Serge Lutens – Dent de Lait

Around 5 years ago, I had the chance to meet and interview perfume genius ​Serge Lutens (for the previous post click here please). He is a true gentleman, an inspiring soul, a very special human being with an aura that captures you in an instant.

For the launch of the House’s newest scent, DENT DE LAIT (milk tooth – think about it who in the world but Serge Lutens would name a perfume like this – you must already love him), which joins the Collection Noire, Serge Lutens wrote a poem-like story as he usually does.

The fragrance, inspired by childhood, includes notes of milk, metallic notes, incense, heliotrope and almond. And now I invite you to indulge in his words…

DENT DE LAIT

«The leather of my wristwatch encircles my left wrist. In the centre of the watch face turn two hands, an integral part of the mechanism, one indicating the hours and the longer one the minutes. They demonstrate the existence of time, a concept as elusive as God. Each day I descend a little further into it. But a child appears in my deepest slumber, asking me to go to take a look. What does it want me to see?

Myself as a pupil in the playground, back against the wall, alarmed at my fear provoked by the violence I saw in others? It was the age when you were supposed to be able to distinguish between Good and Evil. To recognise the male and the female in these faces. To know your friends from your enemies. The onset of a danger when, panicked, you see abandoned sections of the dental arch.

I am knocked off kilter by the incisors, canines, molars and premolars on the roof of my mouth, each loosened in turn by the bottom teeth growing out of the sockets.
By dint of explanation, I manage to live with it.

Now weary of the tongue’s games which have for weeks on end been loosening its tooth, a young wolf is anxious to move on from milk to blood. If to one end of a thread, at least two meters long, he ties the wobbly tooth and attaches the other end to a door handle, this is not merely to wait for the wind to swing the door, but through this text to release him from his childhood alienations. The nails of the middle finger and thumb now embed the tooth. Persistent suction on the cavernous empty space evacuates the “bad”. What will become of the relic?

At best, after a night under the pillow, it will become a coin or a wrapped sweet…
or, we might find it so beautiful that we attach it to a chain to carry it with us. I have loved you for so long I will never forget you.
The youth, still innocent, must tear himself away from the calming, albeit tenacious, comfort of these years. He has for many years been gagged by that which must not be said. Now he wants to find his voice. There may be 42 faces of the Quran, but only one will prevail: be it the genius or the madman, the dictator or the sage, in each of them, he will find himself again.»

Serge Lutens

Black collection
Dent de Lait 100 ml ($230/€180/CHF225)
Available now at the Palais Royal – Serge Lutens and on www.sergelutens.com.
From September 2017, in selective perfumeries and department stores.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens and © Sandra Bauknecht

The Ultimate Concealer Palette

Serge Lutens_Bonne_Correction

«Three clever little shades that provide a multitude of possibilities for perfecting your complexion: they stomp out redness and banish dark circles. They are to your average corrector what porcelain is to terracotta.» – Serge Lutens

The new concealer palette UNE BONNE CORRECTION by Serge Lutens is more than sublime, it offers everything you need for a perfect eye. It includes three different concealer shades, a translucent setting powder and some brushes so that you can slip it into a bag for easy retouching during the day.

UNE BONNE CORRECTION is available in perfumeries and in department stores for approximately CHF 205.00 (€ 150.00) now.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens – L’incendiaire

L'incendiaire by Serge Lutens

Firing of all wood, the arsonist turning the page of a new history of the senses.
– Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens L'incendiaire

SERGE LUTENS is launching a new line of pure perfumes with a gold label. The first one of the so-called Golden Section is L’incendiaire (the arsonist, the pyromaniac). In the cryptic press release, Serge Lutens, who is a real poet (you can read an interview I did once with him here), introduces the new collection with a few words suggesting they make a break with the black labels, bringing forth a new idea, like his “Eau” line was separate in concept than the rest.

Serge Lutens

The new scent is very Lutens, a sensual and opulent skin perfumery. Rare resins, ambers and tarmac…. insanely elegant and deep combined with notes of geranium, carnation, woods and incense. In stores end of October for CHF 545.00 (50ml).

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens

Smoky Eyes

SmokyEyes

I love smoky eyes, they are always on trend. I have recently tried two new products that are absolutely great. Here are some tips how to achieve this gorgeous look very easily.

Serge_Lutens_eyeshadow2

SERGE LUTENS FARD A PAUPIERE N°2

Discover the most recent addition to the Les Necessaires de Beauté collection: a palette in pale neutrals and mauves to create a smoky eye that is as easy to wear as black.

Available for CHF 200.00 (at Jelmoli in Zurich for example).

Glo-minerals

GLOMINERALS SMOKY EYES KIT

This kit includes four essential colors for creating a sultry smoky eye in a sleek, mirrored compact. A five easy steps application guide is also included.

Formulated with glominerals’ exclusive blend of antioxidants, including vitamins A, C, E and green tea, it provides nutrients that are vital to maintaining skin’s healthy radiance. The colours may be applied dry or wet to increase pigment, which is great if you are using them as an eye liner.

In Switzerland available for CHF 64.00 (at Schminkbar in Zurich or Cosmetic Susan Meier in Lucerne among others).

TIPS  & TECHNIQUES 
How to create the perfect smoky eye

When creating a smoky eye, always start off with doing the eyes first, as makeup may fall on to the face. Use the lightest shade as a base eyeshadow from lash line to brow. Follow with the second lightest color, applying it to the lid, stopping just beneath the brow bone. Next, apply a darker hue in the outer 3/4 of the crease. Lastly, add definition by lining top and bottom lash lines using the darkest one such as black. Smudge gently for a sexy, smoky look. Blending is the key. Use lighter, more natural tones on the cheeks and lips to let the eyes stand out but not look overdone.

LoL, Sandra

Smokey eyePhotos: Courtesy of Glominerals and Serge Lutens, © Sandra Bauknecht

A Girl from Berlin

Serge_Lutens_La_fille-de-Berlin

“She’s a rose with thorns, don’t mess with her. She’s a girl who goes to extremes. When she can, she soothes; and when she wants … ! Her fragrance lifts you higher, she rocks and shocks.”Serge Lutens

PackLaFilleDeBerlin_BD

Inspired by Marlene Dietrich, a German-American actress from Berlin’s ‘Golden Twenties‘, Serge Lutens’ newest fragrance launch pays a poetic tribute to a woman who is beautiful and delicate on the surface but strong, independent and mysterious underneath. The Eau de Parfum is a concentrate of red roses: subtle and powdery yet spicy and extremely long-lasting.

LA FILLE DE BERLIN (A Girl from Berlin) by Serge Lutens
Oriental Floral

Top notes: Red rose and black pepper
Middle notes: Violet
Base notes: Musk, amber and woody notes

In stores now for €82.00 (50ml).

Lutens is a very intellectual perfumer. His ideas and inspirations seem mostly abstract and highly fascinating. If you are interested to read an interview with him, click here please.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens, © GDW

Serge Lutens – Lèvres en Boîte

Serge_Lutens_Lèvres_en_boîte_2

Lèvres en boîte: A colour in mind, your lips in a box. When you’re done, just shut it! Apart from your lip’s natural colour, there is no true “rouge”. Four shades offer a world of possibilities. Use one of the enclosed lip brushes with the special mixing pan and blend any combination of the four colours to create your own one. And of course, each shade of red may also be used individually.

Available in November 2012 for CHF 199.- / €145.-.
In Switzerland in Geneva (Globus), Lausanne (Bon Génie), Zurich (Jelmoli), Bern (Schütz) and Crans Montana (Parfumerie Internationale).
My foreign readers can shop the product here.

LoL, Sandra

Photo: © Sandra Bauknecht

Serge Lutens – Santal Majuscule

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Winter 1952. That night, just before dawn, it snowed. A boy, with his collar folded up to protect his neck, headed on his way to school. A thin white veil slipped beneath his feet and swirled around him, cloaking his mouth and the muffled words: “I’m going to be late!”

This is the start of the press release, a poetic essay about a young school boy, who fills his notebooks with drawings of flowers and dragons, who is reprimanded by his schoolteacher for taking great delight in decorating the words in his sentences with embellished capital letters (“majuscules” in French) and who is fascinated by Medieval legends. The boy, it’s Serge Lutens. And the word “Santal” on the bottle is capitalized.

PackSantalmajuscule_HD

Santal Majuscule is built around three ingredients, a superlatively crafted gourmand compositionSandalwood, cocoa and Damask rose.

Another masterpiece from Serge Lutens, Santal Majuscule will be available September 2012.
50 ml, CHF 157.-

If you are interested to know more about the famous perfumer, please click here for an interview I did with him earlier this year.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens

Happy Rosy Mother’s Day

Mother's Day2012

This Sunday is Mother’s Day and it is still not too late to find the perfect gift for your beloved mum. Instead of giving a bouquet of roses have you ever thought of giving roses in a tube?

Here are some gift ideas for you:
(For my Zurich based readers, most products are available at Osswald and Jelmoli).

AESOP HAIR ROSE SCALP MASQUE 120mL

Rose Hair & Scalp Moisturising Masque by AESOP
CHF 38.- (120ml)

This rich conditioning treatment restores vitality and shine to all hair types with active ingredients of rose petals and lavender stems. It is to be used on the hair and scalp once a week for half an hour. Should hair be extremely dehydrated, it can be left on overnight. This masque is suited to all types of hair but ideal for dry, brittle or coloured hair.

The deep conditioning leaves hair soft, lustrous and moisturised; dry and flaky scalps will be soothed and hydrated.

Dior Crème de Rose

Crème de Rose by DIOR
$26.50 / €24.50 / CHF 41.-

Crème de Rose is an essential nourishing and smoothing lip balm with a delicate rose fragrance that is simply addictive! It is enriched with a rare and precious Damask Rose essential oil extract, an anti-aging complex, energizing vitamins A and E, and shea butter for a long-lasting regenerating and smoothing anti-wrinkle effect. It leaves the lips optimally soothed, moisturized and nourished. Soft and beautifully plump, the lips are more radiant than ever!

by-terry

Baume de Rose (Rose Balm Gloss) by BY TERRY
$55.- / €39.-

By Terry has created a chic and practical crystal case for their must-have Rose Balm which hydrates and nourishes the lips. It features an extremely high concentration of lipid-building substances and essential rose wax. The formula is a rejuvenating, reparative, strengthening, nourishing and anti-ageing treatment that enhances the voluptuousness of the lips and leaves them radiant with the glow of health!

Red Roses Bath Oil Jo Malone

Red Roses Bath Oil by JO MALONE
£38.- (250ml) – also availabe in a beautiful glass decanter (200ml)

Composed of seven types of roses from around the world, Red Roses is a surprisingly clean, voluptuous scent. With a heart of crushed violet leaves and hints of lemon and spearmint, it unfolds like a bouquet of fresh-cut flowers. Red Roses Bath Oil gently fragrances and moisturises the skin. Lush and softly foaming, it’s pure relaxation.

Annick-Goutal-Creme-Splendide-Corps-Koerpercreme_high

Crème Splendide Corps by ANNICK GOUTAL
€100.- (60ml)

Nutrition and firmness for all skin types. Highly concentrated in phyto-energizing active ingredients, caffeine and Active Rose Serum, Crème Splendide Corps nourishes, tones, firms and leaves skin satin-soft. Its luxurious, sumptuous texture and its fresh rose-like fragrance of morning dew win is seductive and irresistible. Rich in precious oils such as the oil of macadamia, and jojoba, this cream nourishes the skin in leaving it toned and soft like satin. It is a genuine, youth-promoting curative treatment which stimulates cellular renewal. I am completely addicted to the body cream.

 

Serge Lutens Rose 2

Sa Majesté La Rose by SERGE LUTENS
CHF 119.- / €79.- (50ml)

A wonderful, intensive, floral bouquet with rose as the leading role in the center. For this fragrance, Serge Lutens combined Her Highness, the Rose, with fresh, green, opening notes, spices and woody notes in the base. For a previous interview with the famous perfumer, please click here.

hf_c_roses_floralRoses Scented Candle by DIPTYQUE
$60 (standard size) and $28 (mini size)

This beautiful scented candle recalls an armful of tender, changing roses that lightly evoke the world’s most universally loved flowers.

I would like to end this post with a huge thank you to all mums in the world:

“A mother is the truest friend we have, when trials heavy and sudden, fall upon us; when adversity takes the place of prosperity; when friends who rejoice with us in our sunshine desert us; when trouble thickens around us, still will she cling to us, and endeavor by her kind precepts and counsels to dissipate the clouds of darkness, and cause peace to return to our hearts.”

– Washington Irving

LoL, Sandra

Interview with Perfume Genius Serge Lutens

Serge Lutems

Meet Serge Lutens, the genius behind the eponymous fragrance and cosmetic label, launched in 2000. Mysterious, captivating, charming, Serge Lutens talks freely and poetically.

His appearance is sylphlike as a dancer, there is something magical about him. He has cast a spell over me after a few seconds.

Serge Lutens et moiSerge Lutens with me

Born 1942 in Lille, France, he started his career as a makeup artist and worked for Vogue along with famous photographers such as Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. Monsieur Lutens, as his assistant addressed him constantly during our interview, established the first cosmetics line for Christian Dior in 1967.

blob-out-6-1962790_0x420Photo: Serge Lutens for Vogue Italia, 1976

His series of photographs that he took in the ’70s were even shown in the Guggenheim Museum. In the ’80s, Shiseido hired him as Creative Director. The famous Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, conceived and designed by the perfume genius in 1992, are described by him as “more of a refined salon for perfumes than a boutique”.
There you can shop his exclusive line of fragrances.

Lutens1I am a huge fan of his perfumes. Here you see my very own Serge Lutens collection.
Un Bois Vanille is one of my favourites.

We spoke French during the interview and I have to admit that there is something so magical about his French language that any attempt to translate his answers into English almost fails to fully capture their essence. I hope that you will still get to the bottom of his universe.

MEET MONSIEUR LUTENS…

What would your mother say about you?

This is my son!

Your first memory concerning perfume?

