation of the same name at the Cohen Gallery New York.

Pharmacy was conceived as a fully functioning restaurant and bar in an installation of Hirst’s floor-to-ceiling medicine cabinets, and specially made butterfly paintings. Hirst designed furniture, architectural details such as a huge molecular model in its window, light boxes, and a wallpaper design taken from a catalogue of prescription medicine.

© Tate, London 2012 © Damien Hirst and Science Ltd. All rights reserved, DACS 2012

In Moscow, Hirst will present the third iteration of Pharmacy restaurant, the second being installed at his Newport Street Gallery, London. It is fitting for this to be made especially for Prada Mode: the artist’s long-time friend Miuccia Prada designed the staff uniforms for the original restaurant.

«I’m so excited to be invited by Miuccia to recreate Pharmacy for Prada Mode in Moscow,» said the artist. «I’m pulling out all of the stops to make this amazing, and the four floors of the historic Levenson building will provide the perfect place for it. I can’t wait to get going! I’ve always thought great restaurants can be art, and Pharmacy is a living breathing artwork, best filled with people and art as one.»

One of the most extravagant houses in Moscow… Levenson Mansion.

The Levenson Mansion is a private residence on Moscow’s Patriarch Ponds. The Art Nouveau landmark was designed by architect Fyodor Shechtel in 1900 for the A.A. Levenson Skoroprinting Company, an official purveyor of his majesty Emperor Nicholas II’s Imperial Court.

Last year, Fondazione Prada and Damien Hirst came together in aid of Save The Children.

Prada Mode Moscow will welcome members to access the club at any time over the course of the two-day project to participate in morning and afternoon panels and discussions as well as nightly events featuring exhilarating performances and live music, sampling specialty cocktails and dining throughout. Pharmacy installation will then open to the public from November 14th to 20th 2021.

LEVENSON MANSION
9, TRYOKHPRUDNY LANE
MOSCOW
NOV 12–13 2021

Update on October 21, 2021: Due to today’s news, please be informed that the Prada Mode Moscow event is now postponed. The new dates will be announced soon.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Prada and © Damian First if not stated otherwise

Gucci’s creative energy is finding expression in the Gucci Circolo Berlin: a temporary space in the heart of Berlin where people can gather to enjoy an immersive experience and discover the House collections and codes.

Located in a historic building on the panoramic Landwehr Canal in Berlin-Kreuzberg, Gucci Circolo Berlin is an experiential space to be explored as a narrative journey through the various chapters of the Aria collection, designed by Alessandro Michele and presented in April 2021.
The journey begins with «Gucci 100» and ends with the presentation of «The Hacker Project» through a succession of settings that reflect and enhance the uniqueness of the Maison’s aesthetic.

On their journey through the Gucci Circolo Berlin, visitors have the chance to walk down the runway of the Aria fashion show, recreated at the entrance. The adventure continues in the Listening Lounge, celebrating Gucci’s long-standing connection with music. Here, surrounded by displays packed with vinyls, guests can embark on a sound journey inspired by the songs of some of the friends of the House, including Harry Styles, Sir Elton John, Florence Welch, Achille Lauro, and many others.

The Listening Lounge also offers the opportunity to download a playlist compiled to mark Gucci’s centenary. In the photo booth next to the Listening Lounge, visitors can have their photo taken with visual effects inspired by the patterns of the Gucci 100 collection.
At the end of the journey, guests can relax in the café area on Gucci Décor chairs, surrounded by precious floral arrangements.

Gucci Circolo Berlin features a full calendar of events until the beginning of December. It is housed in a historic building, now owned by Christian Boros, and home to his communications agency BOROS, the BOROS Foundation for contemporary art and the international art book publisher DISTANZ. Originally built in 1878 as the first sewage pumping station of Berlin, the building was formerly used by the senate as a lapidarium, a place for the storage and preservation of old stone monuments.

Location: Hallesches Ufer 78, 10963, Berlin, Germany
Opening Hours: Monday – Saturday, 11:00 – 20:00, upon appointment

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Gucci
@Gucci #GucciCircoloBerlin