My Look: Lesage

«Embroidery is to Haute Couture what fireworks are to Bastille Day.» – François Lesage

I love CHANEL‘s Métiers d’Art collections, that are always a visual treat for the senses, showcasing the craftsmanship for which the luxury house is revered. Those runway shows take place each year outside the traditional fashion schedule.

The name itself reveals it: Métiers d’Art means «art professions». They are considered demi-couture, right between ready-to-wear and haute couture; although the designs are not bespoke, their ornamentation and craftsmanship rely on couture techniques. The collections and their elaborate themes are brought to life by the small specialist workshops that CHANEL began buying in 1984, in order to preserve the expertise and craftsmanship associated with French luxury, among them the buttons and accessory maker (Desrues), costume jewelers (Goossens), embroiderers (Lesage and Montex), feather and flower makers (Lemarié), milliners (Maison Michel), shoemakers (Massaro) and so on. Today these ateliers have become essential to the everyday running of the fashion house, providing CHANEL with everything from lace to embroidered buttons.

For the Métiers d’Art collection 2020, named Paris – 31 Rue Cambon, Virginie Viard, who was with CHANEL’s haute couture department for more than 30 years before taking the helm as the Maison’s creative director in 2019, brought the show back to the legendary designer’s apartment, creating the magnificent set-up that placed emphasis on Coco Chanel’s famous mirrored staircase.

Her favorite look of the collection was number 34, and it was also mine. It is a piece of art, created using the intricate trompe-l’œil embroidery done specifically at the ateliers of Lesage, and the attention to detail is undeniable.

The story began in 1858, when Charles Frederick Worth opened his haute couture fashion house, and started making use of the prodigious talent of the embroiderer Albert Michonet, whose studio was purchased by Albert and Marie-Louise Lesage in 1924. This was the beginning of a period of fruitful and close collaboration with the best-known names of the time. They introduced tambour embroidery to the studio using the Lunéville technique, which could respond to the voracious demand for beaded and sequinned gowns during Les Années Folles.

In 1949, on the death of his father, François Lesage (1929 – 2011) took over management of the company at the tender age of 20. For 50 years, he has cleverly combined the skills of a traditional craft with meeting the pioneering requirements of the new generation of fashion designers. In 2002, the company became part of the CHANEL family.

Coming back to Look 34, that I am wearing in this outfit post. It features the Lunéville technique that involves using a crochet hook to chain stitch small decorations (black and gold beads) to the underside of the fabric. In this case, over 25,000 gold beads and 35,000 black tube beads are used to form the embroidered braids, before the seamstresses at the tailleur atelier carefully place them along the edges and cuffs of the wool tweed jacket and trousers. The classic handbag was created to complement the look, crafted in the same red-and-black wool tweed and finished with the embroidered braid detailing all around the edges.

Why am I explaining all of this to you? Those pieces are one-off creations that continually push the boundaries to showcase the fine arts that are only alive and well today because of CHANEL’s continued patronage. If you love fashion, you will appreciate the craftsmanship of those eternal items. This look is very dear to my heart.

My look: Tweed jacket with embroidery, matching tweed pants, and classic handbag, layered pearl necklace with bows, and two-tone slingback shoes, all by CHANEL (Look 34 Métiers d’Art 2020 Paris – 31 Rue Cambon),  velvet and Leavers lace-trimmed stretch-tulle halterneck bodysuiticon, and gold-tone, enamel and faux pearl clip earrings, both by Saint Laurent, and Carretto-print face mask, by Dolce & Gabbana.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Biedert Photography
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise. 

Mary Katrantzou for Beyoncé

Beyoncé wore Mary Katrantzou for the single «Water» featuring Pharrell Williams and Salatiel, in her latest visual album «Black is King», styled by Zerina Akers.

The piece was inspired by electric lightning storms and the painterly colours in the sky after rain. A mix between sunrise and sunset.

The dress is a tech-organza base, selected for its high iridescence and intense shine, printed with a multicolour «rave cloud» which has merging colours of fuchsia, peach, citrus, ocean blue and sea green.

Hundreds of laser-cut oyster ruffles are then tulle bound by hand in correlating colours, amounting to around 500 meters. These are hand tucked into place to create the perfect form of sculpted ruffles. The ruffles are print placed to make the dress bleed from colour to colour across the body.

