The Burberry S/S 2019 Show – Kingdom

I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection. From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved. This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of
this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom.
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer

Yesterday evening, Riccardo Tisci presented his much-anticipated debut collection for BURBERRY with a show – of course live streamed on Instagram – that paid homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitude of Britain with 134 looks.

The collection
In front of an audience of creative industry, friends and family, the S/S 2019 collection for men and women, called «Kingdom», was unveiled at a new show venue in Vauxhall, South West London. The new collection celebrates the diversity and the heart of England – the melting pot of creativity and style traditions from the punk and rebellious, to the formal and refined, all co-existing together.  It serves for all, grandparents, parents and the kids. Capturing the breadth of what British culture represents today, the collection defines the visual language and lexicon for Burberry through new house codes and accessories.

The space
As the first model took to the runway the previously dark space was flooded with light, symbolising a new chapter for the fashion house. British materials and textures including concrete, mahogany wood and critter glass transformed the interior with moving walls in tonal brand colours forming small intimate view points for the audience.

The music
Models including Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, Stella Tennant, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson, Freja Beha Erichsen, Natalia Vodianova, Anok Yai and Cat McNeil walked to an exclusively designed soundtrack by Robert Del Naja from Massive Attack.

24-hour capsule drop
Pieces from Riccardo’s first collection for BURBERRY are now available to buy for 24 hours exclusively on Instagram, WeChat and physically at BURBERRY’s London flagship store, 121 Regent Street.

Personal opinion
I had been very curious about Tisci’s approach to BURBERRY and think he had a good start with the focus on tailoring. Although he has not fully arrived yet. Probably because he tried to cater for every taste, many looks were definitely on the commercial side and too much of a mixture between Prada, Céline, and of course Givenchy during his era.

I spotted a detaching waist on a couple of outfits which I quite like. The fabric combination of flowing materials with leather for skirts was definitely amazing. Many details were outstanding, like the umbrella harness or tie fixture. It is a collection where you have to look twice.

But personally speaking I preferred the second part of the presentation as it showed what Tisci can do best, mixing high and low. The print, that is echoing a Sex Pistols song, reading «why did they kill Bambi?» is fun as well as the portraits on pants and dresses.

Am I the only one or did anybody else see a resemblance between these lamp shade-inspired fringe- and crystal-adorned evening looks and Mary Katrantzou‘s designs?!

Nevertheless, as I am a dedicated fashion collector, I will surely get some pieces from this collection. But not from the 24h Instagram sale, as I find the choice pretty disappointing. Too commercial for my taste.

Enjoy my favorite looks below…

I like this combination of different animal prints.

The sleeves are divine, the tailoring immaculate.

The Burberry stripes newly interpreted.

I like this one but somehow it has a little Vuitton touch for me.

Love this skirt!

My favorite look!

This shirt has a really cool twist. A real Tisci signature piece.

Not the biggest Kendall fan, but this Trench is amazing.

Cool umbrella harness

The fixture of the tie is totally great.

Favorite men’s shirt. I adore this pocket detail.

Such a cute dress.

Even though this could have been a typical Givenchy/Tisci look, I adore it for Burberry.

A must for every Swiss :-).

Second favorite look!

My next travel outfit.

Last look of the show – very elegant.

Looking forward to the next seasons to come! The more I look at the outfits, the more I like them. What about you?

TO SHOP BURBERRY ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.icon

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry

Burberry’s New Chapter

A few days ago, Burberry announced the launch of limited edition products through a series of 24-hour releases across its Instagram and WeChat channels, as well as in-store at its flagship on 121 Regent Street, which will be the only physical place in the world to house this collection.

The move is to mark the inaugural S/S 2019 collection for Burberry from new chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci which he will show on the 17th of September 2018 at 5pm as part of London Fashion Week. Surprisingly, Riccardo Tisci has announced this morning via an Instagram post that the first piece will be already dropping today – a black Thomas Burberry Monogram logo T-shirt which Riccardo wears in the post himself along with other celebs (see below).

It’s a new step in the see-now-buy-now era and it will be the first time the brand has created a bespoke digital selling experience for their social channels. This kind of «drop» culture is similar of the strategy applied in the streetwear market, whereby new pieces are released on given days, mostly for a short amount of time. The reason behind it is to drive hype around their exclusivity. Nowadays, the luxury industry is trying to jump in this same direction in order to increase the consumer appetite.

For Burberry, the initiative also marks another step towards a complete brand remake under Tisci’s fashion sense. The Italian designer has also recently introduced a modernized logo.


121 Regent Street reimagined:
Opening Saturday 15 September, Burberry’s London flagship store will be completely reimagined by Riccardo Tisci. In addition to the ephemeral, limited-edition product releases, the store will also be home to individually themed rooms which collectively celebrate the past and future of Burberry through product.

At the heart of the newly transformed space, will be «Sisyphus Reclined», a three-floor scaffold immersive and interactive commissioned art installation by British artist Graham Hudson. The Installation will remain in store until the beginning of October.

