Hedi Slimane’s First Celine Collection

Yesterday, fashion’s second most anticipated show took place, Hedi Slimane’s debut for Céline. Ups, first mistake. He took the «accent aigu» (acute accent) away and Céline is now Celine. The looks, personally speaking, were very much Saint Laurent at his time, as if he just continued where he left off. For me absolutely boring.

The Celine S/S 2019 show invite

I loved when he started at Saint Laurent and went crazy for his looks. But after some seasons, I had enough in my closet of his rock’n roll chic. Of course, the collection for Celine is good, very ’80s and sexy. It is also ok to stay to true to yourself. But as a designer, I find it important to go with time and to value a brand’s heritage. Hedi just repeated what he did for Dior and Saint Laurent. Instead of taking the Yves away, he went for the accent aigu. Instead of applying his aesthetics to the French Maison in a new creative way, he just did copy and paste. Boring.

Copy and paste

To be honest, for LVMH it would have been the smartest move to give Hedi Slimane his own label.

ABOUT CÉLINE

Céline was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard, as one of the first luxury brands in the industry to make a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. The couple opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris. The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.

Céline Vipiana

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach. Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes. The trench became the iconic product of the house. In 1973, Céline, who remained at the helmet until 1997, redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians. At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.


In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital. However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million). LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.
American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997. During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit. In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand. In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo’s Céline changed your wardrobe (even if you didn’t realise it)…  she managed to predict what you want six months before you know you do.

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women’s Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline. Her tenure began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for S/S 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision. Philo brought a new touch to the brand creating functional clothes with a focus on materials and tailoring. In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”. Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé. In 2010, she received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

We all wanted it! Céline’s Boston bag – first seen on the S/S 2010 runway.

In December 2017, following increasing rumors in the press, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the F/W 2018 collection, which is to presented in March of that same year. Thanking her team, Phoebe Philo stated “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations…it’s been amazing.”

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand’s offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Great news for me, I can dress next summer in my former Saint Laurent pieces and will look like wearing new Celine. Money saved for other things…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Céline, © Sandra Bauknecht

My Look: Lunch in Ramatuelle

Last week before the amazing Great Gatsby party, I flew with a small little helicopter from Cannes to Ramatuelle to attend a lovely luncheon at Club Les Palmiers hosted by a great friend from Switzerland. I have to admit that I am a really big fan of the transparent fashion trend – so light and perfect for the hot temperatures!

My look: Layered stretch-jersey dress by Emilio Puccibeaded Mexican-style clip earrings, hippie-style bag and matching belt with multicolored tassels and coins, all by Etroleather platform sandals by Saint Laurenticon, Rose des Vents bracelets by Dior Joaillerie, and Chelsea pilot sunglasses in rose gold with blue mirrored lenses by Michael Kors.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

My Look: Bagatelle Beach

Greetings from Bagatelle Beach in St. Tropez, which is one of my favorite beach clubs in the world. Such great memories from a sunny weekend with ASW for the Asmallworld Summer Weekend. Wearing Missoni is always a great choice to cater to both, beach life and party.

My look: Ombré crochet-knit cardiganicon, Elisabetta crochet-knit wide-leg jumpsuiticon, and Elisabetta crochet-knit bandeau bikini, all by Missoniicon, Rockstud rubber sandalsicon by Valentino, leather bag with logo by MoschinoChelsea pilot sunglasses in rose gold with blue mirrored lenses by Michael Kors, key necklace, pearl necklace, candy necklace and matching candy bracelet, all by Chanel, Diorette daisy necklace and Rose des Vents bracelets in turquoise, pink, green and orange by Dior Joaillerie, diamond ring by Vainard Fine Jewellery, and Tonda 1950 Set Clarity watch by Parmigiani Fleurier.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Biedert Photography

Body Positive

When the whole ’90s-revival thing picked up steam most recently, I didn’t think twice about whipping out my overalls, and buying some body-hugging bodies. By the way, I am not talking about other human beings, I am talking about those tops that snap together at the crotch that were hugely popular in the ’90s and that made you look more like a Soviet gymnast than a fashionista at that time. This S/S 2018 season, I’ll admit that the return of this trend can look really amazing as the designers have come up with some fabulous pieces.

Anyway, brace yourself for a fashionable trip down the memory lane. You will love it, I promise!

1 Sage one-shoulder cutout metallic stretch-jersey bodysuiticon by Isabel Marant
2 Lace-trimmed square-neck bodysuiticon by Valentino
3 Denim-knit bodysuit by Stella McCartney
4 Logo-print scoop-neck bodyicon by Balmain
5 Sequined knitted bodysuit iconby Michael Kors
6 Jersey bodysuit by Roberto Cavalli
Knotted faux leather and stretch-jersey bodysuit by Stella McCartney
icon

Stretch-knit bodysuit by Alaïa
icon

Mesh and stretch-jersey bodysuit by Balmain
icon

Ruffled silk-blend chiffon bodysuit by Johanna Ortiz
icon

Mesh-paneled printed jersey bodysuiticon by Versace

Happy Sunday!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands

The Top 15 Runway Trends for S/S 2018

S/S 2018 in three words? Feel good fashion. The trends for the next season are a fab mix of florals, pastels, and all ways of dressing up. This winter’s love for red will be replaced by head to toe soft lavender and fringe made its way in all forms this season, so there’s a look for every level of commitment. Most importantly go clear this season with all your favorite designers as plastic gets fantastic and underwear is meant to be seen.

Below is a summary of the most important trends for S/S 2018. Enjoy! The pieces will hit the shelves starting beginning of next year…

LoL, Sandra

S/S 2018 TREND 1: SILK ROAD
Céline – Hermès – Versace

S/S 2018 TREND 2: ART LOVERS
Akris – Prada – Missoni

S/S 2018 TREND 3: IN FULL BLOOM
Rochas – Erdem – Marni

S/S 2018 TREND 4: FRINGES
Balmain – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC– Dior

S/S 2018 TREND 5: MARABOU
Proenza Schouler – Saint Laurent – Nina Ricci

S/S 2018 TREND 6: LAVENDER
The Row – Michael Kors – Tom Ford

S/S 2018 TREND 7: LIFE IN PLASTIC
Chanel – Burberry – Valentino

S/S 2018 TREND 8: WORKOUT
Gucci – Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs

S/S 2018 TREND 9: PLAID PLEASE
Fendi – Prabal Gurung – Balenciaga

S/S 2018 TREND 10: 80’s DENIM
Max Mara – Stella McCartney – Oscar de la Renta

S/S 2018 TREND 11: THE TRENCH
Gabriela Hearst – Maison Margiela – Victoria Beckham

S/S 2018 TREND 12: SHOW YOUR UNDIES
Christopher Kane – Miu Miu – Alessandra Rich

S/S 2018 TREND 13: RAINBOW
Peter Pilotto – Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini – Vionnet

S/S 2018 TREND 14: WHITE AT NIGHT
Jil Sander – Alexander McQueen – Etro

S/S 2018 TREND 15: MISE-EN-SCÈNE
Moschino – Dolce & Gabbana – Comme des Garçons

Photos: via Vogue.com

Most Important F/W 2017 Accessories Trends

This F/W 2017 season is all about having fun and exploring new territories! With fashion in a maximalist mood, accessories have kept their center stage. On the runways, fishnets are back, boots sparkle, and this winter you definitely need three bags at once. Red is the color to buy and don’t store your overknee boots, they are hipper than ever.

The forecast: Get ready for your another sumptuous season!

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: FISHNET STOCKINGS
Lanvin – Jason Wu – Cinq à Sept

F/W 2017 TREND 2: GLITTER BOOTS
Oscar de la Renta – Chanel – Saint Laurent

F/W 2017 TREND 3: FURRY HATS
Marni – Prada – Miu Miu

F/W 2017 TREND 4: CRAZY HATS
Emilio Pucci – Moschino – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 5: STUFFED ANIMALS
Dolce & Gabbana – Loewe – Jeremy Scott

F/W 2017 TREND 6: WIDE BELTS
Tod’s – Bottega Veneta – Michael Kors

F/W 2017 TREND 7: LOGOMANIA
Proenza Schouler – Christian Dior – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 8: COMBAT BOOTS
Altuzarra – Rodarte – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: HEEL ART
Mary Katrantzou – Salvatore Ferragamo – Dries Van Noten

F/W 2017 TREND 10: TRIPLE THREAT
Coach – Gucci – Fendi

F/W 2017 TREND 11: OVERKNEES
Balmain – Nina Ricci – Ellery

F/W 2017 TREND 12: WHITE OUT
Victoria Beckham – Marc Jacobs – Narciso Rodriguez

F/W 2017 TREND 13: FOCUS ON THE JEWELRY
Isabel Marant – Alexander Wang – Céline

Photos: Via Vogue.com

The Top 15 Runway Trends for F/W 2017

Here they are: the most important trends for the F/W 2017 season. Americana vibes, a powerful way to wear red, and vintage-inspired everything. Enjoy this comprehensive look at the pieces you’ll be wearing shortly. Deconstructed clothing is here to stay as well as florals and leisure suits. If you are looking at the new skirts, mid-length is the way to go.

I cannot wait for this beautiful season to arrive in stores.

LoL, Sandra

F/W 2017 TREND 1: POWER RED
Givenchy – Fendi – Max Mara

F/W 2017 TREND 2: FUTURISTIC SILVER
Saint Laurent – Chanel – Comme des Garçons

F/W 2017 TREND 3: NEW TRANSPARENCY
Calvin Klein – Miu Miu – Emilio Pucci

F/W 2017 TREND 4: WILD WEST
House of Holland – Balmain – Alexander Wang

F/W 2017 TREND 5: FOLKLORE
Gucci – Etro – Maison Margiela

F/W 2017 TREND 6: EVENING VELVET
Jason Wu – Alberta Ferretti – Erdem

F/W 2017 TREND 7: RETRO FUR
Louis Vuitton – Michael Kors – Loewe

F/W 2017 TREND 8: ’70s PLAID
Tory Burch – Marni – Hermès

F/W 2017 TREND 9: FEATHERS
Prada – Mary Katrantzou – Elie Saab

F/W 2017 TREND 10: LEISURE SUITS
Chloé – Marc Jacobs – Ashish

F/W 2017 TREND 11: BROAD SHOULDERS
Dries Van Noten – Jacquemus – Isabel Marant

F/W 2017 TREND 12: RECYCLING
Dolce & Gabbana – Moschino – Junya Watanabe

F/W 2017 TREND 13: LACE OVERLAY
Stella McCartney – Burberry – Alessandra Rich

F/W 2017 TREND 14: WALLPAPER FLORALS
Mulberry – Emilia Wickstead – Balenciaga

F/W 2017 TREND 15: DENIM SUITS
Sacai – Christian Dior – Esteban Cortazar

Photos: Via Vogue.com

Greenery – Color of the Year 2017

greenery_color2017

In collage: Ruffle trimmed single breasted wool coat by Gucci and nail lacquer in Greenery by Butter London.

Each year PANTONE, the global color authority, chooses one Color of the Year, like a snapshot of what we see taking place in our global culture that serves as an expression of a mood and an attitude. For 2017, it is GREENERY, a refreshing and revitalizing shade, symbolic of new beginnings. This fresh and zesty yellow-green shade evokes the first days of spring when nature’s greens revive, restore and renew.

Illustrative of flourishing foliage and the lushness of the great outdoors, the fortifying attributes of Greenery signals consumers to take a deep breath, oxygenate and reinvigorate. Greenery is nature’s neutral. The more submerged people are in modern life, the greater their innate craving to immerse themselves in the physical beauty and inherent unity of the natural world.

trendss2017_greenery
Michael Kors – Loewe – Emilio Pucci

Designers’ love of geekiness dictated an unexpected new power color on the S/S 2017 runways, making that vibrant shade a real showstopper. A life-affirming hue, Greenery is also emblematic of the pursuit of personal passions and vitality. See below in my post some of the best pieces to utilise greenery from now.

And while you are shopping, prepare yourself a trendy Matcha tea to get you in the ultimate Greenery mood!

LoL, Sandra

mulberry_bag_greenDarley textured-leather shoulder bag by Mulberry

prada_greeneryWatermelon printed bag by Prada

earrings_delarentaGold-tone, resin and Swarovski crystal earrings by Oscar De La Renta

803180_in_xlFaux pearl-embellished wool-crepe mini skirt by Gucci

balenciaga_bag_suedeClassic Metallic Edge City mini suede shoulder bag by Balenciaga

Photos: Courtesy of Pantone and the Brands

My Look: Amsterdam Nights

Amsterdam_Nights_Sandra_Bauknecht

In Amsterdam I stayed at The College Hotel which I can absolutely recommend. One night, I had dinner with my Dutch friends at Nacional, which is a great restaurant reminiscent of a Parisian brasserie. Afterwards, we had drinks at Bo Cinq followed by some dancing at Jimmy Woo.

My look: Leopard jacquard blazer and iconTribute patent-leather sandals, bothicon by Saint Laurent, black jumpsuit by Michael Kors, satin clutch by Prada, diamond bracelet by Vainard Fine Jewellery, diamond ring and rose necklace, both by Piaget and Amulette necklace by Cartier.

LoL, Sandra

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_15

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_16

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_12

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_1

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_10

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_13

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_11

Amsterdam_College_Hotel_Sandra_Bauknecht_14

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

The New Denim

The New Denim F:W2014

Durable, up-to-date and irresistibly stylish, new season denim gives a nod to the past and a sharp look into the future. High waisted or ripped and ragged like Saint Laurent or all patched up like Dsquared, pair your picks with Lucchese boots and a Pucci belt or a fringed leather bag by Antik Batik and a Michael Kors watch for just the right mix of uptown charm and new season western-style allure.

1 High-rise denim shorts iconby Saint Laurent
Destroyed cotton denim jeansicon by Saint Laurent
3 Pat super patch watch cotton denim jeansicon by Dsquared2
4 Lucchese Romia suede western bootsicon by Lucchese
5 Embellished suede belt by Emilio Pucci
6 Bertil fringed suede drawstring bagicon by Antik Batik
7 Lexington rose gold-tone stainless steel chronograph watchicon by Michael Kors

LoL, Sandra