Sandra‘s Closet

Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the timeless Arceau watch revels in playing the transformation game. Epitomising Hermès style, its round case with stirrup-shaped lugs welcomes several highly creative and demanding artistic crafts. Enhanced with leather marquetry, silk threads and miniature painting, the Arceau Mon Premier Galop watch thus unites a diverse range of skills. Its singular aesthetic reveals a joyful interpretation of the Mon Premier Galop shawl by artist Tong Ren.

Fascinated by traditional basketry work, the Chinese-born designer combines simple lines, colour blocks and refined decorative-trimming motifs. His drawing depicts a horse moving across the sand, accompanied by a fluttering butterfly and lit up by a mischievous sun playing with the clouds. Its faltering gait imbued with a sense of fragility and daring evokes the moment of grace of those first steps of horseback.

This magical moment comes to life on the dial of the Arceau Mon Premier Galop watch with its 30-piece jigsaw-like nature uniting several skills deeply cherished by Hermès. The sky and the radiant sun are crafted in enamel, a meticulous technique that involves applying a multitude of enamel layers with a brush and drying them in a kiln to guarantee unique colours and contrasts.

Standing out against this radiant blue background, the horse composed of silk threads along with fine tesserae in various shades of leather that are first trimmed to just 0.5 mm thick. Individually assembled on the dial, the leather and silk threads form a delicate, colourful decor enlivened by a tiny hand-painted gold mobile applique.

Issued in a 24-piece limited edition, the Arceau Mon Premier Galop watch in white gold set with 82 diamonds beats to the rhythm of the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement. The sapphire case-back reveals the finishes and the «sprinkling of Hs» motif adorning the bridges and oscillating weight. Adding a final touch, a Zephyr blue Swift calfskin strap accentuates the play on light and textures adorning the watch face.

I am loving it!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès
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Adorned with textured mother-of-pearl, midnight blue lacquer and sparkling diamonds, the Arceau Petite Lune watch in gem-set steel extends an invitation to embark a journey beneath the starry canopy of space.

The Arceau watch designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 combines understatement with creativity in a round shape resting on a stirrup, a nod to the brand’s equestrian roots. Its steel case featuring asymmetrical lugs and a gem-set crown is adorned with 70 diamonds using a cut-down setting technique that highlights the diamonds’ many facets. This setting frames a celestial dial that captures the gaze and propels it into a star-studded night sky.

In a play on chiaroscuro effects, the textured mother-of-pearl reveals its nuances and reliefs in shades of blue lacquer. The moon appears in an iridescent glow, while a constellation of seven diamonds lights up the surrounding darkness. Swept over by slender leaf-shaped hands, this starlit universe is brought to life by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement powering the hours and minutes as well as the moon-phase functions appearing between 10 and 11 o’clock. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the circular-grained, snailed and satin-brushed finishes, as well as the ‘sprinkling of Hs’ motif adorning the bridges and oscillating weight. This timepiece with its fascinating deep hues is fitted with a sapphire-blue alligator strap crafted in accordance with the brand’s saddlery and leather goods expertise.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès
DISCLOSURE: We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise.

A square in a circle, small squares in a large square. Hermès loves to play with shapes. From the distant memory of those children’s games combining colours and volumes, Hermès has given life to a unique and playful watch. It could have been called Double Face, or Recto/Verso. Wow suits it so much better!

Wow, like his original idea. Two years ago, young comic book artist Ugo Bienvenu designed a surprising silk scarf for Hermès. It was named Wow. Why Wow? Because it picks up Hermès’ cherished equestrian spirit and transposes it into the world of comics.

The designer vaulted into the saddle and set his foot in the stirrups to offer small square comic-book-style panels within the large square shape of the silk scarf. Squares, bubbles, animation… A heroine crosses Paris on jet skis, rollerblades, in cars and of course on horseback. Two amused golfers wonder who this intrepid woman is? Amazon, secret agent, Parisian heroine? All that and more: she is the Hermès woman.

The Wow effect comes not only from the pattern, but also from the way in which is created, including a different colour scheme on each side: a multicolored interpretation on the front and a monochrome version on the back.

