Visiting Azzedine Alaïa in Paris

Visiting Azzedine Alaia in Paris

Today, my thoughts are with the people of Paris. Standing in solidarity with the French, I am appalled by yesterday’s heinous and immoral acts. So many amazing people live in the City of Lights and I am wishing all of them lots of strength. One of them is Azzedine Alaïa whom I met recently.

“It is Alaïa or not Alaïa! If it is not, you cannot negotiate.”

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Rue de Moussy in the Marais district of Paris, a very unlikely location for a high end fashion store. This has been the address of Azzedine Alaïa’s Maison since over 20 years. It is home to the ateliers, the showroom, the store, an art gallery, his apartment, a hotel with three rooms and the famous kitchen where he eats together with his employees every day and where he welcomed my humble self for dinner. Famous artist and longtime friend Julian Schnabel designed some furniture for the space, such as a massive cashiers’ desk, embellished with the initials, “A.A.”.

Moussy - Photos Andrea Aversa(8)The Alaïa store at Rue de Moussy

Marignan - Photos Ilvio Gallo (1)Housed in an 18th-century mansion, the new Alaïa store at 5 Rue de Marignan.

Before I arrive at the Alaïa temple, I had visited the second store on Rue Marignan which has been open since September 2013. It is quite the opposite on three floors, white, majestic, very artsy and clean, filled with the iconic pieces Azzedine is known for. You might say that he is one of the last couturiers. He is the master of tailoring. I haven’t seen one woman in my life that hasn’t looked good in an Alaïa dress and a pair of Alaïa shoes.

Azzedine-Alaia-12-Vogue-2Oct13-Patrick-Demarchelier_b© Patrick Demarchelier

It is an amazing success story: born in February 1940 as the son of Tunisian farmers, he got inspired for his love of couture by his twin sister. He attended the École des Beaux-Arts in Tunis and studied sculpture which helped him define the silhouette of the modern woman. He had worked at Christian Dior, Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler before opening his first own atelier in the late 1970s. There is no doubt, Azzedine Alaïa has made the sexiest clothes for the most stunning women on the planet, has rejected corporate fashion and become highly acclaimed among critics, designers – even first ladies. For me, it is a story of someone who has always stayed true to himself and has never given up on his own dreams and values, no matter how much more difficult it got because of this attitude. Being particularly successful since the 1980s, he is mostly famous for his tight fitting curve-hugging clothes and second-skin styles with complex seams and snaking zippers. Thanks to him, leather and Lycra have been elevated to the world of high fashion.

Azzedine-Alaia-2-Vogue-2Oct13-Paolo-Roversi_bLong sheath dress known as the “powder puff” from the S/S 1994 collection.
© Paolo Roversi

Mr. Alaïa once said: “A woman is like an actress, she’s always onstage. She has to look great to feel good. If she’s going to wear clothes by a designer, … then the clothes should make something happen, something unexpected. The dress has to be part of her, she has to feel it on her body. … I prefer the woman to be seen rather than the outfit. Her head, her body, her hands — the garment is there to cover her, to underline something, and make her beautiful.

Alaïa’s ability to flatter a woman’s body is unparalleled, his creations are timeless. I have been collecting his designs for over twenty years and not one of my pieces seems outdated.

6a00e5523a6edd8833013488290b1a970c-800wiAlaïa leopard love (F/W 1992), © Jean-Baptiste Mondino

He likes swimming against the tide. Whereas all designers follow the fashion week schedules, Mr. Alaïa premieres his collections at his own rhythm, in private défilés since over a decade now. He is openly not a fan of Karl Lagerfeld and had a big fall out with Anna Wintour who hadn’t included the designer’s work in the 2009 Met’s Model As Muse exhibition – which she had organized.

Azzedine Alaïa plays by his own rules. The tiny designer is used to make all the decisions himself. For him, being independent and putting all the effort in his creativity is the key to success. “It’s ready, when it’s ready.” Now, after over 30 years in business, he takes his kingdom to new heights with the launch of his first fragrance «Alaïa». Like an iconic dress of him, he wanted it to be like a second skin. Timeless, for the Alaïa woman, discreet and not vulgar. He created a team of four people to come up with the perfect scent. His longtime friend Carla Sozzani, founder of 10 Corso Como in Milan, famous fashion photographer Paolo Roversi, the French designer Martin Szekely, who created the bottle and last but not least Marie Salamagne, the nose behind it.

Sandra_Bauknecht_Marie_SalamangneMarie Salamagne with me

For her it was an unusual encounter with a designer. Marie explains to me: “Once a month we met and discussed what was going to be the fragrance. Mr. Alaïa was were interested to interpret his childhood memories that he had of the smell of fresh water. He had this clear souvenir in mind of cold water running down the hot walls of his family house. Therefore he wanted the fragrance to show exactly this contrast, a mix of cool and warm notes at one.” He was very clear about his vision: “It is Alaïa or not Alaïa! If it is not, you cannot negotiate.

Sandra_Bauknecht_Smelling_alaiaExploring the new Alaïa scent

Marie Salamagne used very fresh airy top notes to give this watery feeling that is transparent and pure. The idea to use pink pepper to add more lightness came from Mr. Alaïa himself. The second impression is floral, but in an abstract and not invasive way, built on peony and freesia. The base notes are warm and all about bare skin created through animal notes and musk.

08_AA EDP 2015_PACKSHOT WITH BOX_BLACK BG

The bottle is all about the same contrasting elements. Built like a sculpture, it resembles the iconic perforated cut used for his leather pieces. It is opaque black but when you hold it into the light, it becomes see-through. The packaging itself plays with the famous nude color, the color of skin that Azzedine Alaïa loves to work with. Personally speaking, I had a clear idea in mind of how «Alaïa» would smell like and the new fragrance has totally surpassed all of my expectations. It is different like the house of Alaïa is, yet timeless and unexpected. The designer was very clear about his vision: “It is Alaïa or not Alaïa! If it is not, you cannot negotiate.

It was an amazing experience meeting Mr Alaïa himself. He is such a sweetheart!
Below are some more impressions of my time with him.

LoL, Sandra

Sandra_Bauknecht_AlaiaHeading to dinner in head to toe Alaïa

Moussy - Photos Andrea Aversa(7)Inside the Rue de Moussy store.

Rossy-De_palma_Sandra_BauknechtWith Alaïa’s muse, actress Rossy de Palma, at dinner.

IMG_3439The famous Alaïa kitchen

Hotel 3 Rooms - 5 Rue de Moussy- Photos Christoph Kicherer (1)One of the three hotel rooms

Rue-de-Moussy_Sandra_Bauknecht_alaiaTrying the amazing gown that I wore to my friend’s wedding in Capri.

Gift AlaiaA lovely gift from Mr Alaïa: the laser-cut leather clutch.icon

Marignan - Photos Ilvio Gallo (14)The stairs inside the Rue de Marignan store.

Marignan - Photos Ilvio Gallo (10)

Photos: Courtesy of Alaïa, © Sandra Bauknecht, © Paolo Roversi, © Jean-Baptiste Mondino and © Patrick Demarchelier

Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom

MimosaCardamom2

Recently I had a lovely lunch at Seerose in Zurich to explore the newest scent by Jo Malone: MIMOSA & CARDAMOM. It is such a lovely fragrance, unexpected and new with its modern floriental signature. The nose behind it is Marie Salamagne.

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Marie, can you tell us about the brief from Jo Malone London?
The first thing that Jo Malone London showed me was some incredibly vivid orientalist paintings from the nineteenth century. They wanted to create a fragrance that captured the bohemian spirit of adventure from the Victorians, who travelled the world collecting intriguing objects, to the vibrant hedonism of the sixties to the modern day bohemian. With Jo Malone London the process is always very immersive so I looked forward to really delving into the bohemian world.

Jo

Please tell us about how you were inspired by Mimosa.
Mimosa & Cardamom is infused with sensuality and much of this comes from the mimosa itself, an unusual powdery and honeyed floral that perfectly captures the bohemian character. I had a strong memory of the mimosa flower which made it even more exciting to work with. It has always reminded me of my childhood and winter weekends spent near the coast in the South of France. It was a joy to see these blooms again when Jo Malone London took me to see the mimosa growing in the Tanneron Mountains in Provence. It was a cold February day with bright blue skies. The scent and spectacle of the fluffy yellow flowers was unbelievable, mimosa is the golden sun of winter! I took some branches back from Tanneron with me and put them in my office so every day I could be inspired by the smell of the bright yellow pompoms. I chose to use a sumptuous absolute of Mimosa from the South of France, rich with a multifaceted character to capture the beauty of these flowers.

MimosaCardamom

MIMOSA & CARDAMOM
FLORIENTAL

Top note: Cardamom
Middle note: Mimosa
Base note: Tonka Bean

Fragrance Combining™
With English Pear & Freesia for a spicy note and with Red Roses for a soft and comforting warmth.

