Watch Out for the Blue Watch Trend

The colour of kings, blue, was unquestionably one of the stars of the SIHH 2018 (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), a unisex shade for both, men and women, that recounts watchmaking’s noble origins. Once the exception to the rule, blue has become one of watchmakers’ go-to colours. Indigo or azure, sky or cerulean, teal or navy, the year’s collections have revealed a vast palette of fashionably chic shades. Dials as blue as the ocean’s deep or as luminous as the sky, diamonds embellishing watches to ignite desire, colourful straps that bring originality to the wrist.

Whether matched with the soft sheen of pink gold, the warmth of yellow gold, or contrasting with the icy purity of steel, blue has the faculty to adapt to every style and material.
Please see for yourself:

MEN’s WATCHES

Clockwise from top left:
Kalpagraphe Chronomètre by Parmigiani Fleurier
Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu by Ulysses Nardin
Clifton
by Baume & Mercier
Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel by Hermès

Excalibur Aventador S by Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis dares to be rare once again and goes where others fear to tread – by launching colourful iterations of its iconic Excalibur line in conjunction with partners Perfect Fit Pirelli and Raging Mechanics Lamborghini Squadra Corse at SIHH 2018.

Offering yet another stunning example of highly complicated watchmaking inspired by the automotive world, the Roger Dubuis x Lamborghini Squadra Corse partnership roars to life in 2018 with the 45 mm Excalibur Aventador S Blue vying for pole position by being crafted from the same C-SMC carbon as that used on the actual Lamborghini cars.
Limited to 88 pieces.

Freak Vision by Ulysee Nardin

Introducing the first automatic watch in the Freak Collection, the Freak Vision. Among the game-changers: a super-light silicium balance wheel with nickel mass elements and stabilizing micro-blades and a new case design made even thinner by a box-domed crystal. Time is still indicated in the «Freak» manner that sets the collection apart: by the baguette movement itself, a  50 hours «flying carrousel» rotating around its own axis.

Yet the design components are completely different. The new 3D carved upper bridge is inspired by a boat’s hull. Finally, the entire 45mm platinum case itself is new—horns, bezel, the rubber on the side—making for a look that is much more open and generous.

WOMEN’s WATCHES

Clockwise from top left:
Millenary Hand-Wound Ladies Watch by Audemars Piguet (with interchangeable straps)
Laureato Royalty, 34mm
by Girard-Perregaux
Sweet Alhambra  Watch
by Van Clef & Arpels
Possession Watch, 29mm
by Piaget

Clockwise from top left:
Luminor Due 3 Days, 42mm & Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic, 38mm, both by Panerai
Bohème Automatic Date, 34mm
by Montblanc
Slim d’Hermès Mythiques Phoenix Coloriages, 39mm by Hermès
Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium
by Jaeger-LeCoultre

One is more beautiful than the other… the decision is all yours.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
Single Photos of Roger Dubuis, Ulysee Nardin: Courtesy of the Brands

Celestial Watches at SIHH 2018

 As you already know, I am over the moon when it comes to an aventurine dial. For me, it is as infinite as the universe itself. Coming back to earth, at SIHH 2018, I spotted some «out of this world» timepieces in stellar blue that I would like to share with you today.

But before let me give you a little information about aventurine glass that was created by accident as it is the case for many superb inventions. In the 19th century, a glass-blower in the Italian city of Murano happened to spill some copper shavings into molten glass. This gave rise to aventurine glass, now a much sought-after material, scattered with metal inclusions and named after the Italian expression «a l’avventura», literally «by chance» – a tribute to this lucky twist of fate.

Lady Arpels Planétarium™ Poetic Complications watch by Van Cleef & Arpels

Four years after unveiling the Midnight Planétarium™ watch, Van Cleef & Arpels is restyling this iconic creation, offering an original women’s edition to enrich the universe of Poetic Astronomy. Distinguished both by refined aesthetics and its automatic movement, developed exclusively for the Maison, the Lady Arpels Planétarium watch illustrates the Sun and the closest planets: Mercury, Venus and finally Earth, along with its natural satellite, the Moon. Each heavenly body moves at its actual speed, orbiting the dial in 88 days for Mercury, 224 days for Venus and 365 days for Earth. In a key innovation for this piece, the Moon itself rotates around the Earth in 29.5 days, performing a visible celestial ballet on the dial, day after day.

Kalparisma Nova Galaxy by Parmigiani Fleurier

In 2008, Parmigiani Fleurier launched the Kalparisma family, its first mechanical collection
for women. The brand is now celebrating the tenth anniversary of this phenomenal
collection with the Kalparisma Nova Galaxy, a watch that is more feminine and captivating
than ever.

Parmigiani Fleurier is a pioneer in the use of Aventurine in watchmaking (for my favorite watch, click here please) and has numerous special editions that showcase the material on their dials. These pieces are called «Galaxy» as a reminder of the sparkling constellations evoked by the material. Likewise, the Kalparisma Nova Galaxy represents a star-scattered sky that tells the story of the passage of time. One of the principal high points of the Kalparisma collection is its small seconds at 6 o’clock, which takes the form of a star performing one revolution per minute. This little star has found its ultimate place at the heart of a dial designed to represent the galaxy. In astronomy, «Nova» refers to a star that suddenly becomes very bright.


