Live Talk with Matchesfashion

Yesterday, I hosted a live talk on zoom with MATCHESFASHION and their Chief Commercial Officer Elizabeth von der Goltz about the newest trends, upcoming designers and must-have pieces available on the website.

I put together a summary of last night with all details and shopable links included. Just click on the highlighted text to be transferred directly. Enjoy!

NEW DESIGNERS

Kenneth Ize

iconKenneth Ize made his Paris Fashion Week debut for F/W 2020, showcasing a tribute to the beauty of West African artisanship. He initially launched his eponymous label at Lagos Fashion Week in 2013, then took a two-year hiatus to study at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna under the guidance of Hussein Chalayan; the experimental ethos of whom influences his exuberant use of colour. Now a shortlisted designer for the 2019 LVMH prize, Ize is recognised for his vibrant tailoring and casual separates, rendered in handwoven Yoruban aso-oke fabric and partnered with Austrian lace.

Kika Vargas

Bogotá-born Kika Vargas launched her eponymous label in 2010, fulfilling a lifelong dream inspired by childhood memories of watching her mother dress up. The designer studied fine art and fashion design respectively at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and Marangoni Fashion Institute in Milan, subsequently going on to work at Missoni, which she credits for igniting her love of colour. Ready-to-wear pieces are crafted locally in Colombia – think voluminous midi dresses with romantic ruffles and tiers alongside playful printed co-ords.

Lisa Folawiyoicon

Nigerian designer Lisa Folawiyo started her own fashion line in 2005 after purchasing 12 yards of Ankara textiles, batik-inspired wax-resist fabrics adopted throughout West Africa, and asking a local seamstress to create two skirts that she decorated herself. 15 years on, she’s the winner of the 2012 Africa Fashion Award and was included in the Business of Fashion’s 2015 BOF500 list. Her ready-to-wear collection fuses vibrant traditional patterns with contemporary silhouettes that are hand-finished by expert craftspeople – it takes approximately 240 hours to embellish a single garment with the label’s signature beads, sequins and crystals.

Lug von Siga

Gul Agis trained at the Marangoni Fashion Institute and Politecnico di Design in Milan and honed her skills in luxury fashion consultancy before launching Lug Von Siga, an anagram of her name, in 2010. Drawing influence from the storied heritage of her native Turkey, the designer explores womenswear through a contemporary lens, uniting charming design tropes with sophisticated colours to create elegant wardrobe staples with an inherently feminine spirit. Expect dresses, blouses and swimwear rendered in crisp cotton and finished with voluminous ruffles.

B Sides

Named after and inspired by the second side of a vinyl record, B Sides celebrates the imperfect and was built on founders Claire Lampert and Stacy Daily’s love of vintage jeans. The duo sources rare styles ranging anywhere from cowboys in Colorado to industrial rag houses, then re-work the material into modern silhouettes. New denim is woven by 19th-century family-run mills in Georgia and North Carolina, which stays true to the label’s effortlessly retro aesthetic. Expect flattering and timeless cuts that are given a playful twist through washes, distressing and upcycled patchwork.

Vaqueraicon

Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan and Bryn Taubensee celebrate the eccentric and unexpected with their New York-based label Vaquera, founded in 2013 and named in reference to DiCaprio’s nickname, the Spanish word for ‘cowgirl’. Collections explore the notion of ‘making fashion fan fiction’, subverting conventional sartorial codes and exploring the drama of exaggerated texture, oversized cuts and reworked wardrobe staples with innovative fabric pairings. Expect shirting, jeans, T-shirts and jackets with graphic accents and whimsical trims.

Homme Girls

Thakoon Panichgul launched multi-discipline platform HommeGirls in 2019 after a hiatus from the fashion industry, having paused his eponymous label two years earlier. The label champions the sophistication of androgynous dressing, originally founded as a specialist zine ‘dedicated to women who shop the men’s department’, later expanding to a collection of wardrobe staples inspired by the personal style of Katherine Hepburn, Grace Coddington and Brana Wolf. Expect oversized shirting, relaxed underpinnings and boxer shorts with cropped hems and raw edges.

Totême

Founded in 2014 by husband and wife duo Elin Kling and Karl Lindman, Stockholm-based label Totême offers refined pieces ideal for creating pared-back contemporary uniforms. Its minimalist aesthetic is composed of muted hues, fluid silhouettes and flattering loose proportions, harmonising to create considered ready-to-wear pieces which form the backbone of edited wardrobes. Expect borrowed-from-the-boys T-shirts, oversized coats and sweeping dresses in neutral colour palettes that will bring an understated yet elevated mood to weekday ensembles. And most importantly the most comfortable yet stylish footwear. There will also be an exclusive capsule collection coming up at MATCHESFASHION.

NEW DESIGNERS FOR F/W 2021

The Frankie Shopicon

Former journalist Gaelle Drevet launched The Frankie Shop in 2014 as a boutique in New York’s Lower East Side, offering a hand-picked curation of emerging labels that reflected her desire for classic pieces that transcend seasons and trends. In 2017, a second location was opened in Paris before the company branched out to create its own range of ready-to-wear, continuing the muted, elegant mood. Expect pared-back and practical loungewear rendered in earthy, natural shades.

Rejina Pyoicon

Central Saint Martins alumna and British Fashion Award winner Rejina Pyo founded her eponymous London-based label in 2014 and has since become a cult name among industry insiders, known for her architectural silhouettes and saturated hues. A design ethos of ‘bringing the extraordinary to the everyday’ is translated through staple silhouettes reimagined with artistic subtleties such as sharp cutouts, topstitching and sculptural buttons, largely inspired by the designer’s mother’s love of antiques. Expect inherently feminine codes underpinned by a perfect fusion of vintage and modernity.

Canada Goose

Founded in 1957, Canada Goose is known for making the world’s warmest coat, the Snow Mantra parka, and the original prototype was designed for Arctic explorers to withstand temperatures as low as -70 degrees Celsius. The outerwear is filled with sustainably sourced North American down feathers – the best natural filler for warmth-per-weight ratio with a reduced impact on climate change than artificial fibres. Each jacket champions the label’s made in Canada heritage and passes through the hands of 13 craftsmen, enduring rigorous testing to brave the harshest elements.

EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS AND CAPSULE COLLECTIONS

Loewe x Paula’s Ibizaicon

Loewe’s Paula’s Ibiza collection launched in 2016 after creative director Jonathan Anderson sought inspiration from Armin Heinemann’s famed Spanish boutique. Established in 1972 in the heart of Ibiza’s Old Town, the store’s curation takes cues from the era’s hippie revival, fusing a care-free attitude with Heinemann’s artistic vision, which swiftly became a sought-out hub for the island’s riotous bohemians such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino Garavani, and Freddie Mercury. Through this lens, Loewe presents a collection of laid-back wardrobe staples infused with Mediterranean charm.

Salvatore Ferragamo

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Salvatore Ferragamo is considered a benchmark of understated luxury, established in 1927 upon the founder’s return to Florence from Boston. Ferragamo honed his craft as a cobbler in Naples before setting up his made-to-measure workshop on Via Mannelli, which would see his avant-garde ideas manifest to critical acclaim, most notably Judy Garland’s ‘Rainbow 1938 leather and suede platform sandals and the iconic cork wedge heels. Now with a reputable expansion into ready-to-wear, the house celebrates classic Italian glamour with a distinctly feminine narrative – a reputation endorsed by collaborations with some of Hollywood’s most esteemed costume studios for over sixty years. Today launches a very special capsule collection dedicated to the iconic footwear pieces.

Loup Charmant
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Loup Charmant (which means charming wolf) is the soft separates brand launched in 2006 by designer Kee Edwards. Each piece is geared for all-day, everyday wear, through diaphanous fabrics and feminine lines. Soon there will be an exclusive capsule collection available at MATCHESFASHION.

Emilia Wickstead
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Years before Emilia Wickstead‘s dresses became a favourite on the red carpet, she began her training alongside her mother – a bespoke womenswear designer in their native New Zealand. After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2007, Wickstead moved to New York and gained experience working for some of the industry’s biggest fashion houses. In 2011, she showed her first collection at London fashion week and quickly garnered a following for her modern, ladylike aesthetic. Worn by a diverse collective of stars – from Alexa Chung to the Duchess of Cambridge – the designer’s elegant dresses and separates are recognisable for their sumptuous fabrics and sophisticated colour palette.
I personally love Emilia’s designs and am very excited for an exclusive beach capsule collection coming up on MATCHESFASHION.

Terry

Close friends Lucy Halfpenny and fashion photographer Brigette Clarke were inspired by their love of 1970s American poolside attire and long European summers to launch their beachy label Terry, after the pair met up wearing the same vintage terry-towelling bucket hat by chance. The Australian label offers carefree separates ideal for long summer days, reinterpreting sporty tennis pieces with an effortless, laid-back mood. Expect tie-front tops and gradient dip-dyed shorts realised in sunset shades that form a composed warm-weather capsule.

Emilio Pucci Beachwear

 Jet-set glamour doesn’t come much more established or recognisable than Emilio Pucci. The brand’s high-octane, 1970s-tinged aesthetic is beloved worldwide. My favorite when it comes to beachwear (just placed an order while writing this post). An exclusive summer capsule will launch soon. 

Isa Bouldericon

Born from a love of meticulous craftsmanship, Indonesian label Isa Boulder balances contemporary aesthetics with the values of small-scale production. Founders Yuli and Lia combine their expertise in architecture, business and fashion to create a comprehensive swimwear offering, with each piece made by local artisans in the label’s Bali studio using recycled Italian Lycra. Shape and fit are key considerations for every design, with flattering cutouts and strategically placed seams used to ‘seek out new ways to accentuate the female form’. Expect swimsuits and bikinis in earthy pastel hues and a very special capsule collection.

JEWELRY NEW DESIGNERS

Fry Powers
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After training at the Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, Allison Fry launched her jewellery line Fry Powers in 2018. She draws inspiration from a wide range of Modernist and Pop artists such as Ellsworth Kelly, Frank Stella, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. Each piece is locally crafted in the label’s New York studio from sterling silver and 14kt gold adorned with colourful hand-applied enamel for a mood-lifting touch. Keep an eye out for statement rings, necklaces and earrings in a spectrum of rainbow hues.

Laura Lombardi
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Raised between Tuscany and New York, designer Laura Lombardi combines the simplicity and warmth of Italian design with gritty industrial accents for her eponymous jewellery line, founded in 2010. Exaggerated proportions and elegant curvature underscore the collections, citing her background in sculpture, which are sustainability crafted by Brooklyn-based artisans and metalsmiths using recycled brass, upcycled charms and fastenings with a zero-waste gold-plating system. The result is a considered repertoire of spirited adornments, designed to be worn every day. Fun pieces for a great price.

FALLON

A vivacious, punkish and experimental spirit defines Dana Lorenz’s jewellery label FALLON, launched in 2007 in New York City. It blends statement proportions and industrial influences with dainty stones in classic cuts to create wearable pieces that can be mixed and matched, inspired by the drama of 1980s pop culture and customisable accessories. The result is a stone-smattered collection of earrings, bracelets and necklaces with chain-inspired accents.

JEWELRY EXCLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS

Jacquie Aiche x Cartier
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Jacquie Aiche’s design philosophy is to make every woman look and feel uniquely beautiful. Merging Native American gemstones with Middle Eastern influences, the designer’s signatures are delicate body chains, multi-layered necklaces and goddess-inspired amulets. Her special take on Cartier watches is exclusive to MATCHESFASHION.

Sophie Bille Brahe
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Sophie Bille Brahe’s understated gold jewellery has a celestial element that’s inspired by the work of her ancestor, the astronomer Tycho Brahe who discovered the constellation Cassiopeia. The Copenhagen-based founder honed her skills at London’s prestigious Royal College of Art and crafts the pieces by hand using traditional goldsmith techniques. Look to the label’s signature Croissant de Lune earrings, Peggy necklace and Tennis bracelet with graduated diamonds and pearls to lend a minimalist feel to everyday edits.

HOME EXLUSIVE COLLABORATIONS & CAPSULES

La DoubleJ x Laduréeicon

Street-style star, journalist and contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Wallpaper* magazines JJ Martin launched La DoubleJ in 2015, initially as a platform to sell her collection of vintage clothing. Soon, she began to create ready-to-wear pieces, working with top Italian textile manufacturers, such as Mantero, to use reissued vintage prints from their archives. More recently, the Milan-based brand has expanded to include homeware, collaborating with French pâtisserie Ladurée to create bold tableware  with charming motifs which explore archetypes of fertility and renewal.

Reflections Copenhagen
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Danish homeware label Reflections Copenhagen was founded in 2015 after Julie Hugau and Andrea Larsson discovered a mutual affinity for art and decór. The duo takes inspiration from the dynamic expression of the Art Deco movement, resulting in a refined homeware offering that fuses exquisite design with a dedication to impeccable craftsmanship. The innovative shape of each piece is designed to capture and manipulate light, creating an array of captivating shadows. Expect sophisticated yet functional ornaments such as vases and dishes, all expertly handmade using time-honoured techniques and created to last for generations.

Mrs. Alice
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Alice Naylor-Leyland founded homeware label Mrs Alice in 2019, celebrating the ritual of setting a table. Drawing on childhood memories of her mother’s enviable interiors and a fashion education at Istituto Marangoni, she unites old-world craftmanship with whimsical and contemporary details to create a collection of fantasy-inspired tableware designed to enrich the everyday occasions. Expect an exclusive selection of picnic hampers, all underscored with English charm.

TRENDS S/S 2021

The Joyful Everyday

Everyday pieces, from jeans to sleepwear, have been given a joyful spin by designers who are experimenting with bold, uplifting colours and prints.
From left to right: Flying Flowers-print silk-twill shirt dress by Valentino, polka-dot satin shirt and matching trousersicon, both by HalpernMassey tie-dye cashmere-gauze gown by Gabriela Hearst.

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Celebrating At Home

For those of us who can, this year is about entertaining at home. The aim is to go all-out and have some fun with uplifting colour and print – both in wardrobes and interiors.

From left to right: My look: Distressed logo-intarsia sweater in yellowicon, distressed open-weave wool sweater in black, and belted pleated mohair-blend skirticon, all by Prada, homeware by Gergei Erdei, Zina fringed silk-satin dressicon by Roksanda.

The Finer Things

As our focus shifts towards making every day special, timeless investments like fine jewellery replace occasion pieces as a luxury we can wear 24/7. There are pieces for every woman, no matter what her taste.

From left to right: Fine jewelryicon by Suzanne Kalan, diamonds by Shay, fun piecesicon by Eéra.

The Great Outdoors

As we seek open-air pursuits and a connection with nature, and spend more time outdoors connecting with friends, a wardrobe of practical pieces in which to face the elements is high on the agenda.

From left to right: Single-breasted water-repellent canvas trench coaticon by Bottega Veneta, striped mohair-blend sweater by Marni, teddy coat by Max Mara.

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Wardrobe Foundations

If you were to clear out your wardrobe and start again, these are the pieces you would buy first. They form the basis of our Wardrobe Foundations edit.

From left to right: Loafersicon by Fabrizio Viti, underwearicon by Rossell England, a white shirticon by Bourienne Paris X.

Denim Redefined

Upcycled chambray at Gabriela Hearst, reworked Levi’s at Valentino and vintage patchworking from new brand B Sides: we are viewing denim in a new light this season.

From left to right: 517 upcycled bootcut jeansicon by Valentino x Levi’siconVirginia sweetheart-neck linen-denim dressicon by Gabriela Hearst, single-breasted denim jacket, and straight-cut denim midi skirt, bothicon by Lemaire.

iconELIZABETH’S F/W 2021 RUNWAY FAVORITES

Elizabeth gave us a little outlook of what is coming up for F/W 2021. Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Gabriela Hearst for Chloé are among her favorite collections.

THREE INVESTMENT PIECES YOU SHOULD HAVE IN YOUR CLOSET

Elizabeth and I were asked what would be the must-haves for your closet and we agreed on the following three: A Bottega Veneta bag, a Burberry trenchcoaticon, and a Gabriela Hearst cashmere sweatericon.

In the end of the talk, I showed our guests my personal favorites available at MATCHESFASHION. Those looks will be posted shortly here on Sandra’s Closet. Stay tuned and happy shopping.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and © MATCHESFASHION
Courtesy of the respective brands
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.icon

Backstage at the Thakoon S/S 2014 Show

Thakoon SS2014

Sunday afternoon, Thakoon Panichgul showed his S/S 2014 collection, which was soft, delicate and very feminine. A lot of all in white looks, something that I have spotted quite often during the last days at New York Fashion Week.

Thakoon SS2014 Pearl bags

I have especially adored the long pearl chains on Thakoon’s bags, created in collaboration with the Japanese jewelry company Tasaki, with whom Panichgul has a long-running partnership. Before the show started, I was able to explore the collection backstage. Funnily enough, I arrived with Anna Wintour at the same time.

Thakoon Anna Wintour

Thakoon Backstage 8

Thakoon Anna Wintour 2

Thakoon Backstage 1

Thakoon Anna Wintour 4

Shoes Thakoon

Thakoon Location Show

Thakoon Sandra Bauknecht

It was great to see Thakoon again whom I had met for the first time in London at the Net-à-porter headquarters two years ago (For the previous post, please click here).

Nars Backstage at Thakoon SS2014

Diane Kendal at Work

Lead Artist Diane Kendal for NARS Cosmetics created a look that was ”all about a beautiful fresh look for spring.” A little bit of spot concealing, she worked mainly with the new three matte multiples that will be newly launched for Spring 2014. So beauty addicts, it is time to get excited!

Nars Thakoon Cheeks

FACE: Sheer Glow Foundation
NEW Anguilla Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)
NEW Cappadoce Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

EYES: Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara

BROWS: Bali Eyeshadow

LIPS: NEW Laos Matte Multiple (Launching Spring 2014)

Nars Thakoon Backstag e7

Nars Backstage Thakoon Makeup

Nars Backstage Thakoon

Nars Backstage Thakoon 3a

Thakoon Backstage 6

Stay tuned for more from New York Fashion Week coming up soon!

LoL, Sandra

Sandra Bauknecht Backstage Thakoon

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Style.com

Thakoon for Nars Nail Collection

Thakoon India

Get a taste of India with one of the season’s more vibrant collaborations, the designer Thakoon Panichgul of Thakoon has made a limited-edition series of six lacquers for Nars, who did the beauty look for his show, based on the brights from his S/S 2012 runway. “The prints in that collection were inspired by the rich color palette of India, the spices, the holy festivals,” Panichgul says. Please click here iconto shop Thakoon’s beautiful S/S 2012 collection and here for more  information on the designer.

Those new bold nail polishes shades are the perfect choice for your colourful statement in the new season.

Thakoon Nars

From left to right: Anardana (azalee rosa), Ratin Jot (orchid lilac), Amchoor (yellow), Kutki (light blue), Koliary (cyan blue)

The gorgeous shades will be available this month for CHF 32.- each. But there is one exception:

Lal Mirchi

Lal Mirchi (mandarin red) will only be available at NARS, 413 Bleecker Street in New York City.

ThakoonNails1On my nails: Kutki, my favourite shade of the collection. Light blue and turquoise are the must-have colours for your summer manicure!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Nars and Thakoon, © Sandra Bauknecht

Meet Thakoon Panichgul

Thakoon

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This week, I flew to London to meet very talented designer Thakoon Panichgul. He was in town for a very intimate trunk show and presented his amazing F/W 2011 collection in the Net-à-porter offices to his very loyal long-standing English customers.

The Thai-born, Omaha-raised designer who is based today in New York has been an early forerunner of mismatched prints. For him, it is all about the silhouette, about a certain nonchalance, a modern and sporty way to interpret couture. He has a talent for intricate detail and loves to play with construction.

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I had a really nice conversation with him. Thakoon is such a lovely guy. He told me that his passion for fashion started at a very early age because his mom and grandma were both seamstresses. He started his career first in production, then merchandising for J.Crew. Later on, he spent four years as a writer and editor for Harper’s Bazaar and took courses at Parsons School of Design. He also earned a business degree at Boston University. I would call this a very profound foundation to start a successful company which he did in September 2004. He has quickly become a shooting star to emerge from the New York fashion scene.

Chic Style Thakoon

His fan base is huge. Hollywood celebrities like Jessica Biel or Drew Barrymore and  fashion A-listers like Sienna Miller belong to it. His probably biggest supporter is Michelle Obama. America’s First Lady is often seen in Thakoon’s designs.

Michelle Obama loves Thakoon

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Nat&ThaThakoon thanked Natalie Massanet for giving him a voice. He explained: „First I did five pieces and thought it was a collection. Net-à-porter bought all of them and has been so supportive since then.“

Natalie Massanet answered: „We are all about great products!“
The founder of the well-known online platform Net-à-porter was like me crazy for the gorgeous sleeveless blazer in yellow and black.

Thakoon’s collection for F/W 2011 reminded me of Marie Antoinette as an African tribal warrior.
The designer kept the juxtapositions going in all ways. A long-in-back ball skirt worn with a checked puffy coat was among my favourite looks. See below some of the best looks. The pieces were a little big on me as they were the sample sizes.

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00040m Thakoonmantel


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00120mThakoonGilet

 

 

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I am so in love with Thakoon’s shoe collection for F/W 2011. All the pieces will be available at net-à-porter.com. If you don’t want to wait to own a piece, have a look at those gorgeous pieces from his S/S 2011 collection that are in stores now.

By the way, the party went on at Soho House Basement deep in the heart of Chinatown and London’s It-girls partied with Thakoon all night long.

Thakoon wish list

Please click here iconto shop Thakoon’s beautiful collection.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht