Sandra‘s Closet

Without doubt, one of my absolute favourite collections for F/W 2013 is DIOR. Raf Simons takes the French Maison to new heights with this literally speaking very artistic collection. It is the story of affinities between the founder, Monsieur Christian Dior, and the designer himself.

I have fallen in love with the new looks already on the runway and during my re-see in the showroom during Paris Fashion Week, I have been completely taken by all the beautiful details that I will share with you today.

This season, Raf Simons focuses on this notion of memory and how it shapes the nature of design at the house; how this works for himself and how it once worked for Christian Dior.

“This collection is more connected to passions we share,” says Raf Simons. “Like a real interest in art – Christian Dior started his career as a gallerist and represented both Dali and Giacometti early on. The connection to certain periods of time is also significant, his obsession with the Belle Époque in his case, the Mid-Century modern in mine. Here the connections made are important, the very idea of them rather than what they are made to; the attraction and obsession is the significant part.”

The collection functions in the form of a visual scrapbook, a collage of clothing containing significant moments in time both for Raf Simons and the house of Christian Dior. A Dior coat can function easily alongside a further exploration of the Bar jacket in wool denim, itself teamed with a new take on Oxford bags.

Dior’s iconic houndstooth motif is explored and transposed, emerging frequently as a wool bustier. A notion of asymmetry, begun in the haute couture collection, can be seen throughout, resulting in a abundance of permutations in the silhouettes that can go from short to long in one look. The collection is full of unexpected juxtapositions and visual non sequitur; a free association, like a personal scrapbook, both playful and profound, it embraces idiosyncrasy, culminating in what Simons refers to as “memory dresses.”

Here, a typical twenties shift shape (Think of the The Great Gatsby’s influence!) is embroidered and appliqued with motifs that point to parts of the personal history of Dior; a Surrealist style free association culminates in these clothes and is up for open interpretation. They also display the new graphic sensibility that is introduced in this collection and permeates throughout. This is most significantly displayed in the unique collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts in the collection.

The early hand drawn work from the 1950s of the artist Andy Warhol is found as a recurring motif of the mid-century style printed or embroidered on the clothing and accessories.

“For me Warhol made so much sense,” says Simons of this collaboration. “I was interested in the delicacy and sensitivity in the early work he did, I was drawn to that graphic style naturally in this collection. It was that notion of hand work and personal signature that fitted throughout.”

These notions of Surrealism and Pop are brought together in the dreamscape of the show set. As a Magritte-style cloud path meanders around the gigantic mirrored spheres of the space, the mix of memory and desire in the collection is brought to dream-like culmination.

Below, you can enjoy some of the accessories that are to die for. The embroidered boots are definitely on my must-have shopping list.

Dior’s amazing F/W 2013 collection will hit the stores aproximately end of August, beginning of September 2013. If I have whetted your appetite for some serious shopping, you should have a look at the house’s extremely beautiful Pre-fall 2013 collection which has started to arrive.

A collection which shows the new juxtapositions in perfection: a billowing very couture-like skirt that is tied at the waist and reaching to the floor in back is paired with a cashmere-silk knit tee (see collage below to the right) or a sort of wool fabric belt that elevates the look to a new level of style. I imagine Raf’s casual glamour will become his signature. One thing is for sure, we will see more and more Dior on the streets and the house jacket will be identifiable everywhere. Personally speaking, I am madly in love! My collection for the upcoming season!

LoL, Sandra

Runway photos: Courtesy of Dior, Showroom pictures: © Sandra Bauknecht

CHANEL is a trendsetter, especially in terms of makeup. Whenever a new runway show takes place, we are eagerly waiting for the backstage pictures to arrive to see the look up close, Peter Philips, Creative Director for Chanel Makeup, has created.
Something we will wear 6 months later…

The focus for Cruise 2014, that was presented yesterday in Singapore, is on a graphic eye in turquoise and black, created with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in True Blue and Noir Intense.

Complexions were kept matte, dusted liberally with the Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Loose Finish Powder.

And the very important question: How will our nails look next spring? Rather than wearing a newly-created colour, models sported Le Vernis Nail Colour in Black Satin from the permanent collection. So ladies, you can get ahead of the game right now… and don’t forget to add punk-style bangs. Stay tuned for an upcoming post on this hair style.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

Yesterday, CHANEL showed its Cruise 2014 collection for the very first time in Asia. Since 2000, CHANEL has taken the fashion world on voyages around the globe: Paris, New York, Venice, Saint-Tropez, Versailles among others and now Singapore.

Basked in the sun all year long – a never-ending summer, it is the ultimate tropical escape from the winters of the northern or southern hemispheres. The Loewen Cluster on Dempsey Hill, a preserved heritage site that was once a thriving nutmeg plantation, was this year’s perfect backdrop and served as the location for the show.