The embroidery consists of stacked micro sequins and crystal, built up in a 3D style which give them an ombré effect. This is accompanied by thousands of singular ostrich feathers, which are hand dyed in ombré colours, grading to up to three colours in each strand. They are then matched to correlate with the perfect place in the print, to mimic the soft drift of clouds after a storm. The embroidery was partly done in India, with finishing touches by our London atelier, amounting to 7 days of embroidery work on the dress.

Beyonce wore the finale look from the F/W 2019 collection, draped around her shoulders. Also looks 34 & 35 were featured in the same video.

For bespoke enquiries please contact .

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Mary Katrantzou

The Jacket Everyone Will Be Talking About

Gucci_Jacket_Musthave

Everybody will be talking about GUCCI’s embroidered denim jacket this season. And not only because Rihanna wore it recently in Los Angeles. The object of desire is from the brand’s pre-fall 2016 collection.

Personally speaking, I am anyway deeply impressed by Creative Director Alessandro Michele. With his appointment, the Italian House has gone to new strengths. Everywhere you look, you see the brand’s must-have pieces, on the streets or on many celebrities.

4b688329d83dcb5744d1f14b7c83eed4

Embellishments, especially in the form of embroideries, play a very distinctive part in Michele’s collections. This denim jacket comes with a mix of birds, butterflies and flower applications. My favorite is the back where a huge tiger head graces the jacket along with the printed phrase graphics “l’aveugle par amour” which translates to “love is blind“. That, paired with a shearling lining, makes the piece an instant hit and will for sure turn heads this season.

TO SHOP THE EMBROIDERED DENIM JACKET, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci, Xposure
icon

At the Peter Pilotto S/S 2015 Show

At the Peter Pilotto SHow SS15

During London Fashion Week, I attended the Peter Pilotto S/S 2015 show which was one of my favorites. A colorful, fun collection for all rainbow warriors among us.

Sandra Bauknecht in Tom Ford at the Peter Pilotto ShowMe at the show

Technicolor tones and psychedelic cyber florals, the ’70s-tinged presentation ventured beyond prints with paisley macramé straps, black dresses decorated in neon jacquards, and handkerchief silhouettes rippling with iridescent organza.

Great news is that you can pre-order this amazing collection until October 9, 2014 at 10am EDT. In this post, I pre-selected the best pieces for you. Just click on the highlighted text to be transferred directly.

(In the cover collageEmbellished Black Denim Hendrix Mini Dress )

Peter Pilotto 000

Peter Pilotto - Look 13

Pink Astro Crop Top iconand Pink Astro Skirt
icon

Peter Pilotto 00

Pilotto Look17

Embellished Acid Pink Paisley Dress icon

Peter Pilotto 0

Peter Pilotto Look 19

Embellished White Phoenicia Dress icon

Peter Pilotto 1

Peter Pilotto Look 21

Embellished Hologram Tessera Dress icon

Peter Pilotto 3

Peter Pilotto Look 26

Embellished Multi Denim Hendrix Coat iconand Embellished Black Denim Rope Skirt icon

For my Swiss readers, check out Trois Pommes – The Store, they sell a great variety of Peter Pilotto (below you can see the designer duo at the show finale).

LoL, Sandra

Peter Pilotto

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: Courtesy of Moda Operandi

Best Collection for S/S 2014: Valentino

Valentino S:S 2014 Runway Show- Sandra Bauknecht

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are a dream team and their S/S 2014 collection for Valentino is a divine piece of art (You can still watch the video here).

Like last season, when I had been already overwhelmed by their designs, they showed craftsmanship, sophistication, elegance and beauty in their 72 (!) looks on the runway. After an impromptu visit to the Rome Opera workshops, the duo was compelled to create a glamourous and opulent repertoire. The collection is a journey admits elements borrowed from imaginary ethnic groups. Embroideries, lace, capes, ponchos, fringes, leather, veil-like dresses, take all part in this outstanding collection.

Combining ancestral austerity and sensual opulence, the designer duo has created an amazing and ever-changing look based on today’s modern woman that we will surely spot everywhere on the streets next summer!

Valentino Tote SS2014 Light Cuir Vachetta Medium Stamped icon

Great news is that you can PRE-ORDER THE AMAZING VALENTINO ACCESSORIES STRAIGHT OFF THE RUNWAY iconfor the next 5 days. I included the best ones in this post.
Happy pre-shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Valentino SS2014

Valentino Gold Minaudière SS2014Gold Gryphon Miniaudiere icon

valentino-rs14-Look3

Valentino Ankle Boots SS2014

Black Vitello Fringe Ankle Boot icon

valentino-rs14-SS2014

Valentino Clutch SS2014Light Emerald Patent Croc Scarab Finger Clutch icon

valentino-rtw-ss14-runway-15jpg

Valentino Bootie SS2014

Black Rete Embroidered Bootie icon

valentino-rtw-ss14-runway-36_

Valentino Bracelet SS2014

Light Cuir Vitello Scarab And Gryphon Wrap Bracelet icon

valentino-rtw-ss14-runway-37

Valentino Sandal SS2014Chocolate Vitello Gryphon Sandal icon

valentino-rtw-ss14-runway-41

Headband Valentino SS2014

Rubin Studs Crown Hair Band icon

valentino-rtw-ss14-runway-67

Photos: Courtesy of Valentino and © Sandra Bauknecht

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2014 – So Amazing

Mary Katrantzou S:S 2014

Personally speaking, there hasn’t been one collection, Mary Katrantzou hasn’t amazed me with. This season has been no different. For the motif mistress, footwear prints walk a fine line between fashion and art. For S/S 2014, she was inspired by every woman’s love for shoes for her signature digital prints.

The collection’s evening looks were absolutely divine, and heavenly embroidered by the House of Lesage in Paris with which Mary had been working before already. Think ruffles, empire and baby doll cuts. Nothing for the shy! I am loving it!

Great news: YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO PRE-ORDER THE MARY KATRANTZOU S/S 2014 COLLECTION STRAIGHT OF THE RUNWAY FOR THE NEXT 6 DAYS BY CLICKING HERE.

LoL, Sandra

176634242CS00024_Mary_Katra

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-01-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-04-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-06-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-09-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-13-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-14-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-16-600x900

mary-katrantzou-ss-14-20-600x900

Photos: Courtesy of Mary Katrantzou, Style.com, © Getty Images

At the Tory Burch S/S 2014 Show

Tory Burch S:S 2014 Cover

“The easy glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s — inspired by Romy Schneider’s character in La Piscine — mixed with garden elements. Blueprint, botanical, lattice, Queen Anne’s lace and folly prints are paired with cleaner silhouettes and proportions in a fresh palette of green, white and coral.”Tory Burch

Sandra Bauknecht at Tory Burch Ss2014

Tory Burch referenced Romy Schneider in La Piscine and came up with a beautiful vintage vibe for S/S 2014. Inspired by the late 1960s, the pretty looks that came down the blue pool-like runway at New York Fashion Week last Tuesday, offered luxurious lace and florals, outstanding embroideries, botanical prints and needless to say, Tory’s iconic statement accessories.

1234548_10152048667730910_1810998114_n

Final walk Through SS2014 tory Burch

Personally speaking, being so ultra-feminine, elegant and wearable, it is one of her best collections to date.

LoL, Sandra

23328554_max

23328560_max

23328547_max

23328530_max

23328565_max

23328527_max

23328515_max

Photos: Courtesy of Tory Burch and © Sandra Bauknecht

At Roberto Cavalli’s Gentlemen’s Club

Cavalli_MenF:W2013_Cover

According to Tim Blanks, the ninth-floor penthouse, where Roberto Cavalli presented his F/W 2013 men’s collection Sunday night in Milan, once belonged to the Gucci who was gunned down by his wife. Overlooking the rooftops of Milan, the spectacular views were the perfect backdrop for the outstanding presentation. Daniele Cavalli, who has been at the helmet of the menswear arm since two years, had a vision and transformed the amazing flat into a gentlemen’s club in impressive colours of purple and burgundy.

Cavalli_men_FW2013

Instead of a fashion show, the collection was presented on mannequins, next to the photos and videos created by well-known photographer Rankin. I totally liked that approach as you could truly look at all the details of the looks and believe me, there were many.

Cavalli_Men_FW2013_20

Precious fabrics, from crocodile-printed pony skin to all-over sequined embroideries, of course the uniqueness of a print, and Daniele’s strongest talent, the combination of all those eye-catching details (see all the photos below please).

Sandra_Bauknecht_Daniele_Cavalli

Daniele told me a little about his inspiration, that he used a teleidoscope, a kind of kaleidoscope, to create his very special prints, in form of kaleidoscopic patterns.

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-11a

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-10

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-17

So then, no fashion shows this season. The reason?
The runway and the long walk before the public and photographers enhances and highlights the spectacular nature of feminine seduction. The same does not apply to the male essence. On the contrary, this might be the motive behind the skepticism of many men towards fashion. This collection aims at celebrating male reality.

Suzy_menkes_Daniele_Cavalli

Many famous journalists attended the event, among them Suzy Menkes

Tim_Blanks_Daniele_Cavalli

… and Tim Blanks, who were both listening to Daniele’s vision.

Eva_Cavalli_Tim_Blanks

Eva Cavalli chatting with Tim Blanks

Cavalli_men_FW2013_GentlemensClub

Guests of the event were spoilt to all sorts of Cavalli Vodka drinks and enjoyed a musical performance of The Cyborgs. A fashion show that was more a fashion party in the world’s most stylish gentlemen’s club ever. Thumbs up!

Have fun looking at all the photos from the amazing night!

LoL, Sandra

Rankin_Alex

Photographer Rankin with Alex Postiglione

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-2

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-3

Cavalli_men_FW2013-9a

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-4

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-8

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-14

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-16

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-7

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-Shoes

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-Shirt

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-Shirt2

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-20

Me at work in the kaleidoscopic room where the accessories were presented.

Cavalli_Men_FW2013-Ambiance

Cavalli_Men_FW2013_Girlfriends

Cavalli_Men_FW2013_Vodka

Cavalli_Men_FW2013_TheCyborgs

Olivier-Zahm_Sandra_Bauknecht

Olivier Zahm (Purple magazine) with me
Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Shopping Alert: Isabel Marant F/W 2012

Isabel Marant F:W 2012

Wander West with Isabel Marant this fall, be the first to get your hands on her cool, city-ready cowboy shirts, embroidered jeans and more covetable footwear.

For the next three days, you have the privilege to shop exclusively these F/W 2012 runway items before they are available to all customers.

Just click on the highlighted product description below each item.
Happy shopping!

LoL, Sandra

Isabel Marant-1

Primo printed fur jacket

Isabel Marant-2

Kurt suede cut-out pumps

Isabel Marant-3

Rodwell tasseled mid-rise skinny jeans

Isabel Marant-4

Manet cropped jeans

Isabel Marant-5

Lauryn embroidered blouse

Isabel Marant-6

Berry ankle boots with cut-out appliqué

Isabel Marant-7

Lauryn embroidered blouse

Isabel Marant-8

Eminoy cropped suede trousers

Isabel Marant-9

Loli mini skirt

Photos: Courtesy of Mytheresa

Gucci Resort 2013

Gucci Resort 2013

Anne Hathaway grabbed attention yesterday at the European Premiere of The Dark Knight Rises in London in a stunning  shimmering gown from Gucci’s Resort 2013 collection. The long-awaited conclusion to Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy is released worldwide tomorrow.

Speaking of Gucci Resort 2013, Frida Giannini seeked inspiration from a glorious 60s and 70s inspired getaway in Capri. Filled with sophisticated and elegant silhouettes, the designer plays with the iconic Flora print. The colours are divine, from vintage-like sorbet shades to earthy tones of beige, brown and black. Embroideries and embellishments on the neckline resemble a summer bouquet. I would love to have every single look!

It is so Bon Chic. Bon Genre!

LoL. Sandra

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_3

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_4

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_06_CU

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_8

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_12_CU

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_10

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_10_CU

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_9

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_09_CU

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_15_CU

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_19

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_20

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_28

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_34

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_36

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_37

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_39

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_43

LB_ST31_CRUISE_WRTW_43_CUPhotos: Courtesy of Gucci and © Getty Images