It is not an actual perfume, it is more a culmination of things. At the age of 7, your olfactory sense is completely developed. After that, you only rediscover.

When you go out, how much time do you need to get ready?

20-25 minutes.

What was the topic of your last dinner-table conversation?

This was too long ago that I could remember it.

The last time you had an argument was about…

Honesty

Your favourite shop?

The bookstore Librairie Galignani, 224 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris. I shop there every time that I am in Paris.

Your most expensive piece of art?

I am not attached to expensive goods. Art is decoration for the house.

What was the first desire you ever felt?

Never to rest, always to exceed my own expectations.

What do you dislike?

Stupidity, ignorance and misbehaviour.

Most people wouldn’t know you’re a fine…

It is better that they don’t know.

In your suitcase, when travelling, there’s always a…

It is always empty when I am leaving Morocco and when I am coming back, filled to the brim.

Who is for you the most impressive person in history?

It mostly only one part that impresses me, so that I couldn’t name just a single person.

Are you subscribed to a newspaper or magazine?

No. I am changing my preferences too fast.

You would like to be really good at…

There is nothing I could think of. I could say that I would like to be a great dancer or singer, but that wouldn’t make any sense. I was just not born under that star.

You live in Morocco. How does it smell?

The scents of Morocco inspired me to do perfumes. It was no choice. Now, I don’t use those ones so much anymore.

Do you have  a favourite ingredient?

I will always use classic and natural ingredients. But I don’t have one favourite. Would you ask a  poet which ones are his favourite words? It is similiar. The ingredients are like senses, they will tell you something. You just have to translate. It is like a composition.

Now you have changed your way of perfume. The new L’Eau Froide smells fresh and is along with your first L’Eau from 2010 completely different from your other previous creations. Why?

Yes, you are right. It is a wonder of pureness. A shock. It is the essence of my life.

Some journalists called L’Eau de Serge an anti-perfume. Does it bother you if people analyze and judge your creations?

No, not at all. It is not mine anymore. It is over. I created it, but once it is done, it doesn’t belong to me anymore.

Do you have somebody or something in mind when creating a perfume?

I always think of something. The creation is passive, not active. You are in there. It is like a passion. It takes you on a journey, you have no choice. The real partner is the perfume. It lives and gives you the answer. You are at its demand. You have to forget the „you“.

Do you listen to music when you create?

No, those are two different things. When I am listening to music, I am listening to music! I am in it, that is unique.

Music is so important. But I hate this overdose in our days. Music is everywhere, in the restaurant, in the elevator. It kills all the senses. The same applies to perfumes. If you walk through a big department store, it is horrible.

Do you wear perfume?

Not very often. If I do, it is to set a statement. When I go out, I like to use it. But I rarely go out anymore.

The best perfume of all times?

Always the one, that I am working on. It is as it is supposed to be and loving it is just the natural consequence.

The most important beauty product a woman has to have?

Self-confidence. This is what she brings to the table. This is her. Beauty is the moment, when you are really yourself!

It is not about beautiful eyes or a beautiful mouth. Of course, those features help but there are beautiful people who are dreadful and there are not so beautiful people that can be very pretty. It is the charm that counts.

How much power do women have?

The power of persuasion and creativity. Everything creative is female.

You worked with Richard Avendon, Irving Penn. How were they? How was it to work with those famous people?

The had passion, they loved their work. They were not professionals. Professionals are boring. I worked with many considerable people, such as David Bailey, Helmut Newton among many others. All they had in common was, that they were not professionals, they were amateurs.

What does confuse you about people from your industry (cosmetics/fragrance)?

People that would like to be professionals. As I said, I only like amateurs.

Do you have a favourite city?

The city where I am in that moment. My brain is my room. I could live tomorrow in Geneva or somewhere else. I don’t care, what I need, I have on me. I just need my little book to take notes and that is it. Life would be the same.

You have done many different things in your life, photography, filmmaking, hair styling, perfumery among others. Do you have a favourite phase?

No. Each time, it is the same, just in another way.

One wish from the fairy?

That she turns my pumpkin into a carriage.

Thank you very much, Monsieur Lutens! It was such an honour to meet you!


LutensL’Eau Froide, the newest creation of Serge Lutens, is in stores now, 50ml (CHF 108.-) and 100ml (CHF158.-).
Fresh and crystalline
Composition: Somali incense, musk and aquatic note.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens, Vogue Italia and © Sandra Bauknecht

Weltwoche Style Edition 01-2012

Weltwoche 1-2012

For my Swiss and German based readers: The first 2012 Weltwoche Style Edition – which is the biggest issue ever – is available now featuring my new season’s must-haves, the story of Tommy Hilfiger and an interesting questionnaire that I did with the famous perfumer Serge Lutens. Have a good weekend read!

LoL, Sandra