Congrats to my friend Tamara Ralph on her collaboration with Audemars Piguet. Both unveiled a new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Inspired by the Haute Couture designer’s aesthetic merging bold femininity, boundless creativity and timeless elegance, this limited edition in 18-carat pink gold shimmers with Frosted Gold and takes on a unique palette of graded hues ranging from brown and bronze to golden tones. This collaboration, which will be revealed on 22 January 2024 during Tamara Ralph’s runway show in Paris for the S/S 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Week, celebrates the natural synergies between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture, while furthering the strong ties that Audemars Piguet has woven with creative worlds over the years.
Tamara and I at lunch at Gigi Ramatuelle in the summer
INSPIRING SYNERGIES
Believing in the power of creativity to feed culture, connect people and broaden horizons, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer has always looked to the larger world for inspiration. Over the years, the Manufacture has fostered enriching dialogues amongst fields of creative practice, including Haute Couture, with which it shares a strong commitment to uncompromising craftsmanship, precision and excellence. In 2020, Audemars Piguet began its partnership with designer Tamara Ralph, pairing several of its watches with her S/S 2021 Prêt-à-Porter collection. Pursuing their enduring relationship, Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph have collaborated this year on the design of a Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon inspired by Ralph’s Couture universe.
«My intention for the design of this piece is for it to capture the spirit and craftsmanship ofboth my brand as well as Audemars Piguet. The complications of watchmaking orchestrate a foundation which can be played with in terms oftextures, colours and designs, allowing for the savoirfaire of couture to shine through. Rich materials, unique colour palettes and ultimate precision are combined, creating an exquisite limited edition of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, inspired by Haute Couture.»
Tamara Ralph – Creative Director and Founder of Tamara Ralph
A REFINED PLAY OF TEXTURES AND LIGHT
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon «Tamara Ralph» Limited Edition showcases an 18-carat pink gold case adorned with Frosted Gold. This ancient Florentine jewellery technique was revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to decorate the Manufacture’s timepieces. Tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones. lts visual power is accentuated by the polished bevel outlining the octagonal bezel, while the case’s satin-brushed flanks provide added contrast. The juxtaposition of finishing techniques-a meticulous operation which required perfect alignment between the hammered, brushed and polished surfaces-gives sumptuous texture to the case, while bestowing it with endless plays of light. For its part, the caseback’s glareproofed sapphire crystal is held in place by an 18-carat pink gold octagonal frame, finished with satin brushing and polished chamfers and engraved with «Royal Oak Concept Limited Edition.» Lastly, the hexagonal crown, whose shape recalls the stainless steel screws punctuating the bezel, also plays with light thanks to its satin-brushed and polished finishing. lts translucent cabochon-cut sapphire adds yet another touch of feminine elegance to the case design.
A HARMONY OF COLOURS AND LAYERS
The multi-layered dial takes inspiration from the bold femininity and textured detailing of Tamara Ralph’s Couture creations. lt is composed of four overlapping circular pink gold plates, creating a ripple effect as they emanate from the flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. Each layer presents a different colour, evolving from brown in the centre to bronze in the middle, to reach golden tones towards the dial’s extremity. While the brown and golden colours have been achieved through galvanic treatment, the bronze layer is covered with bronze lacquer. The dial is finished with a continuous sunburst satin-finishing radiating from the hands outwards, in seamless alignment from one plate to the other. Pushing details to the limit, each plate is adorned with a thin diamondpolished gold thread that adds depth to the dial. Matching with the circular, multi-layered architecture of the dial, the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock merges technical mastery with sophisticated aesthetic.
The cage’s upper frame incorporates three rings radiating from a decentred disc paved with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.04 carats). lts pink-gold-toned hue echoes the 18- carat pink gold hour and minute hands, both filled with luminescent coating for optimum legibility in the dark. At 12 o’clock, the applied pink gold AP monogram adds the final touch. Hour-markers have been left out to accentuate the purity and harmony of the dial design. The timepiece comes with a bronze-toned hand-stitched «large square scale» alligator strap. lt is also supplied with an additional brown alligator strap recalling the centre of the dial for a refined look. The two straps are decorated with a pearly finishing adding subtle elegance and glamour. The timepiece’s glittering hues and intricate details will catch the eye from up close and afar, just like a Couture piece would.
I am absolutely in love with this timepiece!
LoL, Sandra
Photos: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet and © Sandra Bauknecht
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Tamara Ralph
Ralph & Russo Couture F/W 2019
