Must-Have S/S 2014: The Pleated Skirt

Pleats Please Cover SS2014

Pleats are a must this season, spotted at the S/S 2014 runway shows of Haider Ackermann, Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler and Dries Van Noten. But how do you wear this trend without looking too conservative? Actually, it is very easy. Calf length skirts are the way to go. Preferably they come with some metallic details to add a little bling to your look.

The three pleated skirts of desire are this summer:

1Plissé cotton-blend midi skirt by Dries Van Noten
2Snake-print pleated crepe maxi skirt by Dries Van Noten
3 Foil-paneled pleated cloqué maxi skirt iconby Proenza Schouler
(I couldn’t resist this one…).

LoL, Sandra

Proenza Schouler Skirt

Photos: Courtesy of Dries Van Noten, Proenza Schouler and © Sandra Bauknecht

Street Style Munich: Rose

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Meet my friend Rose, Styling Director of MYTHERESA.COM, who always puts a cool twist to every outfit. Today, she is casual and ultra stylish in one.

Get her look: Printed cotton tee iconand mini skull bracelet, both by Alexander McQueen,maxi skirt by Haider Ackermann, snake print clutch by Lanvin, golden sandals by Valentino.

LoL, Sandra

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Rose-Acc

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Photos: Courtesy of mytheresa.com

Purple x Bulgari Dinner at Café de Flore

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Sunday night, I had a blast in Paris at the Purple x Bulgari dinner at the famous Café de Flore, followed by the after party at Le Montana. The room was filled with the “Who’s Who in High Fashion” and of course many celebrities such as Tilda Swinton and Adrien Brody.

Enjoy some of the impressions! It doesn’t get more “in” than here…

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Caroline Gaimari (Purple) with me

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Famous crowd: Tilda Swinton, Haider Ackermann, Betony Vernon, Sandro Kopp, Waris Ahluwalia, and founder/owner of Purple Olivier Zahm

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Arriving from the Givenchy F/W 2013 runway show with an extravagant hairdo: Models Magdalena Frackowiak and…

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…Isabeli Fontana, here with Olivier Zahm

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Patrick Liotard-Vogt (Chairman A Small World) and Olivier Zahm

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Olivier Zahm and designer Haider Ackermann

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Patrick Liotard-Vogt with me

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Charlotte Stockdale, Derek Blasberg, Samantha Traina, and Gaia Repossi

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One of my favourite designers: Olivier Theyskens with me

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At the after party at Le Montana

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Waris Ahluwalia

I truly had a blast and went to bed far too late. But when I got to my hotel room, I had a meltdown when spotting the fag burns in my beloved strapless lace and tulle dress iconby Dolce & Gabbana.

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I truly hope that Dolce & Gabbana can save this amazing piece!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Purple © Stéphane Feugère, © Sandra Bauknecht

The Cannes Catwalk on the Opening Night

Cannes Catwalk

For the Cannes Film Festival 2012’s opening night, the who’s who of Hollywood came down to the Côte d’Azur. Here are the best dressed ladies of this amazing night. Enjoy!

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Jury member Diane Kruger looked amazing in a mint green sheer couture gown by Giambattista Valli.

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Eva Longoria wore a flowing, feathered train gown by Marchesa in which she had quite some problems walking on the red carpet.

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American singer Lana Del Rey was wearing a classy black long dress by Alberta Ferretti that gave all the attention to the 18-carat white gold necklace set with a 31 carats yellow pear-shaped diamond by Chopard.

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Eva Herzigova, the Czech model, was wearing a lace gown by Dolce Gabbana combined with the Marilyn Monroe Tribute set from the Red Carpet collection composed of a necklace in 18-carat white gold set with beads diamonds (151.64 cts), heart shaped diamonds (30.72 cts) and diamonds (18.53cts). Earrings en suite. All by Chopard.

Actress Tilda Swinton, who stars in Wes Anderson’s Moonrise Kingdom, wore a bronze gown by her fashion friend, designer Haider Ackermann.

Freida

Slumdog Millionaire actress Freida Pinto wore a strapless beaded bodice gown, with a peplum pink satin skirt by Michael Angel, accessorized by Chopard jewelry.

Jane Fonda

The legendary Jane Fonda, wearing Chopard jewelry, looked absolutely stunning at 74  in a form-fitting metallic gown from Stella McCartney‘s new evening collection I saw her during the day at the Chopard lounge and was overwhelmed by her charisma.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: ©VALERY HACHE/AFP/GettyImages, ©Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images, ©Rex, ©Lia Toby / WENN

Trend Report S/S 2012: Paisley

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Paisley, the Indian heritage print of swirling curling shapes finds new style currency this S/S 2012 season.

Silky pyjama pieces present an alluring eveningwear option as seen at Stella McCartney.

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Paisley-print shirt by Stella McCartney

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Paisley-print silk pants iconby Stella McCartney

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Matthew Williamson retained a boho air to his paisley pieces with beautiful embellishments in vibrant colours while Haider Ackermann added coolness to the classic print.

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Embroidered feather-trimmed silk-organza dress iconby Matthew Williamson

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Jil Sander was the master protagonist of the paisley trend, stamping swirls across demure, tailored shapes for a fresh way to wear the print. The neon-style colours are a fresh addition to your summer wardrobe.

Emilio Pucci famed for its swirls of pattern, splashed psychedelic paisley on floor-sweeping skirts.

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Lunetta paisley-print woven dress iconby Jil Sander

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Appliquéd cotton-blend voile maxi skirt iconby Emilio Pucci

Stay tuned for an upcoming post with me wearing paisley-print pieces.

LoL, Sandra

Style Star Tisci for Dior

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While Dior still hasn’t officially announced Galliano’s successor (and they won’t probably until September), the suspicion hardens that Ricardo Tisci, Givenchy’s Creative Director, will be the one. Since John Galliano’s unpleasant exit, Dior’s dresses have been stigmatised on the red carpet. In return, we have been spotting much more Givenchy lately. Might be a sign…

Liv-Tyler-Mary-Kate-Olsen-Alicia-Keys-Givenchy-dresses-met-Gala-2011Liv Tyler, Mary-Kate Olsen and Alicia Keys wore Givenchy Haute Couture to the Met Gala in New York this month.

NaomiNaomi Campbell was a fringed beauty in an embroidered evening gown at the amfAR 2011 Fight Against Aids party in Cannes last Thursday. Photo: © PacificCoastNews

CourtneyFor the same gala, Courtney Love chose an absolutely spectacular Givenchy Couture gown with a plunging neckline and a sheer tulle-and-feather skirt.
Photo: © Francois Durand/Getty Images Europe

BeyoncéBeyoncé wore Givenchy for her video for her single Run The World (Girls)

As for me, Ricardo Tisci would be a great choice. I have been a big fan of his creations for a long time. He will surely infuse more gothic appeal to Dior but that doesn’t need to be bad, doesn’t it? And when Tisci leaves Givenchy, Haider Ackermann could succeed. I think I like that idea very much!

LoL, Sandra

From Runway to Gaga

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Haider Ackermann S/S 2011 graces the cover

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011 graces the cover

Lady Gaga is on the cover of US Vogue March 2011, photographed by Mario Testino.

As the March edition is the most important for the S/S collections (the same as September is for F/W), it is no wonder that Gaga dons the must-have looks for the warm season.
So please enjoy the highlights, especially the three sensational McQueen shots. From runway to Gaga, very dramatic and definitely different.

The interview with US Vogue also helps Gaga to promote her new album „Born This Way“: The seventeen-track CD will include such songs as „Hair“, „Bad Kids“, „Americano“, „Government Hooker“, and the second single „Judas“.

LoL, Sandra




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Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

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Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

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Louis Vuitton S/S 2011

Louis Vuitton S/S 2011

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Haider Ackermann S/S 2011

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011

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Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

Lady Gaga in her own Hussein Chalayan leather jacket

Lady Gaga in her own Hussein Chalayan leather jacket

Top Trend S/S 2011: YSL Mood

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On the S/S 2011 runways, there was an Yves Saint Laurent mood in the air. Many designers got inspired by the late master of colour and the father of the trouser suit.

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Yves Saint Laurent

The reason for this was probably the beautiful first posthumous retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent’s career with an exhibition of over 300 garments that took place last year at the Petit Palais museum in Paris. On display were his creations from his debut at Dior in 1958 up to the sumptuous evening dresses of 2002.

In 40 years of being a fashion designer, YSL revolutionized the female wardrobe by borrowing the tuxedo, the trouser suit and the safari jacket from men’s clothing in order to dress women, thereby transferring the symbols of power from one sex to another.

In 1961 Yves Saint Laurent decided to create his couture house. Just under 50 years ago, in January 1962, at the age of 26, he created a cultural shockwave by opening his first haute couture show with a caban jacket and trouser ensemble directly inspired by a fisherman’s pea coat.

The era in particular that was referenced for S/S 2011 was the 1970’s when Saint Laurent spent a tremendous amount of time at his second home in Marakkesh in his beautiful Majorelle botanical gardens. While being there he was greatly influenced by traditional Morrocan dressing and the gardens. His ashes were scattered there when he died in 2008.

I am in love with all those collections that are paying tribute to one of the greatest fashion designers of the 20th century and took the runways by storm. Therefore I put some collages for you together. I included photos of the exhibition of his previous creations to demonstrate the versatile references.

Enjoy this feast for the eyes.

LoL, Sandra

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My Top Twenty for S/S 2011

My Top Twenty for S/S 2011

Today, I would like to give you a preview of my Top 20 runway shows for S/S 2011 that I consider the key collections for the next season.

The overall spirit was light-hearted and positive sweeping away the last bit of sobriety. The designers’ colouring box was bright and vibrant with lots of neon shades, vibrant stripes and bold tones.  Many tributes to YSL as well as the 70s were spotted, along with biker and punk themes, floral prints and embroideries, Marrakesh and Shanghai references and pure clean white. Enjoy!

Louis Vuitton S/S 2011

LOUIS VUITTON: Marc JacobsS/S 2011 show for the French fashion house was a hell of a lot of fun, brazen in decadence. A colourful free-spirited collection for the camped-up China girl that loves high-voltage chic. Inspirations from 1930 Shanghai’s Art Deco style to a 70’s New York disco atmosphere were seen in the Cheongsam dresses and bold tiger stripes
As for me one of my favourites this season.

Prada S/S 2011

PRADA: Miuccia Prada’s message was crystal-clear: „It’s time to be bold“. Her ecclectic humours take on her S/S 2011 collection was visionary. Fake baroque paintings (Who would have ever imagined that baroque can be minimal?!), fluorescent stripes, Josephine Baker banana designs and Mexican sombreros lead to that iconic Prada-twist that likes to surprise us.
I am loving it!!!!

Jil Sander S/S 2011

JIL SANDER: An implicit change to the Jil Sander woman, that was this collection about. Minimalism inversed into a modern maximalism that led to couture. Raf Simons surprised the fashion crowd with this exceptional S/S 2011 show.
Simple white tees dominated long, full skirts joined with YSL’s rich associations of colours. The shapes were reminiscent of Cristobal Balenciaga’s proportions. The apostel for minimalism, Raf Simons, showed us another optimistic side of the Sander woman without betraying the spirit of the label. Wow! And by the way, the fuchsia lips are gorgeous…

Christopher Kane S/S 2011

CHRISTOPHER KANE: „Princess Margaret on acid“, this is how Tammy described her brother’s S/S 2011 collection. It was an interesting vision of the future, brilliant and different, like the designer and his place in English fashion. Fluoresent colours and print motifs inspired by yakuza tattoos lightened up the classic and kind of formal pieces.
Watch out for Christopher, this guy is provoking trends!

Marc Jacobs S/S 2011

MARC JACOBS: There were many YSL references on the catwalks and Marc Jacobs was one of the first ones showing them in New York. By taking on the energy of the Studio 54 years and the ’70s, the brilliant American designer came up with one of his best collections, fresh, charming with a modern new spin, an ode to Missoni’s zigzag knits.
I cannot wait to get my hands on the peasant blouses and full skirts. My summer must-haves.

Gucci S/S 2011

GUCCI: Yves Saint Laurent’s Marrakech years were in the air and a breeze of the ’70s omnipresent at Frida Giannini’s collection  for Gucci. Alternating between electric glamour, safari chic and ethnic touches, the Italian powerhouse continued to celebrate the female silhouette and its seductiveness. You cannot go wrong with this!

Emilio Pucci S/S 2011

EMILIO PUCCI: A beautiful Greek Mediterranean vibe highlighted the collection that was seventies-inflected and mostly long. Peter Dundas knows his craft and the jetset girls will love his luxe hippie dresses worn with laced boots. Nonchalant, elegant, seductive details of which some were a little reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent will make Pucci a bestseller this summer.

Yves Saint Laurent S/S 2011

YVES SAINT LAURENT: The seventies are everywhere this summer and so is YSL. Thanks to the retrospective that was held this year in Paris, many designers were influenced by the epic Saint Laurent. But none could stake a more legitimate claim to the Master’s inspirations than Stefano Pilati’s work.
He revisited the codes of the fashion house one by one, „le smoking“, the famous palette of orange and pink, French blue, black and beige, abundant bows and the sophisticated tailleurs. I am so on for a trip down memory lane, and you?

Chanel S/S 2011

CHANEL: This time, Karl Lagerfeld took his inspiration from the early sixties movie Last Year at Marienbad and created a breathtakingly surreal setting. More than 80 models paraded through the ornamental garden with fountains, water features and gravel paths. The collection was so rich, full of couture details with dégradé chiffon florals, tweed patchwork, feathered edges and more. Just beautiful!

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2011

MARY KATRANTZOU: It was her first stand-alone show with which she won the Swiss Textiles Award 2010 in November. Mary Katrantzou is one of the hottest fashion newscomer with her groundbreaking creations. The designer of Greek origin worked in three dimensions and was inspired by the decors and backgrounds of the most beautiful of Guy Bourdin’s and Helmut Newton’s photos.
There was an almost hallucinatory depth to her digital printed clothes. The real revolution was how Mary modeled the shape to go with the graphics of interior designs. Are you up for wearing “room” this summer?

Alexander McQueen S/S 2011

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Sarah Burton who had worked beside McQueen for 15 years, took over the cepter after the designer’s death last February. The S/S 2011 show, her first solo one, grabbed hold of his legacy and defined the same fantasia McQueen was so famous for. This time a hymn to nature, superb in its construction.
One of the biggest differences was that Burton softened the staging, a concept that was always so  vital to a McQueen show. It was a pleasure to see that there is a more feminine vision for the house but with the same theatrical love for detail.

Hermès S/S 2011

HERMES: Time to say good-bye for Jean-Paul Gaultier and he couldn’t have done it better. His last collection for the traditional French house boasted of master tailoring, sensuous glamour and leather at its finest. “Zorro in Andalusia” celebrates Hermès’ equestrian elegance heritage could have been the headline. Good luck to Lacoste defector Christophe Lemaire! Taking these luxurious reins seems to be quite difficult…

Céline S/S 2011

CELINE: The collection was once more strong in its remarkable simplicity even that Phoebe Philo laid her hands on artisanal effects like hand-woven silks, fringes and vibrant colours. Her motto „less is forever chic“ has determined the codes of her hugely influential designs.

Chloé S/S 2011

CHLOE: Minimalism at its best. Classic, timeless pieces that women can make their own and customise at will. The tutu-like skirts, reminiscent of the world of ballet, were among my favourites. Congrats, Hannah MacGibbon, for this lovely collection!

Erdem S/S 2011

ERDEM: Erdem Moralioglu, the upcoming designer of Turkish origin, took his audience to Russia for his S/S 2011 presentation in a London park. He had been involved this summer with Victoria & Albert Museum’s Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, 1909-1920 exhibition.
The experience had been so inspiring that it shaped the substance of his collection where delicate dresses that clearly reflected the structure and flou of ballet costumes dominated the look. Once again floral motifs sprinkled the collection and were complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood’s gorgeous shoes tied up the calf like ballet slippers. I am sure that we will see much more of Erdem in the future.

Stella McCartney S/S 2011

STELLA MCCARTNEY: Even that I have to admit that I prefered Stella’s cruise 2011 collection, I am always in love with her practical, easy chic. The mother of four knows what she is talking about. Her key pieces are ideal companions to feel good in, even her long skirts split up the thighs swing comfortably with class. First bananas at Prada, now grapefruits and lemons at Stella that put us in a good mood. Her suits in pastel colours were strong on the runway and denim made a boxy shape debut. Thumbs up!

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011

HAIDER ACKERMANN: One thing is for sure, the days that Haider Ackermann was only a fashion insider’s favourite secret are definitely over. His S/S 2011 collection was outstanding in its beauty. Origami folds, kimono jackets and obi belts were among the Asian references. Dramatic effects and strong colours for a glamorous red carpet moment.

Dior S/S 2011

DIOR: Betty Page, the model from the 50s that invented the pin-up look, goes on vacation to Hawaii – this South Pacific-style fantasy dominated John Galliano’s collection for Dior. The colours and floral prints on exquisite chiffons, the ankles tied with satin, this island extravaganza put you immediately in the holiday mood. Very cute.

Balenciaga S/S 2011

BALENCIAGA: This was probably the most futuristic, unexpected and innovating collection of all. Nicolas Ghesquière defied the fashion codes and came up with new ones. His teddy boy-meets-punk masculinity was the reaction to a certain kind of sexiness. For him it was all about individuality. The talented fashion troublemaker used plasticized textures and couture techniques that were modernized with laser machine precision cuts.
It might take a while to adapt to the look but once you get it, you will be all over it!

Balmain S/S 2011

BALMAIN: Honestly, the time of Balmain might come to an end as there are always the same sharp-tailored rock allure pieces on the runway but I still love them so much.
This time, Christophe Decarnin shortened the shorts and minis as much as he could and looked for punk rebellion for inspiration. Studded and safety pinned biker jackets, bleached jeans and holey T-shirts were among his favourites. Let’s hope that the Balmainia is still strong enough to convince the fashionistas to pay so much for this DIY-look…

Stay tuned as I will go much more into detail during the next weeks about the trends and must-haves for S/S 2011.
If you are interested which collections were my Top 20 for F/W 2010, please click here.

To a very promising and cheerful looking summer!

LoL, Sandra

The Nun`s Story

Fashion Blasphemy

This fall, designers might have to ask for forgiveness after their fashion blasphemy on the F/W 2010 runways. So many collections evoked religion. It was hard not to think episcopally when looking at all those nun-, priest- and church-inspired looks.
Wimplelike head coverings, white collars, shoulder-covering capes, black and white combined colour combinations, and modest long skirts gave a strong impression of a Catholic convent. The long single chain necklaces brought up the image of a rosary and the drawstring belts reminded of a monk`s habit. Most designers added a goth spice to it. But see for yourself:

Faith


Lust


Sin


Chastity


Forgiveness


Take the religious symbolism with humour and not too seriously. Fashion is sometimes playing dress-up and that can be a lot of fun. So who wants to be the next sister Luke?
Audrey Hepburn looked so beautifully in The Nun`s Story 1959 and so can you. Have faith in yourself and come up with your own fashion bible! Even if it is just a cross pendant…

Your heavenly followers will gather around you.

LoL, Sandra