The #ThomasBurberryBear at Marble Arch, London

Last week, Burberry also confirmed that it will no longer use real fur starting with Riccardo Tisci’s debut runway collection for Burberry. The fashion house also announced that it will stop the practice of destroying unsaleable products, with immediate effect as part of its five-year responsibility agenda.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry
#ThomasBurberryMonogram #TheBSeries#mytshirt

Hubert de Givenchy Dead at 91

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

Burberry Hires Riccardo Tisci

The guessing is over! Breaking news… Burberry has named its new chief creative officer, effective March 12, 2018 and its is no other than Riccardo Tisci who succeeds Christopher Bailey after 17 years at the British fashion house.

Christopher Bailey’s final collection for S/S 2018 at Burberry pays homage to LGBT pride and was shown in London last month.

Tisci himself had been more than a decade creative director at Givenchy – modernizing  the Maison’s aesthetic for an entirely new generation of customers (for a previous post, click here please). Being known for his dark and subversive collections with religious and gothic references, he made Madonna, Rottweiler and Bambi sweaters popular and modernized floral prints.

In his new role, Tisci will be based in London and direct all of Burberry’s collections, presenting his first for the brand in September. A city where it all started for him at the age of 19. Born in Taranto in Southern Italy, fatherless and the youngest of nine siblings – all of whom were female – Tisci escaped to the British metropole and attended the prestigious Central St. Martins.

Marco Gobbetti

In 2005, Marco Gobbetti, who was president and CEO at Givenchy at that time, spotted the talent of «unknown» Tisci and hired him as a designer. We all know that this was a great decision as Tisci has transformed Givenchy’s womenswear, menswear and accessories into something uber cool. Now, Gobbetti seems to look for a revival as he is now Burberry’s chief executive.

Towards BoF, Gobbetti said: «Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time. His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury

«I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand,» added Tisci. «I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti.»

I cannot wait to see Tisci’s first collection for Burberry…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy and Burberry

Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and More

Industry speculations aren’t always so wrong as we can see now. Yesterday, Givenchy announced Clare Waight Keller, former creative director at Chloé, as the house’s new artistic director. Rumors have been out for months that she will be the first woman leading the French Maison. Waight Keller will oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as haute couture with the appointment becoming effective May 2, 2017. Her first collection for S/S 2018 will be shown in Paris in October.

Clare Waight Keller with me

The British-born replaces Riccardo Tisci, who left the LVMH-owned brand in January, reportedly for Versace, though that appointment has not been made official. With 12 years at the house, Tisci, who is Italian, enjoyed the longest tenure after founder Hubert de Givenchy himself.

HUBERT DE GIVENCHY’S CONFIDENT STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN INSPIRATION AND I AM VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE A PART OF THIS LEGENDARY HOUSE’S HISTORY.

I LOOK FORWARD TO WORKING WITH THE TEAMS AND WRITING A NEW CHAPTER IN THIS BEAUTIFUL STORY. “ CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

Natacha Ramsay-Levi

But who is following Wright Keller at Chloé? For the world of fashion a popular name, for others probably not: Natacha Ramsay-Levi who has been working along with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga whom she followed 2013 to Louis Vuitton. The French-born was in a relationship with fashion «enfant terrible» and «Purple»-founder Olivier Zahm, with whom she has a son.

New year, new designer moves… let’s keep the fashion world busy!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Chloé

Riccardo Tisci Exits Givenchy

Givenchy_Tisci_exists

This was breaking news this week, Riccardo Tisci is leaving Givenchy after 12 years with the brand and the house won’t show during Paris Fashion Week. His F/W 2017 menswear collection and S/S 2017 Haute Couture collection, shown together on the runway in Paris on January 20, were his last for the label.

00-things-to-know-riccardo-tisciRiccardo Tisci with Beyoncé photographed by Anton Corbjin for Vogue September 2015.

If you are one of Riccardo Tisci’s 1.8 million Instagram followers, then you probably already know that the Givenchy designer is loved by celebrities such as Beyoncé, Madonna, Rihanna and many more… Ticsi’s exit finishes one of the fashion industry’s longest and most successful appointments.

givenchy-sequin-dress-US-VOGUE-APRIL-2014-editorial-daria-werbowyGivenchy sequin dress and fox fur cape in US Vogue April 2014.

In the last year and a half, Dior, Valentino, Lanvin, Chloé, Saint Laurent, and more have seen their designers leave, which seems to lead to the fact that the short-term position for the creative director of around 3 to 4 years is becoming the new normal.

At the moment, the industry is changing anyway dramatically…

gallery-1486050006-1484834195-syn-hbz-1484814959-donatellaGivenchy ad campaign 2015 featuring Donatella Versace.

Concerning Tisci’s future, rumors are out that he will move to Versace, a brand that he has long expressed his admiration for, especially for the work of the late Gianni Versace. Ticsi has built up a close friendship with Gianni’s sister, Donatella, whom he invited to pose in a Givenchy ad campaign in 2015. Donated herself called Tisci’s F/W 2011 collection an homage to her brother. For a previous post, click here please.

To pay tribute to this fabulous designer, let’s indulge in some of his most amazing fashion moments, such as his famous Bambi sweater, his love for Rottweilers, and the most beautiful floral prints.

Sandra_Bauknecht_Givenchy

Have a look at some of my personal Givenchy highlights of the last years…
TRIBALWILD FLOWERON THE RED CARPET IN CANNESDANCING ON MULHOLLAND DRIVE DINNER AT L’ARC IN PARIS

For Riccardo Tisci, I think it is time to move on. Personally speaking, I have always been a great Givenchy fan, but change means new inspiration! And that is always good…

The fashion wheel is spinning again… let’s stay tuned!

Sandra-Bauknecht-in-Paris-Shopping

TO SHOP TISCI’S LAST COLLECTION FOR GIVENCHY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue, Givenchy and © Sandra Bauknecht

Kicks Start

Kicks Start

Givenchy’s Creative Director Riccardo Tisci has teamed up with Nike to create an exclusive collection of Air Force 1 basketball sneakers- a style of which he is a major fan. “I own about 125 pairs of the same Nike Air Force 1s,” he says of the iconic style that was first released in 1982.

Splashed with hues of orange, lemon, sky-blue and brown, they are cushioned for comfort and support. Isn’t the the tactile mix of rubber, faux suede and canvas just gorgeous?

LoL, Sandra

Nike + Tisci Air Force 1

Air Force 1 leather hi-top sneakers (ankle) icon

Nike + Tisci Air Force 1-2

Air Force 1 leather hi-top sneakers (knee) icon

Photos: Courtesy of Nike and Vogue

LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers

LVMH Prize Cover

Forty internationally renowned experts from the world of fashion (among them Jefferson Hack, Katie Grand, Natalie Massenet, Carine Roitfeld and Patrick Demarchelier to name a few) are to meet thirty applicants to the LVMH Prize during Paris Fashion Week.

They will select a short-list of ten young designers who will go forward to present their work to the jury in May 2014. Entries have already been received from all over the world, including Asia, Africa and South America as well as the United States and Europe, with many more anticipated before the closing date of February 2nd, 2014.

Jury LVMH Prize

The members of the jury for the first edition of the prize in 2014 are eight creative directors from LVMH Fashion Houses including: Nicolas Ghesquière (Louis Vuitton), Marc Jacobs (Marc Jacobs), Karl Lagerfeld (Fendi), Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Kenzo), Phoebe Philo (Céline), Raf Simons (Dior) and Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy).

The designers will be joined by Delphine Arnault, Jean-Paul Claverie (advisor to Bernard Arnault and head of corporate philanthropy for LVMH) and Pierre-Yves Roussel (Chairman and CEO of the LVMH Fashion Group).

YOU CAN APPLY HERE! Good luck!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Givenchy F/W 2012 Ad Campaign

GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FW12-13 AD CAMPAIGN 1-1

Givenchy’s Creative Director Riccardo Tisci asked models Stella Tennant, Joan Smalls, Stef van der Laan, Daniela Braga, Simone Nobili, Jarrod Scott, and Rodrigo Braga to come up with their best dance moves for the latest GIVENCHY RAVE ad campaign. Shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and styled by Carine Roitfeld. The clothes are divine, definitely on my shopping list this winter.

LoL, Sandra

GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FW12-13 AD CAMPAIGN 2

GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FW12- 13 AD CAMPAIGN 3

GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FW12-13 AD CAMPAIGN 4

GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FW12-13 AD CAMPAIGN 5Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy

Dog Fight

Are you a dog lover? What is your favourite breed?
Are you more a Balenciaga German Sheperd or a Givenchy Rottweiler?
Let the dog fight begin!

Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy’s Creative Director, chose prints of rabid-looking Rottweilers for his F/W 2011 Givenchy men’s collection that has also attracted many women, among them famous Liv Tyler who showed up in the same sweater as Kanye West during Paris Fashion Week.

Dog Fight 2

I love both, but I am completely thrilled for the Rottweiler. I like the 90’s gangster-style, hip hop attitude that comes with it. But probably it is because I grew up with those dogs even that I have to admit I am not their biggest fan. As for me, there are much more beautiful dogs in this world. But a Golden Retriever would never look as cool and stylish as a Rottweiler!

The Rottweiler Lover

Riccardo Tisci got photographed by Steven Klein for Interview magazine dripping with blood in a kind of macabre setting.

If you are interested, here is your last chance to get a Rottweiler T-shirt by Givenchy that is even on sale. Just click on the highlighted text!

And if you have a real dog, check out this product:

aesop_animal

Aesop Animal

A mild body and fur wash containing botanical extracts to cleanse even the most delicate animal skins and furs. Animal is formulated with the same research, development and care that we apply to our human product range. Enriched with Lemon Rind, Tea Tree and Spearmint Leaf extracts.

500ml, CHF 46 / £23

LoL, Sandra