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Pieter Mulier Leaves Alaïa – And I Couldn’t Be More Excited for What He’ll Do at Versace

There are designers who simply take over a house, and then there are those rare creative minds who truly understand its soul while still moving it forward. Pieter Mulier belongs firmly in the latter category.

Born in Belgium in 1976, Mulier originally trained as an architect, something you can still feel in his work today. His designs often have a structural clarity, a precision that shapes the body rather than just dressing it. Before stepping into the spotlight himself, he spent years working alongside Raf Simons, assisting him at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein, quietly building a reputation as one of fashion’s most respected creative collaborators.

But it was his appointment as creative director of Alaïa in 2021, becoming the first creative director since Azzedine Alaïa’s passing, that truly revealed the depth of his talent.

With the late Azzedine Alaïa in his Parisian kitchen in 2015.

Taking over a house as legendary as Alaïa is no easy task. The brand has always stood for sculptural silhouettes, technical mastery, and a very particular idea of femininity, strong, sensual, and timeless. What impressed me most about Mulier was his ability to preserve that unmistakable signature while gently modernizing it. His collections never felt like nostalgia, yet they were always unmistakably Alaïa.

I also have a very personal memory connected to Pieter. I met him as guest of NET-A-PORTER when he presented his very first collection for Alaïa and that encounter stayed with me. He is not only incredibly talented, but also genuinely warm, thoughtful and approachable. There is a quiet intelligence about him, a calm confidence that feels very authentic. After meeting him in person, his creations resonated with me even more. Knowing the person behind the work added another layer of meaning.

Visiting the beautiful retrospective of Alaïa designs at 4, rue de Verrerie, 75004 Paris.

Azzedine Alaïa himself, whom I met on several occasions, was also an extraordinary human being, full of generosity and vision. And I truly feel that Pieter understood that legacy, not by copying it, but by translating it into his own language. He honored the spirit of the house while speaking in a voice that was entirely his own.

Display of Pieter’s first collection for Alaïa in store.

On a personal note, one of the changes I appreciated most was the introduction of French size 34. It may sound like a small detail, but for many petite women, myself included, it made the brand significantly more accessible. Suddenly, these beautifully constructed pieces felt not only aspirational but wearable.

My Look: Cocktail Hour (October 2023)

And wearable they were. Over the past five years, Alaïa has easily become one of the labels I’ve purchased the most. Season after season, Mulier delivered designs that felt intelligent, emotional, and incredibly refined. There was always a sense of discipline behind the beauty, nothing excessive, nothing forced.

My Look: New! (May 2022)

He managed something very few designers achieve: evolution without disruption. New shapes, new proportions, both unmistakably modern.

My Look: Life Is Too Short To Wait (September 2023)

Which is exactly why his move to Versace feels so exciting.

Versace is a house built on confidence, glamour, and bold sexuality, but in recent years, it has arguably lacked a clear creative direction. Donatella Versace, who had been at the helm since 1997, announced her departure as Creative Director in March 2025, transitioning to the role of Chief Brand Ambassador. Her exit marked the end of an era for the brand she helped shape for nearly three decades.

Following her departure, Dario Vitale, formerly the Design and Image Director at Miu Miu, was appointed as Versace’s Creative Director on April 1, 2025. His tenure was notably brief, culminating in a single runway show presented during Milan Fashion Week in September 2025. While some praised his fresh approach, others felt it deviated too far from Versace’s iconic aesthetic. Ultimately, his stint ended in December 2025, just months after it began.

With Pieter Mulier in Paris

Now, with Pieter Mulier stepping in, the brand is poised for a revitalization. His architectural sensibility and respect for brand heritage position him as a promising fit to steer Versace into a new era. If he could balance heritage and innovation so masterfully at Alaïa, imagine what he might do with a brand that thrives on spectacle.

My Look: August (August 2025)

Personally, I cannot wait to see what he creates. Fashion is always at its most thrilling when the right designer meets the right house at exactly the right moment and this feels like one of those moments.

If his time at Alaïa proved anything, it is that Pieter Mulier doesn’t just design clothes. He builds worlds. And I have a strong feeling that Versace is about to become a very exciting one.

LoL, Sandra

My Look: London (April 2023)