The night before, a private screening of Karl Lagerfeld’s new film Once Upon a Time… was held at the Raffles hotel.

The short film, written and directed by the designer himself, celebrates the 100-year anniversary of Gabrielle Chanel’s Deauville boutique. Cast in the movie is Keira Knightley playing in the lead role alongside appearances from models Baptiste Giabiconi, Stella Tennant and Lindsey Wixon.

If you have 20 minutes left, take your time to watch the movie here:

On the runway, Karl Lagerfeld presented 80 different looks for Cruise 2014 (below are my favorites). Shades of black, navy, beige and cream dominated the collection. The nod to the past in the shape of Coco Chanel’s iconic silhouettes such as wide-leg trousers, box jackets and pleated blouses will surely please the house’s customers.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Chanel

I have to admit that when I saw the new Saint Laurent campaign yesterday, I didn’t dare to post it because of April Fools’ Day. But this is no joke! Marilyn Manson, the ’90s rocker, is the new face. Of course, this has nothing to do with the image we have had of the brand so far. Looking closer, Hedi Slimane’s pick may not be as surprising as it seems.

For F/W 2013, the designer’s went for grunge-heavy designs, mixing plaid shirts with babydoll dresses. First, I didn’t like it at all but slowly I am getting used to this high street look in good quality. Recently, I had a conversation with another fashion editor who said “probably he is already one step further ahead of us…” and that made me think. She might be right…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via style.com

During Paris Fashion Week, the lovely Mary Katrantzou welcomed me at her showroom to explore her newest F/W 2013 up close.

For fall 2013, Mary Katrantzou surprised. Her designs have developed, trading her focus on bold prints and vibrant colors for strong silhouettes and new shapes, without loosing her identity. Monochromatic hues, embroideries that look like print giving this outstanding collection an effect that has been even more striking on me. Referencing Edward Steichen’s iconic imagery, the turn of the century’s photography, Mary created dream-like pieces.

My favourites? The eerie landscapes and ghost-like dresses, as innovative as the legendary photographs they are reminiscent of.

Mary Katrantzou with me

I was so proud when I found myself in a folder at the entrance of the showroom with “celebrities” wearing Mary Katrantzou. Thank you!

To the left: MISTY MARIA dress, to the right: REFLECTO coat

New clutches for F/W 2013

Me in SANFRAN dress and FREELAGO clutch

Me in DIJON PINK blouse dress with matching leggings

Wearing VERSICOLOR coat

I love the FAUWI dress

Sporting two-layered ORLYON dress

Mary’s jacquards are among her bestsellers. Here you see me in the new KARDIA dress.

Amazing REFLECTOR dress.

Like a ghost: Me in TIA MARIA dress.

If you like the designs as much as I do, then I have a great surprise for you:
YOU CAN PRE-ORDER THE BEAUTIFUL MARY KATRANTZOU F/W 2013 COLLECTION NOW!
TRUNKSHOW ENDS ON MARCH 16 AT 11 PM EDT.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

I have been meaning to show this post to you since quite a while but time just flies. Nevertheless, everything you see here, is in stores now which is a very good thing. I am sure there are some looks that have been shown on the runway of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Days Zurich International Closing Night last November that you will surely adore. So let’s get started.

Arzu Kaprol is known for her architectural femininity. A Paris Fashion week must, the designer of Turkish origin was inspired by “bones” for her S/S 2013 collection that she has kept in a muted color palette. Very pretty!

Dimitrios Panagiotopoulos is the designer behind the one of my favorite labels presented at the FDZ: Dimitri. A graduate from renowned fashion school ESMOD like me, he had worked for Jil Sander, Vivienne Westwood and Hugo Boss before launching his own label in 2007. His S/S 2013 designs are vivid and colorful, feminine and seductive.

Berlin-based designer Dawid Tomaszewski founded his eponymous label in 2009. His designs are inspired mostly by art and architecture. For S/S 2013, he came up with an extremely eye-catching collection in luxurious fabrics, of which every piece has the potential to become a favorite.

The culmination of the International Closing Night was the S/S 2013 show of New York-based designer Charlotte Ronson, who is part of the famous Ronson family. Her twin sister Samantha is a famous DJ and her brother Mark, a music producer and the face of Fan di Fendi pour Homme.

Charlotte Ronson backstage with me

Backstage she told me that water had been her main source of inspiration for this lovely slightly romantic collection. She combined ocean’s blues and greens with light yellows reminiscent of the sun. Her all time favourite, floral prints were of course also part of Charlotte’s designs. Personally speaking, what I liked most, was the mix of feminine details with a sporty approach, which took her looks from sweet to cool. Well done!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Miuccia Prada used Japanese elements, draped Duchesse satin and came up with a contemporary kimono style, while paying homage to Courrèges with ‘60 silhouettes and red daisies. All mixed together, the Prada S/S 2013 collection has a very nostalgic feel while of course looking absolutely new and modern. That is something only Mrs Prada can come up with.

Photos taken in my favourite coat in my favourite Prada store in the world, ZURICH!

My beloved Prada accessories for S/S 2013.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Prada, © Sandra Bauknecht

Here is your exclusive preview of Longchamp’s new S/S 2013 video that will debut tomorrow on February 12, 2103. This awesome campaign will put you in a good mood. Turn up the volume and you should be dancing…

I have to admit that I am sometimes feeling like Coco Rocha at the security check. I feel the urge to get those grumpy people to smile.

The old TWA terminal’s minimalistic design at JFK in New York reflects the architectural theme of the new S/S 2013 collection. Highlighting the season’s star bags: Longchamp 3D, LM Cuir and Gatsby Sport, Coco Rocha is set in scene as the glamorous, cosmopolitan traveler running to catch her plane, grabbing her bags from the luggage carousel, and passing through security.

The S/S 2013 collection is also dominated by the Finca Luisa statement print in saturated shades, structured shapes and an architectural vision. Exclusively created for Longchamp, this graphic motif was inspired by the houses characteristic of South American estates (finca in Spanish) and is a playful tribute to the Mexican architect Luis Barragàn, celebrated for his use of bold block color.

LoL, Sandra

Longchamp 3D Bag

Longchamp Gatsby Sport Bag

Stills, ad and runway photos: Courtesy of Longchamp, Photos showroom: © Sandra Bauknecht

According to Tim Blanks, the ninth-floor penthouse, where Roberto Cavalli presented his F/W 2013 men’s collection Sunday night in Milan, once belonged to the Gucci who was gunned down by his wife. Overlooking the rooftops of Milan, the spectacular views were the perfect backdrop for the outstanding presentation. Daniele Cavalli, who has been at the helmet of the menswear arm since two years, had a vision and transformed the amazing flat into a gentlemen’s club in impressive colours of purple and burgundy.

Instead of a fashion show, the collection was presented on mannequins, next to the photos and videos created by well-known photographer Rankin. I totally liked that approach as you could truly look at all the details of the looks and believe me, there were many.

Precious fabrics, from crocodile-printed pony skin to all-over sequined embroideries, of course the uniqueness of a print, and Daniele’s strongest talent, the combination of all those eye-catching details (see all the photos below please).

Daniele told me a little about his inspiration, that he used a teleidoscope, a kind of kaleidoscope, to create his very special prints, in form of kaleidoscopic patterns.

So then, no fashion shows this season. The reason?
The runway and the long walk before the public and photographers enhances and highlights the spectacular nature of feminine seduction. The same does not apply to the male essence. On the contrary, this might be the motive behind the skepticism of many men towards fashion. This collection aims at celebrating male reality.

Many famous journalists attended the event, among them Suzy Menkes…

… and Tim Blanks, who were both listening to Daniele’s vision.

Eva Cavalli chatting with Tim Blanks

Guests of the event were spoilt to all sorts of Cavalli Vodka drinks and enjoyed a musical performance of The Cyborgs. A fashion show that was more a fashion party in the world’s most stylish gentlemen’s club ever. Thumbs up!

Have fun looking at all the photos from the amazing night!

LoL, Sandra

Photographer Rankin with Alex Postiglione

Me at work in the kaleidoscopic room where the accessories were presented.

Olivier Zahm (Purple magazine) with me
Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Here is Bottega Veneta’s S/S 2013 ad campaign shot by Peter Lindbergh on location at Universal Studios in Los Angeles in October 2012. The internationally renowned German photographer and filmmaker has been a hugely influential figure in fashion photography since he first began working for Italian Vogue in the late 1970’s. Known for his narrative sensibility, he has a direct, minimalist approach that captures the individuality of the subject. His images, often in black-and-white, are instantly recognizable for their spontaneity and intimacy.

Bottega Veneta’s S/S 2013 collection centers on a subtle and complex individuality. A palette of dusty, saturated shades of peach, yellow, blue, red, gray, and plaster is anchored in black and brown. Those butterfly embellished accessories are absolutely on my wish list for summer.

The mood is both tough and sweet, starting with unexpected mixes of materials and prints, mostly florals, and surface embellishments of exceptional quality and varied provenance.
What a beautiful collection inspired by the `40s, Tomas Maier is back in the fore!

TO SHOP BOTTEGA VENETA, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta