Sandra‘s Closet

Personally speaking, there hasn’t been one collection, Mary Katrantzou hasn’t amazed me with. This season has been no different. For the motif mistress, footwear prints walk a fine line between fashion and art. For S/S 2014, she was inspired by every woman’s love for shoes for her signature digital prints.

The collection’s evening looks were absolutely divine, and heavenly embroidered by the House of Lesage in Paris with which Mary had been working before already. Think ruffles, empire and baby doll cuts. Nothing for the shy! I am loving it!

Great news: YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO PRE-ORDER THE MARY KATRANTZOU S/S 2014 COLLECTION STRAIGHT OF THE RUNWAY FOR THE NEXT 6 DAYS BY CLICKING HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou, Style.com, © Getty Images

Today was a big day! The last day of Paris Fashion Week started with the Louis Vuitton S/S 2014 show. Rumors had been out quite a long time about Marc Jacobs leaving the French brand after 16 years, but the minute I arrived at the venue, I knew, it was true. It felt like a journey through time. From the governess girls at the entrance to the station clock, the carrousel, the elevators and the escalators, the fountain, last season’s hotel corridors, every little detail was reminiscent of something amazing Marc had created for a Louis Vuitton show.

In the press kit on my seat, Marc Jacobs wrote something so beautiful that I truly would like to invite you to read it:

“This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in every one of them, Emmanuelle Alt, Jane Birkin, Betty Catroux, Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Coco Chanel, Cher, Grace Coddington, Sofia Coppola, Victoire de Castellane, Catherine Deneuve, Claude Lalanne, Julie de Libran, Lady Gaga, Judy Garland, Katie Grand, Juliette Gréco, Françoise Hardy, Zizi Jeanmarie, Rei Kawakubo, Madonna, Liza Minnelli, Kate Moss, Louise Nevelson, Edith Piaf, Miuccia Prada, Lee Radziwill, Millicent Rogers, Sonia Rykiel, Carla Sozzani, Elsa Schiaparelli, Barbra Streisand, Diana Vreeland, Vivienne Westwood, Anna Wintour.

Whether extrovert or esoteric, they are figures that keep visual language vital. Their style, imagination, creativity, talent, vision and voice have changed our landscape.”

He continued: “When I look around Paris, it isn’t the depth of the city that takes my breath away. It’s the decoration and the applied ornamentation that dazzles. It is not about thinking, it is about feeling. There may be no deeper sensation than this when it hits. While designing this collection the same instinct gathered momentum. I take pleasure from things for exactly what they are, revealing in the pure adornment of beauty for beauty’s sake. Connecting with something on a superficial level is as honest as connecting with it on an intellectual level.

TO THE SHOWGIRL IN ALL OF US.“

Speaking of which, many of the forty-one extremely dark looks resembled showgirl clothes, all exquisitely embellished with jet beads, crystals, and glossy feathers. Each and every one of the models wore an amazing headpiece of ostrich plumes designed by Stephen Jones for the show. The first look was pretty evocative, nothing but a G-string and the Stephen Sprouse-designed LV logo showing all over the model’s body, along with handcuffs and chains.

The biker jackets and denim pants were amazing, something you are dying to have in your closet. I love the collection and Marc’s creativity, it might not be commercial, but it is definitely for the showgirl in us!

Never forget, it was Jacobs who brought Louis Vuitton’s foray into prêt-à-porter to a huge success, and whatever the behind-the-scenes speculations of the past few months, he appears to be leaving on good terms. I was backstage and started crying like everybody else after all those heartfelt hugs.

Marc said that he wants to focus on his own Marc Jacobs brand. And I think, the announcement will be coming out soon that Nicolas Ghesquière will replace him at Louis Vuitton. So watch out!

LoL, Sandra

Marc’s last finale…

… and heartbreaking moments backstage.

Having fun behind the scenes: Sofia Coppola and Dakota Fanning

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Before the Paul & Joe S/S 2014 show, I was invited to go backstage and interview the lovely Sophie Albou, the mastermind behind the French brand. I got really spoilt last night as I had been already greeted at the entrance with a wonderful surprise, a bag, and on my seat, flowers were waiting for me. Thank you!

Sophie, what was your inspiration for this season?
I was completely inspired by the early 90s work of photographers Gilles Bensimon and Hans Feurer. Imagine Elle MacPherson and Stephanie Seymour wearing sheer shirts, 501 denim, patchwork, mix of fabric… my main idea comes from those photos. Women beautiful with curves, I think we are ready to go back. I am fed up with the skinny girls. I would love to see happy girls, curvy girls.

Your secret to success?
To do what I do, being surrounded by beautiful people. I love my mum, she is my muse, my husband, my kids. I am so gifted that I have such a great family.

You named your label after the first names of your sons? Have they ever complaint?
My sons are great, they are proud of their mum and are happy with it.

Sophie in 3 words!
Happy, smile, thank you!

Your best kept beauty secret?
Love

Thank you, Sophie!

Backstage with Lindsey Wixon who adored the look she was wearing on the catwalk.

This sweater is extremely gorgeous! My must-have!

“Spring/Summer is about harmony with pure Parisian attitude”. Masculine oversized pants, short and boxy, drop shoulder trenchcoats (gorgeous!) along with maxi dresses and short skirts show the nonchalant vibe that is leading Sophie Albou’s collection. A “no stress” elegance is her motto, focusing on natural femininity.

The accessories such as woven backpacks, basket bags and studded leather flats are laid back and complementing the looks in a cool way. The must-have of the ’90s, the silk scarf knotted at the waist, has made its comeback on the Paul & Joe S/S 2014 runway.

A beautiful and extremely wearable collection. Thumbs up!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Paris Fashion Week has started off for me with the Akris S/S 2014 show yesterday evening. I have to admit arriving at my seat is always a treat at this presentation, some yummy chocolate is waiting and the press kit is just perfect.

A sketch by Albert Kriemler with a piece of real fabric pinned to it, plus the inspiration laid out in a moodboard (sandstone lines, algae, honeycombs in the sand, and granite curves) along with a list of all the upcoming looks make my work so much easier.

This eye for detail could also be seen in the stunning collection. Nature was Albert’s main inspiration (something that has been spotted quite a lot here in Paris). “It’s a dream of fabrics and nature – moved forward through technology,” he wrote.

The show started off with some very strong prints on cotton voile, plissé chiffon and leather, inspired by sandstone lines. I loved the see-through and asymmetrical details of the collection and the amazing St. Gallen embroideries in honeycombs of lace, reminiscent of algae. The last pieces in black and gold wave jacquard will surely fly off the shelves.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Akris and © Sandra Bauknecht

“My Spring 2014 Collection celebrates a simple purity of clean lines and structure with a nod to the bold spirit and playfulness of swinging London in the late Sixties.” – Ralph Lauren

America’s grand seigneur of fashion added a wonderful modern and young twist to his S/S 2014 collection. I loved those knee socks and little Mary Janes in the beginning of the défilé. He showed a lot of black and white looks, very elegant and sophisticated as we know Ralph Lauren.

When colour appeared in the second half of the presentation on the runway, it was eye-catching bright. From cobalt blue to lime green and acid yellow, those hues looked extremely beautiful on the many gowns that walked down the runway. My favourite was Karlie Kloss‘s cobalt-blue strapless long dress in which she certainly made an entrance.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Collection and © Sandra Bauknecht

Last week, I attended the Diesel Black Gold S/S 2014 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Terminal in New York City, such an amazing location to host a runway presentation.

For Andreas Melbostad‘s second season, he describes his inspiration like this: “A new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness”. The collection evolves its iconic staples to include a new, courageous fragility: metal eyelets, discs, zippers, buckles and hardware accents introduce luxe industrial elements, for a range of pieces, from leather to georgette. Lighter, softer materials – silk crepe de chine, silk georgette, cotton poplin, cotton voile – are juxtaposed against the collection’s utilitarian core of leather and denim.

I love the jeans that come with a more slouchy fit at the hips and deep rolled cuffs at the ankle. A pastel leather moto jacket will definitely be on my wish list. The only question is white, icy blue or baby pink?

LoL, Sandra

Designer Andreas Melbostad whom I met the first time this spring in Zurich (For the previous post, please click here please).

Front row: Renzo Rosso framed by Coco Rocha to the left and Kanye West to the right

Photos: Courtesy of Diesel Black Gold and © Sandra Bauknecht

“The easy glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s — inspired by Romy Schneider’s character in La Piscine — mixed with garden elements. Blueprint, botanical, lattice, Queen Anne’s lace and folly prints are paired with cleaner silhouettes and proportions in a fresh palette of green, white and coral.” — Tory Burch

Tory Burch referenced Romy Schneider in La Piscine and came up with a beautiful vintage vibe for S/S 2014. Inspired by the late 1960s, the pretty looks that came down the blue pool-like runway at New York Fashion Week last Tuesday, offered luxurious lace and florals, outstanding embroideries, botanical prints and needless to say, Tory’s iconic statement accessories.

Personally speaking, being so ultra-feminine, elegant and wearable, it is one of her best collections to date.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tory Burch and © Sandra Bauknecht

Going backstage before the Michael Kors S/S 2014 show was a truly great experience as I was able to explore the newly launched collection of amazing makeup products, body and sun care, and three new fragrances, set to launch in Switzerland in October 2013.

The look was all about the American designer’s beloved healthy glow and the new bronzer compacts were bringing the colour to the models’ cheekbones. Makeup artist Dick Page explained his inspiration for the runway make-up look and told me more about the new range, which is divided into three different “moods”, so-called SPORTY, SEXY, and GLAM, one to represent each of the Michael Kors woman’s changing moods.

“Very cool and downplayed, probably the cleanest look I’ve done in a while,” Dick Page told me. “The look is clean and warm. The collection has sort of 40s elements to it, so we didn’t want to get too ‘costumey’.”

He goes on: “I am mixing the two bronzers, using the SPORTY one ‘Glow’ for the general warmth on the face and the SEXY one ‘Flush’ on the cheeks almost like a blush accent. For the lips, I took the berry shade ‘Dame’ from the GLAM collection which is first painted on with a lip brush, then blotted and powdered over with a light tan eye shadow to diffuse the colour to the edge of the mouth, just for a hint of the shade. I also used the same eye shadow like a sort of concealer around the eye.

When I created that look, I was kind of thinking black and white, tone and structure of the face, something healthy, relaxed animated. Very confident, very Kors. Michael likes a lot of energy.”

Manicurist Jin Soon Choi, that I have had just met at Tibi backstage at few days ago, was applying the perfect nude nail polish ‘Hint’ from the SPORTY collection onto the models’ hands and feet, a sophisticated nail tone perfect for all skin tones.

The three new fragrances are:

SPORTY CITRUS – For the confident woman.
A crisp scent with orange and mandarin at the forefront, while warm woods and white florals linger in the background.

SEXY AMBER – For the seductress.
It puts the spotlight on sumptuous amber wrapped in sandalwood and musk, against a bright backdrop of dazzling orange, mandarin and white florals.

GLAM JASMINE – For the lady who likes to turn heads.
Giving center stage to Kors’ beloved floral note, jasmine, while warm woodsy notes and sparkling citrus are less prominent, the fragrance is overtly feminine.

Michael Kors with American television personality Joan Rivers backstage before the show.

After all those backstage photos, you might be interested in how the collection looked like on the runway. Here we go with my favourite looks. Are you sexy, sporty, or glam? With Michael Kors’ new fashion must-haves, your entire closet can match your personality according to your mood. The designer has created one of his best collections ever, with colours to match whichever occasion you choose. Two things not included? Michael Kors replied: “No flip-flops and leggings.But the collection is glamourous and practical at the same time.” And I am sure it will sell out fast… front row A-listers Kate Mara and Katie Holmes looked like they wanted to have every single piece. Get in line, ladies, we all want Michael!

LoL, Sandra

Runway Photos: Courtesy of Michael Kors, All Backstage Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

“Spring 2014 combines East Coast prep with West Coast ease. It’s Melrose to Malibu. The West Coast represents a golden era of surf, sport, and optimism.” – Tommy Hilfiger

Vibrant, beautiful colours appeared on the Tommy Hilfiger S/S 2014 runway, that was created like a beach scenery with sand dunes, surfboards and lifeguard chairs. When the cheerful music started, the audience was moving on their seats to the beats of Red Hot Chilli Peppers’ song “Californication” and “California Girls” by the Beach Boys. The outfits were stunning, perfect for all surfer girls among you.

Personally speaking, the wetsuit was a great inspiration. Cool, modern, with a certain twist. As the American designer describes his collection: “I revisited iconic elements of California style – the polo, barracuda jacket, sports jersey, and bowling shirt – and reinvented them with the relaxed spirit of the West Coast in mind. From softly tailored denim and chambray to our signature Hawaiian prints to innovative neoprene-bonded leather, the season captures the ease and youthful attitude of Cali style.”

Having seen this amazing collection, I actually never want summer to end… It is surely going to be a huge hit among the cool kids!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger and © Sandra Bauknecht

Sunday afternoon, Thakoon Panichgul showed his S/S 2014 collection, which was soft, delicate and very feminine. A lot of all in white looks, something that I have spotted quite often during the last days at New York Fashion Week.

I have especially adored the long pearl chains on Thakoon’s bags, created in collaboration with the Japanese jewelry company Tasaki, with whom Panichgul has a long-running partnership. Before the show started, I was able to explore the collection backstage. Funnily enough, I arrived with Anna Wintour at the same time.

It was great to see Thakoon again whom I had met for the first time in London at the Net-à-porter headquarters two years ago (For the previous post, please click here).

Lead Artist Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics created a look that was ”all about a beautiful fresh look for spring.” A little bit of spot concealing, she worked mainly with the new three matte multiples that will be newly launched for Spring 2014. So beauty addicts, it is time to get excited!

FACE: Sheer Glow Foundation
NEW Anguilla Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)
NEW Cappadoce Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

EYES: Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara

BROWS: Bali Eyeshadow

LIPS: NEW Laos Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

Stay tuned for more from New York Fashion Week coming up soon!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Style.com