Hedi Slimane’s First Celine Collection

Yesterday, fashion’s second most anticipated show took place, Hedi Slimane’s debut for Céline. Ups, first mistake. He took the «accent aigu» (acute accent) away and Céline is now Celine. The looks, personally speaking, were very much Saint Laurent at his time, as if he just continued where he left off. For me absolutely boring.

The Celine S/S 2019 show invite

I loved when he started at Saint Laurent and went crazy for his looks. But after some seasons, I had enough in my closet of his rock’n roll chic. Of course, the collection for Celine is good, very ’80s and sexy. It is also ok to stay to true to yourself. But as a designer, I find it important to go with time and to value a brand’s heritage. Hedi just repeated what he did for Dior and Saint Laurent. Instead of taking the Yves away, he went for the accent aigu. Instead of applying his aesthetics to the French Maison in a new creative way, he just did copy and paste. Boring.

Copy and paste

To be honest, for LVMH it would have been the smartest move to give Hedi Slimane his own label.

ABOUT CÉLINE

Céline was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard, as one of the first luxury brands in the industry to make a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. The couple opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris. The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.

Céline Vipiana

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach. Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes. The trench became the iconic product of the house. In 1973, Céline, who remained at the helmet until 1997, redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians. At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.


In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital. However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million). LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.
American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997. During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit. In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand. In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo’s Céline changed your wardrobe (even if you didn’t realise it)…  she managed to predict what you want six months before you know you do.

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women’s Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline. Her tenure began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for S/S 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision. Philo brought a new touch to the brand creating functional clothes with a focus on materials and tailoring. In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”. Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé. In 2010, she received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

We all wanted it! Céline’s Boston bag – first seen on the S/S 2010 runway.

In December 2017, following increasing rumors in the press, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the F/W 2018 collection, which is to presented in March of that same year. Thanking her team, Phoebe Philo stated “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations…it’s been amazing.”

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand’s offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Great news for me, I can dress next summer in my former Saint Laurent pieces and will look like wearing new Celine. Money saved for other things…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Céline, © Sandra Bauknecht

My Look: Triple S

Call me a fashion victim but I really do like my BALENCIAGA TRIPLE S SNEAKERSicon. They have grown on me. The chunky dad sneaker trend has been all the rave and it didn’t take long until it went to high fashion. Balenciaga was fast and responded to this craze by releasing the chunkiest and most dad-like sneaker ever. It is comfortable, has been copied and runs out as quickly as it gets restocked… TO SHOP A LARGE VARIETY OF THE TRIPLE S SNEAKER, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

My look: No Smoking print T-shirt by Saint Laurent, printed low-rise skinny jeans by Givenchyiconquilted leather crossbody bag and Triple S sneakers, both by Balenciaga, and Audrey wayfarer sunglasses by Céline.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Here Comes Your New It-Bag

How do fashion dreams come true in our days? Forget ad campaigns, press releases, fashion magazines, samples and announcements. You just take an It-bag and let it “unexpectedly” dangle from the arm of a celebrity. That is modern advertising and just happened when Lady Gaga sported Hedi Slimane’s first piece for Céline.

A preview for all fashionistas that will surely hit the runway as part of the designer’s inaugural collection for the brand during Paris Fashion Week next month. Slimane was announced as the new artistic, creative, and image director of the French fashion house back in February, succeeding Phoebe Philo.

While visiting Paris, the singer wore the structured bag that is personalized with Lady Gaga’s initials and features gold clasp.

Probably your next Birkin or Kelly bag will be the «Gaga» instead… I am already loving it and you?

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Instagram/@sarahtannomakeup (Lady Gaga’s makeup artist Sarah Tanno)
Instagram/ @ladygaga

Bottega Veneta Has a New Designer

This week, Kering announced that Tomas Maier, who has been creative director of Bottega Veneta since 2001, is leaving the Italian brand.

Tomas Maier with Lauren Hutton

The reason? Kering has been dissatisfied for quite some time as Bottega Veneta’s sales have struggled and younger consumers are not interested enough in the brand that focuses extremely on craftsmanship. Compared to another label of the luxury conglomerate, Gucci, Bottega Veneta has been all about understated luxury and still lives up to its motto from the 1970s: «When Your Own Initials Are Enough.»

On the S/S 2017 runway: Gigi Hadid arm in arm with Lauren Hutton

Lately, Tomas Maier made headlines with the model casting for his S/S 2017 runway show. He sent out 73-year-old Lauren Hutton together with 21-year-old Gigi Hadid, confirming that beauty has no age. The same year, the brand reissued the iconic intrecciato clutch worn by Hutton in the 1980 film American Gigolo.

Lauren Hutton carries a Bottega Veneta clutch in American Gigolo.

Reissued: Lauren 1980 intrecciato leather clutch by Bottega Veneta
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In a statement, Francois-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Kering, thanked Tomas for his work in the past 17 years: «It is largely due to Tomas’ high-level creative demands that Bottega Veneta became the house it is today. He put it back on the luxury scene and made it an undisputed reference. With his creative vision, he magnificently showcased the expertise of the house’s artisansI am deeply grateful to him and I personally thank him for the work he accomplished, and for the exceptional success he helped to achieve.»

The new creative director has already been named. It is former Céline director of ready-to-wear, Daniel Lee. Until now, Lee has maintained a low profile at a number of historic design houses. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2011, worked at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, before heading to Céline under Phoebe Philo.

I think that is an interesting choice. Kering has a track record of hiring lesser-known designers to top houses, which worked amazingly in the case of Alessandro Michele and Gucci.

TO SHOP BOTTEGA VENETA ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta, via Grazia Magazine

My Look: Greetings from the Champagne

Greetings from beautiful and sunny Champagne where I spent some amazing days as guest of Moët & Chandon. I cannot wait to share with you this outstanding experience about champagne making. Here you see me in the Moët & Chardon L’Orangerie gardens in Epernay.

My look: Appliquéd cable-knit wool cardiganicon, tropical print silk cape shirticon, tropical print pajama pants, and Ace embroidered low-top sneakersicon, all by Gucci«Paris Cosmopolite» Pré-fall 2017 Métiers d’Art Gabrielle bag by Chanel and Audrey wayfarer sunglasses by Céline.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Breaking News: Hedi Slimane to Join Céline

This breaking news for all fashion lovers. One of the industry’s leading image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane, was announced by LVMH today as Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline with effect from February this year. He will direct all Céline collections, extending to men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Hedi Slimane rose to fame during his tenure as the Creative Director for Dior Homme (also under the helmet of LVMH) in the mid-2000’s. You could say that he invented the skinny suit. A decade later and maybe most notoriously, he went to Yves Saint Laurent and rebranded the label simply Saint Laurent. Its entire visual identity was reengineered by moving the design studio to Los Angeles and showing revamped rocker looks each season. Hedi Slimane’s talent and his remarkable ability to anticipate and express in a unique way the evolutions and desires of his age, will ensure a further era of exceptional growth and development for the House of Céline.

Bernard Arnault commented: I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH Group and taking the reins of our Céline Maison. He is one of the most talented designers of our time.  I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme, which he launched to global critical acclaim in the 2000s. His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this Maison. Hedi will oversee and develop all creativity for both women’s and men’s fashion, but also for leather goods, accessories and fragrances. He will leverage his global vision and unique aesthetic virtuosity in further building an iconic French Maison”.

Hedi Slimane said: “I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline. I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers”.

LoL, Sandra

Photo of Hedi Slimane | Y.R.

Most Important S/S 2018 Accessories Trends

After this weekend’s summary about the 15 most important runway trends for S/S 2018, I thought you might enjoy a look also at the must-have accessories for next summer. The forecast: Get ready for your another sumptuous season! Many things are here to stay or will even take it up a notch. Sneakers are trendier than ever and have taken center stage. The ugly shoe phenomenom explores new heights as seen at Balenciaga‘s collaboration with Crocs. And we can deny it no longer: the fanny pack is here to stay. Earrings and straw hats are bigger than ever and bags are most beautiful in an array of patterns.

LoL, Sandra

S/S 2018 TREND 1: FANNY BAG
Givenchy – Balenciaga – Marc Jacobs

S/S 2018 TREND 2: STATEMENT STRAW HAT
Missoni – Giorgio Armani – Jacquemus

S/S 2018 TREND 3: CLEAR VISION
Tibi – Chanel – Valentino

S/S 2018 TREND 4: SURREALISTIC SUNGLASSES
Dolce & Gabbana – Prada – Gucci

S/S 2018 TREND 5: SNEAKERS RELOADED
Loewe – Louis Vuitton – Céline

S/S 2018 TREND 6: THE UGLY SHOE
Balenciaga – Christopher Kane – Miu Miu

S/S 2018 TREND 7: GLOVES
Olivier Theyskens – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC – Erdem

S/S 2018 TREND 8: BIG EARRINGS
Saint Laurent – Stella McCartney – Isabel Marant

S/S 2018 TREND 9: PATTERNED BAGS
Dior – Chloé – Prada

S/S 2018 TREND 10: SUMMER OVERKNEE BOOTS
Fendi – Balenciaga – Versace

Photos: Via Vogue.com

The Top 15 Runway Trends for S/S 2018

S/S 2018 in three words? Feel good fashion. The trends for the next season are a fab mix of florals, pastels, and all ways of dressing up. This winter’s love for red will be replaced by head to toe soft lavender and fringe made its way in all forms this season, so there’s a look for every level of commitment. Most importantly go clear this season with all your favorite designers as plastic gets fantastic and underwear is meant to be seen.

Below is a summary of the most important trends for S/S 2018. Enjoy! The pieces will hit the shelves starting beginning of next year…

LoL, Sandra

S/S 2018 TREND 1: SILK ROAD
Céline – Hermès – Versace

S/S 2018 TREND 2: ART LOVERS
Akris – Prada – Missoni

S/S 2018 TREND 3: IN FULL BLOOM
Rochas – Erdem – Marni

S/S 2018 TREND 4: FRINGES
Balmain – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC– Dior

S/S 2018 TREND 5: MARABOU
Proenza Schouler – Saint Laurent – Nina Ricci

S/S 2018 TREND 6: LAVENDER
The Row – Michael Kors – Tom Ford

S/S 2018 TREND 7: LIFE IN PLASTIC
Chanel – Burberry – Valentino

S/S 2018 TREND 8: WORKOUT
Gucci – Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs

S/S 2018 TREND 9: PLAID PLEASE
Fendi – Prabal Gurung – Balenciaga

S/S 2018 TREND 10: 80’s DENIM
Max Mara – Stella McCartney – Oscar de la Renta

S/S 2018 TREND 11: THE TRENCH
Gabriela Hearst – Maison Margiela – Victoria Beckham

S/S 2018 TREND 12: SHOW YOUR UNDIES
Christopher Kane – Miu Miu – Alessandra Rich

S/S 2018 TREND 13: RAINBOW
Peter Pilotto – Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini – Vionnet

S/S 2018 TREND 14: WHITE AT NIGHT
Jil Sander – Alexander McQueen – Etro

S/S 2018 TREND 15: MISE-EN-SCÈNE
Moschino – Dolce & Gabbana – Comme des Garçons

Photos: via Vogue.com

Christopher Bailey To Exit Burberry

Yesterday, I got the news that after 17 years at Burberry, Christopher Bailey is set to leave the iconic British fashion house in the end of March 2018 making way for a new vision in the brand’s creative strategy.

A digitalized shopping experience at Burberry’s Regent Street store in London.

46- year-old Bailey joined Burberry in 2001 and became CEO and chief creative officer in May 2014. He led the company through successful years, especially when the brand focused a lot on social media. Like other fashion houses, Burberry has endured a difficult period in recent years and in July 2017, Bailey was succeeded as CEO by Marco Gobbetti in July this year who brings a new vision to the brand.

Marco Gobbetti

«Burberry has undergone an incredible transformation since 2001 and Christopher has been instrumental to the company’s success in that period,» said Gobbetti in the official statement. «We have a clear vision for the next chapter to accelerate the growth and success of the Burberry brand and I am excited about the opportunity ahead for our teams, our partners and our shareholders

Christopher Bailey

«It has been the great privilege of my working life to be at Burberry, working alongside and learning from such an extraordinary group of people over the last 17 years,» said Bailey. «I am excited to pursue new creative projects but remain fully committed to the future success of this magnificent brand and to ensuring a smooth transition

An iconic piece and a must-have for every closet:
The Kensington Long cotton-gabardine trench coat

Rumors are that Phoebe Philowho worked alongside Gobbetti so successfully at Céline (Gobbetti was CEO at the French luxury brand before), could be a potential candidate to succeed Bailey. Burberry shares fell 1.46 percent on the news of the designer’s departure in London trading.

Burberry F/W 2017 show

TO SHOP BURBERRY ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Burberry

My Look: Pucci at the Pool

Still looking for some glamorous daytime beachwearEmilio Pucci’s instantly recognisable kaleidoscopic designs have always been favoured by those in the know, and that’s unlikely to change anytime soon, making any Pucci printed piece an intelligent buy – whether it’s one of the brand’s iconic bikinis or a chic cover-up. For me, it truly is the ultimate luxe swimwear brand.

My look: Fiore Maya asymmetric printed silk-chiffon dressicon, Fiore Maya printed triangle bikini and Fiore Maya printed cotton-gauze pareoicon, all by Emilio Pucci, Candy metallic elaphe platform sandalsicon by Saint Laurent, embroidered brocade drawstring backpack by Gucci, woven straw visor by Stella McCartneyAudrey wayfarer sunglasses by Céline and pearl necklace by Chanel.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht
A huge thank you to my daughter for taking the pictures!