JoMalone_Mimosa_cardamom

The Mimosa & Cardamom Collection
Cologne 30ml, CHF 69.00
Cologne 100ml, CHF 130.00
Body Wash & Hand Cream 250ml, CHF 47.00
Body Cream 175ml, CHF 99.00
Home Candle 200g, CHF 82.00

In Switzerland available in August 2015 at Globus Geneva and Jelmoli Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Jo Malone and © Sandra Bauknecht

Jo Malone Incense & Cedrat

JML Incense & Cedrat Romance

Jo Malone will launch Incense & Cedrat in February. The new fragrance was inspired by Omani incense and joins the Cologne Intense Collection. Celine Roux, Fragrance Director, says: “It’s the most historic and precious incense in the world. We loved the way it’s so intrinsic to Omani culture, often layered with other scents. This made complete sense to us as the philosophy of Fragrance Combining™ is an intrinsic part of our DNA.

JML - PARIS - 07_11_14_9

Omani incense has never before been captured in perfumery before. Marie Salamagne, Master Perfumer, explains the technique behind: “The really special thing about this project is that we used NaturePrint™. We spent months scouring Oman for the finest incense before bringing it back to the laboratory. When I smelt the NaturePrint™ note it was instantly inspiring. It was so close to nature. The traditional smokiness was there but there was also a freshness, something illuminating.

Weihrauch

The Omani incense, which is harvested from the Bowsellia sacra tree, is found in Dhofar, Oman. Incense is extracted by incising the bark. At certain times of year the trees are cut with special knives releasing tears of fresh resin which are left to dry in the sun. At the beginning of April, as soon as the temperatures start to rise, the incense gatherers cut the frankincense trees in many places. The first ‘cut’ consists of paring off the outer bark of the branches and trunk. Then three more follow. The process requires great skill and the same families work on the harvest for centuries.

JML - PARIS - 07_11_14_22

JML Incense & Cedrat on whiteIncense & Cedrat features a headspace note from the Boswellia sacra (frankincense) tree. Additional notes include lemon, pepper, elemi, labdanum and benzoin. Jo Malone Incense & Cedrat will be available as 100 ml Cologne Intense for CHF 165.00 from February 2, 2015 in Switzerland at Jelmoli Zurich and Globus Geneva.

A great tip regarding Fragrance Combining™ comes from Marie Salamagne: “In combination with another Cologne Intense, Oud & Bergamot, it develops a sophisticated woody note that’s hypnotic and masculine. And for a completely different mood, try layering Incense & Cedrat with Red Roses. It creates a multi-faceted rose fragrance, spicy and sensual with incense.”

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Jo Malone

YSL Oriental Collection Splendid Wood

YSL Splendid Wood

After Majestic Rose, Noble Leather and Supreme Bouquet introduced last year, the Yves Saint Laurent Oriental Collection has received the fourth fragrance inspired by wood created in an oriental style: SPLENDID WOOD.

The extremely precious ingredients for this scent to fill the luxurious glass flacon decorated with gold colors were imagined by perfumers Marie Salamagne and Amandine Marie.

Splendid Wood ysl 1

WOODY SPICY
Top notes: Cardamom, Incense and Saffron
Middle notes: Jasmine Sambac and Oriental Woodsy Notes
Base notes: Cypriol Oil, Cedar and Oud

Splendid Wood is available now as 80 ml Eau de Parfum for CHF 250.00.
A beautiful scent for men and women.

LoL, Sandra

YSL oriental Collection

Photos: Courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent

Jo Malone Tuberose Angelica

Tuberose Angelica

Jo Malone‘s newest addition to its Cologne Intense collection (Amber & Patchouli, Oud & Bergamot, Iris & White Musk, Rosewater & Vanilla, Velvet Rose & Oud and Saffron) smells absolutely heavenly: TUBEROSE ANGELICA.

Top note: Angelica
Middle note: Tuberose
Base note: Amber

Tuberose Angelica was developed by perfumer Marie Salamagne. The ‘fragrance combining’ suggestion is English Pear & Freesia. Available now for CHF 165.00 (100ml).

LoL, Sandra

Photo: Courtesy of Jo Malone

Margielamania

MargielaToday_in_stores

Don’t forget to shop the unique collaboration Maison Martin Margiela with H&M that hits selected stores worldwide officially today! This year, the French fashion house is sharing their unconventional fashion framework with H&M and their re-editions are to-die-for (Have a look at this previous post where you can see them in detail)! In case that you have missed the party pics of the amazing launch party in NYC, click here.

La_Maison_Champs_Elysées

If you cannot get enough of Maison Martin Margiela, I recommend a visit to one of my favourite hotels in Paris: La Maison Champs-Elysées. The design hotel was the first to be decorated by Martin Margiela and voted among the best hotels in the world by Condé Nast Traveller.

Its location between the Grand Palais and the Avenue Montaigne is perfect, especially during Paris Fashion Week.

PaulBdin_Suite112_Maison_champs_elysées

I stayed in one of three “Lost Moulding” suites: N° 112 Paul Bodin, designed by Martin Margiela. The wooden mouldings in the rooms start and finish at random, like a work in progress, offering various shades of white. A large central space with sliding side doors separates the lounge from the bedroom, enhancing the feeling of privacy. The luxurious, modern bathroom is extremely spacious and beautiful.

Margiela_Replica_fragrances

And here is more for all Margiela-fans among you: Replica Fragrances by Maison Martin Margiela, a reproduction of familiar scents and moments of varying locations and periods that embodies the interest of Maison Martin Margiela for vintage clothing and accessories.

All three recently launched feminine fragrances “Flower Market”, “Beach Walk”, “Funfair Evening” are divine and instantly evoke images, impressions, positive emotions that reflect our collective subconscious. Composed by the master perfumer Jacques Cavallier, along with Marie Salamagne, each ‘Replica’ fragrance captures a specific olfactory moment, recalling memories that we all share. 100ml (CHF 109.-)

FlowerMarket

“Flower Market”
Paris, 2011

Freshly cut flowers, wet petals, buckets and vases brimming with water, leaves crushed on the floor, a multitude of floral compositions… Maison Martin Margiela captures the delicate fragrance of the flower market.
The green freshness of just-cut stems echoes the sensuality of the floral accord. Transparent notes of freesia and Grasse rose petals dotted with water, are enveloped by creamier notes of Sambac jasmine and tuberose.

BeachWalk

“Beach Walk”
Calvi, 1972

A stroll along the ocean. Feet sink into the sand. Waves brush the skin. The sun at its zenith radiates the beach. “Beach Walk” evokes the memory of a summer day.
Fresh as the spray of the ocean, bergamot, lemon and pink pepper are instantly fused. Radiant and sensual ylang ylang follows, illuminating the addictive scents of coconut milk, musk and heliotrope.

Funfair

“Funfair Evening”
Santa Monica, 1994

In the warm night air, the sound of laughter and playful melodies. The obscurity is broken by splashes of multicoloured neon. Colour reigns vibrant and explosive. An odour of candy fills the air.
From the first breath, the ambiance of the funfair comes to mind. The soft and enveloping fragrance of sweets… Notes of apple and star anise join to reveal a marshmallow accord created with caramel and orange blossom.

Enjoy indulging in your very own Margielamania and see you at H&M!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of H&M, La Maison des Champs-Elysées, Maison Martin Margiela, © Sandra Bauknecht

Armani Privé Nacre

Nacre

For his S/S 2012 fashion show, Giorgio Armani, the king of nonchalant elegance, borrows the luminous magic of Southern Italian summer nights, “when the last rays of the sun shine a myriad of new shades upon the water, when the blue sky turns to night tinged with green, petrol blue and bluish gray hues flushed with violet, when darkness sweeps over the scenery metallic glints silver tones, pale gold and pink copper tints sparkle and when stars seem to float upon the water.”

Armani Models 2

Mother-of-pearl (NACRE) gives its name and forms the central theme. With his new Haute Couture Fragrance NACRE, Giorgio Armani accompanies his prêt-à-porter collection with a rare, highly limited and very luxurious fragrance.

Nacre2

It is an ode to mother-of-pearl which signs each of the 1000 numbered bottles in this edition with a plate bearing its name. No two plates are the same: each is unique, in tribute to the living character of a material born from the depth of the sea. The bottle itself is a piece of art.

The fragrance was developed by perfumer Marie Salamagne, at Firmenich. It has a really spicy woody smell to it, with a strong amount of iris. It’s unisex and definitely something everyone could wear! The iris chosen for Nacre has a very rare quality, combining the rich, creamy facet of iris, with a powdery, almost talc-like note.

Top notes: Bergamot, pink pepper and saffron
Middle notes: Iris absolute and musk
Base notes: Patchouli, vetiver woods and tonka bean

130 bottles of the 1000 limited editions are available in Switzerland now for CHF 690.- (100ml). In Zurich at Jelmoli. Definitely a collector’s piece.

LoL, Sandra

What you wearPhotos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani, © Sandra Bauknecht