It is available in two majestic versions. The first, in rose gold with its shimmering reflections, matches the indices and Nova star. The sides of the case are set with 46 Top Wesselton diamonds for a total of ~0.84 carats and a glittering play of light. The stone-set rose gold edition is limited to 50 pieces. It is joined by the even more exclusive white gold version: a total of 8 pieces with a dazzling «snow» setting (see collage above). The entire case is set with painstakingly arranged diamonds in sizes expertly selected by the master stone-setter – smaller on the periphery, and gradually getting bigger as they near the case’s curves. Each of the 182 stones has a role to play in this ~2.28-carat fresco.

Saxonia Thin in Copper Blue by A. Lange & Söhne

Celestial canopy for the wrist – a copper-blue dial imparts fascinating depth and charisma to the thinnest A. Lange & Söhne timepiece. The elegant personality of the latest Saxonia Thin version is based on the «less is more» principle. Its elegant white-gold case is merely 6.2 millimetres thick and has a diameter of 39 millimetres. The case colour is echoed by the two slender hour and minute hands as well as the twelve hour markers in rhodiumed gold. It is crafted from solid silver and coated with a thin layer of subtly shimmering goldstone. Microscopically small copper oxide crystals saturate the deep blue with choreographed reflections that are reminiscent of the stars in the blue midnight sky. A dark-blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap rounds out the expressiveness of the watch. Its puristic elegance is complemented by a manually wound movement finished to the highest standards of Saxon watchmaking artistry. The technical features of the manufacture calibre L093.1 – it is a scant 2.9 millimetres thick – include a flat mainspring barrel which delivers a maximum power reserve of 72 hours despite its compact size.

Cat’s Eye Day & Night High Jewellery by Girard-Perregaux

The Cat’s Eye collection is one of the most loyal ambassadors of ladies’ watches and now it has been transformed it for the very first time into a High Jewellery interpretation. Above and beyond the metamorphosis highlighting the fairytale sparkle of diamonds, this new creation tells its very own story.


This stunning white gold watch comes with an aventurine night-sky, diamond paved dial and moon figure with brilliant-cut diamonds. On the dial, there are  149 brilliant-cut diamonds ~0.52 ct, on the case  52 brilliant-cut diamonds ~2.31 cts and on the buckle 14 brilliant-cut diamonds ~0.118 ct.
The see-through case-back reveals the reliable in-house manufactured movement made of 218 components and the gold oscillating weight delicately engraved with «GP» logos forming a decorative pattern.

My absolute favorite watch that features an aventurine dial is the Tonda 1950 Galaxy by Parmigiani Fleurier that was launched at SIHH 2017.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of the Brands and © Sandra Bauknecht

Cat’s Eye Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie

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Girard-Perregaux presents a rare creation that combines the jeweler’s art with the brand’s watchmaking virtuosity: the Cat’s Eye Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie.

At its heart beats the iconic Girard-Perregaux tourbillon with gold bridge, lit up by a dazzling array of diamonds.

Featuring the oval silhouette that is characteristic of the collection, the Cat’s Eye Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie is set entirely with baguette-cut diamonds. Given the exceptionally strict criteria used to select each of the 287 diamonds and the extreme precision required for the cutting, adjustment and setting of every stone, this stunning array of almost 20 carats demands over 700 hours of patient work.

The dedication of the Manufacture’s craftsmen is expressed in the myriad scintillations of every detail of the case, right down to the crown, which is set with twelve baguette-cut diamonds and adorned with an exceptional rose-cut diamond. This style of cut – of Baroque origin and used on rare stones – was a symbol of nobility and owes its name to the rose effect produced by the 24 facets of the diamond.

Amb_CAT’S_EYE_TOURBILLON_HAUTE_JOAILLERIETechnical data

Case in white gold set with 155 baguette-cut diamonds (12.97 ct)

Dial: set with 106 baguette-cut diamonds (4.20 ct)
Crown: set with 12 baguette-cut diamonds and 1 rose-cut diamond (0.58 ct)
Dimensions : 32.90 mm x 38.40 mm
Crystal: non-reflective sapphire
Case-back: secured with four screws
Water resistance: 3 ATM

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Girard-Perregaux GP09700-0006 movement
Mechanical with manual winding

Calibre: 12’’’
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Jewels: 20
Power reserve: minimum 72 hours

Grey satin strap

Pin buckle: white gold, set with 13 baguette-cut diamonds (0.56 ct)
or
Folding clasp: white gold, set with 14 baguette-cut diamonds (0.62 ct)

This eyecatching luxurious watch has its price and costs CHF 490.000. Something to dream of … but aren’t diamonds a girl’s best friend?!

LoL, Sandra

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Photos: Courtesy of Girard-Perregeaux