Sandra‘s Closet

Congrats to my friend Tamara Ralph on her collaboration with Audemars Piguet. Both unveiled a new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Inspired by the Haute Couture designer’s aesthetic merging bold femininity, boundless creativity and timeless elegance, this limited edition in 18-carat pink gold shimmers with Frosted Gold and takes on a unique palette of graded hues ranging from brown and bronze to golden tones. This collaboration, which will be revealed on 22 January 2024 during Tamara Ralph’s runway show in Paris for the S/S 2024 Haute Couture Fashion Week, celebrates the natural synergies between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture, while furthering the strong ties that Audemars Piguet has woven with creative worlds over the years.

Tamara and I at lunch at Gigi Ramatuelle in the summer

INSPIRING SYNERGIES
Believing in the power of creativity to feed culture, connect people and broaden horizons, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer has always looked to the larger world for inspiration. Over the years, the Manufacture has fostered enriching dialogues amongst fields of creative practice, including Haute Couture, with which it shares a strong commitment to uncompromising craftsmanship, precision and excellence. In 2020, Audemars Piguet began its partnership with designer Tamara Ralph, pairing several of its watches with her S/S 2021 Prêt-à-Porter collection. Pursuing their enduring relationship, Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph have collaborated this year on the design of a Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon inspired by Ralph’s Couture universe.

«My intention for the design of this piece is for it to capture the spirit and craftsmanship ofboth my brand as well as Audemars Piguet. The complications of watchmaking orchestrate a foundation which can be played with in terms oftextures, colours and designs, allowing for the savoirfaire of couture to shine through. Rich materials, unique colour palettes and ultimate precision are combined, creating an exquisite limited edition of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, inspired by Haute Couture.»
Tamara Ralph – Creative Director and Founder of Tamara Ralph

A REFINED PLAY OF TEXTURES AND LIGHT
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon «Tamara Ralph» Limited Edition showcases an 18-carat pink gold case adorned with Frosted Gold. This ancient Florentine jewellery technique was revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to decorate the Manufacture’s timepieces. Tiny indentations are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool, giving a sparkle effect similar to that of precious stones. lts visual power is accentuated by the polished bevel outlining the octagonal bezel, while the case’s satin-brushed flanks provide added contrast. The juxtaposition of finishing techniques-a meticulous operation which required perfect alignment between the hammered, brushed and polished surfaces-gives sumptuous texture to the case, while bestowing it with endless plays of light. For its part, the caseback’s glareproofed sapphire crystal is held in place by an 18-carat pink gold octagonal frame, finished with satin brushing and polished chamfers and engraved with «Royal Oak Concept Limited Edition.» Lastly, the hexagonal crown, whose shape recalls the stainless steel screws punctuating the bezel, also plays with light thanks to its satin-brushed and polished finishing. lts translucent cabochon-cut sapphire adds yet another touch of feminine elegance to the case design.

A HARMONY OF COLOURS AND LAYERS
The multi-layered dial takes inspiration from the bold femininity and textured detailing of Tamara Ralph’s Couture creations. lt is composed of four overlapping circular pink gold plates, creating a ripple effect as they emanate from the flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. Each layer presents a different colour, evolving from brown in the centre to bronze in the middle, to reach golden tones towards the dial’s extremity. While the brown and golden colours have been achieved through galvanic treatment, the bronze layer is covered with bronze lacquer. The dial is finished with a continuous sunburst satin-finishing radiating from the hands outwards, in seamless alignment from one plate to the other. Pushing details to the limit, each plate is adorned with a thin diamondpolished gold thread that adds depth to the dial. Matching with the circular, multi-layered architecture of the dial, the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock merges technical mastery with sophisticated aesthetic.

The cage’s upper frame incorporates three rings radiating from a decentred disc paved with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.04 carats). lts pink-gold-toned hue echoes the 18- carat pink gold hour and minute hands, both filled with luminescent coating for optimum legibility in the dark. At 12 o’clock, the applied pink gold AP monogram adds the final touch. Hour-markers have been left out to accentuate the purity and harmony of the dial design. The timepiece comes with a bronze-toned hand-stitched «large square scale» alligator strap. lt is also supplied with an additional brown alligator strap recalling the centre of the dial for a refined look. The two straps are decorated with a pearly finishing adding subtle elegance and glamour. The timepiece’s glittering hues and intricate details will catch the eye from up close and afar, just like a Couture piece would.

I am absolutely in love with this timepiece!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet and © Sandra Bauknecht
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Ladies, are you ready for a high-watchmaking novelty. Meet the other side of sweetness as Louis Vuitton demonstrates its advanced mastery in horological automata with a new feminine timepiece.
Introducing the first in-house self-winding automaton movement, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is a distillation of high-watchmaking savoir-faire, enacted by Louis Vuitton’s specialist movement workshop La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. Under the candy-bright hues and alluring textures of an engraved grand feu enamel dial, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata bears a movement of formidable ingenuity and pin-sharp precision. The aesthetic of Louis Vuitton’s latest creation hides a piercing intellect, reminding us that nulla rosa sine spini; there is no rose without its thorn.

A Mechanism In Full Bloom
High watchmaking at Louis Vuitton flowered at the beginning of the 21st century, leading up to the creation of a small handful of bespoke automaton timepieces
for special clients. In 2021, the Maison communicated about this side of the brand’s in-house watchmaking expertise for the first time. Louis Vuitton’s next stride in the realm of automaton timepieces continues to explore the theme of blended passion and savoir-faire.

The motif of a rose and its entwined thorny vines has been taken further than the Maison initially broached in the enamel-dial Escale Spin Time Only Watch (2019). Motion and dynamism define the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, but even more provocative is the revelation that lies beneath the lush petals and glossy heart of its dial, the first in-house enamel dial from Louis Vuitton. At the push of a button at the 8 o’clock position, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata blooms under the touch of its wearer, in a lush profusion of dial animations.

Beware Of Thorns
Time can be dangerous, according to the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, where the hours and minutes are told by thorn-armoured hands on a subdial encircled by inward-facing briars. Those who take time for granted, or let their attention wander, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata seems to say, may soon find themselves in a prickly situation. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides the rhythmic pulse of the watch, marking out the seconds over the course of its one- minute rotation.
At 9 o’clock, a flaming heart, symbol of piety, is emblazoned with the word «SWEET» and crowned with a golden circlet of Louis Vuitton Monogram flowers. A hidden power throbs within the heart, revealed when the pusher at 8 o’clock, set with adamantine gems, is actuated.

Around the hours-and-minutes subdial, an external halo of thorns emerges and extends radially outwards. The enamel roses (one at 12 o’clock and another
at 4 o’clock) are not the demure botanicals they first appeared to be; they have found new vitality, with spinning Monogram flowers at their centers, diamond pistils firing rays of refracted light. The blazing heart roars to life, its flames dancing as if fanned by an invisible gale. The heart cracks open, a jagged fissure revealing that the soothing legend engraved on the heart now comes with a bold caveat: «SWEET BUT FIERCE».

A World Of Mechanical Expression
If knowledge is power, then knowledge (or know-how) that only you have becomes the most powerful thing of all. The unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in innovative horological automata is expressed in one of the most mechanically impressive creations of the Maison to date: the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata. Five separate dial elements form the automaton array of the watch, leaping simultaneously into action when the pusher at 8 o’clock is actuated. The radially extruding thorns surrounding the outer circumference of the hours-and- minutes subdial. The two Monogram flowers at the center of the enamel roses at 4 and 12 o’clock rotate simultaneously. One starts its course clockwise while the other moves in the opposite direction. After a short pause, the two flowers perform the opposite dance. The articulated heart that cracks open to reveal the full message «SWEET BUT FIERCE». Lastly, the gold tongues of fire at the top of the heart that undulate in simulation of real flames.

This unprecedented display of horological virtuosity is the result of three years of research and development within Louis Vuitton’s high-watchmaking atelier. Subtle signs in the movement design and finish indicate that the calibre LFT 325 has been constructed expressly for the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata — a dedicated movement being a time-honoured indication of horological prestige. The micro-blasted movement bridges are decorated with thorny rose stems in pink-gold, sinuously embracing the exposed wheels visible through openworked sections. The 18K pink-gold rotor is also engraved and openworked with Monogram Flowers, as is the automaton regulator bridge at 12 o’clock. The history of the dial continues, sculpting the shapes of the movement. The dance
of colors and the seductive play of textures continue, requiring long hours of research and development to achieve the softness of the gray contrasting with the brilliance of the pink gold. The search for colors, the work on materials and the attention to detail testify to the precision and extreme meticulousness necessary to achieve such a level of finish.

The flying tourbillon frequently makes an appearance in the fine-watchmaking segment of Louis Vuitton timepieces, but the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata
is the first time this mechanism has been combined with a self-winding movement with dial-side automata. As the automaton is driven by its own dedicated mainspring, the flying tourbillon is able to maintain high levels of chronometric performance throughout the 65 hours of movement power reserve. The challenge of synchronising the dial animations of the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata has been answered by the cumulative expertise and experience of the movement development team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, led by master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. While the dial springs into action as if by magic, a glimpse behind the curtain is afforded by the open caseback.

In the upper right quadrant of the movement, an openworked bridge allows a tantalising view of the automaton mainspring, driving wheels and regulator. This complex assembly feeds energy to the seven dial automata, coordinates their running times and also controls the speed at which they operate. On the dial, each graceful motion of the automata, from the opening of the heart and revelation of the secret message, to the spinning Monogram Flowers, the dancing flames and the emerging thorns, is precisely calibrated to produce a 13-second symphony of mechanical excellence, seen nowhere else in the world except on the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata.

Art, Glass, Fire
The grand feu enamel dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata represents an important step for the Maison in terms of in-house savoir-faire — the integration of a millennia-old artisanal craft. The alchemy of grand feu enamel starts with the powdered silica, finely ground by hand and combined with various metal oxides that impart colour to the final result. After the enamel powder is applied to a prepared surface, it is fired in a kiln at temperatures between 700°C and 1,200°C, vitrifying the enamel. This brings out the intense and durable colours that have made grand feu enamel the decorative technique of choice for timepieces over the centuries.

On the dial of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata, a combination of champlevé and cloisonné enamel is used to illustrate the various aesthetic elements. The former involves removing material from the dial surface, creating a space where enamel powder can be deposited. The latter requires the use of thin gold wires, meticulously shaped by hand and fixed onto the dial surface, creating closed cells which can then be filled with enamel. The art of grand feu enamel requires a delicate touch, years of experience and a highly disciplined — and, indeed, technical — approach. After working with some of the most revered enamel artists today, such as the legendary Anita Porchet, who created the dial of the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time Only Watch, the Maison now counts this rare craft as part of its in- house savoir-faire, under the expert hand of its master enameller.

Beauty emerges, refined and transcendent, from the crucible of horological knowledge and combined expertise at Louis Vuitton. The Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is the multi-layered result of the Maison’s approach to fine watchmaking, now elevated to unprecedented levels in all 169 years of Louis Vuitton history.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Louis Vuitton
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In 1987, CHANEL presented its first watch creation, the Première watch, designed for women by its Artistic Director Jacques Helleu. Choosing the octagonal shape of the stopper of the N°5 perfume bottle for its case and dressing it in black lacquer and borrowing the interlaced leather and chain strap of the iconic quilted bag for its bracelet, the Première surprised the watchmaking world that until then had been governed by masculine codes.

In 2022, the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio presents the Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Haute Horlogerie capsule. Composed of 3 creations, the capsule is inspired by the first watchmaking creation of the House, the Première watch, and by its iconic gold interlaced chain. Black and gold set with diamonds, with bracelets that are oversized, many-faceted or dressed with the symbols of the House, the Hors-Série PREMIÈRE watches embody the audacity of an era.

«Exaggerated, agglomerated, superposed, stacked, I have chosen to pay tribute to Première by playing with excess,» says Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the CHANEL Watchmaking Creation Studio.

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Iconic Chain
18K yellow gold case. Black-lacquered dial. 18K yellow gold chain bracelet set with 625 diamonds (~14.28 carats), interlaced with shaved black velvet. High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 625 brilliant-cut diamonds (~14.28 carats). Limited to 5 pieces. *Technical description of a size XS (wrist size: 150 mm).

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Chain Charms
18K yellow gold case. Black-lacquered dial. 18K yellow gold chain bracelet set with 112 diamonds (~3.39 carats), interlaced with black
velvet. 6 charms in yellow gold, onyx and diamonds representing symbols of the House: number 5, lion, camellia, Gabrielle Chanel, comet and byzantine motif. High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 283 brilliant-cut diamonds (~4.82 carats). Limited to 5 pieces.

Hors-Série PREMIÈRE Gourmette Chain
18K yellow gold case. Dial set with 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.37 carat). 18K yellow gold gourmette chain set with 1016 diamonds (~3.89 carats). High precision quartz movement. Functions: hours, minutes. Water-resistance: 30 meters. Dimensions: 19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm. Diamonds: 1132 brilliant-cut diamonds (~4.26 carats). Limited to 5 pieces. *Technical description of a size XS (wrist size: 150 mm).

Love those models so much…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht, Stills: © CHANEL #CHANELPremiere #CHANELHauteHorlogerie
DISCLOSURE: This post is sponsored. We may earn commission from links on this page, but I only recommend products I love. Promise!

Sometimes I receive press releases that literally make me drool over their content. When I read about Audemars Piguet‘s 2021 women novelties, this was about to happen. Those new watch models are amazing, so beautiful and special. Blending tradition with avantgarde, the variegated timepieces offer creative contrasts, from the sleek aesthetics of black ceramics to the shimmering sparkle of Frosted Gold or the vivid hues of multicoloured gemstones. These multifaceted mechanical pieces will be true statements when worn on the wrist.

THROUGH THE LENS OF HARLEY WEIR
Drawing synergies between Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie, photographer Harley Weir explored for Audemars Piguet how a timepiece or a couture look reflects the wearer’s personality and free-spirited attitude. Eclectic in colour, savoir-faire, materials and style, the Audemars Piguet 2021 novelties find inspiration in diverse worlds to present a kaleidoscopic view of the contemporary woman.

A NEW 34 MM ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING DRESSED IN BLACK CERAMICS
The sleek aesthetics of the new Royal Oak Selfwinding in black ceramic is enhanced with pink gold accents for a refined two-tone contrast. Timeless and versatile, the black hues will seamlessly complement the unique style of its wearer.

Adit wears the Royal Oak Selfwinding in black ceramics, accompanied by a short strapless dress in black vegan leather embellished with gold studs.

THE NEW ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING CHRONOGRAPH PLAYS WITH COLOUR AND LIGHT
The new Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph’s 18-carat pink gold case and bracelet are elegantly enhanced by a purple dial and a bezel set with 32 baguette-cut amethysts. The new chronograph in 38 mm will be available solely in Audemars Piguet boutiques. For the first time, the Manufacture is offering a solid 18-carat pink gold timepiece with a bezel that has been set with an array of baguette-cut amethysts. These purple gemstones surround and match the tones of the timepiece’s purple dial to perfection. Developed by the Manufacture’s artisans, the timepiece’s dial displays a range of purple hues that dance and change colour in the light.

Katlin wears the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph adorned with amethysts, matched with a long evening gown with an asymmetric bust in fuchsia silk, pleated and split at the front.

A NEW ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD SELFWINDING MODEL IN 34 MM WITH BLUE DIAL
Audemars Piguet is expanding the 34 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding collection, established in April 2020, with a new reference shimmering with Frosted Gold – a jewellery technique developed in 2016 in collaboration with Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. The 18-carat white gold piece is further enhanced with a Tapisserie dial in new shades of blue.

Chin Chin wears the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding, dressed up with a long body-hugging gown in sequined ruthenium jersey.

RAINBOW MEETS FROSTED GOLD IN THE LATEST ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED
Last but not least, here comes my favorite: Rainbow meets Frosted Gold. Audemars Piguet will complement its Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked series with three new references in 41 mm and two in 37 mm, all displaying a rainbow bezel composed of multicoloured gemstones and emphasizing the scintillating effect of the Frosted Gold case. The watches will be exclusively available in Audemars Piguet’s Boutiques as of October 2021.

Ola wears the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, with a technicoloured organza and translucent 3D hand-casted dress.

Frosted Gold models in yellow and pink gold also make their debut in the collection. Keeping with the aesthetics of the current 41 mm offering, the new yellow, pink or white Frosted Gold case and bracelet are contrasted by the openworked movement’s slate grey NAC-coated bridges and enhanced by the dial’s black inner bezel. The two-tone design is accentuated as the double balance wheel at 8 o’clock takes on yellow gold-toned, pink gold-toned or rhodium-toned hues to echo the case’s colour. Similarly, the hour-markers and luminescent Royal Oak hands are crafted in yellow, pink or white gold.

THE 37 MM COLLECTION EXPANDS ITS OFFERING
The Manufacture releases two new 37 mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked references in 18-carat pink and yellow gold for the smaller wrists to complement the 18-carat white gold piece launched in 2019. Both sport a matching pink or yellow gold-toned openworked movement, sharply contrasted by the blackened openworked barrel at 1 o’clock which discloses the watch’s mainspring. In the same tone as the movement and case, the pink or yellow gold hour-makers and luminescent Royal Oak hands blend in to foreground the artistry of Calibre 3132.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Harley Weir – Inès Dieleman – Courtesy of Audemars Piguet
DISCLOSURE: This post is NOT sponsored. I am loving it.

The Arceau watch, created by Henri d’Origny in 1978, lends its classic yet distinctive round shape – with its asymmetrical stirrup-inspired lugs – to infinite expressions of Hermès creativity, style and expertise. Its timeless white gold silhouette stages an alliance between leather craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie in a one-of-a-kind pocket watch. Beating to the rhythm of the Manufacture H1924 minute-repeater and tourbillon movement, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! frames a refined white enamel dial, protected by a cover adorned with a tyrannosaurus composed of marquetry and leather mosaic.

After the gruff bear of the Slim of Hermes Grrrrr! and the wolf howling in the moonlight of the Arceau Awooooo, the Arceau Pocket Aaaaaargh! watch is joining the bestiary imagined by English artist Alice Shirley. On this model, the «king of the tyrant lizards» with half-open jaws and an attentive eye comes to life under the expert guidance of Hermès watchmakers, after a month of meticulous work using exclusive techniques developed in its leather workshops.

The design of the tyrannosaurus, which appears to be peeking through a porthole, stands out against the cover and involves a combination of several demanding skills. The head and scales are made in leather mosaic: thousands of finely hand-cut multicoloured leather fragments are applied one by one to faithfully reproduce the original pattern. The domed eye of the dinosaur, visible on both sides of the cover, is made of cabochoncut Grand Feu enamel.

Finally, the jaw and tongue are crafted in leather marquetry: fine tesserae are cut from various coloured leathers, previously thinned to just 0.5 mm, before being juxtaposed on the enamel base. Setting the final touch to this miniaturised leather artwork, a matt green alligator leather cord-strap is secured to the rectangular stirrup and accentuates the overall design.

TECHNICAL DETAILS
One-of-a-kind creation

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Hermès H1924 movement
Mechanical hand-wound, crafted in Switzerland
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 8.89mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon

CASE
Shape/size: Round, 48 mm in diameter
Material: White gold case and cover
Watch glass: Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback
Caseback engraved with the inscription “Pièce unique”
Water resistance: 3 bar

DIAL
White enamel on a white gold base

COVER
«Aaaaargh» marquetry and leather mosaic motif
Grand Feu enamel eye

LEATHER CORD-STRAP
Medium – green alligator leather

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © David Marchon for Hermès

Straight from sunny Florence I flew to back to snowy Switzerland to visit the manufacture of Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux. Being the oldest fine watchmaker that is still in the hands of its founding families (Audemars and Piguet), I had the chance to indulge in the brand’s history and to explore the craftsmanship first hand.

Wearing a work coat and shoe covers for protection at the manufacture.

The modern part of the manufacture.

Since 1875, the company has written some of the finest chapters in the history of Haute Horlogerie, including a number of world firsts. At the heart of the Swiss Jura, numerous masterpieces are created in limited series embodying a remarkable degree of horological perfection, including daring sporty models, classic and traditional timepieces, splendid ladies’ jewellery-watches, as well as one-of-a-kind creations.

I was deeply impressed seeing the precision that goes into the assemblage of the 3120 movement that comes also with my favorite watch, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold  – 37 mm .

The entrance to the museum.

Over the years, Audemars Piguet has collected vintage models that are beautifully presented in the in-house museum that is only open to private tours.

An impressive family history

Musical watch, around 1840, Piguet & Meyland

Repetition Minutes, 1875, Louis Audemars

The first Royal Oak was designed by Gérald Genta in 1972.

Until today, all information on sold watches are written down by hand. In the ’30s, customers included Bulgari, Van Cleef and Bucherer.

At the moment, Audemars Piguet is building a new museum in Le Brassus designed by Danish architectural firm BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group). Incorporating the existing building, the new form of a hairspring will showcase the history of the oldest, family owned watchmaker (see below).

LoL, Sandra

Collage and last photo: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet, all other photos: © Sandra Bauknecht