Tribute to Christian Lacroix from Arles

While visiting Arles yesterday, I passed by a Christian Lacroix store (photo at the end of this post) which immediately caught my eye as I had completely forgotten about the fashion house after it had been sold by LVMH to duty-free retailer Falic Fashion Group in 2005.

Visiting Arles yesterday – an inspiration for today’s post.

I had been a big fan of flamboyant Lacroix’s designs and even got married in one of his couture dresses. Personally speaking, when Christian opened his Maison, I started actively being interested in fashion and his creations inspired me a lot of what I do today.

The story of Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix was born in Arles, Bouches-du-Rhône in Southern France. At a young age he began already sketching historical costumes and fashions. In April 1987, his dream came true and he founded his own fashion house in a private mansion at 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the heart of Paris. The House of Christian Lacroix was created by the Arlesian couturier and press agent Jean-Jacques Picart, with support from Bernard Arnault. Word quickly spread throughout Paris and Christian Lacroix’s name was on everyone’s lips.

A look from Lacroix’s F/W 1987 haute couture collection.

The following 26 July, Christian Lacroix unveiled his first Haute Couture collection for F/W 1987. This first collection was a radiant, opulent, virtuosic homage to the couturier’s roots; each look was infused with Mediterranean influences. The designer revisited traditional Arlesian outfits, drawing inspiration from the toreador’s cape. He highlighted southern France’s beauty, from the Camargue to Provence, in this 60-piece collection.

This first flamboyant fashion show was wildly successful, blowing the dust off the subdued world of 1980s high fashion and turning Parisian fashion of the day on its head. It was a departure from the minimalistic look of the influential Japanese designers en vogue at that time.

Christian Lacroix F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection

At a time when fashion was focused on simplicity, Christian Lacroix chose exuberance. When black became the standard, he opted for blood red, fuchsia pink and bright yellow.

With each new collection, Christian Lacroix designed pieces that combined unusual materials and colours, adorning looks with luxurious baroque touches. He brought back touches of folklore, history and theatre, infusing them with elegance and sophistication.

Very «Like a Prayer»: Anna Wintour chose for her first Vogue cover a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with a pair of jeans. It was photographed by Peter Lindbergh and  featured Israeli Model Michaela Bercu – US Vogue Nov 1988

Anna Wintour chose a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture jacket with a simple pair of jeans for her first American Vogue cover, photographed by Peter Lindberg in 1988. This look broke all the high fashion rules, pushing it into a younger and more liberated future.

After a spectacular debut, the Lacroix phenomenon spread as if propelled by the Mistral wind, and was soon featured prominently in all the most prestigious fashion magazines around the world.

Shalom Harlow in Christian Lacroix Haute Couture photographed by Bruce Weber for Vogue US, March 1995.

Throughout the 1990s, the brand continued to grow, diversifying its portfolio with household linen, tableware and more. This diversification continued to pick up speed in the following decade.

Between 2002-2005, Lacroix served also as the Creative Director for the Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci. He left on agreeable terms as he and the house believed that since he had other pursuits, it would be unfair to the house to not put in the energy required for future collections along with his other work.

Ad Campaign F/W 1997 featuring Karen Elson photographed by Paolo Roversi

In 2005, LVMH sold the House to its current owners, the Falic family, giving it new momentum as it explored other niches while continuing the House’s previous activities. In 2009, the fashion house put the business into administration and laid off all but 12 workers. Lacroix’s F/W 2009 Haute Couture was privately financed by Lacroix and each model was paid €50.

Final finale: Christian Lacroix and Vlada Roslyakova – Haute Couture F/W 2009

As Vogue editor Sarah Mower wrote: «It was one of the most poignant and emotionally fraught haute couture shows ever: a collection produced on a shoestring at the last minute, and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix

«I didn’t want to cry,» said Lacroix «I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this.» Lacroix said about his last Haute Couture collection. Throughout its history, the house never turned a profit and reported a €10 million loss in 2008.

When Christian Lacroix left his position as the House’s Artistic Director in late 2009, Sacha Walckhoff, who had worked at the House since 1992, was named Creative Director. Sacha continued the House’s transformation alongside President Nicolas Topiol, extending the creative focus to decoration and lifestyle collections.

Lacroix in 2018: Designing for Desigual

Lacroix, himself, started collaborating in 2011 with the Barcelona-based clothing brand Desigual. This year, he will launch 5 mini collections for the house.

Lacroix x Nymphenburg

He also collaborated with Nymphenburg for a limited edition collection of design objects.

Interior design by Christian Lacroix: Hotel Le Bellechasse in Paris 

Moreover, Christian Lacroix has completed interior design work at several landmark hotels, including the Hotel Le Petit Moulin in Spring, 2005; the Hotel Bellechasse, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Paris), in 2007 (a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World); and in 2010 Le Notre Dame hotel just a step from the cathedral Notre-Dame-de-Paris.

The newest hotel design project by Lacroix: Julius Caesar in Arles.

In 2014, formerly a 17th century Carmelite Convent, Julius Caesar in Arles opened its doors as a boutique hotel featuring décor designed by Christian Lacroix.

The Christian Lacroix store in Arles.

Lacroix without Lacroix… the House’s Studio still produces collections in men’s fashion, accessories (scarves, sunglasses, handbags, jewellery, watches and mobile phone accessories) and lifestyle (fabrics, wallpapers, cushions, rugs, tableware, candles and stationery). But unfortunately no women’s fashion… but to be honest that is also hard to imagine without Lacroix being there himself!

Lacroix, Sweetie, Lacroix! Your are a genius…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Christian Lacroix, via Vogue and © Sandra Bauknecht

Big Shots

BigShots

It is August and the majority of fall campaigns can be seen now in the new fashion magazines, ads just keep coming out of the woodwork and so I wanted to give you a brief summary of the most important ones and by whom they were shot.
It is funny to see that this world in particular is pretty small and some photographers are ahead of the game.

RobertoLongo

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

My personal favourite is Bottega Veneta`s strong expressive F/W 2010 campaign. Shot by the godfather of energetic graphic photography himself: Robert Longo. The artist has became famous in the late 1970s and early 1980s with his series „Men in the Cities“ that depicts men and women in business attire contorted in extreme positions.

MertALASMARCUSPIGGOT

Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary featuring Gisèle Buendchen

Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary featuring Gisèle Buendchen

The winner this season seems to be renowned Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. The dream team that has defined the look of the past decade, shot the most campaigns. Enjoy my preview:

Calvin Klein featuring Lara Stone

Calvin Klein featuring Lara Stone









Calvin Klein Jeans featuring Lara Stone

Calvin Klein Jeans featuring Lara Stone





Miu Miu featuring Lindsey Wixon, Ginta Lapina, Siri Tollerod, Daphne Groenweld

Miu Miu featuring Lindsey Wixon, Ginta Lapina, Siri Tollerod, Daphne Groenweld

Stella McCartney featuring Natalia Vodianova

Stella McCartney featuring Natalia Vodianova







Iceberg featuring Carolyn Murphy

Iceberg featuring Carolyn Murphy







Gucci featuring Nikola Jovanovic, Joan Smalls, Raquel Zimmermann

Gucci featuring Nikola Jovanovic, Joan Smalls, Raquel Zimmermann




Giorgio Armani featuring Edita Vilkeviciute

Giorgio Armani featuring Edita Vilkeviciute







Bulgari featuring Julianne Moore

Bulgari featuring Julianne Moore












StevenMeisel

Mulberry featuring Abbey Lee Kershaw, Hanne Gaby Odiele

Mulberry featuring Abbey Lee Kershaw, Hanne Gaby Odiele

The American photographer and long-time protégé of both Franca Sozzani and Anna Wintour, editors-in-chief of Italian and American Vogue is also a big shot in the world of fashion photography. No wonder, Steven Meisel shot all those gorgeous campaigns.

Lanvin featuring Mariacarla Boscono, Anja Rubik, Magdalena Frackowiak

Lanvin featuring Mariacarla Boscono, Anja Rubik, Magdalena Frackowiak








Balenciaga featuring Eliza Cummings, Freja Beha Erichsen, Julija Stepanoviciute, Kirsi Pyrohnen, Karen Elson, Meghan Collison, Mirte Maas, Stella Tennant

Balenciaga featuring Eliza Cummings, Freja Beha Erichsen, Julija Stepanoviciute, Kirsi Pyrohnen, Karen Elson, Meghan Collison, Mirte Maas, Stella Tennant

stella-tennant-balenciaga-fall-2010-ad-campaign





Prada featuring Daria Strokous,  Angela Lindvall

Prada featuring Daria Strokous, Angela Lindvall






Louis Vuitton featuring Karen Elson, Christy Turlington, Natalia Vodianova

Louis Vuitton featuring Karen Elson, Christy Turlington, Natalia Vodianova











Lambsweerde_Matadin

YSL featuring Daria Werbowy

YSL featuring Daria Werbowy

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinood Matadin, a fashion photographer duo that is well known for their independent art work. Most of their photographs are both critical and slightly disturbing as you can see in the campaigns they shot for F/W 2010.

Moschino featuring Alessandra Ambrosio

Moschino featuring Alessandra Ambrosio










Balmain featuring Kate Moss

Balmain featuring Kate Moss

Jean Paul Gaultier featuring Kelly Moreira, Crystal Renn

Jean Paul Gaultier featuring Kelly Moreira, Crystal Renn








Sorrenti

scarlett-johansson-mango-fall-2010-02

Mango featuring Scarlett Johansson

Italian-born Mario Sorrenti is a photographer and director best known for his spreads of nude models in the pages of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.


Kenzo featuring Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova

Kenzo featuring Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova









Emporio Armani featuring Karmen Pedaru

Emporio Armani featuring Karmen Pedaru







Testino

Versace featuring Iselin Steiro, Anna Selezneva, Valerija Kelava

Versace featuring Iselin Steiro, Anna Selezneva, Valerija Kelava

Peruvian fashion photographer Mario Testino has shot many fashion stories and celebrities. His work has been exhibited in numerous galleries and museums.

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Burberry Prorsum featuring Nina Porter, Lily Donaldson, Rosie Huntington Whitely

Burberry Prorsum featuring Nina Porter, Lily Donaldson, Rosie Huntington Whitely




D&G featuring Simon Nessman, Travis Davenport, Vladimir Ivanov, Nils Butler, Oscar Spendrup, Simona Andrejic, Diana Farkhullina, Elena Melnik, Anya Kazakova, Regina Feoktistova

D&G featuring Simona Andrejic, Diana Farkhullina, Elena Melnik, Anya Kazakova, Regina Feoktistova















Roversi

Hermès-Fall-Winter-2010-Ad-Campaign2Hermès has come up with another really beautiful advertising campaign shot by Paolo Roversi. I love his romantic, vintage looking photos that always seem to tell a story. To me, a perfect choice for the French house!

Hermès featuring Constance Jablonski

Hermès featuring Constance Jablonski






Alberta Ferretti featuring Monika Jagaciak, Sigrid Agren

Alberta Ferretti featuring Monika Jagaciak, Sigrid Agren











BruceWeber

Salvatore Ferragamo featuring Stella Tennant

Salvatore Ferragamo featuring Stella Tennant

Bruce Weber is a well-known face in the world of advertising photography. His career really took of in the late 1980s and early 1990s with his famous advertising images for Calvin Klein.








JurgenTeller

Céline featuring Sigrid Agren, Emma Balfour

Céline featuring Sigrid Agren, Emma Balfour

Juergen Teller‘s work is extraordinary and with a distinctive design. His raw style makes him one of the most influential fashion photographers working today.


Marc Jacobs featuring Monika Jagaciak, Frida Gustavsson, Ann Kenny

Marc Jacobs featuring Monika Jagaciak, Frida Gustavsson, Ann Kenny







Marc by Marc Jacobs featuring Ruby Aldridge

Marc by Marc Jacobs featuring Ruby Aldridge










KarlLagerfeld

Chanel featuring Brad Kroenig, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Freja Beha Erichsen

Chanel featuring Brad Kroenig, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Freja Beha Erichsen

Multi-talent Karl Lagerfeld likes to keep everything in his own hands. So no wonder that he shoots the advertising campaigns for his own collections for Chanel and Fendi.


Chanel2







Fendi featuring Anja Rubik, Baptiste Giabiconi

Fendi featuring Anja Rubik, Baptiste Giabiconi




fendi04







StevenKlein

dolcegabbanacampaign1Steven Klein is an American photographer that shot many high-profile advertising campaigns for various clients. This season he was hired by Dolce & Gabbana to capture a close knit Italian family with Madonna as the matriarchal figure through his lens.
Great job!

LoL, Sandra

dolcegabbanacampaign4

Dolce & Gabbana featuring Madonna

Dolce & Gabbana featuring Madonna