Sandra‘s Closet

Graced with pearls, sequins and coloured leather, the Arceau watch appears decked out in festive finery inspired by Polish folk culture.

The Arceau watch created in 1978 by Henri d’Origny mingles classicism with singularity. Its round shape set on a stirrup lends itself to infinite expressions of creativity and expertise. Framed by this case with asymmetrical lugs, the Arceau watch embodies the Hermès style and highlights original forms of craftsmanship. Miniature painting, leather marquetry and sequins reinterpret the Costume de Fête silk scarf designed by Warsaw-born artist Jan Bajtlik.

Two versions – one in white gold, the other in rose gold – set with 82 diamonds feature a dial combining craft techniques as creative as they are demanding, expressed through colours varying according to two respective palettes. The lively, joyful equestrian motif is inspired by Polish folk culture. Illustrator, typographer and graphic designer Jan Bajtlik’s imagination is nurtured by traditional Krakow costumes and ornaments. His characters, animals and flowers draw on his native country’s popular art of paper cut-outs (wycinanki).

Miniaturised to dial size, the horse comes to life at the hand of Hermès artisans. Brightly coloured beads take shape on a sculpted metal base that is uniformly painted, a process punctuated by innumerable layers of micro-paint successively applied with a brush.

Emerging from this floral decoration, the spirited steed is revealed through equally meticulous piece of work: leather marquetry. Slim tesserae cut from different coloured leathers previously trimmed to just 0.5 mm thick are individually juxtaposed on the dial. This patient craftsmanship is complemented by delicately applied sequins. Six tiny, precisely selected shiny discs are pierced and sewn together with copper wire. As a final touch, the details of the harness are meticulously hand-painted on the leather.

Housed in a case measuring 38 mm in diameter, the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement reveals the finishing and the ‘sprinkling of Hs’ pattern adorning its bridges and oscillating weight through the sapphire crystal caseback. A sakura pink or electric blue Swift calfskin strap complements the lively tones of these two watches, respectively issued in 24-piece editions.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès
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Combining leather craft and watchmaking skills, HERMÈS has recently launched ARCEAU Cavales and SLIM D’HERMÈS «Les Zèbres de Tanzanie» wristwatches that are so beautiful I have to share them with you!

For these new must-haves, the animal motifs much beloved by the French Maison are expressed in colourful artisanal style through leather marquetry. An equestrian profile and zebra stripes form vivid leather patchwork patterns, meticulously assembled on the dial of the two models. Within the confines of this incredibly small space, the refined composition of tiny calfskin tesserae is a true work of miniaturisation. Hermès Red, Malta Blue or Graphite: the chromatic signatures of the Maison suffuse this combination of leather craft and watchmaking skills. These inherently rare white gold models are issued in limited series.

On an inch-perfect dial, the Hermès leather artisans compose a variegated work depicting a horse or zebra. Reduced to the format of a round case, these creations flaunt the radiant colours of slim leather fragments carefully selected, cut out and juxtaposed with all the skill and expertise of saddle-making and leather craftsmanship.

The leather marquetry technique calls for a meticulous approach extremely similar to that of assembling a watch movement. Made from full grain calfskin, the leather pieces are split to a thickness of around 0.5 mm, before each element composing the motif is accurate cut to its appointed size and shape. One by one, the artisan picks up these fragments and fits them on the dial to form the design. The ARCEAU Cavales and SLIM D’HERMÈS watches set the stage for the art of leather miniature work.

ARCEAU Cavales

«Hermès Red» and «Indigo Blue» are two iconic colours of the Maison interpreted through subtly varied leathers lit up by Capucine or Agate Red touches. After six hours of patient assembly by the artisan, the many-hued pieces form a patchwork reminiscent of slim poppy petals for one model, and a stylised camouflage pattern for the other.

A closer look shows the «Cavales» motif symmetrically revealed in the dial centre. Swept over by slender leaf-type hands, this micro-leatherwork creation forming the watch face is framed by a 41 mm-diameter white gold ARCEAU case. Its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs secure a smooth calfskin strap matching the dial colour. These two six-piece limited series are powered by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès movement driving hours and minutes hands.

SLIM D’HERMÈS
Les Zèbres de Tanzanie

The aura of refined understatement that is the Slim d’Hermès signature magnifies the striped coat of the zebra, in a creation adorned with leather marquetry as well as champlevé and miniature enamelling techniques. Framed by the ultra-thin case with its right-angled lugs and beautifully open dial, «Les Zèbres de Tanzanie» motif designed by animal artist Yves-Marie de Malleray in 2010 takes on a whole new dimension. Colourful stripes, composed of hand-fitted leather inlays, enhance the profile of the miniature-painted creature. The previously hollowed dial is filled with several layers of white enamel, interspersed with drying periods and firings in the oven. It is then hand-polished before the stripes are applied using an extremely fine brush and enamel powders mixed with natural essences. After 26 hours of enamelling and leather marquetry, the motif with its «Étoupe» and «Graphite» tones takes shape in contrasting matt and shiny surfaces. Slender baton-type hands sweep across this work of art, in step with the cadence set by the Manufacture Hermès H1950 ultra-thin movement with its micro-rotor. A matt alligator leather strap matches each of these three white gold variations, issued in 12-piece limited series.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon