Sandra‘s Closet

Horsehair marquetry and engraving weave a unique and precious equestrian face-off.

Framed by white gold, a pair of noble steeds sculpted in braided horsehair and engraved in rose gold highlight the union between Hermès style and expertise. Like yin and yang, the majestic horses in contrasting shades are revealed in the slender setting of the 45 mm round case, enhanced by protruding lugs.

Created in 2015 by Philippe Delhotal, the Slim d’Hermès expresses the ver yessence of Hermès: a singularity composed of rigorous discipline and a fine balance. Its sleek lines that are both modern and timeless highlight the remarkable handcrafted creations evoking the light-hearted, playful imagination typical of Hermès.

The cover and dial of this one-of-a-kind pocket watch reinterpret the Masan & Masan silk scarf motif by Thai designer Terawat Teankaprasith. The ancestral art of horsehair weaving – masan meaning «braided horse» in Thai – consists in collecting the prolific water hyacinth, drying it in the sun, then weaving it by hand to create objects such as baskets, hats, and or animal figurines.

Inspired by this oriental basket-making technique, the Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan combines engraving and horsehair marquetry in a subtle interpretation of the equestrian world cherished by Hermès. To create the weave on the cover and dial, the craftsman meticulously selects different shades of horsehair, cuts them and then glues them one by one, patiently composing the motif. Subtly combining brilliance and contrast, the engraver brings the second horse profile to life, forming reliefs and depths in gold created using traditional burins and chisels.

An expression of Hermès’ expertise both in watchmaking and in leather craftsmanship, this elegant and singular watch is powered by an ultra-thin Manufacture H1950 mechanical self-winding movement, fitted with a alligator cord strap highlighting its golden tones.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Hermès
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Combining leather craft and watchmaking skills, HERMÈS has recently launched ARCEAU Cavales and SLIM D’HERMÈS «Les Zèbres de Tanzanie» wristwatches that are so beautiful I have to share them with you!

For these new must-haves, the animal motifs much beloved by the French Maison are expressed in colourful artisanal style through leather marquetry. An equestrian profile and zebra stripes form vivid leather patchwork patterns, meticulously assembled on the dial of the two models. Within the confines of this incredibly small space, the refined composition of tiny calfskin tesserae is a true work of miniaturisation. Hermès Red, Malta Blue or Graphite: the chromatic signatures of the Maison suffuse this combination of leather craft and watchmaking skills. These inherently rare white gold models are issued in limited series.

On an inch-perfect dial, the Hermès leather artisans compose a variegated work depicting a horse or zebra. Reduced to the format of a round case, these creations flaunt the radiant colours of slim leather fragments carefully selected, cut out and juxtaposed with all the skill and expertise of saddle-making and leather craftsmanship.

The leather marquetry technique calls for a meticulous approach extremely similar to that of assembling a watch movement. Made from full grain calfskin, the leather pieces are split to a thickness of around 0.5 mm, before each element composing the motif is accurate cut to its appointed size and shape. One by one, the artisan picks up these fragments and fits them on the dial to form the design. The ARCEAU Cavales and SLIM D’HERMÈS watches set the stage for the art of leather miniature work.

ARCEAU Cavales

«Hermès Red» and «Indigo Blue» are two iconic colours of the Maison interpreted through subtly varied leathers lit up by Capucine or Agate Red touches. After six hours of patient assembly by the artisan, the many-hued pieces form a patchwork reminiscent of slim poppy petals for one model, and a stylised camouflage pattern for the other.

A closer look shows the «Cavales» motif symmetrically revealed in the dial centre. Swept over by slender leaf-type hands, this micro-leatherwork creation forming the watch face is framed by a 41 mm-diameter white gold ARCEAU case. Its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs secure a smooth calfskin strap matching the dial colour. These two six-piece limited series are powered by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès movement driving hours and minutes hands.

SLIM D’HERMÈS
Les Zèbres de Tanzanie

The aura of refined understatement that is the Slim d’Hermès signature magnifies the striped coat of the zebra, in a creation adorned with leather marquetry as well as champlevé and miniature enamelling techniques. Framed by the ultra-thin case with its right-angled lugs and beautifully open dial, «Les Zèbres de Tanzanie» motif designed by animal artist Yves-Marie de Malleray in 2010 takes on a whole new dimension. Colourful stripes, composed of hand-fitted leather inlays, enhance the profile of the miniature-painted creature. The previously hollowed dial is filled with several layers of white enamel, interspersed with drying periods and firings in the oven. It is then hand-polished before the stripes are applied using an extremely fine brush and enamel powders mixed with natural essences. After 26 hours of enamelling and leather marquetry, the motif with its «Étoupe» and «Graphite» tones takes shape in contrasting matt and shiny surfaces. Slender baton-type hands sweep across this work of art, in step with the cadence set by the Manufacture Hermès H1950 ultra-thin movement with its micro-rotor. A matt alligator leather strap matches each of these three white gold variations, issued in 12-piece limited series.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon