The 1931 Golden Flowers

Continuing to expand its cultural universe, Jaeger-LeCoultre announces the latest instalment in its Made of Makers program: a new collaboration with Brendi Wedinger, a Los Angeles-based multi- media artist recognised for her work in 3D digital arts, sculpture and floristry, to celebrate the design of Reverso.

Expanding the Dialogue Between Watchmaking and the Arts
Through a series of collaborations with artists, designers and craftsmen from disciplines outside watchmaking, Made of Makers explores and extends the dialogue that naturally exists between horology and art. The programme focuses on artists who share Jaeger-LeCoultre’s values of creativity, expertise and precision, with nature at its core, exploring new forms of artistic expression through different and often unexpected materials and media. Like the watchmakers of La Grande Maison, these artists and innovators have a deep respect for the past as their creative foundation and a springboard for their trailblazing work. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre further explores the world of contemporary art with an unexpected new collaboration.

A Distinctive Artistic Vision that Unites Nature with Technology
Based in Los Angeles, Brendi Wedinger is a multi-disciplinary artist and designer whose three-dimensional, digital artworks blur the boundary between real life and fantasy. Taking inspiration from nature as her primary theme – with an emphasis on biodiversity, sustainability and renewal, and a particular love of flowers – she combines various elements to form a new and surreal visual reality that is almost tangible, occasionally abstract, often highly sculptural, and always emotionally captivating.

While the virtual world of Brendi Wedinger’s art and the technical tools employed to create it, appear to be the antithesis of the organic world that she portrays, a strong affinity with traditional craftsmanship underpins her creative process.

«Rather than using a computer programme to design the work from the outset, I always begin by using the technical tools to hand-sculpt the larger three-dimensional elements, such as the petals of a flower, and hand-draw the fine details. Once I have completed this stage, I use a lot of mathematical equations to create textures, transparency and layering effects,» she explains. «What drew me to the digital medium is that it gives me more tools to play with and a wider scope for experimentation, so that my work becomes a more expressive homage to nature rather than a literal representation of it.»

New 3-D Artworks Inspired by the Flora of the Vallée de Joux
For each Made of Makers collaboration, Jaeger-LeCoultre commissions an original work, inviting the artist to express a theme of interest to the Maison through their particular craft. Given Brendi Wedinger’s deep affinity with the natural world it was self-evident that the theme of the new work would be nature – one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s core values – and flowers, specifically.

Like all Made of Makers collaborators, before starting work on the commission Brendi Wedinger spent time at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux, discovering the crafts of watchmaking and exploring the natural world that surrounds the Manufacture. She combined elements from every aspect of the visit to create her new work – a series of three surrealistic flowers.

«Everything about that visit – from the wildflowers in the fields, to the incredible complexity and tiny scale of the watch components and the patience and skill of all the different craftsmen in the Manufacture – was like a romantic fantasy world, so far from the lightning-fast pace of modern life,» says Brendi Wedinger. «Aside from the natural beauty of the valley, I felt very inspired by the high- complication watches and the unique details you find in them. I wanted the flowers to be complex and one-of-a kind, like the watches, with all of the beauty and immense detail that can be found in both.»

Each of the three creations is an idealised homage to a variety of flowers found in the Vallée de Joux throughout the changing seasons, rather than a particular species that exists in nature.

«When people look more deeply at each work, they will see that every element is recognisable and traceable to a natural flower, but I remixed and layered the details to emphasise their surreal nature,» Brendi Wedinger explains.

Another important element of the commission was that the flowers should be (digitally) rendered in one of the precious metals used at Jaeger-LeCoultre, which creates a hyper-realistic illusion of the shadows and reflections created by light falling on polished gold, further amplifying the surreal effect. In creating this work, the artist has deliberately played with contrasting notions – the opposition between the organic softness of nature and the cold solidity of metal, the digital and the physical, the ephemeral and the static – adding subtle layers of tension and intrigue that heighten the emotional impact of each piece.

From Nature to Art…and Back to Nature
In a play on botanical tradition, the flowers have each been given official Latin names with formal English counterparts. Linking them back to the Maison’s history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has added an official name to each flower, which pays tribute to the Reverso’s year of origin. Thus, elements of poppy, alpine pasque and grass of parnassus have been combined to create Flos Montis Fluit (Flower of the Mountain Flows), known as the 1931 Golden Poppy. Poet’s daffodil, red hemp nettle and late spider orchid are blended to create Gemma Vallis (The Jewel of the Vallee), known as the 1931 Golden Orchid. For the third flower, water mint, pincushion flower and alpine thistle have been combined to create Rhapsodia Petalorum Alpinorum (The Rhapsody of Alpine Petals), known as the 1931 Golden Thistle.

Further blurring the lines between the real and surreal, Jaeger-LeCoultre commissioned a French plant breeder to identify a flower that closely resembles the form of the 1931 Golden Orchid and to breed a hybrid exclusively for the Maison. Named the 1931 White Orchid, it is a natural and physical representation of Brendi Wedinger’s art piece. The flowers – in both their physical and virtual forms – will become part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s visual identity and seen in a wide variety of initiatives in the future.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Jaeger-LeCoultre
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Jaeger-LeCoultre – The Reverso Secret Necklace

Since clocks were first miniaturised to be carried or worn as watches, women have played a pivotal role in determining the aesthetic of time and the ways in which it is worn. Thanks to the pioneering spirit of its founder, LeCoultre & Cie recognised the tremendous aesthetic and technical potential of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels and accessories and, at an early stage in La Grande Maison’s history, began creating watches for women as well as men. Blending the arts of horology and jewellery, the Maison has continued to marry technical sophistication, creative design and aesthetic beauty in a process of constant evolution.

Underlining this commitment to feminine expressions of fine watchmaking, the Reverso – although originally conceived for the gentleman polo player – began to appear in feminine form very soon after its launch in 1931. Among the many variations were models that could be worn on a cordonnet bracelet or transformed into brooches, handbag clips or pendants. In 2023, presented at Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes this creative legacy to a new level, presenting a new interpretation of the Reverso in the form of a magnificent piece of High Jewellerythe Reverso Secret Necklace, which transforms the design icon into a graceful and exquisitely feminine sautoir, or long necklace.

The cordonnet, the original black textile bracelet (literal translation: fine or small cord) seen on Reverso models of the 1930s has been reimagined as a supple chain of intricate diamond-set links and polished onyx beads, from which a richly gem-set Reverso is suspended. Two pendants of polished onyx charms add a refined flourish to this elegant new way of wearing the time.

Among High Jewellery watches there is a long history of secret watches – watches with a gem-set cover hiding the dial until the wearer wishes to read the time. The swivelling case of the Reverso is a twist on this idea, concealing the time when turned over. Although initially designed for purely practical reasons, the blank metal flip side of the case offers almost limitless potential for decoration with gem-setting, enamelling or engraving.

Worn with the case back turned to the front, the Reverso Secret Necklace is a beautiful Art Deco-inspired jewel that conceals its secret power of time-telling until the wearer chooses to reveal it; worn with the front dial showing, it is an exquisite timepiece that hides its reverse side like an enchanting, personal pleasure. It is notable that while the dial appears to observers to be upside-down, it is set that way so that the wearer can read the time naturally as she lifts the watch to her line of sight.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the very few watchmaking Maisons to have its own Métiers Rares® (Rare Handcrafts) atelier, bringing multiple craft skills together in a specialised workshop within its Manufacture.

Recalling the Art Deco origins of the Reverso, the reverse side of the pink gold case is set with white diamonds and black onyx in an intricate pattern of geometric repeats, contrasting with the warm tone of the metal. Vertical rows of grain-set diamonds wrap around the convex sides of the case and frame the dial. Contrasting with the richness of black onyx and pink gold, the centre of the dial is set with white diamonds, as are the signature brackets that define each corner of the dial. With over 3,000 diamonds, the gem-setting on the Reverso Secret Necklace requires over 300 hours of meticulous work for our Métiers Rares® atelier artisans.

Concealed within the case, the movement that powers the Reverso Secret Necklace is testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to mechanical excellence. Developed and produced entirely in house and comprising 93 parts, the manually-wound Calibre 846 was created specifically for the Reverso and, in keeping with the Manufacture’s philosophy of product integrity, is shaped to follow the contours of the rectangular case.

The Reverso Secret Necklace is an exquisite creation that represents a rare and noble marriage of high jewellery, rare handcrafts and fine watchmaking.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Jaeger-LeCoultre
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The New Way of Watch Shopping

Starting from today, NET-A-PORTERicon and MR PORTER will be the privileged multi-brand online retailers of Watches & Wonders, a global concept that celebrates watchmaking excellence throughout the world. Hosting digital and offline events, this concept will bring some of the industry’s most revered luxury watch brands to the online shopping destination’s extensive customer base, starting from today. Fourteen watchmaking Maisons will feature as part of this initiative, together for the first time.

A great example for a super informative masterclass for Net-à-Porter’s EIP clients last June.

Over the course of the campaign, NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER customers will be able to enjoy a calendar of activity, including exclusive EIP (Extremely Important Person) virtual events and small-scale appointment-based activity, virtual one-to-one appointments and interactive Instagram Live conversations hosted by NET-A-PORTER and PORTER’s Editor in Chief, Sarah Bailey, and MR PORTER’s Senior Watch Editor, Chris Hall.

In anticipation of the celebrated campaign, and in response to extensive customer research across both retailers, NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER will also introduce a number of new website enhancements to the luxury watch shopping experience, including an improved size guide and the addition of trend-driven, occasion-based and material filters. Further developments will follow in the near future.

One of my favorite watches that I got at Net-à-Porter: Panthère de Cartier Manchette 22mm 18-karat rose gold and diamond watchicon by Cartier

The arrival of Watches & Wonders on NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER marks a significant moment for the industry, bringing together the leading watch and jewellery players, and establishes the luxury retailers as the ultimate global shopping destinations for fine watches. Following on from the Watches & Wonders digital platform that occurred on NET-A-PORTER’s Tmall flagship store in April, this new initiative marks the beginning of a year-long programme and showcases a unique tri-fold industry approach to the fast-evolving luxury watch landscape.

With Alison Loehnis at a Net-à-Porter event

«By teaming up with the world’s premier watch showcase, we want to provide an international platform for the most exceptional timepieces, supporting an environment where their stories – and those of their iconic makers – can come alive and be accessed by watch lovers across the globe
Alison Loehnis, President, NET-A-PORTER & MR PORTER

NET-A-PORTERicon will introduce the latest creations from Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger LeCoultre, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin.

Bovet’s limited-edition Dimier Recital 27 Green that will launch at Mr Porter.

MR PORTER will host a curated offering of the most recent creations from across 13 prestigious watch Maisons including Cartier, HYT and Panerai, and will introduce two new brands: Ulysse Nardin and Bovet. Ulysse Nardin will launch with eight timepieces, including the Blast Rose Gold; Bovet will launch with four timepieces, including the limited-edition Dimier Recital 27 Green.

Another beauty in my closet shopped at Net-à-Porter: Royal Oak 37mm 18-karat frosted rose gold watch by Audemars Piguet

Personally speaking, I love being an EIP at Net-à-Porter. The personal shopping department is divine and the events I have been invited to were always superb. I bought two watches for myself and I am super happy with the service provided by my favorite online retailer.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Net-à-Porter, © Mr Porter © David Biedert Photography, © Sandra Bauknecht
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Celebrating National Day as a Swiss

Today, is August 1st, Swiss National Day, the date on which three Alpine cantons swore the oath of confederation in 1291, an act which later came to be regarded as the foundation of Switzerland. It is celebrated everywhere in the country, as it always has been, with meetings in town squares, fetes, fireworks and bonfires.

I have been living in Switzerland now for over fourteen years and since March, I am also a proud double citizen, being German and now also Swiss.

I love the mountains, the lake of Zurich, the people, the food and of course the Swiss watches which are famous around the world. Therefore I thought that I dedicate today to some of the most iconic watchmakers.

Possession 34mm stainless steel, alligator and diamond watch by Piaget

L’Heure du Diamant 35.75mm 18-karat white gold, satin, diamond and mother-of-pearl watchicon by Chopard

Ballon Bleu de Cartier 33mm stainless steel and diamond watchicon by Cartier

Rendez-Vous Night & Day 34mm medium stainless steel, alligator and diamond watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre


iconDa Vinci Automatic 36mm stainless steel and alligator watch by IWC Schaffhausen
icon

Enjoy your day!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Courtesy of the Brands

SIHH 2019

Personally speaking, SIHH in Geneva, the famous Swiss watch trade fair, is one of the most enjoyable events of my yearly must-dos. Nevertheless, a lot has changed during the past years. In 2020, the so-called Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie will take place in May right after Baselworld. It makes sense especially for all the visitors from abroad to come only once to Switzerland.

This year, Van Cleef & Arpels decided not to be exhibiting due to the little business the brand has with retailers and distributors. Two other luxury watch brands, Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet, are leaving next year for similar reasons. It seems that most of the prestigious watch companies are dealing more and more directly with their consumers.

Happy Sandra after seeing Audemars Piguet’s amazing high jewellery watch Sapphire Orbe (a detailed post to follow).

In the meantime others joined the exhibition for the first time, for example Bovet, known for their handmade watches with artistic finishes and highly complicated movements. In addition, Breitling and Bucherer recently became members of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which manages SIHH. This might be the first step in replacing Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet for 2020.

Still trending: Colourful straps as seen at Piaget, Cartier and Audemars Piguet.

But most importantly what will we wear in 2019? Cuff watches, tourbillons, dial sets with miniature paintings, skeleton movements, shaped cases and still lots of celestial influences… Below are some of my favorite ladies’ watches revealed during the 29th Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked
A watch that is brilliant in every way.
White “frosted gold”, 37mm, manual winding manufacture skeleton movement with a rainbow magic of its 32 baguette-cut sapphires (2.24 carats). MY FAVORITE!

RICHARD MILLE RM 37-01 Kiwi
Fancy a little watchmaking sweetness to help you through the winter?
Colored Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, 34.400 x 52.30mm, self-winding mechanical movement, limited edition (30 pieces)

ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Shooting Star
The coolest booth for the fastest girls in the world.
Pink gold set with diamonds, 36mm, flying tourbillon, skeleton manual winding movement.

PIAGET Possession Cuff Watch
A booth filled with sand for a little time out at the beach – a perfect backdrop to show the expert application of gold-working, a skill for which the brand is historically famed.
Pink gold set with 162 diamonds, 29mm, gold Milanese mesh strap.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Moon Jewellery
One the sky is the limited. Nature played an important role at Jaeger Le-Coultre.
White gold case with mother-of-pearl dial and polished rhodium-plated appliqués, diamonds ~168 (~3.43 carats), calibre : 925B/1.

CARTIER Baignoire Allongé
Women are in for a treat at Cartier. Part of the Maison since 1912, the Baignoire features an ellipsis-shaped dial and  earned its unusual name in the late 1950s thanks to its strong resemblance to a bathtub.
Extra-large model, pink gold, dial set with brilliant-cut diamonds (293 diamonds,~1.50 carats), dark alligator leather strap, manual movement 1917 MC.

During the next days, I will show you much more as the most distinguished models deserve their own post, don’t you think? Stay tuned!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Some Stills: Courtesy of the Brands

Watch Out for the Blue Watch Trend

The colour of kings, blue, was unquestionably one of the stars of the SIHH 2018 (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), a unisex shade for both, men and women, that recounts watchmaking’s noble origins. Once the exception to the rule, blue has become one of watchmakers’ go-to colours. Indigo or azure, sky or cerulean, teal or navy, the year’s collections have revealed a vast palette of fashionably chic shades. Dials as blue as the ocean’s deep or as luminous as the sky, diamonds embellishing watches to ignite desire, colourful straps that bring originality to the wrist.

Whether matched with the soft sheen of pink gold, the warmth of yellow gold, or contrasting with the icy purity of steel, blue has the faculty to adapt to every style and material.
Please see for yourself:

MEN’s WATCHES

Clockwise from top left:
Kalpagraphe Chronomètre by Parmigiani Fleurier
Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu by Ulysses Nardin
Clifton
by Baume & Mercier
Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel by Hermès

Excalibur Aventador S by Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis dares to be rare once again and goes where others fear to tread – by launching colourful iterations of its iconic Excalibur line in conjunction with partners Perfect Fit Pirelli and Raging Mechanics Lamborghini Squadra Corse at SIHH 2018.

Offering yet another stunning example of highly complicated watchmaking inspired by the automotive world, the Roger Dubuis x Lamborghini Squadra Corse partnership roars to life in 2018 with the 45 mm Excalibur Aventador S Blue vying for pole position by being crafted from the same C-SMC carbon as that used on the actual Lamborghini cars.
Limited to 88 pieces.

Freak Vision by Ulysee Nardin

Introducing the first automatic watch in the Freak Collection, the Freak Vision. Among the game-changers: a super-light silicium balance wheel with nickel mass elements and stabilizing micro-blades and a new case design made even thinner by a box-domed crystal. Time is still indicated in the «Freak» manner that sets the collection apart: by the baguette movement itself, a  50 hours «flying carrousel» rotating around its own axis.

Yet the design components are completely different. The new 3D carved upper bridge is inspired by a boat’s hull. Finally, the entire 45mm platinum case itself is new—horns, bezel, the rubber on the side—making for a look that is much more open and generous.

WOMEN’s WATCHES

Clockwise from top left:
Millenary Hand-Wound Ladies Watch by Audemars Piguet (with interchangeable straps)
Laureato Royalty, 34mm
by Girard-Perregaux
Sweet Alhambra  Watch
by Van Clef & Arpels
Possession Watch, 29mm
by Piaget

Clockwise from top left:
Luminor Due 3 Days, 42mm & Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic, 38mm, both by Panerai
Bohème Automatic Date, 34mm
by Montblanc
Slim d’Hermès Mythiques Phoenix Coloriages, 39mm by Hermès
Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium
by Jaeger-LeCoultre

One is more beautiful than the other… the decision is all yours.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
Single Photos of Roger Dubuis, Ulysee Nardin: Courtesy of the Brands