The idea made its way from Paris to Switzerland and the workshops of Hermès Horloger. A double-sided dial? Why not, as long as it is thin and translucent like the silk thread that inspired it. The obvious choice was mother-of-pearl, a dainty, elegant and feminine material through which the ray of light could shine and enable the artisan to set about creating a playfully radiant motif.

On the first side, the design is initially reproduced in black ink, visible on both sides. It guides the deft touch of the artisan until the last brush stroke. The entire décor of the motif is then hand-painted on this first side. The pastel colours are applied one by one: thick enough to give depth to the design, yet thin enough to let the light shine through – a subtle balance calling for the finest skilled craftsmanship. It takes about 20 layers to bring out every nuance of this design. Each is fired in the kiln at 90 °C to solidify the precious pigment.

The horse and heroine are majestically enthroned on the second face corresponding to the upper dial side of the watch. The colour is sharper, the volume denser, the design is every bit as lively as the rider and her mount. Together, they literally burst out of the dial. The Hermès gallop responds to the silky, muted solid colours painted on the reverse side of the watch with its brightly varied shades, its relief effects and its boldness. While the horse’s movement makes a sudden appearance, it stems from a wealth of meticulous and diligent work involving more than 35 hours to produce a single dial.

This timepiece with its Arceau case designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978 comes in two versions powered by the same Manufacture H1912 self-winding movement. The first flaunts a dial in soft pink tones, while the second opts for bluish accents. Paired with a Hermès calfskin strap, each of these white gold Arceau Wow model features a bezel set with 82 diamonds and is issued in a 24-piece limited edition.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon / Anita Schlaefli
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In 1991, the Cape Cod watch was born beneath the bold pencil strokes of Henri d’Origny. With its «square in a rectangle” case formed by two «anchor chain» half-links, Cape Cod now welcomes a dial with a singular aesthetic uniting and revealing two ordinarily distinct worlds.

In 2018, Hermès initiated a meeting with the Neuchâtel-based Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology (CSEM) as part of its search for a technological innovation that would be dedicated to creativity. This gave rise to a project for a dial made from a silicon wafer, which was to feature the intimate and refined «Crépuscule» (dusk) motif by designer-graphic artist Thanh-Phong Lê.

Used in microelectronics for its semiconductor properties, the silicon wafer was chosen here for its purely aesthetic qualities, representing a first. Depending on the amount of material deposited during production, its colour varies across an infinite palette of subtle and unique shades. This highly technological process is carried out by specialised engineers in the CSEM labs.

The dials of the Cape Cod crépuscule are created from a single 0.5 mm thick plate, which is coated in an extremely precise manner with a tiny (72-nanometre) film of silicon nitride to obtain the desired intense blue colour.

Then comes the photolithography stage, during which the wafer is exposed to a blue light so as to print the pattern. The process involves several successive baths, before the gold-coating stage, followed by other baths to remove any superfluous material. Finally, the plate is precisely cut to the shape of the Cape Cod case.

The dial with its slender gilded hands reveals the bluish shades sprinkled with yellow gold achieved by this unique method combining creativity and nanotechnology. A navy blue calfskin single or double tour strap crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops sets the final touch to the Cape Cod crépuscule watch.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Joël Von Allmen, David Marchon © Hermès, 2022
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Created in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the Arceau watch lends itself to the expression of Hermès skills. Produced in a numbered limited edition of 24, the white gold and diamond Arceau The Three Graces reinterprets the theme of the eponymous silk scarf designed by British artist Alice Shirley in 2020.

Crafted in wood marquetry and miniature painting on aventurine, the elegant giraffe adorning the dial of Arceau The Three Graces was originally inspired by a trip to South Africa, when Alice Shirley had the privilege of spotting three giraffes partially concealed by an acacia tree. The delicacy and poetry of this gigantic creature, with its ample and graceful movements, is highlighted by the skilled touch of Hermès artisans, who have reproduced its natural harmony.

To transpose the animal’s profile, long neck and mottled coat to the scale of a dial, the marquetry specialist begins by transferring and downscaling the design, then rigorously selecting the type, grain and colour of the wood used to reproduce it. In this case that meant a combination of naturally dark, light, stained or bleached wood – American walnut and maple, European sycamore and tulip tree – chosen for their nuances and textures similar to those of the original design. The artisan cuts out the multitude of tiny elements – 195 pieces in all – forming the portrait that is then assembled like a puzzle, before gluing, sanding and applying a protective varnish.

This marquetry decoration comes to life in the heart of a work that also requires meticulous care and a flair for colours. On a scintillating aventurine base, the painter traces the outlines of the motif before placing the piece in the kiln to fix the colours in place. He then forms the various volumes of the background vegetation using successive layers of micro-painting applied with a brush and heat-dried in a kiln. He proceeds in the same way for the flat areas of colours, before finalizing his composition with small precise touches. The challenge of such an endeavour lies in miniaturising a rich palette of nuances, contrasts and subtle details. Several weeks of rigorous discipline, patience and dexterity are required to produce this dial, which is by nature unique.

Representing a combination of artistic crafts and watchmaking, the Arceau The Three Graces watch is powered by the Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement driving hours and minutes hands. The deep hues of the dial, framed by a precious white gold case set with 82 diamonds, are highlighted by a blue sapphire alligator strap made in the Hermès Horloger workshops.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès

The Nantucket watch has been forming solid attachments for almost 30 years. Its story, all about links, began in 1991, when iconoclastic Hermès designer Henri d’Origny boldly sketched the outlines of a companion to the Cape Cod watch, an equally distinctive model named Nantucket.

This assertive timepiece featured a «rectangle within a rectangle», forming an unprecedented case inspired by the anchor chain links of the Chaîne d’ancre bracelet, an Hermès classic imagined by Robert Dumas in 1938.

Nantucket’s story continues today with the Chaîne d’ancre, evoking its early days. This model offers a new take on the iconic link, which merges seamlessly into a light and supple steel or rose gold bracelet. The faithful hours and minutes hands sweep over numerals whose font is also inspired by
the Chaîne d’ancre universe.

The case of the Nantucket is crafted from gold or steel in the Hermès watchmaking workshops, and freely adorned with diamonds. Light plays across the sandblasted silver-plated dial itself thanks to a sprinkle setting, or sparkles brightly in a jewellery setting around a mother-of-pearl dial. With a light and natural touch, Nantucket interweaves its own codes of rebellious elegance.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès

Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau round watch lends its singular design to a new stylistic expression. Its round case with stirrup-inspired asymmetrical lugs, along with its sloping numerals evoking a galloping horse, secure its place in a timeless and playful universe.
Season after season, this discreetly elegant model, offering a quintessential expression of Hermès style showcases the full extent of artistic crafts cultivated by the Maison.

The result of Hermès’s saddlery and leathermaking expertise, 395 mini studs – individually placed on the leather dial of the new Arceau Horse – compose an equestrian motif. The meticulous studding is complemented by the delicate crafting of the black or white leather, both miniaturised to the scale of the dial. The spirited horse comes to life framed by a steel case set with 100 diamonds and secured to the wrist by a calfskin strap matching the dial colour – all produced in the Hermès Horloger workshops. In a fascinating blend of understatement, brilliance and careful attention to every demanding detail, the Arceau Horse boldly flaunts its singularity both by day and by night.

I am loving it and you?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès

The Arceau watch, created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, lends its classic yet distinctive round shape – with its asymmetrical stirrup-inspired lugs – to infinite expressions of Hermès creativity, style and expertise. Its timeless white gold silhouette stages an alliance between leather craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie in a one-of-a-kind pocket watch. Beating to the rhythm of the Manufacture H1924 minute-repeater and tourbillon movement, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! frames a refined white enamel dial, protected by a cover adorned with a tyrannosaurus composed of marquetry and leather mosaic.

After the gruff bear of the Slim of Hermes Grrrrr! and the wolf howling in the moonlight of the Arceau Awooooo, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh! watch is joining the bestiary imagined by English artist Alice Shirley. On this model, the «king of the tyrant lizards» with half-open jaws and an attentive eye comes to life under the expert guidance of Hermès watchmakers, after a month of meticulous work using exclusive techniques developed in its leather workshops.

The design of the tyrannosaurus, which appears to be peeking through a porthole, stands out against the cover and involves a combination of several demanding skills. The head and scales are made in leather mosaic: thousands of finely hand-cut multicoloured leather fragments are applied one by one to faithfully reproduce the original pattern. The domed eye of the dinosaur, visible on both sides of the cover, is made of cabochoncut Grand Feu enamel.

Finally, the jaw and tongue are crafted in leather marquetry: fine tesserae are cut from various coloured leathers, previously thinned to just 0.5 mm, before being juxtaposed on the enamel base. Setting the final touch to this miniaturised leather artwork, a matt green alligator leather cord-strap is secured to the rectangular stirrup and accentuates the overall design.

TECHNICAL DETAILS
One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement
Mechanical hand-wound, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE
Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback
Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique”
Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL
White enamel on a white gold base

COVER
«Aaaaargh» marquetry and leather mosaic motif
Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP
Medium – green alligator leather

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Marchon for Hermès

The Arceau watch, designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, lends its understated yet unique aesthetic to a new expression of time according to Hermès. A playful and paradoxical creation that diverts the moon from its expected role.

Here, the Earth’s satellite itself indicates the time as the numerals whirl in the moonlight, while the minutes hand points to the distant stars of a constellation. Ever since its creation, the round 36 mm case of the Arceau has rested on a rectangular stirrup, tracing a timeless silhouette. Its black bezel adorned with black spinels radiates an intense nocturnal light. Its sunburst glossy black dial is enlivened by a carousel of sloping numerals sweeping over an iridescent moon. Standing out against this radiant darkness are a moon and stars crafted in mother-of-pearl and revealed by luminescent lacquer.

Issued in a limited edition of 300, the Arceau Ronde des heures watch in steel is fastened to the wrist by a strap in black alligator crafted by Hermès artisans. Price: CHF 6450.00.

I find it very beautiful and you?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Hermès

When you cry ‘wolf ’, it appears on the dial of the new Arceau Awooooo ! watch. Crafted in enamel, the silver-furred animal stands out against a starstudded backdrop featuring a slim moon crescent. This miniature scene is beautifully framed by a white gold case and a matte graphite alligator strap.

A new character in the bestiary designed by Alice Shirley, the Arceau watch now calls “Awooooo!” with its motif initially created for a line of men’s scarves. The fascinating yet feared white wolf of myths and fairy stories emerges from the woods, gloriously wild and depicted in miniature on an enamel-painted dial.

In reproducing the refined original design, the wolf and its star-studded background spring to life by dint of meticulous workmanship. The artisan crafts both sides of the transparent white enamel dial, then carefully polishes it to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. The outlines of the motif are then traced and, using an extremely fine brush, various enamel powders are applied mixed with natural oils. Then come several successive stages of coatings, interspersed with drying and firing in the oven, before the painting takes shape in all its magnificent realism.

Using a graphic style and subtle shades of grey, the animal is shown in its natural, essentially nocturnal way of life. A starry night and a slim moon crescent also evoke the cycle of nature, within which the predator plays an essential role. The overall tone matches the white gold case, whose round shape topped by stirrup-shaped lugs houses a Manufacture Hermès movement.

Fitted with a matte graphite alligator strap, its classic design imagined 40 years ago by Henri d’Origny accentuates the elegance of this eight-piece limited edition.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Numbered limited edition of 8
DIAL
White gold base enamelled using the miniature painting technique.
Awooooo motif from a Hermès scarf designed by the artist Alice Shirley
CASE
Round, 41 mm in diameter in 750 white gold (≈ 52 g)
Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back / Water-resistant to 3 bar
21 mm interhorn width
STRAP
Matte graphite alligator with a 750 white gold pin buckle (≈ 5.34 g), 17 mm
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement/ Mechanical self-winding, Swiss made
26 mm in diameter, 3.7 mm thick / 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
50-hour power reserve / Circular-grained and snailed mainplate
Bridges and oscillating weight satin-brushed and adorned with a sprinkling of Hs,
Hermès Paris engraving.
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Hermès / David Marchon