Hubert de Givenchy Dead at 91

I have just received the tragic news that another legend has left the planet. Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his eponymous fashion house in 1952, died past Saturday aged 91 as his partner – former haute couture designer – Philippe Venet has announced today. The couple lived in a Renaissance chateau near Paris.

«Balloon Coat», Hubert de Givenchy, 1958

The aristocratic gentleman was known for his sophisticated and ladylike chic in the 1950s and 1960s and famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

At the age of seventeen, he moved to Paris where he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts. Givenchy’s first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) – working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior, followed by 5 years working for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli before he opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris in 1952.

Audrey Hepburn wearing Givenchy in 1954 film «Sabrina».

His style was marked by innovation, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy’s fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of «Sabrina». He went on to design the famous «little black dress» she wore in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s».

In 1961, when Audrey Hepburn got the roll of Holly Golightly, designer Hubert de Givenchy designed the famous black dress which became one of the most iconic clothing items of the 20th century.

He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L’Interdit and Le de Givenchy) and made Audrey Hepburn the face of it. For the very first time a star was the face of a fragrance’s advertising campaign and probably the last time that it was done for free, only by friendship.

At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan’s East Village. In 1954, Givenchy’s prêt-à-porter collection debuted.

1957 Babydoll Dress by Givenchy

The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch was acquired by LVMH in 1989. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.

De Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His successor to head the Givenchy label was John Galliano, followed by a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald. As we all know, Riccardo Tisci revived the Givenchy brand tremendously from 2005 until 2017. This season, Clare Waight Keller presented her first runway show for Givenchy.

Rest in peace, Hubert de Givenchy and thank you for all those wonderful fashionable moments.
You will never be forgotten!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Getty Images

My Look: Union Jack Style

In the ’90s, John Galliano gave the famous Union Jack a high fashion rehabilitation and in the beginning of the century, Vivienne Westwood’s interpretation of the red, white and blue became an icon for post-punk British creativity. The Union Jack of today has shed its skin of sneery Cool Britannia rebelliousness. Now, Gucci‘s Alessandro Michele shows us that it is all about flying the flag, just not as we know it.

My look: Fur coat by Etro, Union Jack embellished wool sweaterfur-felt wide-brim trilby hat, skinny denim pant with embroidery and Horsebit-detailed collapsible-heel metallic leather loafers, all by Gucci, classic Union Jack inspired flap bag by ChanelHorsebit blue topaz diamond white gold ringicon by Gucci Fine Jewellery.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Merry Christmas 2017

«Christmas trees are the strongest ‘souvenir’ of my happy childhood.» – Karl Lagerfeld

I love Christmas trees and my favorite one (besides my own) can be found at London’s Claridge’s Hotel where in the eighth consecutive year a creative visionary has been invited to reinterpret the tree in their own distinctive style. This December, it is Karl Lagerfeld, one of the fashion world’s most influential creative forces, who created the stunning festive installation, a sixteen foot high inverted tree with silver gilded roots topped with a multi-faceted mirrored star which reflects rays of magical light across the art deco lobby. Reminiscent of a silver stalactite, the tree is hung with traditional silver lametta decorations, silver butter leather feathers and snowflakes handmade by craftsmen in Germany with tree candles giving a warm, inviting glow. Under the centerpiece sit hand sewn white Icelandic sheepskin rugs to reflect a recent snowfall.The famous designer was inspired by his own childhood memories of Christmas.

The Claridge’s Christmas Tree has long been a festive Mayfair landmark, drawing visitors and Londoners alike to marvel at its magnificent and ever-changing design. Scroll down to explore Claridge’s Christmas Tree designs through the years.

2016: SIR JONY IVE AND MARC NEWSON

2015: CHRISTOPHER BAILEY FOR BURBERRY

2014: DOLCE & GABBANA

2013: DOLCE & GABBANA

2012: KALLY ELLIS OF MCQUEENS

2011: ALBER ELBAZ FOR LANVIN

2010: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

2009: JOHN GALLIANO FOR DIOR

Merry Christmas to all of you – may you all sparkle as these beautiful trees with joy, love and laughter.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Claridge’s

Met Gala 2017

Always on the first Monday in May, the Met Gala takes place and its 150-foot-long red carpet is probably one of the most-watched fashion events of the year with a gazillion of celebrities walking it in the most exquisite gowns. This year, it celebrated the opening of the Costume Institute’s exhibition, “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” that will go on until September 4, 2017.

Today I would like to share my personal list of best-dressed (and worst-dressed) celebrities that made their way last night into the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Temple of Dendur for the party of the year. The dress code called for avant-garde black tie, either you go big or go home, enjoy!

My favorite look on the red carpet: Lily-Rose Depp‘s pink Chanel look detailed with oversized silver camellias and a creeping vine.

Who did meet the dress code the best? The answer is clearly Rihanna. She showed up once again in a full-on fashion fantasy from the Comme des Garçons F/W 2016 runway that was also an architectural miracle, paired with Rihanna Loves Chopard jewelry.

As 2017 Met Gala cochair of the “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” exhibition, Pharell Williams wore ripped denim by Comme des Garçons Jeans with a black biker jacket, and plaid shirt. His wife, Helen Lasichanh, paired her straight-off-the-F/W-2017-runway red onesie with a blonde topknot. Not showing any arms, it looked like a fashionable straightjacket.

Cara Delevingne appeared as a sci-fi fashion fantasy wearing an embellished pantsuit from Chanel‘s Spring 2017 Couture collection. I love how she always surprises.

One of my favorites! Even that Zendaya rejected the theme of the night, she ensured all eyes were on her wearing a Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda ball gown covered in a tropical parrot print.

Two thumbs up for bringing glamour to the red carpet. Jennifer Lopez looked gorgeous in a Valentino dress and Harry Winston jewelry.

Lily Collins showed up with a graphic dark bob and black lipstick, juxtaposing her sweet Giambattista Valli gown and her fierce Tiffany & Co. jewelry.

Plus-size model Ashley Graham channeled her inner flamenco dancer in a fabulous custom H&M dress. So pretty!

I am in love with Blake Lively’s Atelier Versace gown that featured a draped gold beading at the bodice, giving way to a plumed train in shades of blue. She had the best accessory of the night with her … her husband:-)! Couple goals I would say!

Another one arrived with her handsome husband who might have thought looking at his wife Gisele Bündchen in Stella McCartney, of Ed Sheeran singing «I’m in love with the shape of you» …

If you don’t have a husband to bring, bring the designer of your dress! That was Dakota Johnson‘s motto of the night, as she appeared in a stunning ruffled black Gucci gown with Alessandro Michele at her side.

Radiant like a sun goddess, actress Jessica Chastain in a yellow fluid Prada gown paired with some stunning Piaget jewelry.

Lupita Nyong’o also dazzled in Prada, pulling off the vibrant orange shade with Tiffany & Co. jewelry.

Gigi Hadid looked amazing in a nude, asymmetrical Cinderella-esque Tommy Hilfiger dress. I am just not so sure about the stay-up.

Showstopper! Leave it to Bella Hadid to steal the show in a glittering catsuit by none other than Alexander Wang. She looked so fabulous!

Priyanka Chopra did not disappoint in a bold Ralph Lauren trench coat gown with an unbelievably long train. Very different, something I like. I am just not a big fan of her booties in combination.

Like it or not, the award for most nude goes to none other than Kendall Jenner, whose slinky La Perla Haute Couture dress will absolutely go down in Met Gala history.

When it comes to Gwyneth Paltrow‘s understated Calvin Klein dress, I love the cut and the color, but I am not fond of the ankle length.

Katy Perry was unfortunately not among my favorites last night. The custom red tulle gown by Maison Margiela, designed by John Galliano himself, was topped with a heavy-looking wool coat covered in adornments like tulle flowers and plenty of beads. On the veil, a cryptic message across her eyes spelling “Witness” was embroidered, nevertheless it was truly one of the night’s most creative looks.

My favourite picture of the night! Have a look at Sarah Paulson dressed in a beautiful classy Prada gown. Her facial expression says everything! The American Horror Story actress seemed to have a heart attack after bumping into Madonna with the designer of her camouflage Moschino dress by her side, Jeremy Scott. Declaring war on fashion in camouflage, the famous singer was definitely not going incognito. I am not a fan of her look.

Swiss power at the Met Gala… Roger Federer in Gucci. I adore this snake embellishment on his back!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue.com, © Getty Images, © Rob Latour/REX/Shutterstock, © Theo Wargo/Getty Images

On My Way to Salzburg with Chanel

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Happy first Sunday in Advent, my dear readers! While you are hopefully enjoying a cozy day at home or with friends, I am on my way to Salzburg with CHANEL to attend the French house’s extravagant Métiers d’Art show. I shared with you the first visuals a few days ago and you might imagine my excitement to be invited. Seeing Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams in those amazing outfits just got my imagination going how amazing the collection will be.

Chanel Paris-Salzburg

On December 1, the movie Reincarnation will be revealed during a dinner party and on December 2, the show will take place at 10.30 am at Schloss Leopoldskron, an 18th-century lakeside rococo palace. Follow me on instagram @sandrascloset for live updates. But Karl Lagerfeld isn’t the only one who looked to Austria for inspiration – Tyrolean references have shown up at previous collections from the likes of Givenchy, Emilio Pucci, Olympia Le-Tan, and more. See the trend’s full evolution below.

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According to Karl Lagerfeld, Coco Chanel derived her original inspiration for the Little Black Jacket from the Tyrolean uniform she spotted on a bellhop at Schloss Mittersill, a castle-cum-hotel in Salzburg, Austria.

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Rock ‘n’ Tyrol at the recent Givenchy S/S 2015 show during Paris Fashion Week.

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For Emilio Pucci’s F/W 2011 offering, Peter Dundas channeled Tyrolean folklore and two Austrian beauties: Romy Schneider (specifically her turn in Sissi) and the nation’s opulent palaces.

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My look: Pucci Goes Wies’n

Tyrolean-Love

My look: Tyrolean Love

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The aforementioned Romy Schneider in Sissi, a 1955 film based on the life of Empress Elisabeth of Austria.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s darling take on Hansel & Gretel for Red Valentino’s F/W 2013 offering.

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Milliner extraordinaire Stephen Jones whipped up this Tyrolean topper for John Galliano‘s F/W 2003 spectacular.

Dirndl Dolce Gabbana -Sandra Bauknecht

My look: Dirndl Time

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Delicate alpine flowers scattered across a frock at Valentino’s F/W 2012 show.

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These are a few of our favorite things: a luxe take on lederhosen, as spotted in the lookbook for Olympia Le-Tan’s F/W 2013 Schnitzel With Noodles collection.

D&G F:W 2002

Hello, cowgirl in the sand. Or, in this case, the Alps. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went north for inspiration for their F/W 2002 D&G secondary line and came back with a Tyrolean-themed collection—just the thing for a sexy, young Heidi with a great figure and a good sense of humor.

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My look: Greetings from Kitzbuehel in Austria

Whether you’re taking the Givenchy route or going full-on alpine, this trend is surely on the rise.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue and Style.com, Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com, Michele Morosi / Gorunway.com, Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com; Gianni Pucci / GoRunway.com, Mondadori Portfolio, Don Ashby, Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com, Courtesy of Red Valentino and © Sandra Bauknecht

John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela

John Galliano Joins Maiosn Martin Margiela

Finally we have some breaking fashion news again: John Galliano joins Maison Martin Margiela. The designer, who is regarded as one of contemporary fashion’s most outstanding talents, has been absent from the catwalks after he was fired from Dior in 2011 for allegedly making anti-Semitic remarks and assault (for the previous post, please click here).

galliano-embed_3063301aGalliano’s last collection for his eponymous label, shown in Paris in March 2011.

Diesel’s jeans genius Renzo Rosso, whose group OTB controls Margiela via a subsidiary called Neuf, said to WWD: Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul. John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time — a unique, exceptional couturier for a maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that fashion dream that only he can create, and wish him to here find his new home.

margiela-2_3053767aThe latest S/S 2015 Maison Martin Margiela collection, shown during Paris Fashion Week in September 2014.

John Galliano is said to take over the design leadership of all Margiela lines, including couture and the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections. His first designs for his new home are expected to be seen in January during Paris Couture Week. Martin Margiela retired in 2009 and an anonymous team continued his legacy. Even that Galliano doesn’t seem the most obvious choice, I think that he is absolutely capable to revolutionize the brand again.

John Galliano for Christian Dior Fall Winter 2005 Haute CoutureJohn Galliano for Christian Dior F/W 2005 Haute Couture

People have short memories, especially if Galliano delivers a desirable collection. Isn’t it easier to forgive than forget?! Let’s give Galliano a new lease on life… everyone deserves that!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Patrick Demarchelier, Getty Images, Isidore Montag

Fashion at Versailles

Chanel Versailles

Tomorrow, May 14, “Kaiser Karl” will reign over the world of fashion once more. Lagerfeld will show his Resort 2013 collection for Chanel at Versailles. Of course, it will be a big production, but all details are still under wraps. Past Chanel Resort shows have been presented at the Lido in Venice (Resort 2010), and one of my favourites, in St. Tropez (Resort 2011). Their locations usually bewray the inspiration for the collection.

Versailles was the famous place where the French royal family ruled in extravagance for 100 years before the French Revolution. What does come to your mind? As for me, I could only think of excess, rich fabrics, opulence.

 I am truly curious what Karl Lagerfeld has been thinking of.  If anyone is up to the task to pay tribute to Marie Antoinette or to revive those decadent moments in time, it is definitely him. I am sure that he will surprise us as the setting has to be different from his S/S 2011 Chanel show that was based on Versailles’s extensive gardens (see above).

If you look in fashion history, this won’t be the first time Versailles has been used for a show.

Couture 2007-Dior

In 2007, John Galliano rented out the palace for a huge spectacle – Dior‘s 60th anniversary couture show.

Battle of Versailles 1973

In 1973, five upcoming US-designers, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Oscar de la Renta faced off against French couturiers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro in a runway spectacle that became known as the Battle of Versailles.

The French designers were certain of victory, due to their long tradition and know-how. But the Americans had a secret weapon; a vibrant group of eight African-American models plus the wish to conquer the European world of fashion. And the celebrity-packed audience of 800, including a tiara-wearing Princess Grace cheered to their performance. It was that chilly night changed the face and colour of fashion forever.

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There have also been numerous fashion editorials photographed at Versailles over the years.

Above:
1 Shalom Harlow by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994
Diane Krüger by Gilles Marie Zimmerman for Paris Match March 2012
Trish Goff by Steven Meisel for Vogue October 1994

Please enjoy this little summary of some of the most beautiful ones, along with other palace-set shoots by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

French Chic

Jessica Stam and Snejana Onopka by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar Romania November 2007

24hour Couture

Gisele Bündchen by Karl Lagerfeld for Harper’s Bazaar June 2007

Tatler

Vanessa Paradis by Karl Lagerfeld for Tatler Russia July 2012

Stay tuned for the photos of the Chanel Resort 2013 show.

LoL, Sandra

Confirmed: Raf Simons to Take Over at Dior

Raf Simons to take Over at Dior

According to the New York Times today, it is confirmed that Raf Simons, 44, will take over immediately as artistic director at Christian Dior. Supposedly, the Paris fashion house will announce the news on Wednesday officially. Simons will be replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year after he made anti-Semitic remarks.

His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows. The Belgian designer, who worked for the house of Jil Sander before, will be in charge of haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, while keeping his eponymous men’s line.

“I feel fantastic,” Mr. Simons said by telephone from his studio in Antwerp to Suzy Menkes. “It is one of the ultimate challenges, and a dream to go to a place like Dior, which stands for absolute elegance, incredible femininity and utter luxury.”

So my guess in February was right… click here for the previous post.

LoL, Sandra

Wedding Fever

Charlene

It is the weekend of weddings, Charlene Wittstock, now called Her Serene Highness Princess Charlene, has finally married long-time bachelor Prince Albert, son of late Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier, in Monaco and Kate Moss has tied the knot with indie rocker Jamie Hince in Cotswolds. We all have been speculating the last weeks what the famous brides will be wearing for their big day.

Charlene went for Chanel and wore a pale blue suit jacket with beautiful lace trims and a long, flowing skirt.

“It’s a collaboration between me and Karl Lagerfeld,Charlene explained to Vogue. “We wanted something to match the color of my eyes. It is my creation and I’m proud of it. It’s feminine and keeps with tradition yet has a little twist that reflects my personal style. I thought it was a nice change to go for trousers instead of a skirt, especially since I’m an athlete and have always kept my clothes clean and simple.”

Let’s see what she will be wearing today for the religious ceremony. Rumours are that she decided to go for Armani…

Montblanc_Wedding_Pen_Registry_Image_3.jpg_cmyk

Montblanc_Wedding_Pen_Nib.jpg_cmykMontblanc takes part in the crowning moments as they have created a one-of-a-kind writing instrument, a Création Privée from the Artisan Atelier Hamburg, that the couple used to seal their civil union.

The very unique fountain pen is embellished with precious stones (161 rubies and 128 diamonds) and the monogram of the Princely Couple.


Kate Moss

Kate Moss looked absolutely stunning in her John Galliano vintage-style dress with sequins and rhinestone details. She teamed it with Manolo Blahnik shoes.

After the furore in Spring surrounding John Galliano (he was sacked as chief designer of Christian Dior for an anti-semitic tirade), she was said to be in turmoil but she stood by her friend John Galliano after all.

Thereis only one KateWouldn’t you sign this?!

I am invited this weekend as well to two weddings and I am off now to Austria…
Congrats to all newlyweds!

LoL, Sandra

Beautiful and Sad – Dior F/W 2011

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DiorCrewYesterday, despite all the horrible incidents that happened to the famous French fashion house during the last seven days, the Dior F/W 2011 show took place inside the tent situated in the gardens of the Musée Rodin – just without its designer John Galliano who got fired after his anti-Semitic assaults.

But before the models appeared on the catwalk, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano made a speech onstage about the values that Christian Dior has represented for more than six decades. With no word he mentioned John Galliano by name.

In the end of the défilé, the seamstresses and craftsmen who had been working for Galliano over the past 14 years showed up on stage and the audience cheered and clapped.
Isn’t it on one side such a sad ending for such a talented designer as Galliano is and on the other hand so unbelievable that it took an heinous act like that to finally thank the people in the ateliers for their amazing work!


W 2011

I have absolutely loved the collection, the rich colours, lush textures and the bohemian theme. Romantic and edgy, quintessential pillars of the Galliano woman. The buckled knee boots worn with a sweeping cashmere cloak, mmh, just love that! And our Swiss supermodel, Julia Sahner, looked so pretty in the long ruffled chiffon gown, blowing kisses.

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It was completely wrong and despicable what Galliano did but let’s see if he will have a comeback one day. People forget and time changes everything. Did you know that Coco Chanel experienced an exile from the fashion world for nine years after having been denunciated as a Nazi collaboratrice? I detest Galliano for his behaviour but I absolutely love his talent.

LoL, Sandra